My Nvidia SHIELD Remote Stopped Working | Won't Pair | Not Fair 

Stupid Remote Control

Found a couple posts via reddit that it may simply be an issue where the remote or the shield itself needs resetting. They said: Remove the back cover of the Nvidia Shield remote Take out one of the batteries Hold down the center “select” button and the home button at the same time While still pressing both of those buttons, reinsert the battery that was taken out and then continue to hold the buttons If this is done correctly, shortly after you reinsert the battery, you should hear a beeping sound Now unplug, then replug the power from the back of the Nvidia Shield, this will turn the Shield on without the remote. Try clicking some buttons to help re-pair the remote. Give the remote up to 30 seconds-1 minute to re-pair with the Nvidia Shield. and another said: In the end, key was in physically unplugging power on Shield unit. So to be clear, I only had to do the following: take out old batteries put in new return battery tray into remote start pairing by pressing either home+back (circle+triangle) buttons then while it's searching unplug and plug back in power on Shield After Shield booted remote stopped blinking, and started working.

Misc comment here, but putting a romantic music in while watching a circuit board through a microscope is a thing only Steve can pull through. :D Awesome!

If you think your batteries have been shorted, take them out relatively quickly and measure the voltage. Watch for a minute, if you see the battery voltage climbing it’s a sign. Under normal use in circuits the rebound shouldn’t be very high, if it is it’s a sign the battery is developing excess internal resistance and is failing.

Two videos in one day? Nice!

From one Steve to another, you gave it a good go. Your videos have inspired me to try my hand at repairs!

Swap the IR led for a regular colour led. You could also connect an oscilloscope to that output and check the pwm signal from the chip. I think a scope would benefit your channel

2.8V is too low for most 3V lithium cell devices. Below 3.0V the battery is usually considered flat. Try powering it from a bench power supply at 3.2V and see if it's working, what's the current draw and where it gets hot.

No experience of this remote but my experience with other similar devices was bad contact between the pcb 'spots' and the button caps. Peeling back the plastic overlay and cleaning the button capa and their equivalent pcb contact (ipa on cotton bud) fixed my issues.

I would recommend giving the battery half a really good look. It could be something thats only shorted once placed in the case. Also, that shorted rail is incredibly suspicious. Maybe one of the button contacts is still shorted without the plastic bit on?

Everyone needs a Steve in their life

I remember hearing infrared signals through guitar pickups. Not sure if you've got those around, but it can confirm signals.

You gave it a good go Steve. I have one of these and hope it doesn't develop the same problem 😕I definitely would have given up trying to get the thing open!

I’ve seen those blue SMD components on Wi-Fi and Bluetooth circuits and with antennas connected they were measuring as a ‘short’ also. I think this is part of the Bluetooth antenna circuit and isn’t the problem.

You could see if the IR is constantly on using a phone camera, and/or check if it's getting power at all with a voltmeter.

Add voltage with PS and use the thermal cam on the other side like you did the button side while pressing button and as far as inferred draining just aim a camera with night vision at it see if its emitting all the time with voltage.

Batteries out and inject voltage at the shorted rail (1V, 2V) and look again with your thermal cam. Your powersupply has more power than these batteries. Maybe this can help you.

you cheeked for voltage at the entry points but does the voltage actually goes into the board towards the chips? had one similar problem with a remote and a power rail was discontinued so there was no actual power on the board itself... the current is too low for something like a capacitor to blow up, I think. and a chip going bad is very unlikely

if the board itself is not drawing current, but the batteries are obviously being drained, then maybe there's something shorted on the battery sled

What type of flux do you use? Thanks

first time i see this secons channel? but why? .... i mean double the steve double the fun, as the saying goes

I thought flat button cells like 2032 are 3v each? So why no 6v feed..they never run in parallel bu5 in series so should not be 2.8v to the board but 6v on the positive..so inject 6v to the board..

Steve, it was two 3V batteries. It was testing at 2.8 Volts for both. Shouldn't you have replaced the batteries first? It won't make a difference because you have a short but you should start with working batteries.

Why not voltage injection into shorted line? You got tools - lab power supply and thermal cam. Shorted element would be pin-pointed in seconds.

I think you can turn on electricity by power supply, 3 volt and more amps (than in battary). Than you will see in infrared thermometer a spot with a short.

Stupid remote control. Can't wait to see the fix if you ever figure it out.

9:20 One of those plastic membrane sheets for the remote looked a little damp. This happened with my roku remote... nothing would work. I cleaned off all the liquid and the remote worked like a charm. Maybe there was some liquids that got spilled in the remote or the adhesive from one of those plastic membrane sheets is making it short out. Try cleaning those sheets without removing any of the metal membranes and it may work. Only issue is the membranes will not have adhesive, unless you find an adhesive replacement that works. For what it counts, my roku remote has zero adhesive on its membrane sheets and they still work, even the volume controls work now.

