MF135 Restoration #15 Assembling the Injection Pump 

Lance, I have to thank you. I have a 1977 Land Rover Series III Diesel that was sitting for 8 years and two diesel mechanics couldn’t get it started. The second mechanic said the pump needed rebuilding and I never heard from him again. I started learning everything I could and another person on RU-vid credited you in a video so I started watching your videos. I decided to tackle the job myself and while watching your video I worked on my pump. I had a clear and clean bench 😀 as you direct and I have to say, at one point when I was ready to give up you said,”You have to just keep your wits about yourself” and that was what I needed at that moment. The Land Rover is now running. It blows some grey smoke for now but it runs so well. Thank You Lance from Carl here in Florida, USA.

Lance, a really big thank you for your videos and sharing with the world! I'm in Canada. White 1350 tractor, I did get the spring set up wrong on the bottom of the injection pump and once on your site found the manual for the CAV pump and figured it out. I also didn't see the timing mark on the gear attached to the front of the engine. Have done a lot of mechanical but wanted to try the injection pump. Wouldn't have got it without several times watching your calm a detail you did. Bench tested alright but still couldn't start the tractor.... Tractor friend and customer of my construction company said he had 3 tractors locally that he had to tow after even fuel filter changes... After removing the pump once and rechecking on the bench, I reinstalled and 50ft pulling it in high road gear and a great sound of the engine was music to my ears! SUCCESS!! Again many thanks, Jim

G Day Lance, I’ve really enjoyed these videos on the pump overhaul.. I used to work as a truck mechanic years ago but never got to strip any fuel pumps, they were always sent to the fuel injection dealer for repair. These videos are great and I really appreciate the extra effort it must take in making them.

These DPA pumps without an advance are very simple. If you have a tractor that sat for a few years, cleaning it out like this will most likely get you back to 'start and run' condition. But this is not rebuilding the injection pump. These pieces of equipment are old and I don't blame people for diy repairs. I think this was a good video, but people should be aware that a proper rebuild replaces more components and involves calibrating the pump. This ensure maximum service life and proper fuel delivery without excessive emissions. I understand many people can put up with some running issues as long as they can make it work for a few hours a year and yes save a lot of money. I'm giving this video a thumbs up.

You're the man Lance. I picked up a Long 445 and have been going through the diesel system trying to get it running. The injection pump is a little backwards / different than the one you rebuilt, but 90% same components. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your trade, it's been an overwhelming educational experience. Thank you friend!

Great videos Lance, I just finished fixing the same fuel pump on an international backhoe that would not inject, with help from this video I found the plungers in the head stuck from sitting too long, cleaned it all up and re-sealed, tested in the vice, injecting now, you beauty! I'll bolt it on next week and hopefully it fires up. I also have a siezed Ferguson TE20 that I need to rebuild so I'll be watching your videos on your fergie with keen interest. Great job your doing, not many people are rebuilding anything these days so this stuff is gold. Malcolm Finlay, Mount Isa

This is and awesome training tool and I’ve looked for something like this for days. Thank you so much for your attention to detail and ease of explaining everything.

Hello Lance, London calling again, well still somewhere in rural England actually - tractor country. You've still got it - the ability to pass on knowledge succinctly whilst keeping it interesting. Really enjoying your MF135 series - keep on videoing mate. Until next time ....

OUTSTANDING Lance. Followed along with my pump that had been sitting 13 years. now it works like a charm! $18 for the kit ! Beat the dickens out of $450 for a shop rebuild!

Thank you so much for showing the reassembly of the top cover, I've been trying to get the spring on with a pair of needle nose pliers and had not been successful. Now I know to connect the spring inside and then put the top on! Edit: I just finished this job on my AD4-203 Perkins motor, the only thing I would add is to make sure the stopper nipple on the bottom side is facing the motor block when you put back on. Mine was not and I could not get the pump to push fuel at all. Took the top back off and fixed the problem, also the spring should move like Bundy shows in the video, if it is not hooked up properly both will move freely from each other (the throttle and stopper) I had to use the hand pump to push fuel back into the injection pump, that is what the bleed screws are for, once I did this it was very easy to get the motor to fire and run again. Thank you so much to Bundy Bears Shed channel for this and his other videos. I love that he uses regular hand tools and explains everything so well. Would feel comfortable attempting about anything that this man has made a video about.

