Taking the 3d printed gas engine project a step in the right direction with metal 3d printing. Instagram: / bowen3dprinting Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=84920684 Big thanks to PCBway for sponsoring this video: www.pcbway.com/
I really love the fact that this project uses some of the most high-tech production methods and some of the most low-tech engineering (like some chicken wire etc.) to produce something that is already existing for over a hundred years. Not bashing on it though because I genuinely love it and have great respect for your commitment to it
It's actually good that you didn't resize the whole with a dremel. The chances of it remaining round are very low and those threads you made are possibly the best you could have made because of the amount of material remaining. Do a quick test of a tight hole and a more sloppy hole and then add threads. The sloppy one will feel sleepy with a bolt in it and the tight one will feel tighter. Now measure the amount of strength you need to strip the threads and I bet you 1 kiss that the sloppy hole will strip out much quicker and than the tight one. Yes I did write Whole instead of hole, no I won't fix it and yes I will blame autocorrect.
The reamer tool is the best choice! Someone already mentioned it. It's specifically designed for slightly widening holes to specific sizes. While they should be done on a mill for the best results, I've used them on drills just fine. They have a long stalk, which means that they naturally flex slightly to center themselves in the pre-existing hole.
Given the available tools, using the tap gently as a drill probably gave the best results possible. It would have been very easy to knacker the whole with a dremmel.
For making prints watertight, I print with ABS and then vapor smooth them by heating a tub of acetone in an enclosure with the prints. Makes a really smooth surface and doesn't cost much at all.
I got even PLA prints completely watertight by increasing print temperature and reducing print speed and part cooling. With a bit of experimenting it held 2 bar of pressure no problem.
This is exactly why I am glad I was a child in the 80's. We tried making these things without 3D printing as there was none. Now, I don't really mean we would try and make our own engines, but we certainly made cannons that used gun powder, crossbows that could almost kill, and used gasoline for just about every thing we shouldn't. Watching this series has made me smile as I know that most of the time you are praying you don't get a face full of metal and plastic, lol. Awesome!
I've always been interested with the properties of metal 3d printed parts so this is an awesome vid for me, awesome work dude. Btw, for making solid (water-tight) 3d printed plastic pieces, there is a method but it's a bit time consuming. It's called salt remelting, it requires that you print the part at 100% infill, then submerge it fully in salt, ideally as fine as you can make it, then you put the whole thing into the oven at just beyond the plastic's plasticity point (depends on your specific plastic, I think PLA works at about 200C) for a while, then letting it cool. The idea being that the salt prevents the part from warping or moving, and the slight remelt allows the plastic to bond together better between the layers, creating better water/air sealing, it also improves the shear strength perpendicular to the layer lines.
I wonder if an acetone vapor bath would have similar effects. That tends to melt the outer layers to give a smoothing effect, but it should be able to make things more water tight if left for a little longer.
Designing and building an engine with such mix/match homemade and even with pro help with materials from PCB way is a very impressive feat. Can't wait till I see what you do next. Great job.
@@scottanderson6309 Who is shilling? I only mentioned PCB way because those are the parts he was unable to make himself, even though he designed the parts they made.
He's probably going to need a proper fueling system and some compression rings, it seems to run very lean and probably gets a lot of blowby through the rubber ring.
Really pleased that you managed to get it to run this well! Loved following this series of videos and your other projects. Looking forward to what comes next!
What a good video to start off the new year! That tapping sequence was sooooo hectic! I liked those tapping and welding shots you did throughout the building sequence 'Let me show you on my computer' was such a good gag too! I love the little dipstick you added to the oil fill port's screw, and the screw itself is a good addition I think ;D
I was hoping you were going to revisit this but casting the parts using the plastic parts to create the molds. I want to build a 1/4 scale V8 this way. There is an LS V8 that is already done for 3D printing
I am so glad to see you have taken what you've learned from the past and turned it into such a success, its really cool to see the engine you built run for so long
Happy new year 🎉 I love seeing this 3D printed engine since I've always wanted to design and actually build my own. This video series will have to do for now, but whenever I can get my hands on the tools I will try to design a legitimate metal engine, or maybe even try a metal infused 3d printed engine.
with how well the engine is running I suggest somehow making some kind of crankcase vent so it can breathe rather that will be in the oil cap or somewhere else also maybe valvetrain lubrication would be cool to keep it up!
It's amazing what you could do with 3d printing. Also I love that your videos are more down to earth and isn't everything perfect or your have everything perfectly calculated beforehand
When you're hand-lapping valves, i highly recommend using a bright light to see whether you've achieved full seal. I work in an old-school machine shop, and i've been taught to check valves with a light first, before we even pulled a vacuum through
I think I’ve said it before, but I think this video demonstrates the need again, I’d love to see you build a lathe using printing for as much as possible.
