Modding an Ender 3 S1 With The Modder Board 

He literally exploded in someone's face at ERRF. Fortunately noone was hurt. We will rebuild him, stronger than before.

Thank you Wilbert, you're my favorite customer! Next version (that is hopefully shipping in late November) will have some nice improvements.

I have uploaded all of the files on Patreon. Most of the files are free public files. f3d files are available for Patrons if you want to edit them in Fusion 360. www.patreon.com/posts/simplified-fan-67965448?Link&

I have to design a new 5015 duct for the occasion. My first ones were functional, but not as optimized as I would like.

Thanks Derek, spread the word! I have a discord, that is a great place to post stuff (its in the video description)

🇬🇧 Your lucky I had mine cancelled.

I apologize Fred. When I realized there were a couple of things I needed to change for international regulations I figured the best thing to do was to refund orders until I have a definite shipping date. The good news is that my first lead-free boards should be here in about 2 weeks. I will send out an email to all people that had their orders cancelled to get dibs on the first batch. Thanks for your support!

Nice!

Just installed mine on my S1 plus, however it doesnt have anything to trigger the x Endstop. What was your fix for this?

Nice, if you head over to the discord you can get some tips on installation and ideas for upgrades

@@NathanBuildsRobots ill be using mynfactory fan untill i figure out an upgrade

I have the biqu one to test. Only thing I don’t like about it is 2 McUs makes it potentially 2X as expensive to troubleshoot and fix. With my current setup, the modder board is bulletproof and the Mainboard is the only thing that ever needs to be replaced. But year, CAN definitely is the cleanest/most capable of all setups and I’d love to tackle that when I have the time.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm going to try the BIQU 36 once I print out 2 sherpas and get them built. Having an IDEX there is a ton of wires I'd love to get rid of. Another plus with the BIQU is you can get the model with PT100/1000 support. I have an Octpus but cheaped out and didn't nuy the Pro so no PT100 support.

Yes. The mainboard situation is truly scuffed. You can actually install the modder board in the base of the printer, then run a traditional harness out to the hotend.

Soon!

@@NathanBuildsRobots You are doing the Lord's work.

Plus 1

I will start accepting international pre-orders when I have my lead-free suppliers set up. I think it will be about 3 weeks before I can start shipping orders. I will be making another announcement video for that, so make sure to TuRn On NoTiFiCaTioNs aNd RiNg ThE BelLllll!!!

@@NathanBuildsRobots i will thank you

I want to, going to work my way up to it! I've got some great ideas for thermal management and modular construction that I have not seen in the market yet.

I wired up a 2 watt 220 ohm resistor in series. I just cut out a segment of wire and replace it with a resistor. 12v fans are a pain, and I was hoping to find a suitable 24v replacement, but nobody does quiet fans quite like Noctua.

Yes, you can run 2 12v fans in series on a 24v pin. If you are placing a new order, you'll get the new board, which has a spot for a current limiting resistor built into the hotend heatsink fan connector.

No, sorry I do not. It’s not too difficult though

Tracking shows it is in London now. You should have got an email with tracking information, if you didn't get one, send me an email and I will get that to your.

I couldn't find a source for them. I spent days combing the internet, aliexpress, Amazon, Digikey and Google, spent hundreds buying a bunch of different connectors, and the only thing that fit was the 2mm pitch pin header. However, a few weeks ago I finally found the right connectors and the next version of the board will have them. So of my current preorders and any new orders from now on will use the same style used by Creality on the original board, so box and locking arms. I tested the first prototype board this week and it was a perfect fit, so big batch is coming and will be all good, with some bonus features I stuck on there.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Awesome news! Thanks for the update!

Do you have an order # ? I don’t think your order went through. Shopify sends email confirmation as soon as the order is placed.

What region are you located in? I'm talking to some distributors and it would be got to know

@@NathanBuildsRobots i'm located in Germany , Bavaria

same problem here (UK) which stopped me from buying one also UPS SUCKS outside of the US. Used to live in Canada and had nothing but problems with them

I have uploaded all of the files on Patreon. Most of the files are free public files. f3d files are available for Patrons if you want to edit them in Fusion 360. www.patreon.com/posts/simplified-fan-67965448?Link&

You can solder that board in place to activate HF2 port. That will allow you to plug in a 12v 40mm nocturnal fan, which is a common modification that people do to run silently

@Russell Phelan that was an option I mentioned, I would prefer a thicker wire guage when upgrading to 24v in saying so I haven't done the calculations so the existing wires might make the cut

@Russell Phelan oh hang on I see now I said adapter plug, I like the idea of breaking out don't get me wrong. I meant that the breakout was less finesse. For myself I could have this running with what I have on hand making an adapter quicker and just as easily. The breakout is neat and simple for people without the tools and parts

Try the discord, we’ll be able to answer questions faster and people may have better solutions than the ones I made. These are the first models I made for it: www.patreon.com/posts/73279312?

