I won my first auction bidding on Copart! This is my experience. I hope that some of you can learn from this, and have a better understanding of what to expect when bidding. Follow me on Instagram : @Driftdaddyz
thank you for this. I didn't realize the buyer fee was mandatory. I interpreted the fees as if you are bidding online you only pay the $79 online bid fee. That extra $500 makes a big difference. basically a $1500 car becomes $2500. Might as well lowball a bunch of people on used cars and skip all of the copart hassle and unknowns.
IF you buy from a reseller these days its usually scammers. good luck. Copart you can go and see the cars without some guy trying to hide stuff from you.
Thanks for this video, I was in a wreck where my BMW was totaled and looking to find something that's not expensive and no more car notes, this was helpful
Your video the first of all which contained clearly calculation how much does Copart car costs. Thanks a lot! I hope your RU-vid channel is keep growing! If you need some advice how to edit video, just let me know. Take care! :-)
Great looking car, bought a couple from down in SA Copart and bid on a few up in austin. What I do when I bid, is have my excel spreadsheet that automatically calculates the total cost with all the fees and breaks out the fees by line item but also gives me the % of the sale for total fees. My rule of thumb is the fees can't be more than 30% of the total sale, because at the end of the day, it's still a salvage vehicle.
Thanks for sharing the details and yes you did a great job teaching green horns. Also it was very smart on your part to not give in during the fake negotiation where the rip-off begins. Real smart and handy dad.
I bought a '95 DeVille from CoPart a few years ago with a $150 bid, after fees it was $350. It was still not a bad price, but paying more that the bid just in fees is ridiculous. Plus, you have to be careful when you are talking to the people at CoPart. I recently went to the one in KC KS to look at a car before bidding and the people there had no clue about anything, including Kansas law when it comes to buying a totaled car. I ended up calling the CoPart in Wichita KS while in the KC office to get the correct answers. This pissed off the people at that office, and I didn't even bother bidding on the car.
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad I heard the part where you willingly paid seller over bid price *despite* the auto tranny. And missed the 'frame damage' - just bumper support?- You seem like a joker to me thumbs down
Definitely find you a frame guy if you are gonna resell it. You want to pull the damaged area back to its original position and that will pull your dent out of the quarter panel
I used to buy rebuilder 240z's, 260z and 280z's in the early and mid 80's in sacramento. That was long before salvage titles. I used brazing rods to weld on frame rails lol. They always passed safety inspection and i never lost money on them. Not many guys were doing it back then but the cars were still kind of pricey. Nowdays it seems youtube is full of guys getting these copart cars and rebuilding. I think you have to be very patient to find a buyer for a salvage title car because there are some nervous nancy's that are absolutely terrified of rebuilt cars. Watching the comments on sam cracks channel when he welded the r8 aluminum shock tower was hilarious. Things like "omg its a death trap" and "its going to fail at high speed and eveyone in the car will die!" Nowdays i pick up cars with mechanical problems like broken timing belt or bad head gasket on craigslist or facebook. Its alot less hassle
One thing that may not be obvious to some ... Copart fee he showed you $595 is because he is individual buyer who paid with credit card. It is the most expensive but if the car turns out to be significantly different from description (a real possibility), then you can fight Copart with your credit card issuer. In case you pay with money order, you are done, zero option. There were cars that advertised 'run and drive'. When the winner picked it up, the clutch pedal (a part of manual shifting) was missing. Yeah, that's run and drive
You made it so clear I am really trying to get into flipping cars seems Copart will take my money Do you know any other auctions that does not require a dealer license or anything ?? Thanks
Hope you get a body shop to inspect that under carriage. I suspect that car was crunched pretty good and somebody did some work on it showing the minimal amount of damage you pointed out. Some of your video could have been shorter but overall good especially you sharing the costs. Good luck with the car. I've been watching copart cars myself for the past couple of weeks
They can't do that on a pure sale. There's no "pending approval", there's no reserve. The vehicle sells at whatever the highest bid is, unless they have people bidding on it as well to raise the price but they might get screwed if they end up with the highest bid and now have to pay all the fees.
