Learn The Secrets of Snowboard Waxing & Tuning 

Is p-tex the same as glue sticks?

@@m007mmno

Amazing!

Aaron did an amazing job!

What resort? In NM and have only been up north.

Nice little secret there

Aaron is a legend!

Thanks Bo! Was awesome to meet and ride with you guys as well! See you in NM!

Awesome!

Glad you made it into the video too!

@@SnowboardProCamp thank you homie 🙏🏽

See you there! Where do you ride?

Thanks for checking it out!

I need to snowboard there!

We’ll have to visit these guys in NM!

Legendary parking lot!

Yes I do core shots! Base welds, edge repairs, delaminations, you name it.

He did the whole base with the drill brush

@@SnowboardProCamp sweet, thank you

No , rocks are

You only scrape of the excess wax that is too much. The wax that you really want on your board is kinda soaked into the base, so you don’t scrape of that wax (I‘m not a pro, these were just the things that i was told when i learned how to wax my board)

Think of it like this: If you zoom in on your base (like with a microscope) than your base will have a lot of "scratches" and holes and everything, so it isnt smooth -> more Resistance. Now all the wax does is fill in the holes and scratches therfor making the base more smooth and you have less resistance. Now the problem lies in the fact that the Wax itself is pretty "sticky" when put on snow. It is only the combination of Base and wax that makes it glide well. And therefore you want to scrape of the layer of wax that seperates the Base-Wax-Combination from the snow

Most of explanation you got down here. But it's also a difference if you have extruded base (EB) or sintered base(SB). EB is made with heat and is like one piece, SB is done under high pressure and is porous. So it holds more wax. Some boards also have structure. Structure pushes water out and if you leave wax in there the structure won't work. Water you ask? When you cruise down,the friction makes a thin lair of water. I was about 4-5y.o when learning waxing, am 40 now. So I've done it numerous times so2say. It's not that hard but U need patience. A good groundwork shows in the final result. Like groundwork on a car body before the paint job so to say. All my boards r SB. So I always take the bindings off, or at least loosen screws, so that there's no stress on the inserts. To avoid "base-dimps"(seen that happen😅). Tip to tail with a little wax trail behind the iron. Then I go tail to tip, and a final run tip to tail again. Trail should be few inches long behind the iron, consistent speed

I never scrape. Too messy and too much time. Plus the extra wax lasts longer and adds an extra layer of protection. I know im bout to start a war in the comments, but my take is: if you are racing and want the fastest base for 1 day then scrape, but if you just want a smooth ride that lasts multiple days dont bother

​​@@JohnDouqhhahahaha...yeah man, you're about to start a war here😂. But after scraping, it lasts about three to five days depending on the wax. HotSouce says that their is good up to a week (according 2 them that is). But how do you get an even base if not scraped off?? There's no way you getting that with an iron. Or maybe if your iron is wide as your snowboard

Planning on it!

@@SnowboardProCamp Have you tried out Mt hutt in NZ?

I don’t bother if they’re on saw horses or something to keep them stable.

Aaron with downslope mobile here, not necessary on the day to day tune! End of season removing the bindings will help to eliminate stress on the inserts.

Use a Gummi stone and alcohol

I think he did at the start

The spring was insane! Board was super fast after the tune as well!

Three or four

I need to try that!

Its had a long year!

You'd need about 400 degrees Celcius, a waxing iron runs closer to 130C iirc.

@@ZesPak Sorry. I'm not fckin Frech. I don't know what 400 degree Celcius is

It’s not that big of a worry