I have an older Festool track saw (corded). My version has 2 splinter guards. One is the long white plastic on the track--what you initially cut away when you added the second track. But the other splinter guard is on the saw itself (at least on my version). It is a piece of plastic insert on the front right side of the saw that you raise and lower. What you do is lower that splinter guard insert on the saw to the top face of the wood. The first time you use it the saw will cut it to the right length. I've used the same saw for about 9 years and have not had any issues. I use the saw for fine cuts and do NOT sand the edge (otherwise you round over the nice cut the saw just made). One thing I use the Festool track saw for is to rough cut all my pieces for a project then do the final dimensioning at the table saw. But yes, when I first got the Festool track saw I was also blown away. It's a Plunge saw which means you can set it flush to the floor. It ALSO does 45° cuts (for example) without needing to fuss around with where to lay the track to the line. But as for splintering, you should try to lower the splinter guard of the saw itself. But you'll need to label the guard you "cut" because once you cut 1/2" material it won't work well for 3/4" material, if that makes sense. The splinter guard is lower to the face of the wood and sometimes you cut enough off that it won't touch the face anymore.
I love my makita track saw, TSO square and parallel guide. Built all of my kitchen and laundry cabinet boxes with it. One tip on joining tracks (with the makita connectors): I tried multiple different ways to join them and screwed up a ton of long cuts in the process but I found a way that works perfect every time. Take a 4ft aluminum level and put in on your bench, bottom facing up. Make sure the set screws are fully tightened to one of the tracks. Join the tracks and get the joint dead center on top of the level with the rubber cut strip facing up. Pull/push down on both rails at the center of the level. While you have weight on both, tighten down the remaining set screws. Yes, they will dent the aluminum, no its not a big deal. I have not used the TSO connectors but the makita connectors will not self-align.
Ben FWIW we build a lot of cabinets…lots of plywood to break down. You can’t count on factory edges being square, parallel, or even straight. Last year we had a whole unit of maple veneer 3/4 ply where the long edges had an 1/8” bow…out on one edge in on the other like a very slight “C” shape!! Didn’t matter BC we always true up one edge w a track saw before breaking it down, but still… This was expensive domestic plywood too.
Just got my first track saw… a Makita refurb and I bought PowerTec tracks. Super affordable (as far as track saws go) setup. Absolutely love it! Can’t believe I went this long without one!
You need to lift the far end of the track, then push the square against the edge and lower the track down from the square to the far end. If you put it down before squaring it, the grips make it hard to get it square.
Perfect! The other videos were comparing them. I'm not that far down the road. I'm in the discovery stage of how they are used. I didn't know there was such a thing until I talked to my cousin who is a builder turned trimmer who when he analyzed things, trimming out was the part he loves, so he decided he'd rather sub for that and has been kept as busy as a cat on a tin roof and says the only thing he does is new. When I started asking him questions about a remodel project and talking saws, I mentioned a good miter saw and table saw might be what I need. He said, any miter saw will work, it's just learning how to use to get your cuts right and told me how to use scraps and shim to get the angle right and joints tight. However, he said what I would be a lot happier with is a good track saw without going crazy, and mentioned the Makita. He said track saws are portable, don't take up much room when you store them, and handier, especially when you are doing a cross-cut on a door or piece of plywood. I see nothing but positive reviews for the Festool cordless but not the corded models. Since this isn't my day job, I won't be buying the vacuum, but that clamping system is a must.
@PhelebasMaybe he didnt' buy it with his own money, but nonetheless, he has tasted it. It's like a gate-way drug. That's the way it went down with me too :0)
Glad you're liking it and happy you got it for free as it's an expensive saw! Two thing you need to try: 1. Bluetooth sync to the dust extractor so you don't need to manually turn it on/off 2. Portable dust bag attachment - it is surprisingly great at dust collection and handy when you don't want to bring the dust extractor along.
Great saw especially ru-vid.comUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.
I recommend cutting on top of a thick piece of foam insulation, big time. Material won't slide, material is fully supported preventing binding, and you can cut into it all you want baby
@@vancouvercarpenter Another benefit: you can cut on the ground/floor and still fit the rapid clamp underneath due to the foam clearance and the clamp's folding handle. No sawhorses needed. Granted, it's not a real mobile solution if you keep the whole sheet of foam intact.
I like your videos and have learned a lot of good tips on drywall. I find that hose and cord management is the only annoying thing with the track saw. But that’s a small price to pay for the no dust and great cuts. One “tip” that has helped me manage the vac hose is instead of just grabbing the saws handle I reach under the hose then grab the handle so the hose somewhat rests on my forearm. I know that my description may not be great but when I do this the hose doesn’t immediately droop down and it helps with getting the cut started and you don’t need to immediately move the hose with your other hand to keep it from getting hung up. Hope this makes sense. Again I appreciate the videos.
Fun to watch to pro being the happy kid with a new tool! Breaking down plywood and handling the smaller pieces is the way to go. I have some pieces of 1/2 inch OSB that are notched so I can throw together a support structure ( 2 pieces @ 8 feet, and foot 4 pieces @ 4 feet ) to make the pieces interlock standing on edge. It’s a nice complement to a jig like this.
