Mixing resin to cast the perfect lure 

You bet

Thanks man

You got it....thanks for watching

Great to hear...Thanks for watching.

Thanks you.

Awesome, thank you!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Sure. Send them to EngineeredAngler@gmail.com

Heck yeah I will do that. Thank you for replying!!! I watch your videos a lot, and you give a ton of great info. Thanks again

@@fish2much12 I make a ton of musky size glidebaits. One thing I've learned is that the farther apart you position the weights, the wider the swimming action.

That sounds like fun

Thanks. ..happy new year

I'm using a two part casting resin that is harder than the others I have tried it's made by Specialty Resins. It's 65d and that's pretty hard if you're using 80d resin that should be as good as your going to get. The problem with casting super hard resin plastic Is that if you add microballoons you defeat the hardness. If you don't add the micro loans then you just have a block of plastic with hooks in it very difficult to control the action. I would recommend 65d hardness and let the tooth marks be trophies. Best of luck

@@EngineeredAngler thanks very much for the reply i will used AlumiFoam with is hard 20 lb i have not idea if is harder as d80 but i think yes i see the smash with a hammer and nothing happens thanks again i will text you if you want to know how is the foam THANKS AGAIN

If you made the mold from a lure with a lexan bib then the bib is too thin. I would just buy some lexan bibs and insert them in the mold and pour the lure around them. Best of luck.

Most two-part epoxy have the same density for part A and Part B but on occasion you'll find that they don't. Usually when the manufacturer tells you to mix them by volume there's some difference in the density of the 2 parts. But it's easy enough to figure it out just squeeze a little into a graduated measuring cup and weigh the cup, note the volume in the cup. Do the same thing with both parts using the same volume in a cup . If you see a different then you can just calculate the percent difference and use that for calculating the weight of the two parts next time you mix. ... Maybe I should make a short Pro tip video on this.

It is not likely moisture. I find that it is usually a mechanical issue, not enough vents in the top of your mold or the sprue in a less than optimal location. Put more vents in your mold...it will likely take care of it. Good luck.

If you make your lures on a 3-D printer the density of the plastic will be very different from the resin I show in the video. You will have to experiment to see if you can get the lure to work with or without added weight.

Aloha, thank you for watching and for your question. I have a system where I attach the weight to my internal wire harness, the location is critical because my design usually needs to follow some balance that I've decided for it. You should check out my lure design and build from scratch videos it will walk you through the entire process. Thanks again

Engineered Angler Thank you! I gone ahead and poured some anyway with %8 MB and took it for a swim, came out perfect and just what I was looking for just from the weight of hooks. For reference if other builders are curious. Took 2lbs of Alumilite High Strength 3 for a 2”1 /4”x2”1/4” x 9” rectangle mold box. For a 7.5” Stickbait. While casting with Alumilite White found that 67g is the lowest an least resin to pour and 90g is the max the rest starts to overflow with 8% Micro Balloons. Mahalos for sharing your knowledge 🤙🏼 tightlines!

gotta love it when that happens...cheers

It's not difficult to make a hollow in your lure that is cast from two-part resin. Simply create a chamber from a lightweight material like a plastic straw and seal the ends. A better method is to use a lower the density of the casting material. That can be done by adding glass spheres to you're resin mix. Watch this video for mixing ratio. And Goodluck, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eqJIyzeJkVU.html

@@EngineeredAngler thank you . I appreciate the fast response

I'm using the casting resin from Specialty Resins. Check it out in my Amazon Store

I don't use a pressure chamber unless I'm casting a clear casting. My concerns with bubbles are mostly avoiding any on the surface. For topwater lures I like a density of around 0.8g/cm³ or less. The two resin/microballoon mixes that I use give 0.65 and 0.78 g/cm³ respectively. Those two desities allow for just about any lure design.

First, thank you for watching and asking good questions. I have used the micro-balloons from 3 different suppliers and have found no differences. The specific gravity of epoxy resins are all very similar, 1.1 to 1.2, therefor you should not need to worry about the difference. For almost all lures filling the mold from the top will work best. But as a lure designer you should always consider the fact that the lure will be less dense near the fill hole and use that fact as part of your design. So a popper with a very thin tail might work best if the tail floats more. Therefor filling from the tail end could be the best method. Good luck.

