I own a 2013 Ford Edge, 3.5 v6 with 140,000 miles. No problems yet but I change my oil every 5000 miles with full synthetic and change my coolant every 3 years withFord oem antifreeze. I think that is the secret to making the water pump last.
Here's what he says in twenty words: Synthetic Oil, Change coolant every 30K miles, Use distilled water. Drive like a human. Excellent advice all around and all you can do.
Even recalling it still be the same configuration of parts. Maybe engineering type of why the water pump is outside on the 4cylinder 2.0L engines but not on the 3.5L ? Once the coolant leaks, it will be a quick mixture to the oil and I guess everybody knows whats next.
I was a believer in this until I noticed my coolant level dropping. Checked the dipstick and it was WAY above the fill level. Change my oil every 5K and coolant every 30-40k max. Pump started leaking on me at 124k miles. Thankfully extended warranty covered the fix. Seems like it’s the luck of the draw regarding the pumps. Take mine to the dealer for service too
My friend’s water pump went out at 30,000 miles and the engine Burned up at 30,000 miles and the car was New they Bought the car in 2014 and the Engine Burned up in 2014 with that same Engine 😂😂
That is your problem. You took it to the dealer. I was taking mine to a dealer. The last oil change they did on it, they came out and stated the rotor was cracked and I needed new pads. I asked how much and he said $600.00 I said no. I called my buddy and told him what they said and he said bring it it over and he would check it out. We pulled the wheels to check the rotor and guess what?!? No cracks were found. I took the rotors to O'Reilly Auto to get them turned. They stated the rotors looked fine and turned them for $25.00. I got my rotors turned and a new set of brakes for roughly $80.00 bucks vs. The crooked dealership getting $600.00 of my hard earned money. Needless to say they will never touch my truck again nor will I ever buy a truck from them again. More to the story in regards to my purchase, but it's not relevant here in this case.
I’m a little late on my vehicle.Had it 5 years and change oil every 5000 but never done coolant yet and I’m at 35000 now so I take it to ford next week and have coolant change and oil change then get coolant change every 2 yrs or 30k from Now on.thank you
Great informative video sir! I have a 2017 with 150,000 and my previous 2010 had 190,000! On both of my edges all maintenance done @ Ford and neither have had any issues at all! I use Lucas oil stabilizer for high mileage over 75,000 and highly recommend it as well as the Lucas transmission additive at fluid changes! I also use the Lucas fuel treatment weekly to keep my fuel mileage up. I have the fuel injection system serviced once a year to date along with the throttle body service as well. I basically take it in every 5-7500 miles and get the work package as they call it and whatever my tech says is due it gets done! I have an established working relationship with my ford service so that helps also when trust is established you just do what needs to be serviced and you sleep better @ night. I average 30,000 miles a year 50/50 city/highway and I’m still averaging 23-24 miles per gal for highway and 20 for the city portion so I’m quite happy with those numbers.
I change my oil 3 to 5 thousand im not doing good with coolant though 😞 we have 212,000 miles on our edge, transmission is having issues replaced shaft sensors and serviced it still having shift issues, these are very very reliable vehicles and worth every penny, as is my 2002 ford focus 2.0 dohc ztec with 262,000 on it only major issue was oil pump and seals.
The issue is timing chain tension. The chain is way to tight and has to be because it's a long chain and running several part. It's a hit or miss some last the love of the car and some last 30k miles. Check the oil at a minimum once a week as well as coolant level.
A reputable mechanic, knowledgeable about these Duratec motors, stated what you stated regarding the importance of on-time oil and coolant changes. Oil changes should be based on driving conditions, so mileage and duration, length of time between changes will vary. My manual for my 2013 Edge SEL states that oil should be changed between 3k-10k mile oil changes, but should not remain in the vehicle longer than once a year. We drive roughly 85 light traffic miles a week, so we plan on changing the oil once per year. We will be purchasing a coolant tester to determine when to change our coolant. Our Edge only has 69k miles on it as of now. Maintenance appears to have been in order. Hoping to have ours at least until we pay it off in 5 years, but we may keep it longer!
Synthetic oils are designed to handle 15000 plus km. Some even over 20000km. I run mine between 12 to 15000. Never had an issue and have run my last three vehicles to well over 300000km still running well. The brands I use are Castrol Edge most of the time, Amsoil, Pennzoil, and believe it or not Supertech (Walmart) and Costco synthetic made by Warren Oil. Both are excellent. Amazon synthetic is the same company but I have not bought from Amazon when I can go to Walmart or Costco for a 15 min drive. BTW, my edge has 402000km (mostly highway) and runs extremely well know on wood.
