Some tips: 1) Not sure why you're pegging the mic gain at 100%. Depending on the degree of background noise, you may get better results by playing louder with less mic gain. There is a sweet spot for both the volume and the mic gain. 2) The default Dirac curve appears to be boosting beyond the frequency extension limits of your speaker. In general, you should avoid that, since that will boost distortion and audibly detract from the sound. Just fine tune the curves and/or "curtains" to respect the speaker limits. 3) I found that fine tuning the target curves to my taste was a huge win over the default curve. That process of finding the right target curve goes a ton faster with 2 speakers. Once you find your favorite target curve, save it, do a final slow pass with all speakers, then load the best curve. 4) A huge problem with tuning the target curves is that your tonal perception continuously adapts over time, and not just a little! I found that to get good results, it was essential to take frequent breaks and do A/B tests between target curve candidates with fresh ears. This is the slowest part, but you will eventually zero in on what sounds best with fresh ears. The fresh ears preferences will be consistent. After 20 minutes, your perceptual adaptation fully kicks in, and your preferences will be horribly inconsistent. (It's similar to white balance on a screen. Your brain insists on continuously adjusting the frequency equalizer.) 5) Also pay attention to impulse response when tuning the Dirac filters. A clean impulse response will make the bass more impactful and articulate.
Thanks Rob. 1) I set the mic at 100% as that is what I was told works best and other Dirac tutorials on RU-vid suggest the same. 2) I mentioned in the video I would be adjusting the curtains and target curve in a future video. My understanding is you typically do not want Dirac trying to adjust more than 6dB for any frequency. 3) Thx on the tip with starting with 2 speakers. 4) Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of time left with the HTP-1 so I am limited to how much testing I can do with it.
@@Youthman 100% mic gain is fine to maximize SNR, unless you are having to turn the volume up past compression. At that point, it's better to turn down the mic gain. Not sure how loud you had to turn up the volume. I actually use earplugs or isolating earbuds/headphones during long calibration sessions to protect my ears. The 6db guide is good, with the exception of the speaker frequency extension limits. For those, you don't want to flatten the natural curve at all, because you will end up boosting a lot of distortion (which usually sounds bad) and sacrificing speaker headroom. Yeah, really fine tuning those target curves can be very time consuming, especially factoring in resting your ears. I think it's fun, but it annoyed the hell out of my wife. Also, turning off the AC in the summer gets hot!
I agree Travis. I’m really glad that Roy is working directly with JEM to make sure the older heritage remain as close to the originals as possible. The new capacitors arrived today so my dad and I will be installing them later this week
You don’t know what you’re missing with those low quality stock crossovers. Why wouldn’t someone want to make their speakers better and all they can be? Oh well, to each their own. Lol
“Better” is an opinion. I had a well known crossover guy “upgrade” the networks in my previous RF7 II. They weren’t an upgrade to me as they trimmed a lot off of the top end. To each his own.
Youthman, ah ok, now I understand. Knowing what sound you are after and what type of crossover and components will give it to you is very important. Research is king. Good luck with the new caps.
Thanks. I was going to use my daughters MacBook Air but she does not have an HDMI output for REW. I guess I could use it for running Dirac. Wonder if I could use QuickTime to record my screen?
Is it normal that with Bass Control the target curve looks different after calculation process? It confuses me😂 should i load the target curves again after Bass Control was calculated?
Hello Youthman! I think the problem with the gain is that it uses a bandwith limited pink noise to set the levels for each speakers. That means there are no low frequencies in play. When you actually take the measurements you meaure the full frequency response (hence also low frequencies) and you will have the effect of room modes that can be much louder. That is why it is best to stay at the lower boundary of the green bar so you have enough headroom for room modes.
I was told that Dirac uses the loudest speaker to set to zero. That would be my subs. I might try to turn the games down on them and re-run it to see how that works. Monolith suggested I start with all levels at zero and use master to get them into the green. I have a lot to learn
@@Youthman Yes, the sub was also the loudest speaker in my case. :) It showed a gain of -9 db after calibration. I thank in a dead quiet room with no ambient noise while measuring (like yours) you will get away with a setting for all speakers just barely touching the green or even a bit lower.
