Protip to anyone trying this, swap out your e-brake cables and your evap check valve all at the same time, they all require dropping the tank. Also make sure you have an empty tank, makes it 100x easier. I've dropped my tank twice in the past month (with 9 gallons in it to boot) once to do the brakes, once because I had to remove my driver side coolant hard pipe. It takes about 20 minutes if you've done it before.
so glad i bought my ZZ with a roll bar preinstalled. My buddy who i bought it from was explaining to me how horrible the install was. I now understand from your video.
Installing that rollcage has to be the worst job I've done on the car so far. It was really annoying. If you say the 2zz install is easier, then I am really looking forward to doing it.
I discovered there’s a US specification for seat belt bolt sizes. It’s mandated that all cars sold in the United States. Use SAE find thread fasteners. Even our Japanese cars have US spec bolt threads on the seatbelts anyway
gotta go a dry carbon glue in hard top next and door bars for maximum rigidity, also get rid of the stock fuel tank and throw an under body fuel cell in...
Glad to see you had as much fun as I did. I did mine when the motor was out of the car though so that made it a lot easier. I also welded the holes on the bottom back up but I like the idea of just covering with aluminum tape. Why not silicone the aluminum tape on for extra sealing?
Thanks for making this video man, I'm about halfway through the install and finding the instructions pretty lackluster. When you snugged the two shoulder bolts down to push the roll bar as low as possible did you notice the passenger side wasn't as low as the driver side? I have a little bit of a gap on that side but the it can't go any lower as it's hitting near the top of the fuel tank. I didn't want to start drilling and find there was some way for it to go lower.
Was it necessary to cut the soft top, or was it a decision to do this for weight reduction? I think I missed the reasoning behind that choice in this video.
Great video! I heard roll bars make street driving more dangerous due to rear ended collisions happening more often! I was wondering if you guys knew anything regarding this topic.
If you think dropping that tank was a pain, stay away from the AW11. I used an engine hoist to lift the rear end because my jack, even with 2x4 blocks, wouldn't go high enough. It runs length wise in the center of the car, and has no access port from inside the chassis to replace the pump assembly. what a stupid design.
Hi, Great video As always informative ! That valve cover ... did you paint that with spary or powder coat ? do you remember what colour Gold name it is? Thx!
I bought this because it passes scca and nasa requirements. Also know others that have flipped s2000 and miata. Bar saved their lives. Most shops charge $2k plus for a custom bar as well.
Too add to that. Welding should only be in ADDITION to backing plates. Welding to sheet metal does not yield very good strength. Sandwiching the sheet metal is much stronger, so strong in fact that welding is rather unnecessary. Full cage race car though is a different story.
Had an SCCA legal roll bar in my Yaris and I paid under a grand for the Autopower kit and the labor to weld it in. That was with custom mounting plates that were thicker and larger in size for a little extra assurance.
