Murray Lawnmower Transmission Clutch & Brake linkage Part 2 

There's a rubber plug on top. Cut the grease with heavy weight oil an paddle mix it. With a little effort you should be able to inject it down the hole on top of transmission

@@trollerrollerrollercoaster8391 no plug

@@joerico9461 whoever engineered a transaxle with no grease input port should be decked. That's like the newer transmissions on a car with no dipstick. Just a relief bolt.

@@trollerrollerrollercoaster8391 I hear ya

Hope this helps: Here is a link to an exploded view and a parts list that include the Murray Parking Brake parts and linkage. Click on the individual buttons marked "Motion Drive" for the exploded view and the parts list. Parts numbered 5, 6, 7, 8, 16 & 17 appear to be the parking brake parts and the exploded view shows the positioning. www.partsandservice.com/html/Murray/lt/lt38608x92c.html

Thanks for your reply and link. Part number 16 is the issue I think. When I videoed with the brake pedal all the way in I can see #16 move up and down when pulling up on the lever on the side. I have to look closer to see if there is a notch at the end of #16 to hold and engage the mower body slot when pedal is released. Something is keeping #16 from holding. Thanks again and will keep you updated in case this happens to you. Ski

I had the same problem. The gear shifter rod would not budge inside the transmission case. This is, the rod that, if starting in neutral, you rotate the shifter counter clockwise and the gears change from N to 1 to 2 to 3 and to 4. Turn it clockwise from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 to Neutral and finally to Reverse. Over the years, the shifter rod became stiffer and stiffer until it finally reached the point that I could no longer shift gears at all (and of course the rear wheels would be locked in whatever gear they happened to be in before the freeze up.). In my situation, the shifter rod that drops into the transmission case was simply bone dry and a bit corroded along the rod shaft inside the transmission case. All I had to do was spray some penetrating oil down the shaft. Really soak the shaft over a period of a few hours with the hope that a little of that lubricant will find its way down the shaft and inside the transmission case. Once a few drops of lubricant make it down the shaft, work the shifter back and forth until the rod becomes easier and easier to rotate clockwise and counterclockwise. After a few minutes with a few drops of penetrating oil, the shifter became very easy to change gears and any hard shifting and locked wheel symptoms should disappear. Your transmission is probably a Foote or a Peerless. Look up on youtube more video's that focus on servicing the Foote or Peerless riding mower transmissions. Both are nearly identical in operation and parts. Look at this at 3:50 minutes into the video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lfMmLpJoIy0.html You will see the transmission gear shifting rod at the other end of the vice grips. It rotates counterclockwise and clockwise from N to 4th and N to reverse. You do NOT need to take the tranny out of the mower to do this. Just reach under the seat or flip the lawnmower on its side so you can get access to the gear shifting rod. Then lube it up real good and work that rod slowly at first , left and right, until it loosens up. That should fix your stuck rod. Also make sure your trnasmission case has grease or oil in it. Use grease/oil with a viscosity of 00 or 000 (it's a milk shake thick grease/oil; or use at least 90 Weight gear oil (which could slowly leak out over a years time)

Actually, FIRST make sure the parking/emergency brake caliper and brake caliper pad are not engaged in the activated parking brake mode. That is, make sure the parking brake is released! Otherwise the tires will be locked from turning!

​@@takeachanceonme4 Thank you very much for your reply and help. The parking brake seems to be free, the lever under the seat doesn't seem to be doing much is sorta feels loose no friction, tension or pulling like it's not connected to anything, guess maybe I should pull the battery out or crawl underneath while someone works the rod/lever while I look see what it's doing......any other suggestions??

@@catcndu Only suggestion I can think of is to access the transmission (flip the entire mower on its side ; or do whatever you might need to do to get access to the shifting rods and links and examine each link for functionality. You might try clamping onto the transmission gear shifting rod (where it exits the transmission case) with a pair of vice grips. Rotate the gear shifting rod with the vice grips to hopefully feel some resistance or gather some sense that the gears are shifting. be sure the rear tires are off the ground; because you might want to spin the tires back and forth (such as for example when you find Neutral -- the wheels should freewheel spin) to increase the chances that you will find Neutral. If there is no resistance at all and nothing is happening to indicate that the gears are shifting, then you might have to take off the transmission, crack open its case, and see if something in the transmission case is broken. If you do crack the case open, pay complete attention to the position of each gear, each spacer, each thrust washer, and each bearing. If any of those parts are not reassembled in proper place, the transmission will never work again. The process of cracking open the two halves of the case should be done with the greatest of care and with complete and exact documentation of where every part inside the case belongs. One misplaced part will end in a failed rebuild. When the two halves come apart be sure to rinse the black sludgy grease and oil until you can finally see all the washers, bearings, spacers etc so that you can keep track of which one goes where. I have found NO exploded views that completely indicate which piece belongs where. So you will find yourself on your own if you don't keep track of which part goes where and in what order.