Mold making for Gunpla part 1 : Flat Molds in Silicone 

I have done this with success a few times like RG astrsy Katana blade right on the sprue, but a good two part wall up is best for weapons going to get around to that soon when i get sone water clay.

@@HAFGunpla yeah that would be the best option for it - i haven't tried a 2 part mold yet. only one part molds and flat base.

thank you.

glade I could open some doors, im going to update the video and add some more mold videos that focus better, still figuring out how best to film them. ill throw some AOZ parts in the video cus they are so cool.

what a wonderful world that would be.

Glad it was helpful!

Hey hey 🙌😊 🤘🏻🔥🔥🤘🏻

start saving up those extra parts and get a small flat mold going👍🏻.

🤩😆

I wish i knew how to formulate silicone, but i could do price vs quality video, varies wildly depending on location and availability of silicone. 👍🏻

Yes you could, mold on the sprues and cast them in any color definitely, but fit could be difficult if the resin shrinks to much would have to just glue in place.

yes

@@HAFGunpla Maybe you can help me out. Two of the fins from my MG Wing Gundam Proto Zero kit broke and while I did mend it using spruce goo and Mr. Cement, I wanna make a replica of the part. My first attempt wasn't successful and ended up breaking the two pieces off from the rest of the part again. I'm gonna try again; but which method would be best? Use some clay to reinforce the two parts so that they won't break when demolding the part from the silicone or after pouring the silicone into the tray, place the piece upside down, to cast it that way. Any help or tips to make this successful would be greatly appreciated.

you can certainly try might have fitting issues in the castings since the resin will shrink a bit but you can mold the parts sure.

Right on

If you can buy the silicone you can buy release spray

Definitely don’t use wd 40 too greasy but yea the release spray can be obtained where you purchase the silicone, could use dulling spray in a pinch but could do with out release on straight styrene it just makes demold a bit eaiser.

@@HAFGunpla Thanks. Never used this stuff before so I thought I'd ask.

I use vaseline, works great

Thank you 😊

wont carry the silicone at those types of stores, but look up smooth on brand company or reynolds advanced materials. Then if that not local enough search your area for Special effect supply stores selling mold making materials then if no other option amazon. think in a more recent mold making videos i talk more about the silicone check under my playlists .

@@HAFGunpla ok ty very much

i Still go for hot glue/cyno but wig tape can be a quicker alternative that sticks parts down nice but will have a litte extra surface to clean after casting, but I use it most to tack small parts for painting now, if I could find like a 2in wide roll would use it more.

Also just tested out some generic 2in wide two sided tape for carpet works really nice and thinner and cheaper than toupee tape

yes but would have air bubble issues would be better for walling up with clay and making a two part mold, but then if runner is large may have trouble closing and running with out hard jacket for support. I would recomend not molding entire runners and just pick the parts that are unique, or cut the runner down into manageable sections.

a entire runner for 1/144 is doable kinda HAF is correct your going to have to wall up key indentions vent/drains i use my vacuum oven vacuum out bubbles before pour and goes in vacuum after pour strategically placed drain makes sure every nook and cranny is filled 1/100 would split into 1/4 and PG 3 or parts at a time. You wanna do it right theres a whole process beginning with the mold building up sides making channels chamfer the edges where the 2 sides of mold meet mix your resinput under vacuum till no bubbles fill mold and put in a pressure vessel... yes you heard right under pressure makes even distribution and density its time consuming and a pain in the ass but you can make a copy for less then 20 buck s for MG. you can mix your own custom colors to. sell a few to your friends. lets take those older MG wing EW you could add surface detail very easy with scribing tape just think opposite...

Yes, only know “level enough”

@@HAFGunpla its a rick and morty reference.

O shit dawg, lol its been too long haha.

@@nameputhpong9041 he is familiar with the bubble..... dont even try

I dabble in precision

Depends on the area you are located, but in general it not going to be cheap cheap. Check out smoothon website and then check around to see if you have local SPFX suppliers to see what molding silicone they supply. I am located in Los Angeles so I live at the source.

@@HAFGunpla first, ty for the quick response, and 2nd I'm in Canada, but was just trying to get an idea of the cost to expect, and that way I can try to figure out how shipping is going to hit that cost. Ive tried a few methods, the one I've had the most success with is the Green Stuff reusable mold bars (hot water activated). But its really only useful for single parts.

Most likely its going to be expensive to ship especially now. But again its varies but could expect it in the hundreds usa

But thats if you get a large kit which will last a longish time, quart kits and sample kits are cheaper if you want to give the process a try. But in long run for me larger quantities end up being cheaper. But id start small and see if it works for you.

@@HAFGunpla I do have lots to do, but I also want to get a 3D printer, but its just deciding on the best bang for the buck, with some options for upgrading when needed. And the resin seems to be the route. This isn't for gundam though, I build military kits, mostly aircraft and armor and I need lots of equipment parts, and stowage items, also upgrades. I really, really appreciate your willingness to help, its not often found in the hobby, at least to this extent and with the knowledge you come with, so ty 😊

Yes indeed 👍🏻

Yes you can certainly mold them, but casting might be an issue as they are precision fit parts dealing with product shrinkage and elasticity, but i'll give it a go and see if i can make it work.thank you for the idea.

HAF Gunpla I’ve been searching for the idea but didn’t know where to start thank 👍🏼

Nearly anything from plaster stones to resin/epoxy to acrylic check out my mold video playlist i have a casting video included. Dealing with urethane resin

Yea its a bummer anywhere outside California:(. Sorry ☹️

@@HAFGunpla I saw a shop posting about Smooth-On products here but I think they stopped selling them. So I'm stuck with local silicon sellers, also have no way to degas my silicon. Well, I'm just starting things, maybe things will improve for me in time. Thanks for sharing your process! Made me want to mold some parts.

Well if you have a local silicone Tin based with long cure time you can avoid degassing, just pour it high above the part and most bubbles get broken along the narrow stream. Ill try and going into better videos but hard to decide whats worth it to people, hit me up on IG with your local brand snd ill see if its comparable and I can test down the road

@@HAFGunpla I'm in the Philippines actually so this may not be comparable to anything that you have there. It's not a 1:1 mixture as well - so that's one of the biggest problems I have. I still can't figure out how to mix it properly - the hardener is 1 to 3% the total volume per the instructions. I'm trying to do 2% to 2.5% but I think i have to be really careful and fast mixing it or else it's uneven and some places gets hard right away - can't pour thinly.

I really want to get my hands on some smooth on or something easier to mix. Maybe when I have the funds for it. The cost is a bit high too compared to the cost of living here.

Thank you the free RU-vid music library is surprisingly robust

yes it can be, but can also be as easy as glueing a part in a cup and filling with silicone.

I do this Warhammer models. It's tedious to make a mold initially but making parts after the mold is done is super easy. So let's say It takes 2 hours to set up a mold, 1 day for the mold to cure then another hour at most to clean and ready the mold. Then it's a repeatable 15min process to make make new parts and you can get dozens to hundreds of parts out of the mold. Considering a Games Workshop kit can be $30 to easily $100, it is a quick return on investment of your time to recast bits you need extra of.

Partially im sure but there final molds would be metal for injection casting.

Yes for personal use, not to sell.

you cant profit more then it takes to support your gunpla habit

我同意你的看法，现在很难改变。😿

Lol

No its is techniques for personal use not for resale. Its about nuiance.

Lol so dramatic.