Nice! Just a tip, the long 3" screws should have been installed on the doorstop side (the side where the weather stripping is). This ensures that you not only grab the 2X4s, but you also have the maximum amount of it to prevent forced entry. Also, I'd recommend making the hole in the jamb for the deadbolt more oblong (top to bottom) this helps with shifting foundations. You can do this by marking the centre of the hole, and stitching 2 1" diameter holes together and chisel for cleanup to make it look professional.
The screws are only as good as the plate itself. Good screws with massive shear loads will hold but the end of that strike plate will just pop out. Obviously, every door has it’s limits too. When I do this I try and use a #10x3 but have done #12x4 on garage doors. Usually whatever will sit flush in the plate. Spax screws and GRK R4 screws are great for this.
@@turbotension True, but testing on the reinforcing plate from Schlage has shown that it's sufficient for your normal forcing attacks....perhaps not enough for driving a forklift through but then again, who's driving a forklift to your door? haha, Great input nevertheless.
Thanks for turning off the sound for the drilling parts. Hardly anyone thinks to do that in these how-to videos, but good production skills make a huge difference. This was helpful, thank you.
The security plate will give better protection if the screws are put closer to the center of the stud wall by rotating the plate 180 degrees. As installed here, they are very close to the edge and easy for a burglar to bust through
Tips for ya : After your done tracing out the template u can cut it with a utility knife first then use the chisel that way the stricke plate can fit perfect with no gaps!
Great video, but upvote for the first twenty seconds alone. No BS, no cheesy graphics, told me what the video was about and who should watch it. Straight to the point, well done.
i always use a sharp razor knife to cut the outline of the plate - first screw the plate in place then cut around it to get nice lines to follow up with !
Thank you, Tiffany! I very much appreciate the kind words and the like. It really is the best way to support my videos. I’m glad the video helped you and I hope you have a great day!
Make the hole as small as possible to accommodate the deadbolt regardless of the strike opening. It will be much stronger and in interior applications you may not even need a strike plate depending on your finishing skills.
yes, the long screws are on the wrong side of the strike plate. You need to redo that. You want them in the center of the 2x4 framing, not the edge. The edge will break easily when someone brute kicks in the door.
Hello. Thank you for the comment. I have redone the incorrect placement of the screws. If someone decides to brute the door, they better also have body armor 😵😂
The security plate should have been screws next to the inside door frame and the lever handle was facing out. I did like hw he started his chisel in the midddle and worked down and up I will try that next time.
Good clean work. One suggestion: deepen the bolt hole a little more than needed- this allows for room if the door shifts/swells/etc. And yes 3" screws on the strike.Good vid
I don't believe in tooth brushing, as it is sinful. So I'll have to purchase some toothpaste specifically for this woodworking task. Can this be done with any toothpaste, or only the kind which has fluoride? Will the type made for sensitive teeth work as well? How about whitening toothpaste? There are just so many choices at the Piggly Wiggly.
Just butchered my first attempt although it works but remembered your video. Wish I had watched it first LOL. Have one more to do and I think you've empowered me...
Hmm. How do I fill in an old strike plate hole from an old door, with that hole just below where the new hole would be. Seems problematic. Like I need a new frame. Maybe there is away.
Thank you for showing this. I'm frantically trying to install the last of my Mother's door locks and the strike plate my Dad previously installed will not allow the dead bolt to enter. I was able to insert the dead bolt into the existing hole but the size of the new strike plate needed to be chiseled longer, or up and down. I'm thankful to know I can just chisel it so thank you.
I have a metal door with a metal door frame that I want to install a dead bolt on. How hard do you think it would be to cut away the metal on the door frame to install the strike plate and do you have any tips for that?
Great job all around with your video. Short, clear explanations with your demonstrating, silencing the drill noise, easy to follow. Gave it a like and subscribed. Thank you!
Easy to follow and easy to understand the steps. I used to install entry doors about four years ago and am doing one today. This is exactly the refresher course I needed. ✌🏼❤️
Hey bro, I have salvaged tools. I have a B&D drill but don't have that bit that makes a hole. What is it called please? Is there anyway to make the hole if that bit is not there? Any way to improvise?
Hello. Getting the bit is by far your best option. They are relatively cheap. It’s called a hole saw bit or auger bit. Both names are accurate. It’s 1” in diameter.
