In this short video I explain a few things I had to do while finalizing the assembly on the 7M-GTE. It is nearly ready for installation into the chassis, a big step forward for the MRC Project '89 Toyota Supra.
Your alternator size looks like a 70A one from a non turbo 7m, get a early 1990's 100A MR2 alternator (with electric power steering option) for a upgrade. I am running a Denso MR2 alternator on my 7mGTE which it drops and plugs right in.
how much power did it make ? did you make the oil pipe crossover or did you buy it? doing a 5mge with simular mods ATM on e85 6 ls3 coils id 1000 injectors and adaptronic m6000 60-2 front wheel forged pistons PAR forged rods
Hey mate hello from Australia Im doing a very similar low budget build on a 7mgte for my Cressida now would you be able to pass on oil clearance and ring gap numbers as there is alot of conflicting information about 7ms and oil and ring gap it's said that if you use different clearance for your bearings it will be a oil using Rod rattling ring scuffing weapon Awesome vids
You have mounted the alternator to the AC pump mount position... And I bet the waste gate will lower the whole to much that you end up hitting the steering rack or so. And I would like to say you need something to support the weight of the turbo and manifold... I see you got bigger bolts in but that might not be enough.
onhawaii I second this, don’t weld that flange and think u will clear subframe and engine mount automatically with wastegate attached. I just put my engine in and scratched the hell out my paint due to no clearance. Also just put a thick washer on the alternator hub and tighten it down, same problem I had with driftmotion alt pulley.
You are correct, but I didn't plan to use the A/C so a Beech Performance relocation bracket worked great. The wastegate doesn't hit anything, actually has quite a bit of room where it ended up. The turbo won't need addition support, as I've installed many turbo systems with much more weight. Its actually not much weight from a leverage point of view, as most of the piping is kept close to the block.
The engine has been in for a few weeks now, there was plenty of room for the wastegate, and dump pipe. I thought of doing that with the pulley but decided the steel was a bit more favorable.
MRC Tuned cool deal, so our manifold is def different, I have v2 version so I clear oil pipe and bang engine mount instead. LOL lost lots of blood from knuckles and wrist tightening everything down
I looks just so freaking long compared to the original manifold so I had the concern it hitting something. And don't forget the support is not only holding some of the weight in place it also gives it a lever to lower the stress on the manifold bolts that comes from the movement of the engine. It will move a little in the mounts and give the movement to the exhaust system and the flex is quite a bit. I know you have a flex hose in it but that is just part of the trick. So If the manifold separate s from the head you know what you have missed. And if the threats rip out or the head cracks you are screwed. You already have the thicker bolds in and much more material isn't there to fix that. I would go save then sorry. To have no support to the block to the turbo is a risk you are taking that might not be worth it. It is not hard to make a bracket that goes from the original spot to the manifold but hard to fix the damage if shit hits the fan.
I've been terrible at getting vids up, obviously, and I don't like that. Just been away from the house most of a year working, and then trying to keep up with customer cars. The engine is in the car, but being swapped for a 2JZ. It made around 700hp at the crank on E92 fuel and 32psi boost (based on fuel flow calculations). Just have had too many stupid things cause massive headaches.... the oil pump driveshaft eating into the block, CKP sensor failing and causing poor driveability. I fixed these things, but unfortunately had a coolant cap let go and dumped all the coolant out on a 4rth gear loaded tuning pull, which of course popped the head gasket and warped the head. After searching and searching for a good replacement head, I decided to pull the plug on the 7M. I loved it, when it ran. But my power goals are just too high for the availability of certain parts, so the 2JZ is getting built and I'm using a brand new, just released Xona Rotor 8264S turbo with their new ultra high flow turbine wheel. Hoping for 900+ at the crank when it's in. Car itself drives great and was stupid fast with the 7M. Looking forward to the 2J.
How man looks great...Im building mine now..how do u feel about a light weight aluminum crank pulley... I've had my whole rotating assembly balanced, plus flywheel and crank pulley...would like ur feed back b4 installing
christopher williams Aluminum crank pullies are a big no no. Even a perfectly balanced engine produces harmonics that need to be canceled out with a damper. The main bearings suffer the most with a lightweight pulley, but I've seen crankshafts crack because of the lack of a damper. Cheers mate.
Gaz Girl not clueless, just have heard alot of different things about the lightweight crank pulley..so was asking someones opinion. I have heard they put more stress on the bearings, and have SEEN people run them for yrs with no issues...i was just undecided..lol. It came with my kit, will not be using it tho
