Frank, I tried a 50:50 mix of MMP and Future (now Pledge Revive It floor gloss in the UK) and the result was excellent! Gave a rock hard, sheen finish; impervious to rough tape treatment, water and odourless thinners/white spirit (so can be used with oils for weathering). I'm also now using Stynylrez primer rather than MMP. Thank you for the great tip.
Great review!!! I've just had my first experience with MM acrylic on an aircraft project: Kinetic's 1:48 S2E Tracker. Up to this point I have always used Tamiya/Vallejo/maybe even some old Master Modelers by Testers I still had kicking around. Well; back to the Mission Models... I had laid down a nice primer coat of Vallejo black. After setting a day or so I masked off (using Scotch 3m "Delicate Surface" tape), sprayed my Light Gull Grey on. No paint pulled off. Mind you I ONLY used some lightly thinned MM paint. No other "additives." When I came to decal...OMG!!!!!!! What is HAPPENING! That's when I found out about this stuff! Now I AM, and always HAVE been a believer in Future, or Pledge, so I over sprayed a light coat, then after curing another coat. The next decals went much better. But Man!!! I'm thinking of going w/ Mr. Color for my next project, as I cannot find the colors I need other than Mr. Color, or MM for the next build (super detailing a Kinetic 1:48 F-105A/C in Viet Nam era camo.
I've just had endless adhesion issues with one bottle (No. 073), and thinning it with future fixed it. I believe that particular bottle was from a defective batch because the other colors performed flawlessly so far, I must say MMP gives great results when it works. Thank you again for sharing this method and being objective about it, it is what it is. Best wishes from Australia.
Love the scientific exploration! I love the mission models finish but am totally on board with your assessment of random adhesion issues. Never a good time for adhesion issues that is for sure! I also hate their clear finishes. The Matt is more of an eggshell and therefore worthless as a final coat. I am willing to give your method a try in lieu of priming if it does away with the adhesion issue. Taking it a step further, is the gloss high enough to now bypass the gloss coat before decalling? If so, you probably found the holy grail in paint. I appreciate your input!
Got to about the 9:00 minute mark and you mentioned Future as a thinner/glaze additive. Yep, I’m with you. Stuff works the same with Model Master also. Mix 50/50 or a tad to the Future side, sprayed over your favorite primer and you can almost remove the glossing overcoat stage for washing and decaling. Stretches paint usage. I can not claim stake to this technique, I read about it on the old ARC site nearly a decade ago by a modeler that went by the handle Danger Atom. A hat tip to both of you for this.
I've started using Mission Models paint recently, and I have experienced the same issue with the paint peeling off or chipping with fingernails. I have found a less expensive option than using Mission Models primer. I'm currently building Tamiya's 1/48 Tiger and sprayed Mission Models Dunkelgelb 44 & found that the paint stayed on & did not chipp. I sprayed Tamiya flat black for a shadow coat first and then I used Tamiya's light grey on my Fw190d9 first, then used Mission Models paint and did not have any peeling or chipping issues.
I really wanted MM paints to work for me. I've moved to water-based paints to remove the smell of lacquer based paints, particularly in the clean up process. I like their colour range and colour accuracy and the ethos of the company. However, I've had nothing but problems with adhesion and I'm not looking for this hobby to give me stress and unpredictable results. Will I give it another try with Klear?; maybe to use up the paint I have. I won't try it with MCLT - I might as well use AK Real Color in that case. Really appreciate your experimentation on our behalf.
Hello Frank, thanks for your analysis. I am not even trying MMP due to the high up-front cost to get started, and the high(er) cost per bottle in Europe.
Good points on the Mission Models paints. My best friend/modeling buddy bought into these paints hook, line, and sinker and had many issues when following their initial processes. We bought about $200 total in product soon after Jon started. He has since revised his mixing ratios, btw, but never would admit it. We had masking/paint lifting issues, poor coverage, poly going bad in only a few months, etc. My buddy reached out to Jon twice, explaining that he used only Mission products and followed the directions to the letter. Tamkin basically told my friend he was an idiot who didn't know how to airbrush or follow directions. At that point, he gave me all of his stuff and basically said "Screw him". I've hung on to the paints, tossed the ruined poly, and just set them aside. I've used Future with FolkArt craft paints with good success and I'll be trying the same to maybe get decent results with the Mission Models paints. One thing you didn't mention in the video (or maybe I missed it) is your airbrush tip size and spraying pressure when using the MMP/Future mix as well as the thinners mix to do the mottling. Thanks again.
