Mission Models MMP introduction to metallics. Here you will find a quick basic guide to mixing and spraying the Mission Models MMM series of acrylic metallic paint. This is a quick and general guide.
Now I'm tempted to do a worn paint over metal finish! I've only used a couple of the Mission Models paints so far, but love them! Great video tutorials BTW.
These paints are now my primary and standard paints. They lay down better than others I've tried, does not clog or build up on the tip like others is much easier to clean up. Can't recommend them enough.
Enjoy your candour vids are very informative, do love working with the paints..mission models..am an old modeler just returned to hobby sure beats old humbrol n testers wow and with an airbrush whole new hobby out there please keep em coming vids that is....cheers
Have a general question on MMP paints. Let's say I mix some MMP-111 Red Anti-fouling with the MMA-001 Poly and MMA-003 Thinner for a ship project and I have a lot left over. Can I store the remainder in an empty bottle to use for the next project weeks later without it being detrimental to the paint's performance? Really like what I've seen so far in MMP paint. Watching all the recent MMP videos including this one has been a big help in understanding the paint system. Thank you.
Any issues with taking a hairdryer to speed up drying time? I only get so much time at the bench and try to maximize as much time as I can. Thanks! Love MMP!
There are no issues. You can accelerate with a hairdryer. Dont get the paint too hot. We always recommend letting the paint dry naturally but if needed you can use a hairdryer.
Thanks for the video. Should I use a clear cote before decals, washes and weathering? How do MM metallics react to MM clear cotes and other brand's coats, especially to lacquer based ones? The last question; What should be the choice of final cote for a full metal painted model? Thanks.
I realize this comment is a year old, but for anyone curious, I recently used Faded Aluminum on the fuselage of my Mustang. Did not clear coat over it and it took decal solutions (Micro Set/Sol & Mr. Mark Setter/Softer) and oil wash (Mona Lisa Odorless Thinners) just fine. I'm personally not a fan of putting clear coats over metallics, unless you are trying to after a certain effect.
I just noted that in this video, you recommend pre-mixing the Duraluminum with thinner and poly, but in your chrome video, you recommend shooting that color straight. Please explain the difference. Are each of your metallic colors formulated differently? Different viscosity? Different pigment ratio?
I saw this line at my local Hobbytown. I have been using Alclad II for metallic finishes and am pretty disappointed. The lighter colors have zero durability when masking. This looks interesting.
I know he mentioned you do not need a gloss black primer I can say it looks amazing with the gloss back, but....but....it will not cure. I tried several brands of gloss black and with each one, you can take the tip of your finger and rub the metallic off from one end of the part to the other to the point it doesn't even look like you painted it. This after about a week of curing time. The flat primers...no issue. Just not as brilliant. Great paints overall though love them.
Hi are these paints acrylic? I order a bunch last night but just Remembered about thinner this morning! Do they need the mission models thinner or any work with them just now till the order for the thinner comes?
No we do not reccomend pouring pre thinned paint back into the bottle. We do not pre thin any of our products as pre thinned paint can create a shelf life and premature kick over.
