Murray Riding Mower Transmission Linkage part 1 (Model 38608X92C) 

Thank you for sharing your experience with the clutch rod and the idler on your Murray. I saw your Murray on your video that showed the pinched and shorted wires behind the starter motor. Incidently, I also bought the Harbor Freight 300 pound lift about a year ago when it was on sale ( I paid about $80 for it). That was one of the best and most valuable tool purchases I have made since investing in an OBD II scanner a couple of years ago. I have used that lawnmower lift nearly every day for one thing or another. At the moment I have a push mower with a 6 HP Briggs on it (I'm trying to figure out how to insert a new exhaust valve guide because its exhaust valve wobbles so much that there is a complete loss of compression.

Thanks for your questions. Yes, I did remove the battery and I did drain the petrol and I removed the mower "deck" before tilting the murray on its nose. The oil however, was still in the engine. The rear of the machine was much lighter than the front where most of the weight is under the engine. Accordingly it was not hard to simply lift by hand the rear of the lawn tractor and balance the mower on its nose. I dont recommend balancing the mower that way without blocking the steering mechanism in some manner to prevent the machine from tilting o the left or to the right and falling down. Perhaps rolling the machine on its side would be a better idea. If you do roll it on its side, I believe they recommend draining the oil, or rolling the machine on the side that is opposite the side where you fill with oil (to prevent oil from draining out of the fill tube). The hard gear change in my case (and it was very very hard to move the gear shift lever) was simply the need for some lubricant (such as a spray lubricant containing lithium where the gear shift shaft enters the gearbox. . Please note that WD 40 is NOT really an acceptable lubricant because it evaporates quickly and is useless after about a week or two) A good spray grease soaking and working back and forth of the gear shift lever returned the hard shift back to normal easy "sliding" of the gear shift lever. There was nothing wrong inside the transmission/gearbox.

does this help? www.arkansas-ope.com/MURRAY_LAWN_MOWER_SPRINGS.html also you might want to look at this link and click on the "motion and drive" option. That takes you to the parts list, which describes 2 springs. Take the spring part number and do a google search on that part number. www.partsandservice.com/html/Murray/lt/lt38608x92c.html

@@takeachanceonme4 Thank you very much!

Briggs & Stratton - exact fit -- 165x76 SEMA www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043RTNEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes to both. I drained the gas by removing the rubber fuel hose from the carb and lettting the gas flow into a container. The battery was removed too. It wouldnt hurt to block the front end firmly so that the up-ended rear of the mower doesn't wag left or right and fall over.

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks so much. I recently raised the front end up and tied to my workshop joist. This was after I removed the 14.5hp B&S to replace the sump gasket and oil seal. While up I took several videos but unfortunately did not clean off the transaxle, levers, springs, etc - just the area around where the engine sits - top and bottom of frame. My gut says it has to be something simple. I already discussed with lawn repair shop and he said he could not guarantee he could fix it or get parts. At a minimum it will be $50-$60 to transport to and from so I wanted to do everything I could to make it better. Alternative is to run after 6 mins until it stops working and buy a new mower. At 72 years old I really don’t want to do that. Thanks again, Ski

@@RogerASkiVideo Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I was traveling and finally got back home. Unfortunately I don't have any experience or suggestions regarding the hydrostatic tranny. However this link might help: www.mytractorforum.com/threads/1996-murray-with-spicer-4900-3-093264-transaxle.1347867/ and this link by "Taryl Fixes All" may be of some use: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t-XtQpHc3S0.html Skip the first 4 minutes of Taryl's link, because he does a little bit of acting before he gets to the repair stuff. I find Taryl's "how to" are very informative and reliable. He has a broad range of small engine postings and he also opened up a hydrostatic a few months ago and posted the step by step and piece by piece process. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NS61QpRZdl4.html It's a one hour long video I did find a number of additional links regarding the Spicer hydrostatics by googling "Spicer Hydrostatic" , one or more of which may be of use to you. Good luck to you and let me know what you found out. By the way, I agree with you that this fix should be well within the scope of your ability. If push comes to shove, go to one or several lawnmower graveyards and pull a replacement tranny off one of the cast offs at the graveyard. Large cities and most states have lawnmower graveyards where you can show up with some tools and pull your own. Also check ebay for used trannies of the same model. Let us know how your problem is resolved!

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks for your reply. I have watched Taryl’s videos. The one on disassembling the trans was excellent. Probably more than I can handle. Maybe if I was younger and healthier! The first link you provided is actually mine. It was the start of the movement issue. My next attempts will be remove deck and drive belt. Measure the belt and see if actually 1/2” x 86”. If not I will go to mower repair shop and buy a Murray belt. Then install belt and recheck all linkages and make sure there is a gap in slot of clutch pedal. 3/8” to 1/2” - if not adjust clutch rod nut. While the belt is off inspect clutch rod lever to make sure moves properly. Other than that we’ll see. Have a delay right now due to weather and preparing taxes! Thank goodness the grass doesn’t need mowing! haha I will post progress. Thanks again, Ski

It sounds to me like a problem at the end of the shifter shaft inside the transmission case. The Foote, Dana and Spicer transmissions are very much the same in design. You might want to search the many youtube videos under the search words Foote, Dana or Spicer transmissions. Just for example, here is one that might help. Within the video is some info on the shifter plate, spring loaded balls, and the need for lubrication. Perhaps you are experiencing a problem with any one or more of those items? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2v6QCUTiGa8.html

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks. I watched the video suggested. I'm afraid all that is beyond my capabilities. I was sure hoping it would be an easy fix. I believe I have already eliminated those! I just don't know if I can get into the transaxle. Thanks for your time and advice.

@@kimatkinson5162 at 22:55 in that video i posted in my response to you yesterday, he shows two flat head screw adjustments next to the shifter rod. Is it possible that adjusting those screws might bring the gears to shift once again?

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks. I will see about that. Keeping my fingers crossed

@@kimatkinson5162 this video shows the shifter shaft and the shifter plate located inside the transmission case. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YGqD-QXsoxI.html It gives you a good idea as to what is inside the case. Always a good idea to keep the shaft well lubricated. Perhaps a healthy dose (or 3) of penetrating oil (like wd-40) applied where the shaft enters the transmission case. A lot of people, including me, have binding requiring a lot of force to change gears. In my case and in the case of the video above, lubrication of the gear shifting shaft is critical to its easy operation. As you work the shaft back and forth, make sure the shaft itself is moving clockwise and counterclockwise, and not just the handle. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YGqD-QXsoxI.html