Closing out...no guts no glory. I was watching another blog, last 2 guys were out at 5pm & couldn't catch a wave in, too sketchy,so they paddled 1 mile to the harbor & still almost got thrashed.
This wave is far more powerful than pipeline and much less notable. Respect to whom ride it, its not reef under there but sand harder than concrete. Scary wave without a doubt.
Was norm on the old style camera taking his shots to get developed to sell to the surfers at art and Harry’s bar. I watched OJ get chased down the freeway while sitting at art and Harry’s. Bomber bill was there. April 9 1994 one of my best shots was taken by norm…. Dave oogle was shooting video for tourists. Best waves of my life