I've seen the speaker levels on Dirac done moving the right gray line for all the speakers and then the left blue lines. Is it ok to just set the master and get the speaker levels about the same using the blue line vs having to mess with the gray line?
Hi Youthman, I was expecting a lot of functionality from the Bass Control which is the expensive optional extra, such as doing all the awesome things Tony does with MiniDSP from Home Theatre Gurus. I'm not sure if Bass Control is just a tick box or it can actually flatten the curve remove nulls and peaks. It would of been good to see some REW measurements before and after on your JTR RS2's. Maybe you can do another video titled MiniDSP vs Dirac Bass Control. It would be amazing to see what Tony done with you that night over 4 hours on your RS2's vs plugging your RS2's directly into your HTP-1 (without using MiniDSP) and seeing what Bass Control can do, and compare REW graphs. That would make an amazing RU-vid video. I'm thinking of buying an Anthem AVM60 and wasn't sure if I should let Anthem ARC take care of my subs or MiniDSP using Tonys 1 hour 30 minute video.
You said it is YM that was awesome dirac looks really really cool I definitely like what I see I’ve been put off because of the issues I’ve seen especially with emotive issues. Please do more in depth videos on this is this is quite fascinating thanks for all your hard work have a good one👍
i bought bass control for Marantz cinema 50. Problem: it does not appear! i activated the license and it is shown,but no idea how i can run it in Dirac.There is only a field with Dirac live written,not like in your Video multiple options/bass control :(
with a Mac laptop I don't have a "green" zone in the Level set for each channel. no matter what version of Dirac . I usually go to about -22 db. I also would like to have a possibility to take reference level into this process Also I notice that I don't have any filters shown in the left side of the target curve page...
Yes Sir, very good video. I'm been blown away with what a miniDSP and REW did for my subs, I think I might be going this route to enhance the rest of my speakers. Anything more to say about the overall outcome on the gains you received?
Great Video YM, Now is time for a HTPC for your theater. I have one I used for PLEX, Roon, and REW. I used to have it in a Silverstone pc case that is the size of a 3u amp sitting in my audio rack. I just built a new RGB RIG for it. So I am no longer using that case. If you can do something like that put the case in your cabinet like a receiver. You would just use a wireless/bluetooth keyboard/mouse you can stick in a drawer out of the way. Good Luck PM
random thought. if it was picking up a clip yet you didnt have enough volume raise your output voltage from 1.6 out of processor. it might not pushing the amps to there capabilities before it clips with it that low. turning it up will increase the clean signal sent to the amp raising your overall output of the system thus putting you in the green at a lower volume on the processor and not clipping
I verified with Monoprice that the HtP-1 with their 11X should be set to 1.6. They recommended setting all of my levels to 0dB and adjusting master volume. Will have to try that next to see how it works.
Nice video. Could use some help, just setup HTP-1, ran Dirac and can't get subs to play listening to music (Spotify) I'm guessing it's because main speakers are set to large? Which they are. Is it possible to get the subs to play main speaker bass? I'm really lacking bass. (Tekton Double Impacts, Parasound A31)
Question I did the set up but noticed I lost alot of the low bass, after calibration, also sound was lower. I don't have the bass controll, any idea's.
Go to mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2/ . Scroll towards the bottom and try some of those +dB low frequency boost curves. I started with +6 and liked it, but im currently using +4 which i find to be a better balance right now. I recommend starting with +6. You'll hear a big difference.
Please shed some light how does HTP-1 supports 4K, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HLG, and do you know if Monolith plans to upgrade same unit to 8K when that comes into play.
HTP-1 supports all to the above, except for 8k, which has no benefit in the home. You'd have to be uncomfortably close to the screen to notice a difference from 4k. Given the limits of a human with perfect vision, you'd have to sit less than the diagonal size of the screen away from the screen to perceive any detail different from 4k.
