Just ordered the equivalent tool for my turbo 3v. Was re-timing the engine and noticed a keeper was missing. I have the OTC tool but this one looks like it'll work much better. Thanks for this demonstration.
No worries man. I had the same issue when researching my cam install. Be mindful of lash adjustment when putting everything back together. I had an issue with that but the car still ran. I just didn’t adjust everything properly so I ran into some snags. Thanks for viewing.
P0LYPRO yeah man. It works wonders. I had video of the whole process but didn't realize I wasn't recording half of it because my camera was reversed. This tool makes the job super easy. It gets a little tight in the back on drivers side, but not too bad.
TheUltimateCrash the retainers look like small round washers with a lip on the inside rim. I screwed up and deleted half my videos and missed the middle part lol. I did the best I could with editing what I had. Thanks for watching.
TheUltimateCrash I rewatched this again. 4:10 shows the new retainer. It sits on top of the spring and valve seal goes underneath and is all held together with keepers locking them in
You put compressed air into the cylinder and that holds the valves shut so they don't fall into the cylinder, they make a adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and hooks to a air compressor hose.
Shawn Grage I actually tried that but I guess I was having trouble with my compressor because it wasn’t holding enough pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves up, or the valve seals weren’t great. Using the piston to hold them up worked fine though. I should gone to that before putting rope in the cylinder but you live and you learn.
Cant find anything on this job besides doing the seals themselves which i can do, only question i have which i hope will be answered is pulling the cams out. Can i just pull the cams out or do i have to time the cams before i take them out ? Help would be much appreciated what steps are imvolved with taking cams out
Zbskater400 I used a paint marker to mark all the gears and chains and just matched them back up when I reinstalled everything. Keep your chains and gears separate so you don’t mix them up and you should be ok.
Lolo123 Morales if you're talking about the chain guides, then yes. If you're digging into it like I did and have more than 75,000 miles, you should go ahead and swap out chains and guides to be safe. They start to break between 90k and 120k depending on how lucky you are.
You should bring each piston to the top of the cylinder you’re working on to prevent the valve from falling down into the head. I tried the air compressor method, but it didn’t work well for me which is why I went with the method I used. It worked fine the way I did it.
carlos stuart Dude, I run Cecil County Mustangs. We have a lot of people from the Lancaster area and all around there. We are on Facebook. Check out my other vids to see the cruises and track days and shit.
hey Shawn nice video. are you from pa ? i see Cecil drag way so I was wondering. so question is do you have another video on the cam install? am thinking about trying to do this but I don't know if I have to degree the cams and all the tools to do it. I appreciate any info you my give me. it would be cool if I could meet and see some of your mods on your mustang.
carlos stuart I was living in Philly before, but now live in Cecil County. I don't have any other videos unfortunately. I originally started doing this job and first half of the video was deleted by accident so it got chopped up a bit. I didn't degree the cams but I know others who sent their cams and gears to Modular Head Shop and got them degreed and shipped back ready for install. ASAP Automotive in Ephrata PA finished the job off for me because I was too busy to work on it. Where are you from ?
Brian M Correct. The valve will only drop like an 1/8th of an inch. If you’re working alone on it, you can put like a long dowel in there and watch while you’re turning the crank for it to stop rising. Always do a visual check to be sure.
Dave Smith nope. Everything is good to go. Rev it up through 6800 RPMs no problem too. I upgraded the valve springs to Beehive springs with titanium retainers.
I've seen your post on Cecil county mustangs and your car sounds great, would you recommend this tool? I'm going to do a set of valve springs and like the way it's set up. My engine will be on a stand so it might be a little easier to use
Oh yeah, definitely. Unless you're taking the heads off the motor, this would be the best tool to use. Regardless, this tool makes compressing the springs super simple and super quick. Once I got things sorted out, I was able to change valve springs in about 3 minutes/ea.
Pull all the spark plugs so you have no compression. Then shine a light in each cylinder before you work on it and watch for the piston to come up to the top.
Copy and paste this into Amazon search and it’ll come up. PQY Engine Valve Spring Compressor Tool Compatible with Ford Mustang GT F150 4.6L 5.4L 2V Romeo Windsor Lincoln Mercury Red
You have to use the correct springs for your application. They only seat at one height. Spring height just changes tension. The beehives are taller than stock so it’s a stiffer spring rebound. The valve seats and retainers lock in at one height. You would never go to a smaller spring than stock because it would effect the way the valves open and close.
You can see the tops of the pistons when you have the plugs out. All you have to do is shine a light down into the spark plug hole and watch where the piston is. The reason you wanna do that is to ensure the valve doesn’t fall into the motor. Once you remove the valve keepers and let the valve fall, the pistol will hold the valve up so you can work on it. The tolerance is small enough to prevent the valve from falling into the motor.