Maybe lathe for wood and other soft material. For metals, I'd say it's a no no. If you're familiar with Uri Tuchman, he once tried making a mini lathe for brass, IIRC, and it didn't go very well unfortunately... :(
@@rizalardiansyah4486 Yeah, Uri's the man. I hated to see how his ultimately failed. I don't think a 100% printed lathe would work/be useful, but I think a lathe using a lot of printed parts, like pulleys and such, is perfectly doable. I think for aluminum and softer, a CNC lathe would be pretty easy to cook up from off the shelf (Amazon) components.
I love this video! It's a combination of hilarious and totally intriguing. I love your curiosity and getting your own firsthand knowledge by testing all of these elements. This was really fun
The way you get things to works with a series of hacks, combined with your complete disregard for safety is very relatable to me as a brazilian, great job getting the engine to work 👍.
I think the issue you had with the first pump was actually something to do with priming rather than flow rate but the second pump was definitely the right choice.
The engine is probably dying because when combustion happens, it's warming the plastic of the cylinder walls faster than the metal piston. They expand at different rates and you lose compression. On a conventional engine you can tell when this happens because the engine begins to race (choke has caused a rich condition, warming cylinder walls increases fuel vaporization). It's also why you can't properly measure compression on a cold engine. You can probably start it without the propane if you just use a choke, as well. Awesome project and I'm loving watching along, good luck on whatever you do next!
Finally! I was waiting for the 3d printed metal engine! Ive been watching this project since the original, and im not disappointed. Cant wait for the other ones 👀
Yeah, it honestly literally sounds like its getting too little fuel. I have a briggs and stratron engine that I have worked on, and it keeps on stallling out like your engine does. And it turned out to just be a throttle problem by not letting in enough fuel. Ps, awsome video!!!!😃 Also, I know this might not be a very good idea but what if you add a fuel pump on the fuel line to help with it's low amount of fuel withdraw...
i cant believe every thing you done is all what not to do, but it was fun watching you try, and it almost worked, Those metal parts came out nice looking forward to an update video of this project working
Dude, you don't know how excited I am to see this thing run. Been checking the channel every other day for the video. Also, the rubber compression ring will probably never fail you. Seen a video by garage54 where they used a rubber compression ring on a real lada engine and it was impossible to melt.
One thing I think I should’ve suggested a little while ago, would’ve been going with a flathead engine. If you went with a flathead engine, you could’ve just used a chunk of steel pipe for the cylinder sleeve and then welded a piece of flat bar with a whole drilled out for the cylinder sleeve, and two for the valves on top of it. Then 3-D printed head would work for probably a minute or two. Also, that would give you the ability to put an acrylic head on there and see it working with a clear head. I think that’s what I’m going to do with my engine, but as of right now I’m in Florida, so I can’t. Really love your channel and your videos! Keep up the great work!
There is so much you can do to make this even more amazing. Adding in a some timing featurs. Maybe an actual cooling system. Throttle cable. Fuel pump. This could become a full running working engine that you made at home and that would be an incredible feat of engineering. You got a follow from me for this one. Awesome work man. Can't wait to see what other cool things you do
This is one of my favourite 3D printing projects. It's really interesting seeing which components can survive being plastic and which ones need to be upgraded to metal.
Dude you are so close to making that thing actually idle, ive been watching this since day one and im 100% confident youll get her running good one day. Keep at it youre doing an awesome job!
u have inspired me. I am currently designing a compressed engine with self actuating VVT. basically copying you but I need to start somewhere. awesome vid dude.
Alot of weed eater engines use the same method of making a crankshaft as you did! They compensate for the wait by welding three plates on each of the crank journal to add extra weight. It's really cool because out of all the weed eater crankshafts I've seen now I kind of get how they're made
OMG why haven't I bumped into your channel earlier??? I used to work on 2 strokes engines in the late 80's, back then we were tweaking what we had to work with, and the process was fascinating. What you are making here is the most bananas thing I've seen and I'm loving it! As I watch you try new things I'm "this can't work", but when you figure it out it's like "I knew he could come up with a solution" :D Thank you for sharing this 🙏🏼
holy shit, dude... i was already laughing pretty good when you 'sent off the package', but i wheezed and crylaughed so hard when you showed us what you were talking about with the piston on your computer. so amazing. thank you lol
See, your mane is getting longer and it's looking better. Keep it growing, it will be worth it in the end trust me mine has been long for 15yrs and I won't go back. It's nice to see people still experimenting and building things rather than sitting on Instagram.
watertight cooling jacket ideas: - seal it by dunking it in paint or something - print with 4 walls and very high temperature and >105% flow, and fairly large layer height to minimize the potential failure points, and print slow. And make the geometry simple. No overhangs, no fancy features, just a cylinder.