Marcus can you give the name of the Motorcraft coolant you use? I've seen more than one type out here. One was orange and another was yellowish. If you can, it sure would be appreciated.
@@DK-bk1vq I have a 2010 Ford Taurus SEL. It had the Motocraft specialty green coolant in it and at 65000, I replaced it with the new Motocraft Yellow VC13.
I just sent my explorer in for water pump replacemen at 154 thousand miles...I've always changed my oil earlier than suggested but not my coolant.....thanx for the great explanation and advise.
TL;DR - Change your engine oil regularly, change out anti-freeze every 30k miles. What's interesting is the needle bearings. xW-20 should reach the needle bearings faster/easier than xW-30 (not a whole lot, but still...) And the original 3.5L EcoBoost was designed to run on 5W-20 as evidenced by the manual and filler cap on the 2010 SHO/MKS and early F-150s. But Ford made the switch to 5W-30 later on. But extending the oil change to 12k miles on the 3.5/3.7 might be *fine* on the port injection engines but on GTDI you're going to run into fuel dilution and soot issues. Still would recommend 5000 miles.
sounds like i should I start drain and fill on my 14 sport 3.7 OH you personally called me out.... jack rabbit starts and towing.... plus long distance travels good video and information as always MAC-T
my 2013 edge limited only used ford blend oil and no issues in 108000 but my front differential was starting to Click meaning time to decide replace or sell so i went toyota Tacoma
I’m hoping I’m good. Oil, Motorcraft semisynthetic every 3000 miles. Coolant flush every 30,000 miles at Ford dealership. Had both oil and coolant tested a couple of times, both reports said life was still good. I change them anyway.
On my 93 ranger with the grandpa of the duratec 3.5, the old Vulcan 3.0, I'd flush the coolant every 2 years. That truck Had 180,000 miles when I sold it and it was running 5 years after that. Proper routine maintenance will always save you more money in the long run.
most of these problems are caused by ever-increasing CAFE standards (+ higher labor costs of unionized workforce causing lower costs/quality of engineering & parts). That being said, the Vulcan 3.0 SOHC & the Duratec 3.0 DOHC were damned near bulletproof (aside from the unusually bad oil leaks out of the oil pan gasket & the VC gaskets). They should've left the damned water pump where it was on the DOHC, where it was an EASY 1hr job
I've been doing this and haven't had problems with my 2011 3.7 MKX, the only difference are the brands. For oil I use Pentosin or Eneos 0w-20 and the coolant is a Pentosin Ford approved one. Great advice by the way.
@@robertogomez8100 mine has 80,000 but it has been doing it since brand new. You can’t hear it under the hood only by the passenger from wheel if you listen.
I HAVE 2010 GRAND MARQUIS LS, AND I HAVE IT FOR THREE YEARS, I CHANGE MY ENGINE OIL EVERY THREE MONTHS OR THREE MILES WHEN IT APPEARS ON DASH OF THE CAR, AND I USE DEXCOOL COOLANT.
That's good to do all that maintenance but when you buy a used car you don't know what you're getting and it's nice to buy a new one and do that to make it last long and it's crazy how some cars built just a little bit better than some at the same model but the engine was built better and I've seen this in all makes and models crazy when you get a good engine that runs real good
I change my oil at 4-5k (13 ford edge limited) it has 190k miles on it and she been very good to me. I maybe changed my coolant 2-3 times? Between living in Southern Californias heat and back home to NY WITH THE Winters I couldn’t be happier. This water pump is original and I am getting a little terrified when and if the Water pump will go.
