Huge thanks Jay and FCP Euro! You gave me the information and confidence I needed to complete a timing service on my 20th AE. A few things for other viewers... - 19mm on the crank bolt instead of 21mm - I replaced my motor mount, serpentine belt, thermostat, and housing (170k on the original parts) - The Motor Mount Bracket is a pain to get in and out. Be patient and adjust the height of the engine up and down to squeak it by. - The Hydraulic Tensioner also is a pain to install. Again, breath and be patient - The timing belt covers are surprisingly difficult to reinstall as well.
Just did that and it’s a pain but not hard. Solved a lot of leaking oil in my case - I’d wager because no one bothers replacing it because it’s annoying to get in and out. Cheers!
On a four stroke engine, then engine needs to be rotated 4 times to make the marks line up again. 4 turns of the crank equals 1 full revolution of the engine.
Just finished this install on my car - this video was very, very helpful, so thank you FCP team! Few things from my install: - My crank bolt was a 19mm 12-point socket, not a 21mm, so appears this bolt size may vary between the 1.8T's. Just a heads up for anyone else tackling this job. My car was an '05 GTI w/ engine code AWP, not sure that matters, but noting it. - The crank pulley bolts were also a 6mm allen, so different than noted in the vid. - For removing the engine mount bracket, I could not for the life of my get it removed or installed from the top of the car, ended up dropping it down and re-installing from underneath. Hope this may help others in the future!
You guys have been incredibly helpful and exactly what I’ve needed! I recently bought a MkIV Golf and have been learning to do a lot of maintenance myself, and I couldn’t do it without you guys
Kinda late but the marks will deviate from what was marked on the belt as the motor runs. Every certain number of rotations ( I can’t remember exactly how many it is) the marks will line up again.
the 1.8 engines suck if your belt snaps while driving because you are screwed because of it being an interference engine,the 2.0 thou is a non interference so youre not screwed if your belt snaps whole driving
Just one note, on the accessory belt tensioner, when you're reinstalling the belt, you can slide a pin in that to hold it open while you're installing the new belt and aligning it, so you're not sitting there trying to hold tension on it with a tool while trying to work with the belt at the same time. Excellent video. Thanks!
Why in the world didn't the Strudel-Eating Ckskrs use a timing chain instead of a cheesy belt? They used a chain to couple the two overhead camshafts on the other end of the engine. German-Engineering....No wonder they lost the friggin war.
Hey there FCP EURO im gonna be doing the water pump an timing chain on my mk4 gli. This is the very first time ill be doing a timing chain. I seen that the belt moved over a couple groves from the white marks. Why did they moved?
@@CjMk4GLi you'll see what I mean when you do it. I've messed up by not marking bottom belt on the pulley. Now I can't figure out the correct tension. Argh
Really great video. Looking to replace the timing belt on my '99 A3 this weekend. Is there anything that differs? I know that the Golf and A3 are really similar.
I just about finished up my timing belt replacement. DO NOT try to take the engine mount bracket out from the top. If you take the rubber hose off from the back side of the engine with the aluminum flat pipe, the bracket practically falls out the bottom. WAY easier!
32:12 the white marks come out of alignment when you spin the engine 2 times. I'm new and don't understand and I would panic at this point. Do the white marks come out of alignment at this point?
This video was a trip down memory lane. I remember replacing the timing belt on my Mk4 GTI and Beetle back in the day. Good times. Very informative video as always FCP Euro - thanks!
The marks on the belt will no longer line up after 2 revolutions, they're mostly just there as a backup for belt installation. The main thing is the factory timing marks line up.
