I am running two light silvers, using a 4sec flat bushing that limits total mech to 14, initial 18: 427 Windsor 10.5:1 big valves, big cam, replica Ac coba..engine LOVES it....very light car 535 hp at 5800, 2200lbs..
Very thorough indepth detailed explanations! Awesome videos... I'm always learning from you! Thank you Can you please post a video of how to set initial and total timing? Also, if adjusting the dizzy for initial timing and then going in and adjusting the dizzy for total timing... Does this throw off initial timing?
The flex fan is a period correct look,..but as you say,…knife blades. Almost to the point where it's kind of intimidating hanging your body parts anywhere in that direction. Makes it like it's not a friendly place to hang out. I like hanging over my Mill while it's running so I changed over to electric fans set on a manual thermostat where you can set it when you want it to come on.. I like it a lot better for keeping the engines temp regulated with different regions your car is driving through. Less stress on the water pump bushing,..quicker warm up, longer belt life,..and probably an extra horse out of the deal too. I think I'm going to go with the set up your using too for my ignition upgrade. Good one..
hi i have a 350 motor with a msd ready to run distributor without ignition box . i have a guy do my timeing . he told me you never do total timing when you have a advanced canister on distributor. only initial he set it to 14 degrees . is that true what he said about total timeing thanks
I was wondering I have a 302 in my truck that was stock efi then I ripped all that out and went with holley efi I have a hei dist and never timed one that has vacuum advance so i have it plugged of i have my initial set at 10 and total at 34 so when i hook vacume advance my initial jumps up and my total does to is that supposed to happen if so how much degreeswould be to much with vac advanced hooked up what's a good number to look for with vac advanced hooked up reason for asking I have an adjustable vacume advance and dont know were to set it
Okay if possible, I need to get a definitive answer on the differences in the pickup coil used in an HEI distributer and the type used in your application. I think I read somewhere that the switching signal is stronger with the type of pickup coil you have in your dizzy. What gives?
its 4,17.22 omg,, would love,, to see a vid of you dialing in a random car ... 4,10 gears th 400 327.. your a master.. but,, all cars, are diff,, carbs,, dist,, gears.... shift points ,,
How do you like that valve cover breather? I put one of those shitty spectre CAI looking things in place of my breather hose, and it leaked oil every-damn-where. Edit: 12:42 😂
If total timing is say 34 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected, then after you reconnect the vacuum advance the total timing changes to like 40 degrees why not set it with the vacuum advance connected when you want total timing at 34?
reason being is that when you step on the gas and the manifold vacuum drops, the vacuum advance is factored out. vacuum advance is an efficiency item, where total timing usually coincides with higher load situations. vacuum advance gives more timing while the vehicle is cruising because a lean mixture takes longer to burn - generally speaking, the mixture should be fairly lean under most cruising situations - i do have a video explaining vacuum advance if that interests you. just search "thunderhead289 vacuum advance"
That is what I thought as well, however with the vacuum disconnected I have 10 degrees at idle and 34 at 2800 total advance, but when I connect vacuum I have the same at idle but my total is 42 instead of 34 at 2800 and above. I'm working on a 460, aluminum heads, stealth intake, 750 edelbrock carb,Voo Doo 267/273 dur. 540/552 lift cam headers and a holley billet distributor with msd 6a box. I was thinking of leaving the vacuum advance disconnected. I'm also using a wide band A/F meter to make adj.s to my carb. You mean a rich mix takes longer to burn don't you?
+Gadsden Viper one of two things here, you either have enough cam to idle with low enough vacuum that the advance canister is factored out, or you are on ported vacuum. You will always see the added advance when running a timing light as the engine is not under a load.
The vacuum is throttle control, not port. However are you saying when I open the throttle to check total advance that when the vacuum advance is connected it will exceed the total timing set (34) when the vacuum advance was disconnected?
Gadsden Viper I am having the same problem understanding this and started this search using the same description as in your comment. Did you find an explanation?
hello i been following you for a while i will like to ask you if you can build a motor for me? i have a 69 mustang and im looking to get about 350 to 400 HP
The best way to set timing is drive it around 45mph in top gear and give it some throttle if the engine spark rattles back the timing off a little and drive it again. When the engine spark rattles the timing is to high or you need higher octane fuel.
