MF135 6 Speed Restoration #64 Removing a Stuck Diff Lock Shaft

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In restoring the Massey Ferguson 135 I found the diff lock pedal was stuck solid so in this video I work on stripping it and freeing it up.
Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I sell parts and offer technical advise to customers.
Parts seen in our videos can be purchased from www.queenslandtractorspares.co...
We have a lot more than we can offer on our web site available to us and in our store. If you dont see what you would like please email info@queenslandtractorspares.com.au and we will help where we can.
I do try and help with technical advise at bundybearsshed@gmail.com if you have a question or are having trouble with your project.

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Опубликовано:

29 май 2019

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Комментарии : 37

@SuperDexta1963 11 месяцев назад

Probably the best ever tractor mechanic I’ve ever seen 👍🍺

@BundyBearsShed 11 месяцев назад

Thanks for that.

@ianmckay9449 4 года назад

Hi Lance Just paid a deposit on a mf135 multi power with diff lock. Gave it a thorough going over and everything works on it except the diff lock pedal looks as though it is seized. After viewing your video on said subject it looks as though I will be in for fun and games. Just want to thank you in advance for doing this video and giving me a clear picture of how to approach it. I'm not sure if the multi power works or not. I drove it downhill in low range with engine braking, hit the multi power and did not lose engine braking. So, I assume it doesn't work. I will investigate further when I take possession. Cheers Ian McKay from Markwood

@BundyBearsShed 4 года назад

Exciting times coming up for you by the look of it.

@geoffbugden8978 Год назад

Great Stuff

@BundyBearsShed Год назад

Thanks Geoff.

@BleuJurassic 5 лет назад

must be cold boots and jeans grins nice job

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

Cooling off for sure.

@andypdq 4 года назад

I have a '66 135 and the diff lock stopped working, it didn't engage when the pedal was pushed. It turned out that the pin which you had to knock out, which locks the fork actuator to the pedal shaft was so loose it had dropped out of it's own accord.

@BundyBearsShed 4 года назад

ok, interesting,

@firstname5134 5 лет назад

Mine is stuck too.. looks like it ain't gonna gonna break free unless I do what you did

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

Possibly not.

@pm270100 5 лет назад

nice hammer work why is bush so hard must be steel not bronze

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

Bush is steel and has been hardened, something I never knew about.

@Drottninggatan2017 5 лет назад

@@BundyBearsShed Push the bushing out and grind a hole in it.

@davidsample9130 5 лет назад

Is it snowing in Bundaberg today? Australian snowfall even made the local news here in Antigonish Nova Scotia

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

It is cold but not snowing here but it is around 6-7hrs drive from here.

@swanvalleymachineshop 5 лет назад

You didn't pick up a bang good drill bit by accident to drill that did you !

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

Ha ha nope it is just bloody hard, later I tries a new cobalt and still no good, Im not sure why it needs to be so hard.

@workingrelics6121 5 лет назад

Hi Lance, thanks for the video! Do you know if the diff-lock bushing is available for purchase? I was also curious, what is the main brand of bearings Sparex uses for these tractors and what is your opinion of their quality? I have just placed an order with you guys. Cheers, Josh.

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

G Day Josh, Sparex have Koyo at times and have seen Nachi but their crown wheel bearings I dont use as they dont have the same number of rollers as the original so for that I use Bareco. I have had no quality issues ever but I do pick and choose a little.

@workingrelics6121 5 лет назад

@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for the help Lance, much appreciated!

@jimmybaxter6163 5 лет назад

hi Lance i have to fix my 165 lock pedal stuck same mite work as 135 JImmy in Ala.

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

I think they are similar

@pm270100 5 лет назад

carbide drill

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

Yeah still too hard for cobalt but Im not going to worry about it.

@stevehinton5300 5 лет назад

Hi, love the channel.! I just bought my first tractor. 1965 MF135 . Was reading the manual and it says to use 93 octane gas. (I have the Continental Z145 gas) Our regular gas in the states is 87 octane. Do i need to high test? AND. out premium is 91 octane... AND do i need to use the old leaded gas? Won't unleaded hurt the valves in the old '65 engines? And, i was watching another channel where a very wise man said to use diesel engine oil like Shell Rotella or equivalent. As it has zinc and other needed items that newer oils have left out now. TRUE?? Thanks for this series as I am learning alot. ALSO. as things wear out, do you like to upgrade to newer technology as in solid state ignition conversion, an alternator rather than the old generator..? Thanks!!

@BundyBearsShed 5 лет назад

G Day Steve, With a tractor to go to a show and be shown as an original restoration I try and stick with old tech but on mt tractors that I drive a lot I use electronic ignitions and Alternators. I use the high octane fuel that is 98 over here and it seems to last well in the tanks and not go off on the tractors I dont use often. On an older engine I would not use the diesel oil as they can sometimes make an engine use oil but on a newly restored one yes no problem at all. I dont use a fuel additive and I cant see any more wear than I would normally expect but I have seen good arguments both ways I just choose not to use the additive.

@stevehinton5300 5 лет назад

@@BundyBearsShed thanks!! My Z145 hasn't been restored as far as i know. The tractor is in rough shape. Should i use hi-test LEADED gas or is unleaded ok..?