Never mind Steve you can’t win them all keep them coming 😊

Pressure switches are a real PITA.... with the plastic removed and switch covers, you could check for voltage on the inner and outer rings....

This background music made my wife come over to my office to see exactly what I was watching...

You win some, you lose some, but you live to fight another day.

Those buttons can still short even with the top part removed. Try cleaning the areas between the inner and outer areas with IPA

Are the batteries in parallel or series? They're 3v each...

Top tip for CR batteries, get Duracell or Energizer ones, always good and last ages. Ikea ones are just cheap and nasty.

Hmm shouldn't the voltage be reading 6V rather than 2.8V as there are 2 batteries?

I had a Bose remote and the “ new but old” CR2032s were only a little low, just below 3v, and it would not work, so I am wondering if it was actually the short on the button that has drained the batteries and now the batteries are just too low to power the remote.

Stumbled onto this as mine appeared to be acting up - in my case it turned out it had instead paired with my downstairs newer model nVidia Shield (the "roll"). Once I explicitly removed it from that one it was instantly back to the old device (no explicit pairing needed). Hope this helps someone who ends up here - might not be Steve's problem...

any tips on how to get the battery tray to eject as mines stuck and need to change the batteries. brute force?

I dropped my remote a few times but it didn't break thankfully. I did upgrade to the newer remote sometime last year though, which seems to be a lot better in terms of function and design

Since it are 2 batteries in series... shouldn't the voltage be around 6V?

Had the same exact issue with it not working on my shield. It started working by itself days later. Very strange. It's been fine since.

Last remote that didn't work for me it was the IR LED. Did the phone camera trick. Also testing with meter one way around usually causes led to flash. Also tested my led on component tester and was faulty. Never came up as diode. Pinched led from another unused remote and it worked.

Is it possible it's something with the battery cradle that's shorting to ground when it's installed? Check the data sheet on that chip corresponding to the leg that was shorting - could it be a battery leg? Hope you can find the solution mate. 👍

These are 3v batteries so should you have 6v ? Not sure how they are configured, but 2.8v is too low.

How to forward and rewind using this remote?

Dear StezStix Fix Firstly, i find your methodology of faultfinding funny and informative Thank you for your content. I am wondering if you could share the method you often use to unsolder components. You use what appears to be hot glue and a heat gun? I have only ever used a soldering iron and very interested in how you do this? Thanks..HKM. keep up the quality content!

Most remotes work on IR but though invisible to the naked eye, if you look at the LED through a mobile phone camera they often show as a dim blue light. Easiest way to test if it is working. 😊

Its the IR emitter.

Great song! Thanks.

Two CR 2025 battery in series should produce 6 volts ( 3 volts each)... am I right?

clean the contacts,,,:), maybe the signal gets obstructed by grease, could be on the transmitter too..., if u get low power on the batteries, try replace those...

Press and hold home and back until remote LED flashes, then wait a few moments..

What was the music for ??????

Everyone keeps going to the IR but surely this only had IR to do things like volume on the TV and will use Bluetooth or similar pair with the main unit. Surely if it's a faulty IR it would therefore still pair but then not control the TV???

the only thing i can think of, is try to factory reset the remote. Buddy of mine got his to work again with that, but! but!!!! it did die after 2 weeks again. Remove the back cover of the Nvidia Shield remote Take out one of the batteries Hold down the center “select” button and the home button at the same time While still pressing both of those buttons, reinsert the battery that was taken out and then continue to hold the buttons If this is done correctly, shortly after you reinsert the battery, you should hear a beeping sound Now unplug, then replug the power from the back of the Nvidia Shield, this will turn the Shield on without the remote. Try clicking some buttons to help re-pair the remote. Give the remote up to 30 seconds-1 minute to re-pair with the Nvidia Shield. This should hopefully fix the issue. (maybe)

I would hard wire using a bench power. I had a remote (not that one) when replacing this coin batteries and it still failed and it was cause of the "new" batteries were still junk. Don't like coin batteries always had bad luck with those.

I have the same issue.. what is strange at some point it worked again but now it’s dead.. same as you it sound like the remote drain the battery but doesn’t work

I'd probably use a logic analyzer or scope next to see if the the chips are triggering like they should be.

now i know you watch northridge fix cause you said 9th Dimension lmao and i said it with you

Don't you have to depress one of the buttons to get the IR to light up anyway?

It's a software issue. It happens to my remote every other week. Just go to Nvidia shield settings and remove the remote and add it back again.

My favorite remote is the tivo stream 4k remote. I've constantly wondered if it can be paired with the Nvidia shield and be fully functional

Wow! 2 videos today? Nice!

Weird have 2 paths (or more) shorted to ground but that CY8C4128LQI-BL483 chip is the RFID so maybe is indeed faulty? Sadly the chip cost way more than just a get a new remote.

