Summery of information I have gathered about the commonly failing high pressure fuel pump for the Mini Cooper. Possibility for repair under circumstance of lost oil.
This is why I love the internet!!! We all have (had) our little finds, and never cared to share… as the world goes round, we all keep inventing wheels over and over again… Knowledge is to be shared and stored, no to be held back or kept a secret! Thanks for sharing! Keep it up!! 👍🏼
Thanks, this helped me fix the identical pump from a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso with THP155 engine. Meanwhile, the replacement pump arrived but I've done several 1000km without any problems so I left the repaired pump in the engine. It may be important to know that the problem didn't disappear on the spot, but the repaired pump needed a little breaking in before all was back to normal. Thumbs up!
By breaking in what do you mean? This is my current situation I am in. Refurbed the pump reinstalled and thrown 2c01 code. Low pressure in hpfp. How did your car behave until it ran well and did it throw any codes?
@@leonard54321 The error code is unknown to me but obviously equivalent to P0087 in the Citroen world. After replacing the pump, the engine worked well straight away but some stuttering came back say during the first 100km. In don't remember if there were any error codes. After you fixed the pump, did you measure the distance to the diaphragm? Should be well below 20mm or else your repair failed in the first place.
@@janhemming2677 I did Jan Infact I had the opposite problem I used a hand pump vacuum on the diaphragm while installing the drive side. Ended up with a measurement of an increment below 12mm which equally worried me as that was it's minimum ultimate limit it could not be depressed anymore. After that I slowly unscrewed 3 screws until enough oil seeped out to create a 16mm dist from diaphragm to inner bell housing
To me, it appears that the oil inside loses its viscosity causing the piston to lose its seal. Therefore, the bellows will not cycle its full-length witch will cause a decrease in fuel pressure. This is more likely caused by the extreme heat transferred from the head onto the pump. The pump acts as a heat sink from the head and takes in all the hat transferring it onto the oil inside. My 2 cents would be to change this oil every 3o-40k miles.
Just to share my experience...at the tine of my comment I replsced the oil by 0w20 sintetic ( same for auto motor) ..I dived the two parts in order of close it without any such little air'bubble. So far, 12k kilometers roared. btw, my pump is original from 2014..
Hi, Does anyone tried to dive the pump into a contsiner with oil in order to guarantee no air inside the pimp before close it.. I was just wondering such method ..
Hi, Thanks for the video! Does anyone know if you can get a "Lazy Pump". I have had every thing replaced on the fuel system, but had the HPFP refurbished, but still have the same symptoms. When on full acceleration I get around 1800psi, at idle it fluctuates from around 630psi to 750psi. However when idling and bliping the accelerator or coming to a stop, i get a massive drop in fuel pressure, and it shows around 200psi, and then gradually goes back up to where it starts to fluctuate again around the 650-750psi mark. This causes the car to stutter badly but does not actually stall. On startup I get a slight hesitation/hicup and then the fuel pressure climbs to the 650-750psi mark and fluctuates there again. car with ignition on is at 70.5psi which is what the in tank fuel pumps are rated at. Could this be a bad HPFP. Alot of money to fork out if it isn;t that. Cheers for your help
Greetings from Mexico , I followed your steps and successfully y ended up with a good working pump. But I didnt change the seal, I couldn't find the part number , do you happen to have a part number? Im planning to take it apart nextime soon so I can change seal and orings .thank you for your tips.
Why don’t u tear down the solenoid and change the o rings on the fuel side? They dry out and don’t hold the proper amount of pressure. That’s where the fuel does it’s business
Would this be cause of no crank ons chilly morning? I recently finished up replacing clutch and it sat for a week and when I tried to start there was nothing??
@@carlosandresparra9306 im in malaysia. the intake temp goes to 63'c (obd2) then my 2103 peugeot 3008 p84 go to limp mode (very hot day, big trucker catch fire and cause jam at highway). heating of the engine compartment - pump heated then fail... after my car cool down for 2 hour at oil gas station- back to normal after i clear code
This video also misses vital steps which prevent this happening in the future, and prevent the pump being damaged... up to people whether they think it’s worth the risk or use a professional
There is no way to prevent it from happening again other than changing your oil often with the correct oil. You replace them when they wear out. That simple
I find that they fail more often from the pressure regulation valve mostly due to hardened seals which comes into contact with the fuel. It can be removed and resealed also heat affects the solenoid mechanism of the valve itself where either the coil windings break down or the valve becomes sticky not regulating the fuel flow correctly
I've revived my pump from 17mm to 27mm on the diaphragm. My fuel pressure is now in the 700+psi @ idle. It idles smooth now. Not sure how long it's going to last but I'll try and provide updates when possible.
Hi SSA - Is this channel still active? Can you be contacted via other social media? I have a question about a damaged thermal compensator housing. TIA.
Could You Show us the spring retract step plssss! I don’t understand when exactly should I retract de spring and how. Before or after the pump is closed?