Question: Rather than use a breaker bar in conjunction with the special crank pulley holder tool, can I use my Millwaukee high torque impact wrench (2767) to remove the crank pulley bolt after locking the crankshaft and camshafts with the camshaft alignment timing tool?
The top guide rail needs to be fitted before the pre-tension is set, and if you're looking through comments for torque the cams on N14 20nm + 180° for inlet 20nm + 90° exhaust 25nm chain guide bolts, Wouldn't use new ones i never have and I've done literally hundreds. Bit of silicone grease on the O-rings, Crank is 50nm + 180° Tensioner 65nm Make sure you fit the guide rail before you pre tension or tighten anything, it will be wrong if you fit it after timing is set.
What if the top guide rail fails as in my case with this one I've just bought (1.6 Prince engine in a 2008 Peugeot with 78k miles and a new chain at 39k according to the full service history) the top rail (T shape) is just, well, all missing after the curve! Just the Pedestal and 2 bolts remain with no sign of the plastic or the "T" Piece it sits on. Just jagged metal is left where the chain has been slapping against it. Wtf? Anyway, fault code says P11A8 "exhaust dephaser solenoid coherence fault" so I've replaced that, no change, rattle worse in fact. Then decided to look under cam cover at the top guide and it's half missing as said already. So anyway my question is, will reinstating a new top guide bring the timing back to how it was initially set, or is that too much to expect?! Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, I did notice though there was some sections missing, I have a Peugeot 308 which pretty much has this same engine in it, mine has the EP6, and I think I have the death rattle. At what point to you replace the torx bolts that hold the plastic guides in place ? Which point do you attach the top guide ? removal of these parts were in your video, but re-install wasnt.
What if I have the camshafts not aligned due to a vacuum pump failure, I have no compression on all cylinders. Everything else looks fine. Anyway I can solve that or that means I have bend valves?
Do I need to get whole set (all parts) when changing timing chain? Or just specific parts like timing chain, guide rail, chain tensioner, sprocket and guide rail will do? Tq.
I have a mini 2011 with this engine whats the biggest mileage expected with original chain? Its got 110k miles on original one and i always just make sure the oil is on max level and s/s turned off, what could be expected thanks
Hi . Got a peugeot 207 1.4 benzine . Got a fault code p11a8 . Not sure if its just 1 of the regulator or the chain is stretched . The motor has no power at all after a couple kilometers . Cold motor its ok with enough power . Can some one give me advise about this problem pls !?
Good Morning I really liked your video ... I have a mini cooper s r53 with burnt head joint .... I would like to acquire the tools present in this video and know the tightening torques. please have the sale of this material or have the electronic and physical indereco thank you for sending Preferably stores that can ship to mocambique ... south africa I am waiting urgently
R53 engine is a w11, different engine from the N14 engine. Only tool needed is cam lock tool go Baum tool search for minicooper w11 cam lock. Complete set will cost approximately under US$100.00, it has a single timing chain gear arrow will point at 12 o'clock when properly timed. With cam lock install. Head bolts 15mm head bolts 30Nm then 30Nm againg spiral pattern from center out. 13mm head bolts 20Nm. Then last step 90°angle torque in all 15mm head bolts. (Remember not to turn the engine once cam gear is removed so you don't loose crankshaft position. If you do front timing chain cover needs to come out and need to follow copper timing chain marks) so just be careful so you add extra work to your day. Good luck
All the timing chains I've ever done have had marks on them to correspond with marks on the sprockets, the N14 doesn't appear to have these. Are the sprocket's relationship with the cams and crank set purely by the clamping forces generated when torquing down their bolts while the timing is held in place with the tools in the assembly stage?
@@lyt_w8t Thanks yes makes sense no lining up marks/ sprokets etc like the older cars, lock cams and crank and tighten the gears were ever they are with the tensioner in, it looks complicated because it is so easy and time saving and more accurate
this was the question I needed answered too, where can I find the torch specs for the rest of the procedure ...It isn't worth doing if you don't do it right.
John Michael he isn't wrong however.. Thermostat Water pipe Valve cover Oil filter housing/cooler seals Transmission axle seals Transmission valve body Front seal Rear seal Friction wheel Vacuum pump Timing chain/guides Oil consumption I have not even addressed body/chassis gremlins like CAS modules, and instrument cluster. I'm not complaining however. MINI's pay the bills!
From a mechanical point of view, those of the MINi are very entertaining engines, because you are going to have to open them many times. From the user's point of view, what you are going to have to open many times is your wallet. They are shitty engines. The only thing they are worth is to melt them and remove an aluminum block to make soda cans.
The funny thing is, the BMW fans blame its unreliability on the fact it's a joint Peugeot design, but it's all the BMW bits that fail. The engine is based on a Peugeot bottom end that in turn is based on the old, bulletproof TU engine. The short engine gets shipped to BMW who fit it with their bits (top end, VANOS and timing gear). And it's all those bits that fail. BMW cannot engineer robust camshaft chain drives to save their lives.
