Mopar 8.75 Rebuild with New Sure Grip Install (True Spirit #27) 

I agree. If I was a high school shop teacher I would show this video to my class. To me this is teaching 101. Just facts, straight to the point and no unnecessary babble. Nice one!

Thanks cheap and easy. I appreciate the kind words.

I've seen that same recommendation but honestly, after half a dozen times, you get pretty quick at it, so unless I was doing these every day, I think I'd still just use the press. I'd misplace the special ground bearing between uses anyway

I've not specifically done a 657, but I suspect there's not much difference. I will say that if it has a crush sleeve (I don't recall if 657s do), I would get a crush sleeve eliminator from Dr. Diff.

I start with the same shims I take out, then adjust from there

If it's not right, you have to add either adjust it with the adjustment rings (for backlash, which is up/down) or remove/add shims under the pinion to adjust in/out

@@YoshimoshiGarage doesn’t that mess up the backlash or do you basically start that from scratch after you adjust it ? Sorry for the seemingly stupid questions

Not a stupid question at all. It will change backlash, but not much. You definitely need to check both after adding pinion shims, but it shouldn't change nearly as much as it moves the pattern

Yes, they'll be in gear lube their whole lives. And you can definitely do it.

@@YoshimoshiGarage But if one did do it, would they use wheel bearing grease to pack? I think I'll just copy you and just assemble without, so I don't mix greases and oils, and not try to fix an issue that isn't one.

If you did want to grease them, use an oil-soluble grease like transmission assembly lube

Between the gear and bearing

Yes, it's red. An impact gun or breaker bar takes it apart easily without heat.

Blue loc-tite is my personal choice. Has more than enough holding power and doesn't damage the treads during the future removal. Red loctite is overkill.

The gasket is pretty easy. Pull the wheels and drums off. Take off the flange nuts and pull the axles out 4-6 inches or so. Then take all the diff nuts off and it drops right out.

It's called a "bearing separator tool". Here's one from Amazon, but you can pick them up at several places: amzn.to/42qeAVe

I added a link to the one I used in the video description.

I'm not clear on where you're talking. A shim that sets the pinion depth (between the pinion gear and bearing), or between the bearing and the yoke?

@@YoshimoshiGarage pinon and the bearing...

Between the pinion gear and bearing sets depth. If the marking paste shows contact out by the edge of the gear, you need to add shims to put it in the middle. I lucked out and mine was right when assembled

@@YoshimoshiGarage Gotcha, Many Thanks, Again!

Still easier than a Dana 44

I'm interested to know why you think the bearings are going to fail

@@YoshimoshiGarage I have 2 concerns. Both of them are related to the same practice. My first concern is pressing the inner race on by pushing on the outer race. I was taught and read this practice risks causing flat spots on the rollers or the races causing premature failure. The other time I was concerned was when you torqued the pinion to the point the bearings wouldn't rotate, even under force. I don't think you're facing rapid failure, but the one time I did that (in an electric motor not a differential) the bearings only lasted 2 years when they should have lasted indefinitely. I may have also done something else wrong that caused the failure, there were definitely flat spots on the races when I removed them and inspected them. I also know we can get away with a lot of improper technique. Is the differential in service yet? I would like to see if the installation technique is that important. Those are my thoughts. I did do some quick research and I did not find these warnings, but they also did not direct installing them that way. So, I may be operating on old information.

I think both are valid concerns, but here's my thinking on them (for what that's worth). First, the bearing goes on pretty easily, and that load is getting spread across all of the rollers. My hope/belief is that there wasn't nearly enough pressure there to cause deformation of the bearings or races. I hold out the same hope for the pre-load situation. The axle is mounted in the frame, but I'm still a long way from running this. I'm still assembling the chassis and have the entire body to do after that.

@@YoshimoshiGarage in a static condition your most likely only pushing on 3 rollers (like a 3 legged stool). And the majority of the force is vertically through the roller only about a third will transition to the long side of the roller. The more I think about it the more I think it will be fine. I would just keep a closer than normal look out for play in the pinion bearings so you catch before they hurt anything if they do fail.

Orientation is also important, not just which side they go on.