I have klipsch 7.0.4 surround. My subs took a poop on me a couple weeks ago. 4 r 51m as front height and 2 as center channel. I have 6 rp 402s for surround and sb and rear height and kf 28f as l and r. And the rz 3100. Monster power hts 3600 power conditioner
After doing some research, I found out that Bass Control is exactly the same as the free Windows tool called MSO, but it's an automatic process that involved all channels that are connected to speakers which can generate low frequencies (below 250Hz). Bass control utilized a global search based optimization algorithm that tries to flatern the response by adjusting gains, delays, PEQs, and FIR filters separately to each channel until the an objective function is minimized (all channels in all seats have a response close as possible to the target curve of each channel). The calculation is done in a could (Dirac servers). With MSO, the calculation is done using your computer, which may take longer (you can set the calculation time it tries to search for the optimal solution).
Well, i know for certain that the Dirac algorithm is patented so its really not the same as that Windows tool MSO. But im sure there are simular elements there.
I'm a bit surprised that you need to raise the Master volume that high ... have you checked the HTP-1 pre-out levels so they match the amplifier? You can also use the subwoofer plate amp volume knob to align them better with the other speakers output levels. When you start loading additional house curves, I recommend grouping all speakers together first. You can separate them later, but you normally want Dirac to make them "sound" similar. Since you have 6 slots in the HTP-1 you can compare them easily.
I was surprised as well. I checked with Monoprice and have the output voltage in the HTP-1 at 1.6v which is what they recommend for the Monolith 11X amplifier. This setup is in for review so I would rather leave the gain on the sub amp plates where they are as I have them dialed in with my system using miniDSP 2x4HD. They were well within the green so they should be good where they are at. Thx for the tip on grouping and house curves. That's next level research for me. ;) I do like how there are available slots. That is SUPER handy.
The best Dirac Calibration video on the RU-vid yet :) Did you see Dirac making any changes to EQ? or does it only apply PEQ filters if you correct the response in "Filter Design"?
What a great video thanks for sharing. Can I ask if you have 4-6 subs and a full 15 channel system how can Dirac perform the bass management Would love for you to go into more depth with the bass management part of Dirac.
Is it easy to turn correction off above the schroeder frequency like in ARC Genesis? I would like to move my Anthem MRX 1120 into another room and upgrade to separates. I would have loved to get the JBL SDP-55, but there still seems to be major firmware bugs. It looks like the HTP-1 is the processor to get if you want Dirac at the moment, although I don't like that it doesn't have RCA outputs for the subwoofers.
In the video, you will hear me mention”curtains”. It’s a vertical line that you tell the software what frequencies to not EQ. Not sure if that is what you are looking for.
@@Youthman Yes, that's it. Dr. Floyd Toole says not to use room correction above 500-5k Hz because any "correction" could result in worse sound in the higher frequencies.
I believe the Dirac software is a free download. For more than one subwoofer, you need to purchase the bass control license ($400 last I looked). You need to buy a calibrated microphone (the U-mic from Mini-DSP or the Dayton one from Parts Express). You'll need a laptop. Your processor needs Dirac, obviously.
Hi It was very informative video and learn lot. I di the calibration using Diarc software with Windows 10. My Receiver is NAD T758V3 with 7.1.2. My target curve only show 50.7 Hz to 500 Hz. In your example it shows 30 Hz to 20KHz. Can you explain the reason why?
The problems you were having almost sound like computer issues, Dirac does seem to work good, I had a few issues after updating Dirac it said my files for htp1 were different speaker number even though I never changed anything. For your calibration screen with the subs being -10 you should try turning them down before you do your measurements. It'll bring all the numbers closer to 0 master, then you can bump them up a bit if you'd like it'll make your master volume more useable. Dirac sets 0 as the quietest speaker, unlike audessey that'll make speakers plus or negative as it's needed
I certainly would not doubt that it’s a computer issue. That computer really stinks LOL. It’s super slow even just opening up chrome and only has 4GB RAM and 2GB graphics card. Thx for the tips!
Liking the video image quality and motion graphics in your new latest videos. What camera do you use and what do you use to do the motion graphics? After Effects?
Did you see the rtx 3000 series launch, of course you would not want to upgrade as soon as possible, assuming that you are happy with your vids right now.