Oh no…. Festool invasion!!!! Track saws are just awesome. Great for breaking down sheets and certain cuts. It will never replace a table saw but will is just fantastic for what it does
Love my Festool saw - a bit of a learning curve but for working with sheet goods off the back of your truck its amazing. Makita tracks work nice and you can by a couple super long makita tracks for less than one short festool track(esp on sale) and cut them to sizes you need. I bought the dust collection bag because I didn’t want hoses and more noise etc and it actually works pretty good for most applications except at the end of cut.
Ben, The small amount of tear out on the waste side of the wood is because the green anti-splinter guard was not attached to the track saw. ( It is a little green square piece that slips into the slot near the leading edge of the blade.)
Came here to say exactly this. Ben, you will get in a rhythm using the green splinter guard up/down. Even when you have it installed it is easy to forget sometimes and you get a little occasional tearout. Oh and one other thing having the green splinter guard down improves dust collection. You can improve collection even more if you cover the window by the blade. I used to use 2 pieces of wide masking tape until my friend 3D printed a plug cover I downloaded from www.thingiverse.com/thing:1888723
It's important to use a long straight edge when combining the rails. I've tried a couple different corded ones from Festool and they are beautiful! I've also tried the 18Vx1, which is not that great
One possible reason there's a slightly different measurement on each end using the square, could be because your material itself may not be perfectly square.
yep, best practice is make the first cut with just the track, take off the entire factory edge, then square it off. If you dont trust the track to hold square over 8ft, you can take the long edge off first, then make a parallel line on the other long edge, then square off each short edge. This will avoid compounding small deviations.
@@walnutcontractors5661 where r u referencing on a crooked board in order to create the straight line in the first place? It’s not like u can use a speed square cause all 4 lengths on the board r crooked to begin with.
@@borys444 as long as you have a straight edge (2x4 or screed or caulk line), then you just create a straight line and you can then create straight lines from that first line you've layed out. You'd finish each off cut by squaring the cross cuts.
Setting the on-board splinter guard situated at the front of the saw, will reduce tear-out on the waste side. As mentioned in the instruction book :-). A patch of masking tape over the blade-nut access hole will reduce dust still further. In the UK, privateers offer 3-D printed plastic stoppers for this hole.
Track saws are amazing. It's like having a panel saw on the jobsite. I've been using the Makita version for a few years on kitchen installs and it's irreplaceable. You don't need to clamp down the track as long as you push the saw straight forward and you don't go too fast. You have to let the saw do the work. I have a square attachment but I only use it with the 55" track. You want to measure for long cuts because the square attachment isn't very accurate for those - too much deflection in the track itself. Once you get used to it it's fast and accurate. A sharp blade is a must... and make sure you don't install it backwards, it doesn't cut too well 🤣 - don't ask me how I know!
Holy sh*t, Vancover Sheetrock guy doing some carpetry, hehe. Anyways the 108" rail is best for ripping full sheets, two 55" rails together can be a problem with alignment especially what blade you used to cut the splinter guard with. Careful with those screws on the connectors, you will dig into that rail channel big time. I now own both the 55 and 75 corded, both saws are great...
Oh forgot, the one handed rapid clamp, only way to go plus the TSO guide is great as well, doing smaller crosscuts, no clamp needed with the TSO guide. Had the odler model 55 since '06, the new clear splinter guard replacements suck, nothing like the old black ones. Now when it's time to replace, I go with Makita splinter guards, they hold much better even in the hot summer...
I am glad you used TSO trying to cut over 8 ft length. First time I have seen it on RU-vid used to cut 8ft and it shows accuracy problem over such a length. Probably can't get better than 1/8". But for cuts under 30", for most cabinet work, TSO is very accurate and worth the money especially for production work.
Since he didn't establish that the sheet was square to begin with, there is no proof. Had he trimmed a long edge first, then used the square on a short edge to ensure a square corner, only then can you try to determine if you can or can't use the TSO square on an 8' rip like that. What he did was prove nothing.
I remember the first time I used my track saw. After the first cut I said why did I wait so long to get a track saw. 🤦🏻♂️ definitely want to add a cordless variant to my arsenal.
The pre-finished sheet goods are slightly oversized so you can have margins for scribe lines and so you can cut off factory edges if needed. As you are discovering Festool designs as a system, not just individual tools. You pay more but typically work less. The time you save quickly pays offsets the higher prices.
You seem very enthousiastic. Lucky for you, there's a lot more fruit to pick. Get yourself a sacrificial table with holes, some dogs, a few more of those clamps, a fence with flag stops, ...
Thanks for this in depth review of the track system. I've been contemplating acquiring this tool. The name Festool reminds me of Marshall Matt Dillon's little sidekick😄
Festus on Gunsmoke wasn’t that little. He was 6’0”. James Arness (Matt Dillon) was 6’7”, so Festus just looked little beside Dillon. Of course I’m 5’6” on a good day so EVERYONE is tall to me.😂
When connecting tracks, do not let them touch...keep a small space to allow the connectors to perform as designed. Use the saw shoe guide evenly over the seam and tighten the first set of screws. Flip and do the others.
