What is 'Yoshimoshi"? It's just a nonsense word that I made up years ago and told my then-small children it was the best show on TV. The name stuck, and here we are.
What do I do? I work on projects. Lots of projects. Fixing cars, garage and shop projects, home repairs, electronics and maker projects and everything in between. We'll even take side trips into learning how common items and parts work, mostly by tearing them apart.
The 318 has a rather small 2bbl carb. The 360 2bbl carb is quite a bit bigger, like the 2bbl on a 400. I guess that only works if no one has put a 4bbl intake on it.
I thought the video was great thanks for posting it. I realize the marking compound confirmed a proper setup. I may have missed any discussion about pinion depth. Do you usually check under the old pinion bearing for shims? Or do you use the measuring jig that goes underneath the caps? I thought everything was covered very well except for that.
I've got a question. That material that looked to be destroyed. Did you ever find out it's purpose? I've got an 8.75 rear that I installed Green bearings on & I'm having an issue getting the axles back into the housing. It looks like there is material like yours that MIGHT have to be removed from my housing before the axles can be seated fully. Did you have that issue on your drivers side?
I think you mean the repair sleeve that someone put on the axle (poorly). That would be potentially bad for the seal but won't affect getting the axle back in. How far off it yours? Did you get the bearing pressed all the way on (no gap between it and the shoulder on the axle)? Backing plates are on and factory thickness?
@YoshimoshiGarage Yes. I had my axle bearings done at a professional machine shop. They're very reputable & have been in business since the 60's. The splines on both axle shafts begin to engage the carrier then stop. The pinion turns, but the bearings only go into the housing like a 16th of an inch, then stop. I've tried turning while pushing in & tapping on the ends with a dead blow hammer. Both sides just die. I even went so far as to remove the button or cylinder in the carrier that keeps the axles from contacting each other. I'm stumped!
What about the early aluminum block cars. Did they use one of these heads, or did they have a special head, with possibly performance tweakings, or just standard heads from the cast-iron block. Thanks for opening a can of worms...I've always loved the slant 6.
Do you daily it? The green bearings in my 8 3/4 lasted about a year in my daily. Replaced them and was surprised how small the actual bearings are. Now the Trans-Am cars use the stock bearings also. They do not use the green bearings because the Trans-Am cars corner. Just something to add to the debate.
I've used green bearings in every 8.75 I've owned since about 1992 including several daily drivers and on cross-country road trips. I've never had one fail.
I bought a stone hone oike this and thought i shoukd have purchased a ball hone too. Nope. Im going to stick with this type of home .. Great informative video. I'm not even going to look for other video's.... Great job!!!! A+++
I’m 2 years late to the party. My comments are absolutely not intended as a criticism at all, I really just to help out anyone watching this video, setup a lathe for brake drums. So, for the benefit of others…Even bungee cords and/or duct tape and rags are enough to stop ringing. The ringing isn’t just a nuisance, it’s audible chatter (not all chatter is audible). Lathe RPM is way too fast. I’m not quite sure about feeds from the video, but if you are constantly losing a good hss edge, SLOW IT ALL DOWN before going to TC. HSS will handle Cast Iron at correct speeds (which makes heat manageable). If you’ve got TC, that’s fine, but for those of you who don’t have access to TC, don’t leave this video feeling like you NEED TC to turn down a brake drum. There is very very few things that can’t be managed with HSS, provided you have the patience. In fact, for the average at home DIY tinkerer machinist, HSS is really all you need. TC can allow you to take deeper cuts at higher speeds/feeds, but if you’ve got the time, HSS will do all the same things (and TC has its downsides too, so it’s not all roses). Having said all that, if your lathe is stuck in a higher gear and low speed is not an option, TC is a brilliant option to get the job done.
Hi there thank you very much for your clear explanation and one question I would like to ask you is how you can replace the winding inside the motor body. Regards, Peter Seperd from Papua New Guinea
Talk about bad work, I sent out a chevy 327 for a full rebuild. After 2,000 miles it started to burn oil. This was almost a year later, the builder said to bad. We got a motor out of a wreck with only 75,000 miles, at the junk yard, and got 8 years of service, with no problems. So before you commit to a rebuilder, do some research check around first.
The full kits contain several cutters and pilots. If you're doing one type of head, you can get just 2 individual cutters for the 3 angles you need, plus a single pilot.
Thank you so much, I'm currently studying automotive mechanics here in my country and today I have an exam regarding this little dude. Even though I already tore down both kinds of starter motors, seeing one that was in bad shape brought back to full operation gave me quite a lot of insight. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and have a splendid day, good sir!
Got a free “360” from one of my dad’s buddy, got to tearing it down ordering parts only to realize the oil pan gasket I ordered was not the same as what I took off… odd. So finally I checked the numbers and it’s a 318. The only thing I’ve orders so far that won’t work is the flywheel luckily. Glad I remembered this video as it helped me double check.
4 of the holes on the gasket are smaller so you can actually push the bolts through them and they will stay and hold the gasket in place. So no need for any gasket sealant to keep it in place.