Atmos is a format using object based elements to move sound around your room in a 3D environment. Yes, you can have Atmos with a 5.1, you just won't benefit from what many refer to as the Atmos channels which would be in-ceiling speakers, height speakers or upfiring speakers to add sound effects from above your listening positon.
Thanks for the suggestion. I shared the below update in the comments of the other videos. UPDATE: Instead of replying to every comment with the same information, I figured it would be easier to add it here. After 3 days of troubleshooting my left speaker with REW, I came to the conclusion that the 40yr old Klipsch LaScala crossover in my left speaker is going bad. I spoke with my contact at Klipsch to see if they had parts for them (figured they wouldn't) and they advised that they have partnered with jemperformanceaudio.com/ for any Klipsch Heritage repairs as they sell Heritage parts that are approved by Klipsch and will not alter the original sound signature that PWK originally designed. I spoke with the owner Jim for about 30 minutes (super cool guy) about my issue and we also had a great chat about audio as well. Jim said it sounded like the capacitors in my left speaker needed to be replaced so I ordered new capacitors for all three speakers and will get my Dad to help me solder them (I've never soldered before). I appreciate that many of you recommended ordering crossovers from GR Research, Bob Crites, or DeanG but unfortunately each of them offers modified crossovers that are different from the original design by PWK. Even if they use the same values, by using "upgraded" parts, it alters the original sound signature, which I didn't want to do. I'm looking forward to hearing how they sound after installing new caps. Of course I will document the process in a future video as well as share how they sound. If it drastically improves the sound, I'm going to kick myself from not doing this sooner. LOL Tomorrow I'm going to bring my Martin Logan 60XTi and 50XTi into the theater room and do a full Dirac calibration with the Monolith HTP-1. I'm pretty stoked to finally hear how the HTP-1 sounds so stay tuned!
Hi...did you happened to check on the mic gain in your desktop settings . I think it may have been set low, as I thought, you had to set the master volume quite high...anyway, nice detailed video....👍
Thanks for showcasing this preamp processor! This was never on my radar, and now I will be ordering this along with an 11 channel amp when I move to my new property. How many subwoofers can this processor calibrate? Do I still need a miniDSP Balanced 2x4 if I have more than 2 subwoofers?
My understanding it can process up to 5 subwoofers if you are running up to 11 speakers. You would need to purchase the Bass Control4 addon for $500. You would not need a miniDSP 2x4HD since Bass Control does everything it does and more.
If you decide this would work well for your setup, I would greatly appreciate it if you use my affiliate link in the description. Good luck with your decision.
How would you do tactile transducers/shakers with the HTP-1 and Dirac, since the mic won't work on shakers? Is there some way to do a pass-through? Any complications combining that with Dirac Bass Control, since it needs to be left out of that calculation? Any way to tune shaker time alignment?
I cant speak specifically to the Bass Control. But for Dirac without the Bass Module, I turn off the transducers for the calibration, and then turn it back on afterward. You can then adjust level and delay to what works. I'm not sure if you can use the built in PEQ along with the Dirac filters or not.
@@danielwander605 Thanks. I wouldn't mind using a mini-DSP if needed, although it would be cool to be able to set low-pass, high-pass, and delay right in the receiver, and skip that. Do you use a dedicated sub channel, LFE, or split off one of the sub channels?
robcohen well you can definitely set the delay and level. I assume also can set the low pass filter to where you want it. And if you can use peq with Dirac then I think you can set a high pass that way. I have 4 subs into a mini Dsp with a single output to sub 1 on the processor. Sub 2 is dedicated to transducers to my crown amp which I have the low pass filter set to 40 or 50 hz.
@@danielwander605 That makes sense. Pretty straightforward with a MiniDSP. Dirac & Dirac Bass Control might complicate things, since they revolve around measurements. Will it even let you add a sub channel without measurements? If needed, I guess I can always split off one of the sub channels.