Thanks matey, I have a Perkins 4236 in a boat.Priced a new cav pump from perkins $2.500.full rebuild $1.200,seals only rebuild $600, one from china $600. Thanks to you I did full rebuild for $400. Runs like a top

Brilliant - taken the "mystery" out of these pumps, thank you.

I attempted a rebuild a few years back, and ended up buying a new pump. My new pump had just failed, so watched your video which covered some stuff i didnt see before. Mr furgy is back to singing bud-ha-bud-ha-bud-ha. I will also be rebuilding the old pump, now i know how to deal with it. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you so much, it helped me to fix my leaking fuel pump specially from min 36 to 42 which explained how to test every parts are installed correctly. Appreciate your time and efforts and your descriptive video.

Thanks so much for this video! I rebuilt the CAV pump on my 1960 International B275 after watching and it works great. I especially like the bench test of the pump and shut down mechanism. I was concerned about it running away and that eased my worries.

🔥🔥🔥Outstanding. Fixed my backhoe from your great videos. A billion thanks. 👍👍👍

Thanks to videos like this one I was able to tackle my pump overhaul. Not without problems however but I do think I learned something that might be helpful to others as well. I believe I had a serious air lock after disassembly and just could not get it to pressurize fuel at all. I disassembled again and filled the fuel passages in the rotor shaft with wd-40 and then proceeded with suggested procedures. Right away I got fuel spurts when turned over by hand for the first time.

Hi Lance. Thank you for a great instructional vid. I picked up a kit from your site and with the help of your instructions was able to fit up the pump. Looks great atm. Thanks again. Phil

Thanks Lance, I owe you a beer or three, mate. Only problem I had is that my pump, MF50A backhoe, is reverse rotation to yours. Had to pull HP pump apart to free small pistons and put roller in backwards, realized this at 3AM lying in bed. corrected this and runs like a charm. If I never get back downunder, I will have to look you up, but Queensland is too bloody hot for me. Vic, Canada

Another great video - I thought you put the spring in the wrong hole, but you couldn't hear me talking to the screen LOL.

Thanks for the videos, I got my injector pump back running on my NH L783 thanks to you.

Just done mine with your help, she runs like a top now! Thanks mate! Off to the pub with some of me savings, we'll have a Bundies for you! 👍🏼

Very good and better information for my pump, thank you

This definitely gives me the confidence to give a go at it, and dig into my pump. Guessing either that little screen, or more likely, stuck pistons, from the pump sitting for nearly three years while I was rebuilding the engine.

Another great video. Excellent filmed and explained. Thank you from Denmark.

I find putting the regulator valve together before installing cover on pump much easier. Everything slides in horizontally. Good video . Thanks.

Exactly what I was thinking. "Filter upside down." 😄👍 Great stuff. Appreciate it.!

I could watch your vids just to hear the good country music you play ! And thanks for not playing it during the instructions , as I have seen some doing .

I've just had one of these start leaking on my 1985 Universal UTB 640 tractor. I'm in Canada- wish you lived a little closer and I'd gladly pay you to rebuild it! Still, great video, thanks for the demonstration.

another awesome video Lance ,thanks so much for all the information much appreciated

Great video Lance. Keep up the good work 👍

Re-installed the pump today. Starts and runs like a champ and no leaks!! Used the new end cap too. I didn't get yours because you don't ship to Canada; you should fix that :) Just so you know, I generally do things two or three times... good practice, I guess. Again, thanks for the videos Lance. I never would have tackled this job without them. My 135 is a '67 six speed as well, so I'm always watching your videos.

Ha, after your reassembly you adjusted the mark to the left flange. Glad to see at 20.55. 😜👍

Thanks so much . Hooking up the governor spring on both ends sure saves a lot of “fiddling “ installing the cover . Why didn’t I think of that ????!!!

Really good instructions, put out in layman's terms.( simple)

Another great tutorial Lance, now to wait to test and see if you did it right, 😂😂😂

Thank you for this istructive video, it realy helpt me out,since I´m haveing a -71 135 under restauration, so once againe, thanks a lot!

Thank You so much for making this video I had the inlet valves all out of sequence.....you saved me $$$$

Thanks i was messing with a pump off a wee 35x all day and getting nowhere till I watched your video now shes sucking diesel i owe you a pint

Thanks for the video!! The information was a great help Greetings from Sweden 👌

CAV very best pump Old is gold

I caught that too Should be in the hole closest to the pivot. "Just can't get good help these days" LOL

My big problem was the crap in my tank. After I replaced the tank problem fixed. Fuel filters could not keep crap out of pump. Hope this helps

Thank you from texas

Another great video Lance! I got to get me one of those bead blasters!