So i have a question, hopefully you can answer cause i cant really find a solution anywhere...my problem is that the wood inside where the "plate" would go is gone, so i cant screw in a plate in, which causes the door to just open and close easily even when its locked because i cant put a plate there to hold the latch. Im basically looking for how to refill that hole, i was thinking about dry wall? But i honestly have no idea about any of this, so hopefully you can help.
Hello. That’s pretty strange that the wood is gone. Where did it go? Kidding aside, I would not fill with drywall. It’s not durable enough to hold a strike plate over time and provides little to no security as it’s very breakable. I’d either replace the entire door frame (or just that side) or fill with wood. Strange that the wood is gone. Did someone damage the door frame?
@@FastFixRU-vid Lol Its all good, but yeah i guess it was just old because it just started breaking off into pieces when i tried to screw it in. I tried to put a small block of wood in there, but it ended up breaking over time.
Can I do the same thing to the door itself? My problem is that my door has the circle hole where the faceplate is supposed to be but it needs to have the standard rectangular one so I can install a smart lock.
Hello. There should be kits/templates that will allow you to accomplish that. So, the edge of the door where the bolt extends out needs to be a rectangle instead of a circle?
I don’t know why you didn’t drill the pilot holes before you did the checkout, you had it marked when you traced out the plate then chiseled it away. The toothpaste is a good idea to know where the bolt will fit, I’m going to remember that one. Also there are striker plate jigs that hammer in the border cut without the risk of splitting away the timber close to the edge and can use for doors and door jambs.
Do you use the same drill piece included in the kit to drill on the side of the door for the deadbolt to come out the same one on the door frame for the entrance into the strike plate?
Hello. Both hole boring bits are included in the kit. You'll use the larger sized one for the door to create an opening for the deadbolt. The smaller sized one is used to create a void in the door itself (to house the bolt contraption) and into the door jab for the bolt to extend into. So the answer to your question (as I understand it) is yes. Best of luck!
I keep a tube of lipstick in my toolbox just for marking things like you did with the toothpaste. This isn't advisable to do with the wife's favorite makeup though...
Hello. The tool is called a chisel. You can find them at most home improvement stores or Harbor Freight which is where I got mine. Thanks for the question.
Thanks for uploading this video it's super helpful! I just had a quick question, we're trying to reinforce our door they've had break-ins but we've noticed the wood where the screws were scrumbled as we took them out so now we have to make room for a longer strike plate I assume but we're also having a problem stripping the screws bc it's been hard to get the wood screws to easily screw in. Any tips I see you made a hole first will that help ? Thanks again
Hello. I’m not sure I’m totally understanding your problem. Are you saying that there’s not enough wood or the wood is damaged to the point where the screws won’t grab securely?
I use a felt round for cabinet doors. Just stick the felt on the bolt center and use a sharpie to color it. Then shut door and work bolt untill it marks the door jam.Easy Peasy!!
@@FastFixRU-vid it will, I am renovating my entire second floor and replacing 9 doors that the previous owners had the hinges mounted way to high so im filling those holes and putting the new spot where it should be located and getting the exact position will be easier with your trick, I was just going to line it up on the trim and mark the spot and draw a line in. Thx!
I was already considering using paint or some other goop to find where the bolt will strike, but I rather like your toothpaste idea. Much easier to clean up. Thanks for the tip and the video!
You could also use a combination square, set it on the edge of the door, push the rule part through till it meets the bolt, tighten, then put the square on the jamb, mark where the rule ends, this method will only work if the door & jamb are level.
In addition to longer screws, the screws should have been placed with the strike plate rotated 180 degrees so there is more wood between the screws and the inside edge of the door. Having the screws so close to the edge is going to make it much easier to kick the door in. This is the reason the screws are not centered in the strike plate, to provide more distance to the edge and therefor more wood to prevent a kick in.
To remove material after cutting the outline, start the chisel cut in the hole facing up or down at your desired thickness removal and it comes out in one chunk a lot of times
@@FastFixRU-vid Update: I was able to move the regular door latch strike with no problem. The deadbolt is more complicated. I don't want the jamb to look like somebody hacked it up with an axe so I will probably bring in a pro to do that part.