Looking good :). I loved materials about speaker problems and ways to check them, and when I saw you taking all messsurments I thougth about new subjcect you can explain. How low are relly movies go to I mean godzilla roar, lord of the rings saruman wave, dark knight rises field scene ect. I think it would be very intresting. Keep the good work ;)
Very surprised you needed to raise the master volume that much, I am using an Arcam AVR & I only need around -50dB master volume with mic gain at 100%. Its also very dangerous to immediately raise the master volume that high before playing any test tones as it is very easy to blow a tweeter playing test tones to loud by mistake. I start with the master volume low & play test tones through all the speakers to find which one is the lowest in terms of volume/SPL. I then play a test tone through the speaker that measured the lowest & raise the master volume until I get acceptable SPL from that speaker. For the remaining speakers I use the trim sliders to bring them into line if needed which is not very often. I never adjust the trim sliders for the subs but instead use the gain control on my subs amps to adjust the level & seeing as I gain match all my subs they all use the same gain setting so I increase them all by the same amount. You will want to look at the corrected responses by checking the "corrected" spectrum check box in the bottom right corner after calculating the bass control filters as the default crossover point Dirac sets is not always the best choice & can result in large nulls in the crossover region. Small adjustments to the crossover point can result in large improvements in the crossover region & is well worth spending the time to get it right.
As mentioned, you can adjust the target curve, you can also try toeing your speakers slightly out which will move your tweeters less in line with your ears smoothing out the top end.
Oh man...you should really reconsider. You can make those Lascala’s sooooo much better with some high quality ALK crossovers. The stock crossovers are low quality and outdated. I’ve had a ton of experience with Klipsch Heritage and even the direct replacement Crites crossovers would be a worthwhile upgrade.
Youthman , ouch. Forget that I said anything. Why does everyone have to get so defensive? Just offering a suggestion to help a fellow enthusiast out. Wow. Crazy world we live in these days. Lol
@@Youthman Would love to see a comparison between SR8015 (your take on AV8805) vs HTP-1 and which one would you buy if you are in the market for one. I'm sure SR8015 will be easy to calibrate and more polished compare to HTP-1 :P
Great video thanks for the detailed steps you took. To be clear you paid extra for the bass management correct? It does not come free with the HTP-1. Is it really worth it to spend an extra 500?
I was given a trial version of Bass Management for the review. It’s typically $499. I have not done any before and after testing with him without it so I’m not sure yet
Thanks Brice. There is another area on their website at the end of last year with the 249 and 399 price. They probably should remove that since the price has increased since then
You should call this video "how NOT to do Dirac calibration" . You do not need to change the mic gain of the Umik-1. Just leave it at minimum which means automatic gain...
@@Youthman I have a NAD C658 with Umik-1 and during Dirac V3 setup the mic gain is set to default 0dB auto gain, which is the preferred setting for any USB mic
For all of your viewers who want some guidance on Dirac Live, they should reach out to Terry Ellis at pursuitperfectsystem.com. He is a well know calibrator from England. He can not do a custom calibration (since he is in England), but he can help using team viewer. If you invested $3k or more on a premier Surround Processor (such as NAD, ARCAM, Emotiva & Minidsp), then is worth getting an expert calibrator.
Thank you kindly Victor. Glad you enjoyed the video. As far as the ads, this is my full-time job. I do not know anyone that goes to work and doesn’t get a paycheck. RU-vid ads are a very small way that content creators like myself get paid. It’s certainly nowhere close enough to be able to luff of ads alone so we have to have other streams of revenue as well (affiliate links, Patreon, merch, sponsored videos and brand deals). I would be grateful if you considered becoming a Patron. There are plans for as low as $2/month. If I had only 2% of my 60,000 subscribers supporting me on Patreon, I could turn ads off permanently. Thanks for watching and have a blessed day
Ok... Not to b rude but, the name is (die-rack) dirac. I have used this for emotiva xmc-1 and now I have the xmc-2. Start your mic gain at about -30db. Then test all of your speakers to see which one has the lowest db (decibals), next if your lowest db speaker does not reach -16 then use your master output gain for dirac to raise or lower it to -16. Finally set the rest of your speakers as close as you can to -16. If you cant get them to -16 because youre too far above -16 or too far below -16 try running dirac. if it fails you might want to try toggling the master out and the mic simultaneously. For instance master gain -1 or -2 while you bump up mic gain 1 or 2 or vice versa. Try to keep them tit for tat (- for one and + for the other). I hope this helps everyone and good luck!!!!!