Great video but you missed on approx. 20 minutes the alignement of the top bracket (clip) with the lower one. You can see on the video that the rollers are not fitted properly. But any way very big help for these pumps

for putting springs and stuff down into deep holes i have often had to put the springs onto a thin long screwdriver, put the screwdeiver in the hole then drop the spring in, they can only go in to place as the screwdriver shaft acts as a guide.

Thank you for your time sir!! great Video!!

Was going to make this comment on your disassembly, but thought it would make more sense here. 8:10 Instead of marking the housing on back side of the circle clip make your scribe on the other side. 10:08 Scribe a line on the the square end of the clip where your finger is. Start the scribe on the clip face, and continue onto the housing. It will be more accurate, and you can see it while reassembling.

Hi Lance ,on your drawing on the lever, the spring is in the hole closest the shaft, not the middle one

Just like that, nothing to it. Maybe you should have been a shop teacher, then again, it seems you are. Another good one Lance.

That is a great instruction video 😀

G day Lance, thanks very much for the training. Could you please explain the 20 | 24 ° 1. Are these degrees printed on the back of the flywheel? 2. Lastly does all messy ferguson tractors have the plug where you see these timing degrees (e.g. 20|24)?

Greetings from Serbia!

So much information you have

I ordered the end cap, with the steel insert, the original on was aluminum no steel insert, and was really rough looking, could this cause low fuel pressure, I have no pressure coming from the pump to the injectors, the fuel just drips out of the lines. I would think it should spray somewhat hard.

On your video MF135 Restoration #14 Dismantling the Injection Pump at 14:27 the spring was in the first hole from the shaft. At 32:20 in this video, on your drawing I believe you confused the circle for the shaft as one of the holes the spring goes in. I'm sure you've figured that out by now, as I'm very late to this party. Thanks for the videos!!

Oh BTW my original end cap has the pin on the left side and my new one has it on the right side, that means the vane ring would be 180 degrees out, so will that make a difference?

Also I don't understand where the "shuttle" and the "plunger" is, and the rollers are on the top of the pump correct?, I really don't know much about this tractor that I'm working on. it is a 1992 MF 30 industrial backhoe and loader, we thought it was a 65 model, it has a 4 cylinder engine. hasnt ran since 2005. Also the metering valve was cleaned when I rebuilt the injector pump. Is there any chance of the end cap valve bad, it was pretty rough and pitted where the veins run against.

​ @Bundy Bears Shed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

Hi Lance, regarding the Incredibly Important Circlip... What does it actually do? Is it just a timing reference mark or does it have a physical function?

Lance, your spring is in the wrong hole. It was the one closest to the pivot hole. Good video very informative

What happens if the end cap has the pin on the other side, my pin is on the letter A on my old end cap and the new one is on the letter C.?

Dont think my seal kit came with the fiber washer you put on the plunger. Is it critical? Or do I need to get a new seal kit?

Hola una consulta que pasa si la bomba inyectora tiene mucha presión

Well, I took the pump apart again to re-check my work. Dang, I put the cam in backwards. The arrow was facing to the front and the c-clip shadow lines were facing the the rear (end plate direction). Rookie mistake and I don't know how I did that!! I must have flipped it in my fingers as I was putting it in and then convinced myself that I saw the shadow lines when looking through the timing hole at the c-clip. That's a big oops. I'm going to re-install the pump today so I'll let you know if it works.

47:15 The fibre washer I got in the seal kit didn't fit at all, (too small ID) and ended up splitting. Can I just use any fibre washer the same size? Or is it made out of something special?

Hi Lance, .MFtractor ran out of fuel, and a load of crap entered into pump. Cleand all systems out, new lift pump, new filter, had end of pump cleaned rotor blades, nice and free.Had top of pump checked everything,nothing wrong, but still no delivery out of pump when we try to start tractor, Any ideas regards Mick over in England.

Great video! Cheers from Tassie ;)

Wsk poznan spare parts. I used delphi parts for repairing dpa pump for 4-248 engine. But Your pump needs some calibrations. Such as maximum minimum fuel consumption or min max governor lever distance. Also also also You should add a spring to connect stop lever and throttle lever

what happens if the cam ring is installed backwards?

