Nerdiest Snowboard Waxing Video EVER with US Team Member Senna Leith 

true.

Yeah

Let's gooooo

Agree!

For sure. I learned a lot on this one.

Thanks! Very useful. My understanding is that a bronze brush is good for the prewax stage if you’re changing wax or doing a pre/post season wax… but too abrasive or not necessary for the post wax brush, and just sticking to the nylon and horsehair brushes?

@@JonathanAnimate2 A coarse bronze brush is what you're talking about. A soft/fine bronze brush is good for post-wax, before a softer/finer final brush like nylon or animal hair. Just depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go with it.

Yewww

Yes, this would be helpful🙏🏼

and P-Tex and base repair. ;)

@@petehelme7714 P-tex base repair.The # 1 tool to use is a P-TEX GUN,,some are priced in the medium range and some are priced VERY HIGH.Never ask a snowboard shop, they'll tell you there highly expensive and might throw you a figure which is a lie,they just don't want you to buy one.If you get a deal on one don't tell your favorite snowboard shop.

Also if it is possible a nerdy video with Senna Leith covering how to keep in shape for pre-season, summer, and winter. The diet and the exercise daily meals (kcal?) keeping in form. Thank you for the video again.

Thank you for this. There's been so many different explanations, but finally this makes sense.

That’s pretty cool they allow that! My local resort is more like “ … what’s wax??”

Swix T77 iron, steel brush, brass brush, boar's hair brush, stiff nylon brush and soft nylon brush, any sharp scraper will work. Correct temp wax. Roto brush if you have money to burn... 99.9% of people don't need that. You can get a Swix pro snowboarding vice and clamp it on to almost anything. Not a full list of everything he's using, but most people don't need everything he's using. I have never roto'ed, but I'm not on the US boarder cross team. I don't use a steel brush. I use brass, boar's hair and nylon. I've been using the same brushes for 30 years. My iron is 10 years old. Maintain your equipment and it will last a very long time. Spend once, cry once. The art is getting all the dirt off the board so the wax sticks as well as possible. Don't let your board dry out, dirt will invade the structure when you ride and require more effort cleaning. Don't skip brushing before you wax. You don't want to trap dirt into your base. Even a sloppy wax job is better than a dry board. Take your time and don't rush. I've rarely used base cleaner. I have hot scraped many times to pull out dirt. They didn't cover that in this video. There are many opinions on how to do it and this is just one that is proven for him. Find what works for you. Start with basic equipment and add to it as you get a feel for how you want to do it. I waxed with a clothes iron for decades until it burned out. It's all about temp control and keeping the process as even as possible on your base. Same theory applies, 2-3 inches of melted wax as you progress with the iron. If the wet streak is longer than that your either going too slow or the iron is too hot. Different temp waxes need different temps on the iron but generally between 110F and 140F. Good rule is if the wax is smoking on the iron. it is too hot. On cheaper irons the temps will vary greatly from what temp is set at. The Swix iron doesn't vary as greatly due to the thick base plate. Consistency is king. I store my boards with wax on, unscraped. I hot scrape at the beginning of the season to remove the old wax and dirt from storage and rewax. Different types of snow require different types of structure in your board. They didn't touch on that in this video. Like I said, develop your process and find what works for you in your riding style, and where you ride. Base structure and waxing is as much of an art as it is a science. Your local shop can usually help you understand what works best for your snow conditions. All my boards are at least 4000 sintered bases. Look into getting a stone grind if you need structure. It makes a difference, but you have to stay up on your waxing. Again, consistency is the game here. Removing variables keeps the process smooth. Do it the same every time unless you're adding in new steps or trying to refine your process. I use a roll of blue shop towels instead of the white fabric he is using. Not quite as good, but a heck of a lot less expensive and multipurpose. I'm not trying to shave 10th's of a second off my decent. You can also use a horsehair bench brush to lightly brush off the extracted wax after brushing, or a clean (new) microfiber towel rolled up in similar fashion in this video. Enjoy the waxing rabbit hole, but remember most people just need the basics. A few years too late perhaps, but I hope this helps someone.

Did the board go fast?

Yea I agree with him being wrong about it. I believe sintered bases are quite porous but extruded is quite flat and non absorbent. Common sense too says if there are no pores and we are taking all the wax off then we are REALLY taking off ALL the wax so why bother. Must be pores that absorb wax.

Tommy stated in the video whatever the wax is rated for. Most waxes will show what your iron will be. Generally a range of 120-150 depending on the temp of your wax.

You can reuse it countless times but you may want to pick up a scrapper sharpener to help the overall life and function of the scrappern