Moreover, you should know the whole history of the vehicle you want to buy. We can help you with that. Our company epicvin.com/ provides vehicle history reports. We are also ready to offer a new unlimited offer. This is unlimited vehicle history reports that are currently being sold at salvage auctions.
3:58 top left appears to be all split and pushed up, which may explain the rear trunk being out of alignment and the under carriage damage. You cant just but a copart car, wash it and flip it.
Why can’t you buy a copart car, wash it and flip it? That seems to be what the salvage auto dealerships do. These dealerships don’t even disclose the title status hoping someone uninformed comes in and buys it. I actually bought a prior salvage car this summer from a private party and googled the vin. Pictures came up, they did no body repairs on it. However they did spend about $2500 in mechanical repairs not related to the accident, which is why I bought it.
I don’t understand .. at 1:45 you said the transmission shifts perfectly and it was all good.. but then you found out it was an automatic at 4:40 and it was a huge problem? Is the automatic trans a good thing or bad thing.. because if it was bad that should’ve been a big sad face from the get go lol
You can visit any copart location and pay with a secured payment even if the car is at another location. Also watch out that copart is no longer giving you 5 days to pick up. Now you get 3 days to pay and only 3 days to pick up before accruing a storage fee.
They say the gate fee is for the forklift drivers to deliver your car. Although it seems that the forklifts are damaging a lot of the cars so doesn’t quite seem fair.
Question, in the case of reserve prices. It seems that copart has bidding fees on the auction. If you decide not to buy for the reserve price, are you still liable for the "bid fees?"
I just joined copart not a dealer just got the basic 1000 dollar free package is it worth getting premium package what’s the difference I literally joined an hour ago
Very curious about this, but a huge bummer as my state requires a license to bid and purchase these. Colorado... anyone know roughly how much a car bonds guy charges to help you purchase a vehicle?
Most ins company put reserves because. 1. High storage fees, towing fees paid to body shop. 2. Looks like repairs where almost completed and on reinpection they found that buckle on the frame so ins had to pay part of repairs to body shop. End results who made out like a bandit was towing, storage yard, and body shop. The owner probably paid 5 years on his 33k to end up with out a car Big biz wins little end user looses
when you sign up do you have to type in your drivers license or send a copy I didn't understand the sign up I want to go and look around to see if I can find something
bumper support 🤣 my dude thats the rail haha that’s exactly why it totaled that dent is probably a buckle on the quarter because the rear end is pushed forward, other then the structural damage it looks good
flopez425 I see what you’re saying. I was reluctant to say frame bc of the location it has absolutely no affect on how the car handles or drives. Probably right about the quarter panel.
@@DIYD_Do_It_Yourself_Dad It does look like a rail and its buckled but still I could get that pulled and fixed for a grand or so here.Not a bad buy nonetheless.
I noticed that the sales receipt says "CC Auth..." on the right side, did you pay with a credit card? Just a heads up, the fees are higher if you pay with a "non-secured" payment method, when would put you under schedule D in their member fee chart. Schedule D is the worst. If you are not a business ( car dealer or junk yard operator ), Schedule C is your cheapest option. Schedule C is "secured payment". Difference between the two, is that "non-secured" is things that can potentially be disputed, such as credit cards, and "secured" payments are payments that cannot be disputed, such as cash money, cashier's check, money order, etc...A few months ago I was at Copart waiting in line to pay for my purchase, and the guy in front of me was having trouble. He had a cashier's check for his purchase, but it turns out that his check was $13 short. So he tried to make up the difference with a $20 bill. "We don't have change sir" So he tried to pay the $13 with his credit or debit card, "That will work, but we're going to have to charge you (X) dollars instead of $13 because by paying with a credit card, the entire payment is now Schedule D instead of C". He ended up having to leave Copart, go about a block over to some mom 'n pop restaurant, get change, and wait in line again, the line took me over an hour of wait. Also that location doesn't accept cash over $400. I've been told that some locations don't accept cash at all. So if you're $1 short, you have to completely replace the cashier's check, or pay with a credit card which will fall under the higher fees of schedule D. I'm not sure about debit cards, if they're schedule C or D. UPDATE: I'm a dunce, I should have watched the rest of the video before commenting, you already answered most of my questions.
