Myford ML7 Compound Slide Re-Grind & Locking Screw Upgrade. 

Hi, that's great. Thanks for watching. Regards Steve

Hi Carl Thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. Regards Steve.

o trabajo bien hecho pero soy ingles.

Hi Roger, They are excellent motors and gearbox design. I think you will be very pleased with it. Regards Steve

Hi Glyn yes she hates them especially when they swoop down low.

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Thank you, Madam.

@SteveJordan You're welcome young lady.

Thanks, yes I was going to sort that next. Regards Steve

Hi Laurence, on my Myford it is held on with a grub screw. A 1/8" Allen key fits mine. If yours is the same the Allen key socket maybe worn? If so you can glue the Allen key in the socket after dipping it in something like loctite 638. There are various ways to get them to unscrew. That is if it's the same as mine? Regards Steve

@@SteveJordan thanks steve ,,its the same as the grub screws that fit the cutting bits to the cutting tool,,,,,,,,,,, , on the theme of excess over hang ,,my ml10 has only 3 1/2" centre height,, x 13" between centers,, and i have a 5"4 jaw independent chuck,, i dont want to overload the main bearings ..could i put an equal mass to the tail end of the head screw there for balancing out the revolving mass...... love your channel i am learning all the time,, regards ,laurence

I have done videos on this with the Mini lathe. One of the best things you can do is to take the saddle plates off, remove the grub screws and put the plates back on with shim instead of the grub screws, This allows tightening of the plates fully without bending them. Obviously it is experimental at first, to find the required thickness of the shim to be used, between the saddle plate and the underside of the saddle.

Steve Jordan thank you. I will search your archives and try the shims. I’m definitely bending them as they show evidence of minor damage on the inside corners.

Hi Bill, Yes it can be done the same. My brother did it to my ML7 before he gave the lathe to me. My lathe is fine now but could do with just a little more of the same. Obviously it takes a bit more work, but the results are well worth it. I will be looking at mine again soon, to finish off what my brother started, as I can just feel a bit of difference still.

@@SteveJordan how would you tell which side of the lathe bed is worn to add the paste to the right part? I would have thought ot mattered? If it were on the front edge, you'd only want to apply the paste on the front edge so as to even out the wear. I guess the top slide is a little simpler to "regrind" using your method. Could you share any tips? I'm not a machinist at all, just a willing enthusiast.

I have both. They both produce very good finishes at those RPM's

Hi Mitch, On the Modified Chinese Mini Lathe I use the Dixon type Quick-Change tool-post. I do have one for the Myford lathe as well and if you buy one it will be marketed as for either of those lathes. It is exactly the same sized one and will take 12mm tools. I use a home made block as well rather than the compound slide, which is a poor design on the mini lathe. I am currently looking at whether the small Aloris type toolpost can be used on a block for the mini lathe, from Banggood, but I'm only doing it for an option for other people, as I have the quickchange currently set with many tools on mine and there is no real advantage for me to buy and change over to the Aloris type for this lathe now. Regards Steve

But having said that I do prefer the Aloris type toolposts from China. They are much more consistent in quality and a better toolpost altogether than the quickchange, plus they are considerably cheaper to buy. If I had the choice when I bought my lathe I would have bought the Aloris type, but I'm not sure at this stage whether it can be modified to fit the compound slide as well....which obliviously the Dixon type can. The Dixon can be used on a block but also on the compound slide giving all round greater versatility.

Steve Jordan (

Steve Jordan Thank you for the reply. I will search Bangood today and try and find a suitable Aloris tool post. As ex-air crew, I have always been most grateful to aircraft engineers for obvious reasons! Best wishes Mitch

Steve, sorry to take your time, but there are lots of tool posts on the Bangood site and I am not sure which is the Aloris type, and which is the one you have on your mini lathe. As we are not sure whether the Aloris type will fit the mini lathe, maybe I should buy one like yours, unless your examination of the Aloris type is due to reach a conclusion soon? Sorry to ask but could you give me links to the 2 options? Thank you Mitch

Hi I would do the same for the cross slide and bed. I think my brother did the bed on mine using the same type of method before he gave the lathe to me.

I have adjusted it now it needed tightening on the leadscrew handle

I use ISO 32 Hydraulic oil on the bearings. On the spindle nose thread I use thick engine oil...this prevents the chuck from jamming...Regards Steve

It worked brilliantly. Very close inspection after cleaning doesnt reveal any residue. Backlash sorted now. All good to go. Works perfectly now. It's a great fix. I did my other one the same years ago and it's still brilliant with no problems whatsoever.

Whenever I am cleaning after a messy job I swill all the crud out with carburettor cleaner in an aerosol.

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@Sylas Aaron Definitely, been using Flixzone for years myself :D

@Sylas Aaron Yup, I have been using Flixzone for since december myself =)

Not on the finished slide. It is solid.