Mopar A-body Drum to Disc Brake Swap (Pirate Jack Kit) 

Sounds like a pretty sweet setup on your ‘69 fish. I think those UCAs alone retail for $400 bucks haha. Good score 👍🏻

Ive got disc brakes in the rear as well so, the original distro block worked out.

​@@sorta_stock what setup do you have for the rear?

@@marcuskhosravi9920 I installed an 8.8 out of a 97 Ford Explorer. 4.10 LSD with disc brakes from factory. I uploaded a video of the swap and what was needed. I’ve got well over 50 hard passes at the strip and the axle doesn’t even sweat it. Not sure if I’ll leave it in there but, it worked great for the budget competition I was in.

Glad to hear it’s still workin good for you a year later! The parts looked and felt like decent quality.

Having to rebuild new parts is super frustrating. Hopefully the kit still works for you.

The Pirate Jack’s kit is ok. I’m seeing a little more wear than I had expected this early on. Still a good product for the money

@@sorta_stock Just the pads or the rotors too?

@@theinsaneshecklador6598 the pads look just fine. It’s the rotors that are wearing faster than expected.

@@sorta_stock Thanks for the heads up.

Yup. I posted a comment with the update. I had missed a washer which, when added, allowed me to torque it down to spec.

I actually went back and added the needed washers to the ball joint which tightened them up significantly.

Wednesday lol. Master cylinder was Friday morning though 😆

I don’t see the numbers stamped and Doctor Diff doesn’t have them posted on the website. I bought the front “Suspension Rebuild Kit” on Doctordiff.com

www.doctordiff.com/suspension-rebuild-kit.html

Drdiff

I swapped the entire rear end with one that already came with disc brakes. That video is posted.

I sure did but, I don’t have that sheet any longer.

The kit did come with strut rod bushings and I did swap those out off camera. The LCA bushing wasn’t supplied in the overhaul kit but, the existing one wasn’t in too bad of shape.

@@sorta_stock Understood. I've done dozens of front rebuilds and disc conversions and learned the hard way about not changing those pieces out while you had it disassembled that far. Other then that, excellent video.

Yes, it’s manual disc 👍🏻

I used the one that came with the kit. It bolted right up but, I had issues with the internal seal. Had to reinstall the O-ring. I also reused the stock rod

Not with this particular setup but, they do have a kit that allows the use of a 14” wheel. It’s looks identical but, has a slightly smaller diameter.

If you buy their kit for the smaller 5x4 bolt pattern@@sorta_stock

8.8 out of a ‘97 Explorer

15x7 centerlines with a 4.25” backspace

That is a great question. The calipers and pads appear to be the same as my 77 Ramcharger. Same style at least. I’ll do some digging and see if I can find them.

@@sorta_stock Thanks man. As of now - I got so frustrated trying to buy a kit that comes with the part #'s. I just rebuilt what I had - new shoes, bearings/ drums/ brake lines/ wheel cylinders/ ect. Everyone seems to make it so complicated to buy a conversion kit that I gave up trying to buy one. Some kits use the same master cylinder - or some need a brake booster or a different metering block ect. I still want to convert to disc the next time the shoes need replacing. But for now - it was easier to just rebuild the entire drum system. And not for nothing - But about 3 weeks ago, I met a dude who did a conversion on his 71' Dart about 15 years ago and he said the brake pads are made for an early 90's Dodge Caravan. (same part# anyway) He wasn't sure about the rotors, but thought he still had the part #'s saved in a file cabinet at home. Oh yeah, if u still have those old front hubs - they're worth about $400 a piece if u can find them. Mine were rebuildable but thought I'd mention that if u want to sell em' on ebay or something. Thats' what I'll do when I install a conversion. Maybe help off-set some of the costs of the conversion.

Regarding the ball joints, you have 2 limiting factors to watch out for. The first is torque and the second is alignment. Ball joints require a fairly low torque value (around 15ft-lbs which feels like you’re just snuging them with a wrench). Then the cotter pin is installed. If it doesn’t align, you tighten slightly until it aligns. With such a low torque value, I don’t bother putting a torque wrench on it. Plus, it has the extra insurance of the cotter pin.

@@sorta_stock really? Specs in service manual for lower ball joints is 100 ft lb. Is the 15 ft lb spec in the instructions, if so I believe that’s an error. Just giving you heads up so it doesn’t come apart later.

Yup, you’re right. I don’t have the paperwork anymore but, looking back at the video, I see why the castle nut alignment worked so well with the lower torque rating. I left out the washers. Thanks for the catch 👍🏻

Haven’t really thought about it. Maybe