Thank you for this video, it was priceless while we replaced the water pump on my son's 2004 1.8L GTI. We watched other videos, but found this one to be the most informative. As new VW owners, we had never heard of FCP Euro, so this was a nice discovery for us also. We saved a ton of money on parts vs the local auto parts store - who never has anything in stock and has to special order everything we need anyway, and then charge us more. In the video, the pump that Jay removes looks brand new. In our case the impeller was in pieces and we could have used some advice on what to do in that case - with plastic bits circulating in your engine - in the end, we just re-assembled and are hoping for the best. Would love to see a camera view of a look inside the block. If not a probe snaking into the engine:o) then just a glimpse inside. For example, when you remove the pump, you can see the thermostat just inside. I'm wondering if there's anything worth noting when you look at that. Also, we struggled a bit when trying to get the plastic timing belt cover back on. I get a kick out of the other videos that just end with "now just reassemble everything in the reverse order". Not the case here - we could have used a separate video on just how to re-install a timing cover. Also, the lower timing belt cover had been bent at some point so we struggled a bit trying to re-install that (though not sure any video would help solve stupid). We appreciated the rest of the step-by-step reassembly instructions that Jay provided, complete with torque specs.
Good video. I hope you make more videos on mk4s because there are a heck lot of these cars still out there. We're sick of getting ripped off at mechanic shops so rather do it myself. More on the mk4s 👍
This video saved my Jetta. I had a Magic Man help me wiggle the engine mount out through the back of the engine and out the underside, otherwise the son and I would still be out in the shop cussing up a storm and throwing things. LoL Definitely would like to see just how you got that thing out passed the AC lines.
Hi 👋 changed the Timing belt on a golf 2003 about 4 years ago using a genuine vw kit my question is the car as only none about 2000 miles since the change it’s been off the rd due to the pandemic even thou it’s not done the mileage would it be wise to still change the belt and water pump also the water pump was also changed 4 years ago vw recommend 4 years or mileage regardless the belt still looks new but I’m not sure what to do
Kinda late but the marks will deviate from what was marked on the belt as the motor runs. Every certain number of rotations ( I can’t remember exactly how many it is) the marks will line up again.
@@gagevanhemert7193 haha I’m actually in the process of tearing everything down to do timing/water pump as well. Gave the video a watch as a refresher, this fucking motor mount bracket will be the death of me.
@@gagevanhemert7193 I spent probably 45 minutes trying to finagle it out. I gave up and am just going to try and work around it because I cannot manage to get it out lmao. Plus I feel like it’ll be even worse trying to get it back in so hopefully it works out. Parts should be delivered tomorrow so we’ll see haha.
I have a Mk1 Skoda Octavia VRS, which is essentially a MkIV Golf GTI in a pretty dress, and i need to do the cambelt on its 1.8t. Super clear video! Thanks!
it's to make it easier to get the new belt in the right spot. it is kind of a pain in the ass if you don't because you don't know if it is a tooth off because of the slack while putting it on
Excellent video tutorial, Jay. Plan to use your video as a guide when I replace the belts & coolant pump on my Mk4 Jetta (2.0L, AVH engine) tomorrow. I noticed that you torque the 18mm engine mount bolt to 100 Nm -- much higher than the 60 Nm specd in the repair manual. Is the 100 Nm an updated spec or an error?
Just a guess: the difference may be to compensate for the "plus 1/4 turn" specd in the repair manual? [16mm bolt spec in the manual is 40 Nm "plus 1/4 turn"]
I cannot get the engine bracket out no matter where I move the engine. I could maybe detach the other side but for now I will attempt to just work around it. 🤷♂️
Hey can you do a video on timing belt, tensioners, water pump on a 2015 jetta tdi? Id love to buy your kit and do it myself but I need a video to follow along because I’ve never done it before
This is great. I've done this job several times on a few 1.8Ts and still picked up a few new things. The metal vs. plastic pump is still a big debate in the Mk4 world, with some pretty knowledgeable people insisting the plastic is better (something about the metal reacting with the coolant). Any thoughts on the debate?
Metal is better hands down. Who cares if the metal reacts with the coolant? Better than having rogue plastic pieces swimming through the cooling system!
@@adamkorekach9936 - Exactly what we just experienced! When we pulled the pump we found two halves of the plastic impeller lying just inside the block, but when we put the halves together, it was clear that two small pieces were missing, one maybe as large as 1cm squared. No idea where it is, but clearly large enough to block a hose somewhere. All we can do is hope it wasn't one large piece, but a few smaller ones.