@@streaydog019 Well let's see. I have all lube changes done at the dealer (extended extended warranty reasons) with their products except where noted. Coolant every 25 K miles. Engine, Liqui Moly Engine Flush followed by Syn Special AA Tec 5W20 oil every 4.5k miles. Trans 30K miles. PTU every 25K mile with RedLine Syn Gear oil. Rear Diff Every 75K miles, again Red Line syn gear oil. Brake flush annually. Power Steering when crystal red color is not clear Red. Just completed a Microlon one time treatment to all the above components. PLUS A/C. This treatment along with my change intervals will assure no issues with any moving metal to metal parts for a long time. ■ PTU. what I do not understand is all the hype about fluid changes here. Drilling drain plug holes, risky, DIY home evac systems and burning yourself, PTU units showing no oil just black sludge etc. Since new, my local OILER does it completely with my Red Line Gear oil. Oil coming out is burnt tan in colour. Since time of purchase the dealer told me the PTU has a lifetime fluid that never needs changing. This raised Red Flags. My OILER told us change it. The rest is history. My OILER has a neat PTU oil change system. They do hundreds of PTU'S for lots of manufacturers. Oh I Agee with MACTFORDEDGE the Motorcraft PTU gear oil is bargin basement compared to RedLine. ■ I have to say MACTFORDEDGE has been a God send and I thank him so much. My MKX ownership would not be so special without him. Let's see, glass roof skid replacements, Water Pump checks, Rear lower control arm replacements, rear deck lid rusting to name a few. I'm not mechanical however his RU-vid and internet site videos allows me to be educated, have these items questioned and dealership fixed. The only thing I do myself mechanically is his time proven Power Steering oil changes. ■ WHEEL ART Real neat ROTORS and CALIPER COVERS. I detest ugly looking wheels and or what is behind them. ▪︎ ROTORS All my rotors are OEM compatible DFC brand GEOMET silver finished. They will never rust. Everything is GEOMET coated except where the brake pads touch the rotors. They look amazing. My wheel well plastics are treated with Turtle Wax Graphine Flex Spray Wax. They always look fresh. Use this wax also on the entire MKX. Superior long lasting incredible shine. All black plastic and rubber looks and remains new looking. (Kiss goodbye 303 and the like). Repels dirt also. ▪︎COVERS - CCI, Plantation, FL offers a beyond unique quality Caliper Cover. YOU name the colour and inscription and they make it. Ours are a Satin Titanium with the bold LINCLON inscription. Held in place with killer earth magnets. Competitors use flimsy bolt on stuff that fails and their covers look cartoonish fakey. The stock calipers are dirty eye sores. They are BIG as on your Edge. The CCI covers accentuate their size. Ditto that for the rears. I really like the look. This whole area I call WHEEL ART. My wheel areas are the Rembrandt of Wheel Art. I am producing my first ever "Wheel Art" RU-vid video shortly.
I have a '15 Taurus Police Interceptor with a fairly new engine, and I'm going to follow his recommendations to a T. Soon as spring gets here I'm doing the coolant and the oil, and also the PTU since it's AWD.
@@jimmellenberger8505 I second you Jim, in fact Ford says not to service the ptu to promote early failures. Every 30k miles with high quality synthetic 75w 140 gear lube and you are good to go, no lifetime fill crap 😎
@@brentneahring2797 yeah, I saw another video, I think it was @FordTechMakuloco regarding the PTU being located in an area where there was high heat and the Ford Service Recommendation was far too long for the health of the PTU, and the transmission, for that matter. One of the things I noted when I bought my 08 was the fact that the prior owner had changed the transmission Fluid at 75k instead of the 150k as recommended.
@@jimmellenberger8505 you are spot on, that poor ptu is being cooked to death by the engine, transmission, and catalytic converter. It's less than a quart of fluid, but it doesn't take much to turn into a sludgy mess. And with the transmission, whether its the 6f35, 6f50 or 6f55 about 30k to 60k is perfect and it's really easy to do a drain and fill, and it takes 5.5 to 6 quarts. Also I was taught if you are having a transmission shift quality problem, instead of pulling the negative battery cable, check the owners manual for the fuse that protects keep alive memory (kam) data, pull that fuse and leave it out for about 20 minutes and just be soft on the throttle and brakes for about 10 to 30 miles. Had to do this procedure to fix my jerky taurus sho.
it makes a lot of practical sense **Thanks my brother** along with the PTU oil replacement for that Explorer utility that i want to purchase **it brings a little more confidence about Buying thar 2017 FPIU ***Thank You a Thousand Times **may the Lord Bless you Always
@@waltertaylor9615 I decided Not to purchase the 2017 Research said that any issues have been addressed from 2018 on UP the water pump- PTU issues have Mostly been addressed so I am Looking for a 2018 on up Now im Not taking any calculated chances with my my money for now in looking for a FPIU**the Reseach shows favorable numbers on less problems with the 2018 on UP FPIU**i hope this helps
Yeah I think it's hit or miss. I changed my oil since 50,000 miles every 5-6000 miles but with full synthetic and my water pump never leaked on my 08 Taurus. I did change the WP at 170,000 miles for prevention and now I have 240,000 miles with no problems.
I had to replace it. No shop would touch it they all said its a dealership job...the ones that would were asking $1500 minimum. Finally found a mobile mechanic (Felipe) who did for $700 or 800 not sure. He did a great job
Hello. A beautiful result. My mazda cx9 3.7 engine has 210,000 miles. Original pump. Original timing. What does valve clearance look like? Do the pushers need to be replaced?