Also, sorry about the postal service strikes in your country. Everyone’s orders made it that I know of, but it took a while!

I need to see how things are wired on the motherboard side of things to verify, but on the breakout board side it looks like the heater cartridge is hooked up to 4 wires for + and 4 wires for -

@@NathanBuildsRobots I bought the Sprite pro conversion for my V2 and they breakout all the ribbon wires to compatible JST connectrs for the 4.2.2 & 4.2.7 motherboards. I was surprised that it only used 2 wires for each leg of the heater. I didn't measure the voltage drop but I suspect it's high. Anyway it does work but I noticed the PID even optimized is more unstable than my original V2 extruder. I'm assuming it's the same on the S1..... Like your Mod board idea!

@@bobwtech I just did the Sprite conversion on an Ender 2 Pro. That conversion cable is seriously messed up. Especially the 2 unlabeled connectors that are basically motherboard wrecking devices. I point out some really dangerous elements on it. Video should be up in a couple of days.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Well, where is that video? I just did an sprite pro upgrade on my V2. how is it different than a S1 wire harness? im getting your board BTW. It will work on my rig, correct? E3v2 with sprite pro.

It converts based on your detected region. I’m in the US, shipping to Canada is a bit crazy dispute being so close.

Just makes it easier to plug in aftermarket fans, extruders, and hot ends. Basically a board for people who like to mod their printers. No need to get this unless you are planning on doing other upgrades on top of it.

The most common issue is the fans being wired up reverse to how they are on the board. Check the back of the board: the + and - pins are labeled. Also feel free to ask for help on Discord - Lots of people online to help

@@NathanBuildsRobots I've got 3 different fans all wired same, none work out of the box. Is it you or them?

Look up “modder board” on printables. Some printable cable guides should pop up

3-pin is actually really good, you will just have to splice it or install as shown in my other video.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yiKxLbfClMg.htmlm28s You can see it's kind of wedged on there with the connector taken off.

Awesome ty for helping so fast!!!

I have a solution coming!

I’m working on that. The easiest way is to plug it into the hotend fan port and make sure you’re using an led that can run at 24V or use the appropriate current limiting resistor to limit the current

@@NathanBuildsRobots perfect thanks

Sample calculation time: Get an LED that runs on 40 mA and 4V Solve the equation: V=IR (24-4)=(0.040)*R R=20/0.040 R=500 So you would solder a 500 ohm resistor into the spot for a resistor, then plug the LED into the HF2 port (which connects uses that resistor in series to limit the current to that port) When you run the printer, the LED will light up whenever your part cooling fan is running (pretty much whenever the hotend is on) I would reccomend joining the discord, people like myself can help you through the process of selecting components and wiring it up

I'm working on the next batch of production. Shipping to Indonesia will be tough, but I'll look at my options.

@@NathanBuildsRobots count me in on next batch, with option shipping outside US (Indonesia). i am really wants to have this.

I would join the discord and post aout it there, would be easier to help you. But the Mosfet is a large square with 3 wires coming off of it, its hard to miss! The qustion is, is the MOSFET bad, or is the signal leading to the MOSFET bad?

@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah thanks! mosfet has current but only 3V. So where should i check for signal? Ribbon cable from screen?

It's a replacement for the stock extruder pcb to make modding easier. With it you can add/switch fans etc easy.

Yes, I've thought about doing that. I put one on one of the extra heater ports and it kept flashing on and off. But on one of the fan ports it would do wonders. Just make sure it doesn't draw too much current and that the voltage is correct.

@@NathanBuildsRobots perfect guess I know what my next purchase is!

I'm using every port except for the 2nd part cooling fan on the microswiss NG build. I am thinking about designing another batch of fan ducts that are more optimized and with dual fan options

Yup, should be

@@NathanBuildsRobots okay i may get one for my birthday

@@NathanBuildsRobots btw im talking about creality sprite extruder pro so if im right the cable would be compatible

The 24 pin ribbon cable is the same either way. The spare cables I have bought are about 150cm long

It doesn’t need a support since the new clip retains the cable. If you want something to support the cable you can find one on printables, just look up Nbr modder board on printables

Will be making an international edition next, should be up for sale soon

lol sorry . I have been having good luck with them. I had a few pull out at first, but I started giving them a little extra squeeze after they bottom out and they have been holding well. There are also WAGO inline connectors, I'll buy some and see how those work.

I should have my first lead-free boards in 2 weeks, then I can start filling international orders. I'll post another announcement video when they are ready!

In conclusion, I now have the modder board which has been incredibly useful for me making upgrades to my cooling system etc. But E3D have now released a nozzle which is compatible with the stock sprite extruder anyway which I'm also now using. All in all very happy with this board. 🥳

Interesting! Yeah that is fine if you don't plan on using that port. Are you going to desolder it? That would give you the best results. Just pulling it off is hit or miss as it can peel some of the traces back when you pull it off.

@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply. Yes I will try to desolder it.