Hi, you're welcome, and thank you again for your video,help and informations ! Happy to heard that you tried 3 different suppliers and no differences, it make the things more simple. I ordered mine on "Bricoleurre", and they said that their density is equal to 0.25... and after some search on the internet etc I discover that some local shop for carving, surf, boat,etc finally sell Microballon from Sicomin (d= 210 to 250g/Ltrs... I bought one to try) and an other brand I can't remember (they said no at the start of my search because I asked them about "light charge" based on the name they use on Bricoleurres), they also sell epoxy and Polyurethane for lures (what I bought first with them... and then decided to order Microballon, thinking that no one sell that here) , but they didn't knew that we can use them for lures lol I didn't think about the fact that fill popper by the tail would make it more stable, well spotted ! thank you for that ! I would like to make a kind of insert of Microballons, and cover this insert with aluminium/abalone foil, then put the insert in the final mold and fill with the epoxy with some pigment for the colors, the idea is that the colors will be always here, no need some paintjob,etc..., for weighting, I hesitate between put it in the mold with the insert or proceed same way of wooden lures and drilling hole, put lead then adjust... it could be interesting in my opinion, but it will be a lots of trial and error I think, as lot of people say when making lures and as with most things. One more time, thank you very much for all ! Keep up the good work Cheers !

I have no idea what the ratio of density between micro balloons and sawdust might be. But just go for it. Don't try to save the resin it will only go bad with time. I would start with the assumption that the densities are close and use my ratio as a starting point. I'm rooting for you!

@@EngineeredAngler Thank you for the reply and advice.

I prefer the fast cure because it reduces the probability of the resin leaking out and, of course, to make more lures faster. I definitely prefer the epoxy resin...

Thanks so much, here in Thailand is not as over there in USA, I can't find all the products that you easy buy in shops or even online, I already explained why. Here I can't find poliuretanic resin but you said that epoxy is better, at list you prefere, more important and unfortunately, I can't find fast curing epoxy so I have to make work the materials that I have. Thanks so much for your help, I'm watching all your videos an thanks so much, your dedication is remarcable!

I'm editing a video that goes into that subject a bit. It will be available Friday.

@@EngineeredAngler ok great, alert button clicked!

With a topwater lure that you're adding hardware to (propellers) go with the 10% mix.

The only thing I can think of is that the resin you have is no good. Alumilite makes a good product but it is possible you got a bad batch.

@@EngineeredAngler thanks a lot, I will contact provider. Reading your adviceJust noticed the B bottle have a lot of material at the bottom, that cant be dissolved, shaked a lot, and dont disolve. Label in the box is 2019.. Thanks a lot 👍👍

I do the density test on this video...check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j5p9vBS8BgE.html

No, if you want clear casting resin it is available. The curing time is substantially slower.

No..I make a point of keeping my mix constant so that the amount of weight is more predictable. Then I just adjust the weight for the rate of sink I want on the lure. The only exception is for topwater I use an 8% mix.

3mm is a safe thickness for almost any resin mix.

@@EngineeredAngler Thanks!

Poorly mixed, or a bad batch of resin.

If you're just planning to use it for fast jigging or twitching, 8% will work perfect. But if you expect it to swim or some other controlled movement then 10% allows for a little better chance to control the buoyancy and attitude of the body in the water. Hope that makes sense.

Engineered Angler awesome thank you for helping out all of us newbies!

You are absolutely on the right track. A swimbait needs to have a strong static equilibrium between floatation and weight. My 10% mix is just slightly less dense that maple (about 15% less) and I never had any issues with strength. I highly recommend you switch to mixing by weight it is much more accurate and repeatable. Measuring the volume of something like micro-balloons is a bit of a guessing game. Also the placement of the tie-on eye is crucial to keeping it from blowing out. Good luck.

@@EngineeredAngler thank you! I can always count on you to reply.

I must also add that I plan on making larger topwater baits that have a wide gliding action. Is it possible to weight that solely with microspheres?

Okay, last question first, no unfortunately you cannot use only Spheres for weight and balance. The irony is that you need to add the glass spheres in excess so that you can then use weight to balance the buoyant force with the sinking force. If you don't do it this. way you will end up with a lure that is unbalanced and unlikely to work correctly. The reason I use a less buoyant mix for topwater is that top water does not need as much top to bottom balancing since they are on top of the water not in the water. Crankbaits and twitch baits need to have strong opposing forces to keep them vertical in the water column and that's why I use a more buoyant mix for those types of lures.

@@EngineeredAngler Gotchya, that makes sense, thank you so much!

Not that I know of...sorry.

Thank you 👍

@@EngineeredAngler 7:07 How about wood flour?

The micro-balloons are all the same but, the percent you add can change depending on how you want it to affect your lure. I usually add a little less for topwater lures. But I stick to my 10% rule for all others so 15gA + 15gB +3.0g micro.