For future reference--that long plastic splinter guard on the track will get dinged up and eventually you will need to replace it. I've done that only once in about 8 years. Not hard to do and then you're set for a long time.
Track saws are one of those tools you didnt know how much you needed until you owned one. You dont need those clamps usually. The tracks should just stay put on their own
The excess is also used to allow for trimming factory edge… and this also helps use tso square be square… plywood is not always square from the factory
Not redundant if you use the vacuum hose (?). What I've found is that vacuum hose catches on the end so having that rounded plastic end piece would be great. I just don't know if it will fit my track which is about 8 years old.
Firsr time I ever used my tracksaw, I put the track on the waste side & cut my workpiece short by the kerf thickness ... 🙄 THAT never happened again... 😂 Using a sheet of insulation underneath is a good idea... u can let it cut a 1/4" deeper and not worry.....
I use my table saw for completely different things to my track saw. They have overlapping capabilities, but I do a wide range of carpentry work, and the table saw is indispensable for interior and exterior trim work, the track saw is amazing for cabinets, plywood lining, easing doors, and cutting wet wall linings for bathrooms. Tracksaws excell at cutting sheet goods, but my table saw allows me to manufacture my own trim profiles on the fly, rebate the back of finishing lines, cut to a scribed line freehand, and rip down lumber to specific sizes.
If you leave the track connectors loose and then use a 4 ft level to level them out before you tighten down the connectors you will be sure it is cutting strait. My Makita tracks can get off a slight bit and it adds up over 8 feet. Another tip is you can store the track connectors on the track when not in use by simply sliding them out of the way and tighten them.
Another tip: I use JB kwikweld to stick a big neodymium magnet to the bed of the saw, to hold the hex wrenches for blade changes and for rail connectors.
I have used it, its square to 1/16 easy, usually 1/32. However, you cant just flop it on there. You need to use a good bit of force and shimmying to get it to settle cleanly on the straight edge.
@@thatf_inguy8220 In addition, one must ensure that the long and short edges used for reference, are actually perpendicular to each other, before attempting to work off them. High quality plywood have factory edges generally close to being square, but not always.
So what is the final, as used cost for this saw? I need a table saw, but space and storage is problem. Have been considering one of these saws, if for no other reason, when not in use it doesn’t take up much space. Plus this is much easier on transport. And seeing it can make veneer ready cuts, this is the saw I want.
Check out Pica dry pencils...no going back and very accurate. Also, learn how to use the splinter guard for two sided protection of a cut...comes with the kit. Never use it on a bevel however. You've got a really great saw there, good luck with it and I'm sure you'll master it quick!
Important, never put your saw on the ground. Sand Will mess up your track, and your saw. I usualy put it on the close lid of the systainer. Good luck with your New saw👍
Track saws are awesome Ben. I don’t have a fancy festool one lol but the dewalt flexvolt one and works well for me. The only thing I notice on the first cut you made you had the track on the wrong side of your mark so you lost the kerf thickness cause I’ve made that same mistake before. If your going for a 24” piece make sure your track lays on that piece and it keeps your dimension right and the kerf is lost on the opposite side. Look forward to seeing more projects that you do with it👍
@@vancouvercarpenter you can also buy a 'waste-side' jig that allows for the kerf when setting down the track if you need to measure and cut from that side. Peter Millard does some great videos on track saws and uses these jigs from time to time.
Can't complain if you can get a Festool saw for free, the 90 Degree Guide Rail Square is for cross-cutting and not as useable as the Guide Rail Combination Bevel. The Festoon track saw is cheaply built with only one ball bearing supporting the saw blade. I paid for mine so I bought a Makita, has 2 precision sealed ball bearings supporting the saw blade and although will only run with 2 batteries attached unlike the Festool. The Festoon with only one battery struggles and stalls trying to rip 1/2" marine ply.
The sheet goods are over sized to allow you to square up the sheet to a perfect, square 48x96 finished sheet. The reason your TSO attachment was reading out of square is, as you noted in the video, the plywood itself was manufactured out of square. The reason CNC machines in cabinet shops shave a 1/4 inch around the edges when cutting panels is the same. I was always taught to shave one long side, then use that as a reference to cut a squared short side, then square all other measurements from there. This was on a sliding table saw, but your track saw is essentially a bare bones portable version of that.
Lol....sorry😀😀 It's different!...and awesome. You're hooked! After 40 years I made the switch, and it took me a few weeks or so before it feels natural.
Tracksaws are awesome.... like having a high quality cabinet saw on site without the headache of lifting it..... that being said that Festool setup costs as much as decent quality cabinet saw.
Game changers - get yourself a 10' track.. well worth the investment. I wonder if the extra size is due to the sheets being imported from Europe and the size being 2450mmx1225mm rather than the 2440x1220 that 8'x4' is?..