So Bundy i think I have a gas engine instead of a diesel, it is a 4 cylinder 1992 MF 30 industrial loader and backhoe. It will not run on diesel. I have good fuel pressure going into the injectors it just will not run, although it will run on starting fluid. How do I know whether it is diesel or gas, the tractor was torn apart and there was no fuel in the tank or the engine, it hasn't ran since 2005, my friend and I thought all backhoes and front loaders were diesel, I sure hope I didn't damage the engine if it is gas and not diesel.

Lance, I believe you put the spring into the wrong hole on the lever. It came out of the hole closest to the shaft, not the middle one.

In this video you line up the edge of the little notch in the black plate with the line on the housing of the roller housing, but in the 2 part video disassembly / reassemble you have that little notch centered on the line. The difference would be the amount of fuel delivery, ? Or is there another reason ? Also unless l am mistaken your prognosis of which way to move this black plate for more fuel , disagrees with the other video I am glad to see you using a rag between pliers & top plate. That wee line around the back you talk about , is it not around about where you said the timing mark (G) should be ?

Hello I need help for my DPA CAV pump ! My tractor is very hard to start, it seems that there is low pressure at startup. What do you think about this problem ? Which parts should I change to recover start pressure ? Thanks

Hi. I have disassembled, cleaned internally, put toric joints, retainers, vanes and all new end plate. I have mounted it again without problems, but by turning it manually to prime it with diesel and see if it works, I notice that it goes a little hard and goes like jerks. Can it be normal?

I have a MF 200 Massey Ferguson model 65 tractor. I previously watched this video and went through my CAV injector pump step by step with you, although i didn't mess with the rollers. so basically where do i get a complete rebuild kit, cam ring, and everything i need to go back through it again. I'm not getting fuel up to the injectors. i also replaced all the fuel filters and done a oil change on it. I took on this job on the tractor to help out a friend, the tractor was torn apart by someone else and i was able to get it back together, it only runs on starting fluid. it will not run without using starting fluid. i am thinking i have a timing issue, i get fuel to the injection pump but it is not pushing fuel up to the injectors. Do you have any suggestions for me Bundy??

hello I have a A3-152 motor that runs great but I cannot get it to run at high RPM . the motor came off a generator . throttle linkage is good but it only runs at a fixed speed and i cannot get it to rev up. It has a apparatus that can have a ground and a positive hooked to it but after i took it off there does not seem to have any movement when I energize it with a ground and hot lead Any thoughts would be helpful thanks

Still I ask when you are on the other side \\ thats my question there must be some way that you line up by some other way ?? but again thanks for a very good series of videos

Good one Lance......John

@Bundy Bears Shed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.

Hi Lance, Surely appreciate your videos. Have a strong mechanical aptitude and have now disassembled and reassembled this pump 5 times without getting pressure enough to squirt through the banjo bolt valves. Pushed a pin punch into each banjo bolt and the spring pressure is quite stout but the piston moves fine. Have installed new veins, rotor, cover (with steel insert) and took the entire head apart, spraying carburetor cleaner through all the tiny holes noting the escape. Every printed diagram has been gone through and each component is in the correct order. NO PRESSURE! Will need pressure to open the injectors as well. Is there some end play in the head that I am missing? ...... Now on some foot notes for you and the mass crowd: The drive for the veins is right hand thread (lefty loosy) counter clockwise loose..... 2nd: The part that regulates the fuel amount (where the two screws go in to hold the rollers and all that) can only go on one way. The master daug lines up even if it is flipped over, BUT the two bolt holes are NOT 180 degrees apart and it will not bolt up. Just for those who lost track of 'witness' marks. This pump is very simple and I still can't get pressure. Now without the banjo bolts it squirts fine, as soon as I put it together it just oozes out! I just cant imagine what it could be. I adjusted the fuel amount wide open, still no pressure. Is there a check valve I'm missing? Ford 555 Backhoe. This pump has been taken apart previously by some others and returned to my poor neighbor in not so good condition. I am now making an attempt to repair it. Everything in your video is in that pump. Everything in the diagram is in that pump! I put straight banjo bolts (without valves) and there is not enough pressure to open the injectors Ie; 120 to 200 psi is needed before they will spray! Put an adapter in a drill and spun the pump to no avail! Yes, the stopper and metering valve are correct. Governor spring is in correct #7 by the chart. ..........HELP! .....................PLEASE