@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the reply. I've already done some tests, and I'm going to do some more! I am afraid that my handmade lures could break in bending or twisting.

Yes...but you need to be sure you have enough buoyancy so the lure suspends upright...

Yes I see your math is correct and it's my poor description that makes it look like I flubbed up the numbers. When I call it a 10% mix I do not mean it is 10% of the total mix. Just that you calculate 10% of the weight of A and B combined and that would be the weight of the added micro balloons. This seems to me to be the most direct way for most folks to calculate their mix proportions. Otherwise the calculations gets a bit cumbersome for the average person. for instance, using my method if you miss pour part A and correct by matching it with part B you simply take the total weight and multiply it by 0.1 and you still get the correct proportion for the micro balloons. Hope that makes sense.

Sorry for the long delay on the reply... The best method depends on the material you're using but, best techniques will start with: 1) not producing bubbles when you mix, gentle mixing, 2) If your material allows you the time, you can vacuum out the bubbles in a vacuum chamber before you pour, 3) Removing as many bubbles while pouring the mold by pouring in a thin steam. 4) Again if you have the time before the material sets you can put the mold in a pressure chamber (pressure pot) this reduces the size of the bubbles. Without knowing the material you are using for you casting its difficult to say what combination of the methods would be best.

Well you're in luck...I have also done some boat design, way back. It's a very simple equation to solve for buoyancy. Since water weighs 62.4 lbs / cubic foot, just divide 700/62.4 =11.22 cubic feet. That would be the volume you would need at the water line, with the boat drawing 2 inches (0.167 foot). You would then have to figure the dimensions of a boat at the water line and multiply length X beam X depth to get at least 11.22 cubic feet. for example; 12.5 X 5.5 X .167 = 11.48 cubic feet. Remember that the 700lbs must include total weight boat+motor+people+gear+etc. Stability is a much more complicated calculation but I would stick to a wide flat boat. Good luck,

@@EngineeredAngler again,, thanks!

@@EngineeredAngler would the material the boat is made with affect anything?

It would only affect the weight and maybe the center of gravity...the calculations for displacement would remain the same.

Look up the specific gravity of the resin. Or you can use 1.12 g/ml that is a good number to get you really close.

@@EngineeredAngler thank you. I really enjoy your approach to lure making

The weight I add is dependent on the lure and how I want it to behave. There's no fixed ratio...it would be nice if it were that easy.

You must use more micro balloons

Calculating the volume that you'll need to cast your lure is a lot easier if you've already have the density of the resin mix. If you've watched my videos on casting lures you will have seen how I poor a test sample of my resin and then calculate the density. You should also have the volume of your lure. Of course if you have neither one you will have to do the whole process by trial and error. For a lure the size you're describing I would start with 10 grams of part a 10 grams of Part B and 2 grams of microballoons. Good luck.

@@EngineeredAngler thank you so much

Microbaloons will just make the resin more buoyant.

Oh man...I know the frustration. I had the same issue with the specialty resin. I bought the black quick setting resin and it did the same things to me. I tried everything and the only thing that helped was baking the lures at about 150 F for at least an hour. Then wipe down with acetone and prime it. In the end I switched to the Alumilite resin...more expensive... never had the problem again. About three months ago I decided to give Specialty resin another try and I bought the white quick set resin...no issues with it so far.

Engineered Angler thank you so much. I did what you said and it works. Thank you

You can make between 60 and 70 average size lures from the 16 Oz each of A and B. That's using my 10% by mass glass sphere mix.

@@EngineeredAngler wow, that's pretty darn good. I was thinking about trying the Smooth-On Featherlite, as it's bouyant as is. Will be fun to have lures done and ready to paint so much faster.

Specialty resins is the manufacturer, and I'm using their MODEL PRO OFF WHITE I usually only get the small bottles.

Engineered Angler thank you! You inspired me to make my own baits. Going for a topwater (walking through the dog)

Yes I use microballoons on nearly all lure castings.

Sorry I need to know if micro balloon come in different colors or all white color ? It come in clear ?

I have only seen micro balloons in white but if you want to color your resin, there is a resin dye you can use. here's a link www.amazon.com/s?k=alumilite+dye&crid=17OAOMVO49K4H&sprefix=alumilite+d%2Caps%2C289&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_11

@@EngineeredAngler thanks alot

I have never seen clear microballoons. ...

The mix designs I offer in the video should be all you ever need for lure making. 20% will create a very week resin, but if that's ok, you can try. Good luck.