Stupid remote control. Idd it is . But great work anyway. maby you can use it for a door stop.

If you wanna test a infrared light take a camera from your phone... Hold the camera in front and push some buttons... You should see a light flickering on your phone screen. You will not see it with just your eyes....

The 2017 / 2019 Shield remotes are weird. Your 2017 remote seems to use IR as the 2019 (Tovarome triangle) remote might be Bluetooth. To test IR remotes I use my phone camera and point it at it. If you hit a button, the emitter with either flash purple or green. Also also, even your component tester you have has an IR receiver on it, which even gives you a code of what is being emitted. My question is, @4:57 those two tabs Mec502/Mec504 , are they some sort of tabbed interlock and what would happen if they were jumpered? On an upside, I know android phones have a Shield remote app that will allow you to use your phone as the remote. Very handy especially if you need to type any alphanumeric characters.

I got one of those with mine when i bought it years ago. New ones came out with the triangle remote, but, couldn't buy them at the time on their own. The second they had the new remotes on sale i bought one. Not a clue where the stupid flat one is now lol

hi cool vid as always , love your channel , funny seeing the t shirts you wear too , i have most of them , particulary like the onyx one . not many folks know about or remember them lol . im no expert but watching you led to me having a go at fixing my phone and managed to repair it . was a bit chuffed . whats worst could happen , it get fixed or remains buggered. nowt to lose . can i ask what flux do you use ? just got an ebay cheapo hot air and soldering station . 50 quid so not expecting miracles from a chinese sweatshop but worth a punt for a newbie . all the best from west leeds mate .

i lost my sub i was wondering why i was not seeing videos from you glad i checked

This is the worst remote I have used that came with a product. It constantly sleeps and isn't responsive to button presses once it does so. You can turn on the 'keep live' setting to mitigate this but that doesn't work 100% of the time and chews through the batteries. Oh and it also uses two button cells that cost a near fortune to replace.

1:42 IKEA PLATTBOI alert -- in Dutch and German, PLAT is the word for FLAT -- they are cheap because they are factory rejects...

Need to go to a night class on electronics mate

Omg that led is working like some kind of diode

Same thing happened to me. I changed the batteries, same thing. I used the IOS app to control it. A few days later I picked up the remote by habit and it worked. Very strange.

Better / different batteries.. 2.8 is dead. New batteries are typically 3.3v Try using your bench power supply?

Same problem here. Has anybody found the solution?

Did you know that T2 was never trade marked which is why trainspotting 2 was allowed to put T2 on there ads.

Hammer

I don't know if you will read me but you could try the Kelvin method for short tracing, that works if you can't find the faulty component with thermal cam. Btw love your channel! 😉

Night vision shows if IR remotes are sending out a signal, I believe. If you do try anything else you might need to check that other Cap which moved at just after 13.48 (the one above the one you meant to move); it won't make any difference as is, but it could do later on, maybe? Just saying!

ikea cr batteries are rubbish last about 5 seconds out of the packet try some lithium ones

Here's an old school method to check your IR remotes prior to taking them apart Steve. Get your phone camera app up and running, point your camera at the IR diode and press any of the buttons on the remote, if you see the light flashing that's a good indicator the remote is functional. If it's not blinking then you can proceed to take it apart. This is a quick and dirty trick to check IR emitting devices to make sure the diode is indeed emitting a light, but because IR is outside the visible human specturm you cant see it, but your camera can.

You have loads of stuff that keeps breaking. Ever considered having somebody else buy your electronics gear for you?

I had the same problem, solved it by downloading the nvidia shield remote app😉

I have the same remote, does blink with the blue light, still doesn't always want to wake up the device, or pair properly. The amount of times I switched the batteries and unpaired and paired it again..Stupid Remote Control indeed!

I use nvidia shield too and i hate this remote control, touch bar volume is really painful to use and too much lag… i need a real remote with buttons and connected on bluetooth if you have a reference it can interest me 😅

Soak it in contact cleaner

replace it with the New 2019 shield remote and enjoy the new features

Very interesting video! Subscribed ;)

What thermal cam do you use?

i love you didn't fix it haha all that effort for 'me'

Inject Voltage at the shorted line, and watch with ur thermal cam what gets hot? (I skipped through the vid. I hope you didn’t try it already 😂)

I've been using the shield tv ap on my phone because my dog decided it looked like a fetch toy

Have you tried to 'Git Gud'? Thanks

Where’s the Patreon song?

Yeah mine doesn’t work anymore either so I just keep my Xbox controller paired

In aliexpress you'll find a lot of cheap remote controls for Nvidia SHIELD and in wide variety of colors

I ended up getting a flirc usb and control it with my Harmony remote.

Letttttttssssss gooooooo!