I've always found if your torqueing wheels, doing it in a downward motion is better, as it forces the wheel/tyre down on to the ground and gives a better feel and grip.
2 things that work for me !!! When you remove and reinstall the rear wheel, take your 6mm Allen and stick it through the holes in the rotor jam it against the caliper either side to hold the wheel still !!! 😆😆😆😀😀😀🏍🏍🏍 also!!! 175 ft pounds is not necessary, I reinstall the nut and snug it with my 1/2 inch breaker bar!! The nut is tapered and has a safety clip , it's not going anywhere!!! 80,000 + miles on my 2 multistrada
I don't believe you can just torque down those calipers like that without centering them! There are no dowels and you need to pump the brakes a few times to center the calipers before torque them down
You thought it was hard breaking that rear nut loose before. I didn't see you put the grease on it. It's really gonna be a bitch to get it off again. Bring out your heat gun.
Hi, followed your steps for installing the front wheel with calipers. When grabbed the front brake there was no resistance, yet the calipers were tight on the rotor. After a few pumps of the brake handle the resistance came back but the brake pads are tight against the rotors and I can't move the front wheel. Any suggestions? Thx
When you remove them the pistons are naturally pushed back so you always need to pump the brakes a few times after removal to get the pads seated. If yours are locked, bleed them.
That looks like a 12 point nut and if so a regular 12 point socket of suitable size would fit. I’ve got 3/4” drive 12 point sockets that would work unless I’m missing something here?
Make sure, if you buy one of these sockets, that it’s steel. Cheaper aluminum ones can be found. Don’t bother. Expect to pay $70-$100. Edit: stock exhaust needs to be removed just like this one.