@@EngineeredAngler I want to get my lure under an oz. while keeping the same form factor. I’m injecting it into a 3D printed lure so that may work. I’ll test it and find out.

I like to let it cure for a couple of day minimum.

Yup...as long as you have the density of the material, wood, resin, whatever you made the original from, you can just weigh it and divide the weight into the density and you get the volume of the lure....

@@EngineeredAnglerhow the heck do you figure out the density?? one of my lure styles is made out of cedar, the other is ash. I weighed them and weighed out the same in casting, ended up not having enough, but was actually close. another big oops I did, was being too anxious. wanted to get a second mold made quick so I could do two lures at the same time. real excited to open the mold and see how it turned out, making it. it turned out great, until I noticed that something seemed to be missing......the keys!!!! totally was in a rush and forgot to make keys for alignment. it still works, but I just have to be real careful when fastening them together that they are lined up really well. helps that there are brick-formation lines all over the mold from the lego, so I use them to be sure it's pretty close.

I take a small piece from the wood I'm going to use, measure the volume and weight and then I just write it down. wood density can change from piece to piece so I err on the side of a little more resin.

Sure, check out my videos....

Send me some photos...engineeredangler@gmail.com. And explain how it is unstable.

I sure will!! THANK YOU!

Specialty Resins casting resin: specialtyresin.com/product/model-pro-white/

@@EngineeredAngler Thank you!!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏

If you're using screw in eyes then yes...high microsphere % can make the resin easy the deform so screw eyes can work loose. Use a harness and you'll be fine.

@@EngineeredAngler your thoughts on the ping pong ball adding buoyancy?

@@EngineeredAngler and to add, I am using 2 to 3 coats of east coast resin top coat as well

Wow...that must be a big bait. A ping pong ball is an excellent idea if you can keep it high in the lure for vertical stability (if that matters for the design.)

@@EngineeredAngler 97 grams total resin, it’s a two part top water bait. I did pour a couple with mini ping pong balls suspended on wire frames ( I have a brass tube running in rear piece I used) I added bb’s to also create rattle, it reduced weight by 1/2 oz. still waiting to test as I am trying to base coat over the resin bait with east coast epoxy but having issues with it not setting right. Not sure if it simply doesn’t like being on resin bait or what but it’s being a pain even though I’ve used it as a top coat several times. I want the paint to be smooth so that’s who I’m base coating with east coast but I may have to re think what I use there. Do you recommend anything to coat raw resin to create a super smooth surface to paint over??

I use Alumilite microballoons

Thank you so much sir ! And thank you for all the information you put out 🙏🏽

Do you mean as a casting resin? If so, yes you can. I use 2-part polyurethane resin for all my castings.

That's true, part A and part B can have different densities. I cover that in another video where find the weight ratio between them and use that to mix by weight very accurately.

@@EngineeredAngler just started watching your videos , i've seen a bunch already , enough that the dream of making a new creek chub darter seems a reality already .

Casting resin.

@@EngineeredAngler Thanks

Can i use Table top resin and Art resin

I will demold a lure as soon as it is hard enough to do so. But I will allow it to cure for several days before beginning painting and final finishing. If I'm in a hurry I will bake the lures in an oven at about a hundred and seventy degrees Fahrenheit for about an hour to accelerate the Cure time.

Thanks for the help

Yes...it's a bit Counter intuitive. The thing is I need more buoyancy for lures that I want to sink so that I can use that buoyancy to stabilize the lure body. Topwater lures just need to float. But you can just use the 10% mix for everything.

@@EngineeredAngler you are the best technical guy doing this stuff!!! Thanks for the quick reply. I love your content 🙌🤙👌

Paul Sturgill if you are trying to budget to get started in lure making., I would budget a couple hundred dollars for all the material. that should get you through your first few batches of lures. As far as a cost per lure in materials, that varies so much that I hesitate to give you a number. if you're trying to figure out if you can make a profit selling them, keep in mind that your biggest investment will be your time. good luck

Everything they promote as materials for lure making can be made yourself out of simple kitchen supplies. And molding materials also.

Paul Sturgill last time I calculated, it came out to somewhere between 45 ad 60 cents for an average size lure (2.5 -4.5 inches) but you can definitely increase the cost with fancy finishes.

hummm...there's sound when I played it....

I got sound as well

plenty of sound here too.

Sorry I gave that impression. For top water I actually use 8%. But sometimes having a single formula simplifies things. the irony is that you actually need a more buoyant formula for lures you want to be subsurface and less buoyant formulas for topwater.

@@EngineeredAngler agree for sure. I've learned that the hard way :)