Excellent video. What do you use to clean Future out of the airbrush? I haven't sprayed Future in years but seem to remember using nail polish remover for cleaning.
Hi Michael, I typically use windex, then flush with lacquer thinner. Here is another video on how I actually spray future. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_WhJ9qBQmvg.html
All I can say is “Wow!” I’m not one who buys new paint because it’s the newest paint out there and I don’t like the price of Mission Model paint that is only available on line. Even model guru Flory from England tried it and didn’t like the high maintenance and then he switched to a brand his store sells. His philosophy is find a paint that works easy and stick with it. I think you did that with Mission Model paint in your great demonstration. I use Future all the time but never mixed it with paint. I will now though with my paint of choice which is Bombshell Brew acrylic paint. Wonderful video and I will now subscribe to your channel. Thanks
There are a couple of things that I find a bit troubling about your video, notwithstanding your results. You talk about the paint,if used as the manufacturer recommends, doesn’t stand up to masking, but you don’t demonstrate that. I use the paint over the badger primer and haven’t experienced a masking problem. You also state that you have to use their thinner to clean your ab, which is just not true. If you watch their videos, they advocate cleaning the ab with water (cheaper even than lacquer thinner) with just a few drops of their thinner for a final flush. While your process works for you, you are using the paint, future, MLT, and lacquer thinner...that doesn’t strike me as being less complicated than what Mission recommends.
@@rberchin I have had MMP paint pull up after following their recommend process. It's also annoying to me to have to do all that "stuff" . I'm not suggesting this is better for you , but it is very much better for me (IMHO). I am showing that it works - also I can spray MUCH finer work than the "recommened". I find not using primer and adding a few drops of future to be very simple. No need to be concerned, however, If you ever decide to actually try this stuff - don't be an idiot! Make sure you try it on a hack, don't take my word for it.
You don't need to use their thinner to clean the airbrush.. its acrylic paint.. have a spray bottle of good ole water and spray that into the paint cup while holding the trigger down then just wipe out the cup with a paper towel or clean rag. Using thinners to clean an airbrush is how you destroy the o-rings.
I find hardware store lacquer thinner does the job quickly and quite efficiently. Notice I didn't wipe the model down, I did't do any special treatment of the paint, brush or anything.. And it went down silky smooth. Go to the end where I tried to pull the paint off with gorilla tape.. My point is that this paint will stick simply by adding future to it. Now if you want to jump through all those Mission Model hoops - go for it. But understand the point I have proven here, is that you don't have to do that.
I don't understand the question. I use lots of different paint in the course of building a model. Mission models paint works great for me, I just thin it with future and have zero problems. But it's not the only paint I use.
Would not consider MMP due to all mentioned Rain dancing and potion making procedure. But after looking at Frank's results will order a couple of bottles to try with some reputable clear. Perhaps even compare results with gloss SemiGloss and Flat clears.
It's not "garbage", it's poorly supported, and marketed. It's actually very good acrylic paint, but its still acrylic paint. It's overyped vallejo.. But the point of this video is how to make it more useful. I certainly use it, but where it makes sense to use it.
@@frankcrenshaw2880 Support or not the Vallejo works better in my opinion. I have tried it several time and completely dislike it. Took it off my shelf and either looking to sell it it give it away or trash it. The FS numbered paints are not even close to what they should be.
😊works about the same in my experience. But where I mostly use it is for figures and weathering. But I also use vallejo. To me they are basically the same thing. Colors aside, they function about the same. Unfortunately, mission models ownership is unwilling to hear this. This video got me banned from their facebook group! Truth is, if you thin it, it's better. Don't follow their guidance.. 😅
@@frankcrenshaw2880 Ill give it another shot but I know that I am building a F-4C Phantom and their FS paints are not even close to what they need to be. I need to add white to get them closer.
I found that thinning the white primer for a base coat. Followed the manufacturer's instructions and found that it turned out to be the consistency of pancake batter. I find Vallejo to be so much easier to use.
