Here you will find a basic Mission Models user guide and work flow demo. This is a quick guide that covers Primer , ratios , painting and a quick intro to washes.
The best paints I've ever used in 40 years plus clean up is breeze, ease of use and an awesome finish plus authentic colors for military vehicles makes painting simple.. ..cheers and thanks
Hands down the best paint I’ve ever sprayed! Bought my first batch of them a month ago, watched this video before using and could not ask for a better spray and finish! Found my paints for good!
Very informative video. Great tips , very well explained. Everyone can learn something from this video. Covered all the do's and don'ts , from beginning to end . Thanks Jon, well done.
I was struggling with other paints being new to air brushing my kits. My local hobby shop put me onto these paints and they are a game changer. So many of my issues were resolved! Highly recommend
Still going good? I just tried my first Mission Models paint today without any issues but I've read a bunch of horror stories online about tip dry, chunky bottles of paint, etc. The general consensus is they're harder to work with compared to other water based acrylics. I normally only spray lacquers or solvent based acrylics, which are both very easy to use.
I have to admit I have enjoyed useing MMP now for the past few months and I dont see any reason to go with anything else and after seeing this i've picked up some more user tips that I can now put into practise at the bench .
Very cool! Can't wait to try them on my next project. Couple of questions; Whats the rate of curing? How long will a hot mix be workable and can you store it for future use?
Hi Jon I had little problem spraying the flat clear coat (MMA-004)my airbrush is Badger 105 with .3mm needle /nossle at 20psi it would only spray little bit at full travel so I put some thinner in it witch help and the temperature outside was about 15 degrees C just wanted to know if I did some wrong like was it too cold or did I not shake well enough because it was kind of thick. Thanks Henry
Try the createx 4011 thinner its made by createx they make mission model paint and if you let your paint set after you mix it for 15 minutes its amazing and you will not have any problems with mission model paint
I just picked up a few and didnt get or see your thinner. Would vallejo thinner or airbrush flow imorover work? The main reason besides the colors i wanted being in stock at the store when looking was that your paints are advertised as water soluable like vallejo and.citadel which im familiar with.
Hi and thanks it really helps me as just going to be using the 0932 Russian modern green in next couple of days still trying to find a outlet in U.K. I can use
We did not do any prep at all. No cleaning , sanding etc.... Thanks for asking. It is only needed if there is oil on the surface from your skin or dust from previous sanding etc
I'm probably being overly paranoid here, but I notice the poly additive contains a warning on it that says "Contains substance known to cause cancer in the state of California." Now, I know they throw that disclaimer on everything under the sun, so maybe it's nothing. But is Mission Models safe to spray indoors in my hobby room, or should I spray it outside if I use poly?
our products conform to all federal regulations by law. Please take a look at the other products on your bench that do not conform to federal labeling regulations. This is to protect you and to protect us with total traspancency Our products also conform to all prop 65 standards which means that any thing you need to know as a consumer is transparent and clear.
My apartment building has a sign that says that too, as do many office, or shopping buildings. You'll probably start noticing if you live in California. It's a California law that has to do with chemicals, and companies that want to sell in california that have any chemicals in their products that are on California's list put the label on to protect themselves from lawsuits. In reality, the chances of acrylic paint causing you cancer is pretty low, if not non-existent, however, you shouldn't spray any kind of paint indoors without proper ventilation, (i.e. a spray booth) that will take the excess fumes outside. At the minimum, wear a respirator mask.
nice i have just started using your paints. Can you do a video with your clear coats and are you able to do oil washes over them once they are dry with enamel thinner?
@@kiethpederson7558 - because they use their product so much, they counted out 30 drops of paint one time into the small mixing cup they use. After that, they just mentally noted where that amount came to on the side of the cup and just squirt an equal amount in future uses. And as he states several times throughout the video, the paint ratio is very forgiving, so even though they recommend 2 drops of thinner per 10 drops of paint, a slight variance isn't going to hurt anything.
Good demo 👍🏻only thing is .. have the whole plane ✈️ together so no variations in mix of paint an patterns 🎨, sure abstract is good.. unless you write your formulas down . I made notes 📝
The MAC valve just adds layers of confusion to me. What I find interesting is I cannot get MMP to spray well below 20 psi (straight out of the compressor, no MAC valve). I would be curious if you try out the airbrush at 10-15 psi direct from the compressor with the MAC valve turned wide open if it would work the same as turning the compressor up to 20 psi and only opening half of the MAC valve. There are two in line regulators at work with a MAC valve and it seems to me that while the MAC valve may be changing the pressures, it is also simultaneously changing the velocity of the paint itself. So I don't think it is as simple as talking only in PSI for those of us without a MAC valve. I think 20+psi is necessary without a MAC because my velocity and psi are set at a single point instead of having the ability to further adjust it at the airbrush. I think this is also why at 10-15 psi right out of the compressor, my velocity is lower and I experience a lot of tip dry and sputtering. Just a theory. I've found MMP to work great with air right out of my compressor- but only if they're thinned a little more and with higher psi setting (like 20+). Everyone's system is different and I think there is a lot of experimenting necessary that some modelers- especially some coming from Tamiya lacquer paint- just don't see the need for because they feel like it should "just work" if they follow a basic, "universal" instruction.
Just got some MM paint because I'm going to be doing a custom gunpla build soon. Came for info on the recommended mix and to see how well it worked. Stayed for the jive tunes.
I also have the harder and steenbeck, you absolutely need to have that aircap off while working with acrylics. It will spit because of paint build up in the front.
I have been using Mission Models Paint for Over two years now! The full Line Metallics , Gloss, Flats the whole line... There are Sooo many manufactuers of model paint these days....All of the Say the same...Our paint is the best.... Alot of them are EXPENSIVE....Mission Models Paint Simple keeping the thinner and Slow dry additive out of the Paint. Giving shelf life far and above standard paints..... Just try the paint line....In fact some of my paint I add thinner to the whole bottle...Yes the shelf life decreases but paint I use most I thin in the bottle...Any other colors the method perscribed by Mission models I use.... Oh Yes the Primers ARE Great! Again See for yourself..... BUY THE PAINT, MISSION MODELS PAINT!!!!!!!! Cost 5 to 7 dollars depending on the paint type or color
Just tried your primer, gloss black for chrome to be specific. Bottle said do not thin, I had to add thinner to get it to spray out of my airbrushes, tried all 3 at 25 psi.
They don't spray like that for me.spraying with steenbeck .2 needle set up and most time full trigger and not the size spray pattern it's supposed to be..may it's needs to be thinner.
So uh call me a dumbass if ya like I was cleaning my Airbrush got all the parts cleaned and ready to be reassembled well I while I was putting the nozzle back on I twisted it too tight and it broke in half. Half came off and half is stuck where it should be I have a back up but I’m having trouble getting the bottom half of the broken one out anyone have any ideas on how
I was following your paints in Turkey and bought many of your paints from Şimşek Makina. I am very happy with normal paints Unfortunately, the primers and polies are broken down. I tried to airbrush it, I cannot spray it because turns like a putty. I went Şimşek Makina again and he apologies for this and gives me two more new bottle with no cost but also these are not good. It is not a good think for Turkish Market. We are very happy with your dealer but we are not happy with your primers and polies
