In this video I explore some bed mounting options for my 53 Chevrolet pick up, The wooden block dimensions are 2 3/16 tall, 1 3/4 wide and 2 inches long
I liked your installation... I did the same except my aim was to eliminate through-bolts going through the wood to hold the box to the frame. I used the same square tubing you used instead of the wood blocks but I welded the steel blocks to the cross-sills instead of the frame. Drilled a square hole in the bottom of the square tubing pieces and a bigger round hole in the cross-sill to accept carriage bolts. I too use truck mud flaps for all my rubber cushion needs... One trick I've gleaned from you video is to drill the bottom of the frame to clear a socket and attach the front cross-sill to the upper flange of my boxed frame. That will eliminate the protruding nut and bolt that gets in the way of my hoist's rear pads.
NICE job on the truck! I am in the middle of rebuilding my 1947 Chevy 3/4 ton. I'm not going as FAR as you are, but it is down to every nut, bolt, and rusted washer!
thank was looking for some instruction on mounting the bed , can you show where the cross braces go . One other thing do you have any video on the rear cab mounts and how to shim it.
The reason I couldn’t weld the nuts on is because the bed is held down with carriage bolts in the wood floor of the bed so you have to tighten them from below.
@@idahofabricator8710 I'm holding it my hand lol! I should just get your email cuz I feel like I'm gonna need a lot of helping figuring out this body lol
its for, when u drill through the bed wood carrage bolt.the washer should be counter-sunk even with the bed-wood. it is offset so that when you install the bed on the frame, the washer wont spin around
Robert, thanks for the question. I got my fuel tank from a company called Tanks Inc. they have all kinds of fuel tanks. I knew the measurements of the frame in the area that I wanted the tank to fit in, I wanted to have the fuel filler coming out of the left rear fender and I wanted it set up for fuel injection, so I chose a tank for a 1941 to 48 Ford. They give you all the measurements for the fuel tanks so you can find the exact one that’s gonna fit your application and they weren’t very expensive for a brand new fuel tank.
@@idahofabricator8710 thank you sir for the information and the quick reply. Having the filler neck come out of the fender is very ingenious. Most just take the easy way and have it located in the bed floor near the tail gate thus eliminating the spare tire. Can't wait to see more of your truck. By far the best on you tube! Your craftsmanship and ideas are superb. The delivery is entertaining and the camera work is excellent too. Very respectfully, Robert MASON El Paso, Tx
Forgive me, what are the wood boxes for? They didn't come from the factory like that. Why would someone want those blocks of wood? I must be missing something here?
Hey good evening. Just wondering if you could give me some information on how you built your custom crossmember with the driveshaft loop. I really like what you did with it. Where did you get a bent pipe like that? I presume it’s a 2” pipe. Also what wall thickness? How far apart did you space your exhaust cutouts? Do you have a video of making that crossmember? Thanks for your time.
Hey Brad thanks for the question I got the tubing loop from Art Morrison industries the part number is 33330125 it sells for 35 bucks the tubing is 1-7/8 and the crossmember was 2 x 5 with a wall thickness at .188 or 3/16 , the exhaust cut outs are 8 inches from the inside of the frame to the center of the cut out.
No my original bed was usable somebody had taken 3/16 inch plate steel and stick welded it all around the perimeter for a bed floor and they also welded it to the cross sills underneath that welding severely warped all the panels so I bought a new bed from Mar-k I believe it cost 1300 and that included everything, cross sills new tailgate with hidden hardware and the quality is amazing
Hi Steven. I understand perfectly, about the steel. But for some reason, I haven’t found the sizes of the “wooden blocks”. Can you give them to me? Thanks and have a great day.
Here’s your dimensions Mark, the wood blocks are 1 3/4“ x 2 1/4“ and 2 1/ 8th inches tall and there’s a 1/2 inch hole through the center. Hope that helps Mark.
Hi Steve. Did you do a segment on mounting the cab. I find it strange that there is a gap between the floora.d the chassis mount.the floor will colapse. When tightened. I thought of enlarging the hole thru the floor.and adding bishing..what did you do?
my question how do you title it ? 49 and under has it vin. number on the frame and if you change the frame the vin. number changes or dont match 1950 and up there are numbers on different parts of the body no one has answered that question
There is no Vin number on the frame of my truck. The Vin number is on the drivers door jam. It’s a blue plate that’s riveted to the drivers door jam on the hinge side. If the plate is missing you can buy OEM style plates and stamp your own numbers and rivet them on the door jam
Idaho Fabricator where your feet are on floor board pass side it is stamped in frame that follows the car 49 and down in the state of Illinois they even cut your floor board out if the suspect don’t match and confiscate the truck
Donny Moose Well that’s crazy Donnie I’m surprised that Illinois DMV doesn’t have some allowance for that, and you can’t be the first person to have to replace the frame