@James Pack, I edited my post, at the end I had explained that I failed to see the entire video and apologized for not watching the video to the end before commenting. But thank you.
nice vid man, here in Canada i would say 80% bid are on approval. so yeah seeing a pure sale is like winning a lottery :) i bought my 2013 Scion FRS on pure sale for $2300 and 2017 VW Golf on Approval for $2950. they asked $4500. but i kept my bid low. i had a feeling that they would give up eventually. looking forward for next vid. heres a sub...
Here in Saskatchewan we have sgi salvage which is Saskatchewan government insurance (the only only insurance available here) and I won the bid for a 2005 nissan altima ser at 1460, after taxes i paid just over 1500. I'd recommend checking out sgi salvage and making a trip up to grab a car from that auction. Comparing the cost in gas to get the car from sgi and the hidden fees at copart, i would make the drive anytime.
Unsecure payment/ aka visa might be able to get you out of paying for a car all together if you catch kopart in a lie. Not sure about the legalities but I have used visa to get my money back on a t.v. that didn't work that a (large store) didn't want to take back. Maybe that's why the fees are so much? Idk, something to look into.
Kilmer bought a truck for his son with a rusted out frame. The joke is on Scotty for not doing research on the vehicle and not doing what he tells other people to do when buying a used car.
Is there a nationwide auction place you'd recommend or a better company? I live in Colorado and use to live in Corpus Christi and really don't want to drive out fly back to Texas but want to buy some vehicles for fun projects.
Hey, What's up Driftdaddyz? I used to have a 2006 z bought a bunch of parts for it and 5 years later I sold it and stuck with the parts. I wonder if your interested in buying all that parts. (body kit, lowering springs, camber kit front and back, a brand new pair of a headlight, and rotor breaks)
Good video. Really appreciate watching your Copart experiences. Copart fees are a real cash grab. Ebay is a good place to find cars, and with no fees for buyers. But ebay auctions usually sell for a premium. Copart is a great resource, but the nickel and diming final Invoice with long list of fees, charges and surcharges is a real turn-off. The "on approval" feature is ridiculous. Either have a Reserve, or not. Either sell with fixed Buy-It-Now price, or not. But with "on approval" the seller takes no risk. That is not what an auction is. Can't believe Copart still has this feature, solely for the benefit of Copart and seller. Read: Heads, seller and Copart WINS, tails buyer LOSES" As a buyer, I don't like those one-sided odds. Ever play poker when a player wins big once, then gets up and leaves the game taking all the $. Doesn't go over well...
I see this is 8 mths old.. but, I stumbled onto CoPart just ystrdy. I have to ask the same question as Layth... from the Insurance Company's ?????? Please elaborate....
Nice car drift dad. So when I'm bidding, I have an excel spreadsheet open and as I enter a bid it automatically calculates all the fees and what percentage they are of the total cost, plus it gives me a total including fees plus titling costs, plus taxes. My rule is I never buy anything but pure sales and never buy when fees exceed 30% of the total cost. Its kept me honest when the bidding frenzy starts and I look at that bottom line number and % of fees in big bold red numbers. Really nice car and best of luck on your next purchase.
@@oldmoneyclub I can I actually finally uploaded a video showing what I use: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MguDTlQxPJQ.html . This is what I used to keep from getting that "sticker shock" when picking up my Copart vehicle.
That final cost is very surprising to me. It should have come out to no more than around $2,900 out the gate. I live in California and I bid on cars through a friend of mine who happens to have a dealer license. The last car I won was a 2010 Nissan Maxima with 99k miles, the car was only vandalized and had scratches all over. Winning bid was $2,750 and after Copart's fees, it only came out to $3,178 which is less than that 350z even with a higher winning bid. I was not charged sales tax and don't ask me why because I have no clue.
Still a bargain for a great little car. What was the issue with it regarding the interior, think I missed it and didn’t see anything obvious. London, uk
