Right??? Ive been wrenchin on old classics my whole life- but body work has always been my weakness. Thanks to channels like this and Fitzees Fabrications, Im learning a lot (at 51!!), and Im gaining confidence about taking on my first major metalwork project because of them!!!
Very well Done, well done Travis, 53 years in the car repair, restoration business, you my friend are a professional journeyman. This country is loosing professional’s like you daily. Your pride shows, in your attitude, passion, execution and in the end product!
I just discovered your videos. I am a old guy learning to do some stuff like this on my old Ramcharger. As a retired teacher, I can say your instructional method is spot on. Love the easy tips to make things better. Thank you and keep it up! I enjoy learning from people like you!
Been in the resto, collision game for around 1 1/2 yrs and you have answered all my inquiring questions, that my employers were to stubborn headed to answer Thank you!
The man who took time to teach me was one of the best he learned from his Daddy. I saw him work a quarter panel for like 18 hours But got it right cause you couldn’t buy one when he got through it needed very little filler. It was really bad. But he worked it. That’s hard work shrinking crap from hell
Hi Travis. I am an Aussie guy that has imported a 57 two-door Belair Sports Coupe which is reasonably rusty and a fair project. I have watched a lot of your videos and find them very good and your methods quite logical. I have done a few collision cars but never a full resto. I have a very clear vision of what I want to do and achieve for my own tastes and local engineering requirements. Essentially a Restomod with the following: complete new driveline with 496, auto, pwr steer, 4 link, mini tubs, coil overs all round, new steering arms, x- frame for chassis, drop spindles and discs all round. Car needs new rockers, floor, 10 inch boot section, tailpan, and patch panels for bottoms of fenders and 1/4 panels. I plan to do all work myself and paint clear over base. I have a 2 post hoist and rotisserie. There is lots of info out there. Much of it conflicting and I know there is no exact right way to do everything. What I would love to hear from you however is your recommendations on sequencing for this series of events? My thoughts so far are to disassemble and strip the body and epoxy prime. Then separate the frame and body and do all of the frame modifications and upgrades. Then re-mount the body on a new body mount kit and start on rust repairs then gaps, filler and paint etc Love to hear your thoughts? Note, this may take quite a bit of time, so Car will need to sit in say epoxy primer for quite a period of time etc Paul
Sounds like a good game plan honestly. That’s pretty much spot on how I would attack it. As long as you are thinking ten steps ahead on the details you will be fine. Good luck!!
I used to think you did some things on the little overboard side, but later I found myself occasionally doing what you said just to push myself further. Thanks. Keep up the good work👍
Travis if you use a carpenters pencil shave the side down a couple inches to expose the lead ,works like the yellow one only it is easier to see. Thanks Spankyshotrods
wow you are a true craftsman ... you give me confidence to attempt things normally i would get help in for... great video very well made along with the information it contains
Nice modification to get rid of lead and good idea as well ,great video keep them coming . I have a 65 F100 I bought in 1995 been parked in garage since then now it's time to get to work on it also have classic engine for it thanks for sharing . I will be calling you about the cool Sylvester t shirts since I have a garage cat that looks like him I don't do the odd aps so will have to call ........
Always jump after every tack. I learned that as a beginning welder welding. Field tanks buy tanks holding oil for oil refineries in lake Charles La decades ago to keep it from drawing and or warping
I was not helping my son do his body work, but he was confused on what this was. After a talk, I said that was OEM lead. He sanded it thin because it was soft. Both were painted and cracked in the finish 6 months after done. One was an 84 Monte & 81 El Co. (Note; If welding, cover windows with 3M weld paper or remove, they will put & scar) In home improvement stores, paint / floor sells "Red Rosin" paper on rolls 3' wide X 100' long. It cost $10 - $16 dollars and works for large masking or upholstery patterns. I made a dowel dispenser with metal brackets on wall. I weld new metal over the sail panel / roof panel we're factory soldered three times X 2 on both. Covered with Dynatron Duraglass, sanded and finished with Rage. Never cracked. Just like what Travis is doing. He is correct as this major joint / connection needs repaired because remember, the factory soldered joint is cosmetic and becomes brittle with time just like a 50 year old radiator tank that just lets go one day for no reason. It happens frequently! "All About Circuits" website had an article on aging component failures. Nothing man made last forever, this proves the point Travis is making! Thanks for the reminder and video. Now it is solid & one component. It's called restoration, not temporary patching. Thanks Travis! Right on the money for a happy customer and longer lasting connection than a solder joint that was spot welded 50+ year ago! Thanks Travis!
i replaced the body filler from my 71 duster. and did the same basic thing you did. but when melting lead, you need the proper mask i also using art charcoal to show the body lines. i also make marks where the shrinking will be
Very informative and detailed. Would you go through this effort if it was going to be a vinyl roof? If not what would you use? The evercoat? Did you or would you spray copper primer on the back side of the patch? Learning more and more. Thanks
If your worried about the WD40 spray traveling onto surrounding cars or parts then you can buy it by the gallon. It runs about $40.00 per gallon. The cans we typically use would cost over $180.00 for the same volume amount. You can always put it in a squirt bottle as well.
I put full quarters on my GTO. The car has a factory viynal top that I am going to replace. I was going to Duraglass this roof seam but open to other options. Any advice?
We hold classes we don’t have any scheduled other than a color sanding and polishing class but if you follow us on Instagram we usually post the class dates when they come
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS so I seen where when you removed the piece out the put that copper primer. But are you coating the under side of the piece you made?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS mine was a 64ss. So sweet. Had a cam in it the 283 Two barrel. Headers. Pioneer system. Big timer. Lol. The. Ladies loved my car and had. Air conditioning. But the bucket seats and console. Protected some of them. Lol. I was a Lad man I had the same sweetheart for five years