My timing mark on the pump is about a quarter of an inch up from the mark on the keys I Tractor starts like a dream runs like a dream but the thing is leaking so I just got my sparex kit should i leave it where it is also the timing on the fly wheel I see no marks should I just scribe a mark there for reference

Hello again. I studied the issue further and discovered that it wasn't the steel insert that was too thick. It was that the machined slot in the end cap that the insert fits into had a high spot in the middle. The insert would teeter back and forth from the center in all quadrants. I figured that the high spot must have been pushing the insert into the shaft. So, I got the dremmel and sanded down the center of the slot making the surface as level as I could. Now the insert fits much better and is flush with the outer rim of the slot. I was careful not to touch the outer part of the surface so the insert sits in level. I installed the end cap again and the pump turns freely. So, as long as the newly sanded surface doesn't affect the fuel flow, I should be golden. What do you think?

Not so golden now. Installed the pump on the tractor and it won't start. It's getting fuel at the injectors. I even put the old end cap back on and still won't start; turns over good but not even trying to start. I can't see how I could have messed up the timing. I've had the pump off before for painting and started right up on install. BTW- I didn't mess with the insides of the pump at all except resealing. Any ideas?

Hey mate, don't know if you caught it but that little line next to the rollers lined up on the other side of the gap in the retaining plate when you were pulling it apart.

Hi Lance, one last question before I turn the key... Do I need to bleed the lines up at the injectors? Or is bleeding at the pump enough?

Do the metal washers pump head come with the kit on the banjo fitting ?

Thank you Lance for another very instructional video. Is there any reference material anywhere regarding symptoms versus likely failed parts? Like diesel into oil it's likely these parts, or if poor performance it's likely those parts?

Greetings Lance. I've a question: The acorn nuts on the top cover, do people sometimes wire those together? I ask because they have holes in them like crank cap bolts on old Ford engines do. Cheers.

On a cav pump can you remove the back iend without removine the pump from the motor ?Mine is leaking where the the vane end goes into the main body.

Hi Lance. Im having trouble with a pump like this ( it s a Romanian copy made under lIcense). My question : the metal ring at the back of the pump in wich the vanes rotate (transfer pump) , has any orientation? Because i don t have a witness mark on it and it seem to be the same if i put it either way.. Thanks!

was just going to say what the rest have said about the throttle spring

Hi Lance, great work, very helpful videos, I am currently resealing my pump on a mf 65, as it was leaking around the head, I also have a erratic idle, is there anything I can look out for while I have it stripped down, I had hoped someone had placed the governor spring was in the wrong position, but not so, also have a heavy diesel knock on acceleration

Hi Lance, should turning the pump by hand generate enough pressure to force fuel through a banjo fitting that has a valve in it?

My 35 the injection pump came loose, I drove it a quarter of a mile turned it off. It was making a clicking noise. After fighting the pump up the engine hardly turns over. I checked the oil there was a little on the end of the oil dipstick. While turning it over I heard a clunck sound. Thinking I need to take it apart. timing cover and pump to see what is going on. Any suggestions?

Hi, thanks for the clip! I did as you showed, I mounted the pump to the tractor (Ford 3610, year 1982), but the tractor does not move :( If I put some carburetor spray in the air filter, the tractor starts and everything is fine, that is, the pump works, but to start, the tractor fails to start. What did I do wrong?

Hello Lance, I've been busy resealing my injector pump; thanks so much for the videos!! But, I ran into an issue that I'm wondering if you've seen before. I bought a new end cap since the original was worn and it doesn't want to fit. When I tighten the end cap on, I can't turn the pump. It seems to me that the steel insert is too thick and it's hitting the end of the shaft before the bolts are fully tight. If I try backing off the bolts slightly, I can turn the pump but the o-ring leaks. This would be no good anyway because how do you keep them from coming out of they're not tight. Have you seen this before? Is it possible to sand down the steel insert plate thickness by a couple of thousands? Or, should I just return it. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

Thanks for video I resealed my 1080 Massy. After I put pump back on tractor it is running higher RPM at idle and throttling up . Took top back off to check spring location was in same holes came out of checked governor looks like in flats. Any suggestion what i did wrong. I turned throttle set screws for know not to run to fast and achieve low idle speed.

Even when i crank mine over with the starter l don’t get that much fuel, Thanks for the video