I have 2010 ford edge. 70,000 mikes, changed oil as per requiremebts. Had oil change and radiator flush at jiffy lube. Check engine light was on. They told me it was gas cap. I shouldnt have driven the car, but did because they said it was gas cap. Next day 14 Mike trip. Light came on hot. I shut it off. No antifreeze in bottle. Bottom of radiator was wet. Called ramp truck. My neighbor said it was water pump. Milky oil now. I had no issues driving before jiffy lube charged me 300 to oil change and radiator flush. I only have 70,000 miles. It died in November. Would jiffy lube computer have seen water pump. Im sorry I went to jiffy lube. Now trying to figure out what to do with the car.
No not aware until after and much later. I personally have NEVER experienced a water pump failure with over 750,000 accumulated miles on any of my combined Ford Edges I have owned.
From the moment the engine fan goes into operation it does not stop working even if the engine is not hot enough and then if I drive with the vehicle it heats up right for me. And there is water to the maximum and everything !!
I'm draining my coolant today. I plan on then adding distilled water to reservoir, start the engine with reservoir cap open and let it run with the heat on. Turn off, let cool a little then drain again. Then add pre mixed Ford yellow and run again with reservoir cap open. Does this sound right? Thank you for posting.
@ MACTFRORDEDGE: awesome job, and videos on the edge. all things equal, at what mileage should we expect to change the water pump? i do understand that you'd put off this dreaded job with frequant oil and coolant changes, but if your buying a used edge, how would you know that it's time? thanks
MacT thanks for the vids. I actually bought my 2011 sport based on your other video proving the water pump CAN last. I ended up having my mechanic change it out just to be safe along with everything else he had access to at the time but now after 30k miles the low engine light came on and it stalled. I don't see fluids mixing so i don't think it's the pump,i saw your oil light vid, mines push button but it's not electrical i don't think. I also got the service trac control light about 5k miles ago,it went away but my brakes go to the floor at a quick stop (booster bulletin recal i believe) any ideas what's with the oil light on mine? Will oil pump do that? Thanks brother! I'm full synthetic by the way.
For anyone wondering the internal water pump falls under powertrain warranty. Ford offers up to 60k mi powertrain warranty. I'm at 80k when it failed but the dealer I bought it from included a lifetime powertrain warranty so I didn't have to shell out $3k
good job please tell me how to check transmission fluid , i bought my 2011 ford edge with 142000 mi -it now has 150000 mi-i dont know history of trans fluid changes-should i change it as a precaution
When that occurs is that what you explained causes blown head gasket ie., resulting in a cracked head assembly leading to the milky creamy color substance from coolant and oil mixing together ?
So... Let go of synthetic blend oil, and go full synthetic? Even though factory spec is synthetic blend? I'm driving a 2016 3.7 L, non turbo. I'm fine with that, but just asking to be sure I understand. And of course do timely oil and coolant flushes/changes. PS, Ford recently (maybe 2 years now) updated their coolant to yellow coolant, no orange anymore (partly due to clogging of the heater core) Great vid, thanks.
So my million $$$ question is..would it be a good idea to Seafoam this engine for sludge due to the this design? I am looking at buying a 2011..of course not sure of oil change maintenance..
Hello. My mazda cx 9 2008 with a 3.7 engine has a mileage of 300 thousand kilometers. I changed the coolant at 280,000 km when I bought the car. The fluid is checked twice a week. Should I replace the pump or the car and check the condition of the coolant and engine oil? What are the first symptoms of a leaking pump? I am asking for your opinions.
Hello there. My linconl mkx 2011 has some splash oil in the water pump ouside area and And in the screw to drain the oil area too around the pump area there was a stickier and dirtier oil. I don't know if it is showing signs of problems or if they have dirty the area while doing the service. I bought it 3 months ago with 110k any help will be greatly appreciated
Ok nice. Tell me what have to do to avoid pump problems when buy edge 2014. It was used and for sure the xare was not exactly as you are telling. So what would ve the proceder not to have problems in the future with pump
How is it going with your care? I'm looking at buying a 2015 Ford explorer and trying to catch any problems ahead of time. A mechanic is looking at it today.
I have a Ford Edge 2012 and suddenly it heats up for me. I took the thermostat it was not working. I put without a thermostat I put water I let it stop working.
Hi I’ve got 2011 Lincoln MKS 185000km on it. All of sudden coolant is leaking in Alternator area not able to locate where it’s leaking from, done compression test still not visible coolant leak. On top of it, it threw cam & crank shaft code and lost power all of sudden. Now it’s not turning on. What can be done? Got this car 1 month ago. Please any guide in which direction I should go!!
Question: Can water in the oil from such a leaking internal water pump cause white smoke to billow from the tailpipe like a blown head gasket does? Thanks. Trying to rule out cause of this in my 20007 HYundai Accent that according to the compression test and the leak-down test I did on it is normal, ie, does not have a blown head gasket (and hopefully not a cracked head or a cracked block, either). Thanks.
