Hello guys, In this video I am going thru all areas from where water is leaking in Nespresso machines. What dimensions are the o-rings that need to be changed.
to reach the „difficult“ o-ring inside the heater element, you do not need to remove the two bolts. You need just to rotate the plastic part, not difficult compared with the previous steps. Thanks for the video, it saved me much time!
Just want to confirm that it's a clockwise twist what gets you to the inner boiler "small" o-ring. It isn't easy to twist I used a flat screwdriver as a lever to twist it and broke a bit of plastic, not important but wanted to share.
@@trinchetax correct. Tiny flathead pry slightly from the back a few times. Get some gloves and grip a few times hard. Should come off. Thanks for the tip.
Did any one of you replaced the o-ring inside the heater unit ? Mine is definitely scrap. Anyone has the o-ring dimensions ? Thanx a lot for the video !!!
Wonderful video - thanks. Sadly, my leak appears to be in the heating element, but at least with the help of your video, I managed to give it a go. I can't help but feel Nespresso could have made it so much easier for us to maintain this machine and reduce the horrible waste.
Hi. Just took my machine apart. Cleaned it and ran it without the cover to see I also have the issue at that difficult gasket . Did you manage to fix ?
Hi! At 20:55 where you mention the o-ring inside the heater element and it's basically "game over" - it isn't - you suggest that the metal pins have to be removed to get inside which is not the case. The plastic cowling comes off by rotating it clockwise looking at the heater element straight on (from the front/plastic end) then you can see that it rotates clockwise as the flange is not symmetrical, as there is a larger gap above one pin than the other. The larger gap rotates towards the metal pin and then the cowling pulls off! There is a retaining tab that stops the cowling rotate easily but this can be dis-engaged by pushing a screw driver between the cowling and the metal heater next to the metal gap right at the top of the heater body. Once you have the screwdriver well inserted, then the cowling easily rotates clockwise. This is actually easier than many of the other steps to get to this point. The bad news is that the o-ring is a small square section type (with rounded edges) much different to the very round ones. The dimensions are approximately 5mm internal diameter, 7.6mm overall width - so a thickness of 1.3mm and a square section length of 2.25mm. Once I find some, and can be sure they work I will post the exact type and dimensions. After trying to replace the o-ring I spotted a small crack on the inside of the boiler/heating element but it was hidden by limescale. I sourced a new boiler from SOS parts for 36.00GBP inc delivery. Link : www.sos-parts.com/
Thank you so much fo this comment! For taking it apart, a slight rubber hammer tap on the edge of my desk did the job to unlock it. It seems that I own another version with a small Oring in the middle which is very convenient 👍
Now unlucky me: The leak isn't from the old gasket but from the casting/tube connection ☠️ Don't know how I'll deal with this one, I guess I'll try to put another gasket under the plastic spacer so the leak will be enclosed in between two gaskets in an empty sealed space 🤷♂️ Maybe it will explode haha Who would have known repairing coffee machines could be so funny!
Thanks for a really helpful video. Regarding your comment made at 21:10, I'm going to repeat what a wrote in one of your other videos. I had a leak at the junction between the metal of the boiler and the plastic component that sticks into the boiler, diagnosed by carefully running my machine with the outer casing and the right hand inner casing removed (exposing live connections and a water leak so only do it if you know how to do so safely). I couldn't separate the two, so I bought a "thermoblock 230V" from Partmaster that came as a complete unit including the large O-ring pre-installed for £40. These nespresso machines seem to have shot up in price and it was £40 to repair versus £90+ to replace. Be aware that the high pressure connector to the thermoblock has a very fiddly retainer. I had to straighten the fold-around ends of the M-shaped metal clip so it looked like a hairclip, and remove the clip entirely by pulling it out entirely at the centre. I put it back in that shape, and frankly it doesn't need to be reformed into its original shape to function as a retainer. All worked for me. No leaks. Bliss.
Hi, thanks again for your videos. Watching several different ones gave me all I needed to tackle this cold water leaking machine. I found a set of O rings on Ebay, Jokskot was the seller and they were a good price and arrived very fast. He recommended your videos as well so I knew they were the right ones. With regards to your video, I found each part of the dismantling really tricky. I would fiddle and fiddle for ages, then come back to it and "ping" something would happen and it would come open easily. The last bit for the big O ring was a case in point. I've been trying so carefully not to break those little brittle lugs, and then there was an almighty crack and the piece flew off across the room and hit the cat. She leapt off to catch the spring but lost interest when she couldn't eat it. I see no corrosion on the boiler so I am going to replace the large O ring and hope that is enough. I also hope I can remember how to put it together again. I might have to run your films backwards. 70 yr old grandmother here.
Thanks a lot for these videos. I am picking up random defect machines and this is extremely useful to grasp basic constructs of such machines. You should grow your channel if you can maybe do other electronic equipment. Subscribed!
HI Adrian in this video at 20.10 you mention that in order to change the last o-ring it is difficult and you need to remove the 2 'Nuts" that the handle pivots on. This is not correct. If you look at the plastic collar from the front you will see that it has a cam format. Insert a screw driver to release the firtree lug on the rear top of the collar and rotate the collar clockwise 8mm and the collar comes free. Hope this helps
Leaking of my machine ( in capsule container) was caused by a blockade of 9 of the 25 very small holes in the disc in front of the capsule, while other holes might have been partly blocked. After cleaning in hot vinegar and brushing the machine doesn't leak anymore. These machines are good machines and repairable but because of those exotic screws many end up at the dump. Loosening the screws with oval heads will be problem no1. The first time i saw them i had doubts if it were screws...
My 2 cents would be to buy a torx's screwdriver multi-tool/set, they come in many varieties ranging from cheap to dirt cheap & will come in handy for opening/repairing many devices. In a pinch your best alternative option is a flathead screwdriver, but there's a chance it will damage the torx head.
There was no O-ring between the plastic and the alloy boiler. I presume when originally fitted there was some kind of paste or sealant between the two surfaces. I have put teflon tape between the two surfaces and it appears to have cured the leak.
Thanks for the video guide. Sadly I still have a leak… changed the o ring and cleaned the internals. No leak if I run it without a capsule but when I put the coffee capsule in I get a leak. Any idea what I’ve done wrong? Thanks
Ok so the retainer for the smaller o-ring was already removed before you did this video, correct? And you missed showing how to remove the second retainer. How do you remove them without having to completely bending them to a point where they are un-savable? I tried to both push the retainer inwards towards the plastic clip that it holds, and the opposite. None of it worked to remove the plastic to get the smaller o-ring out. Thank you for your help, and making these videos.
Great video. I have a Nespresso C50. It was leaking badly. I replaced the nozzle and the pour spout. I also cleaned the holes in the disk that perforated the capsules. It’s better, but still not right. I can make coffee, but water still leaks into the spent capsule bin. I want to change the brew head O-Ring, but I don’t know how to get to it. Please do a video on Replacing the O-Ring on the C50 or provide some written guidance. Thanks. JimmyPage
It is essentially a twist of the black part in a clockwise direction until the two noses on the plastic are free from underneath the handle axles on the metal part. It's not even a quarter turn but it is extremely stiff and will take some wriggling back an forth before it will budge. There is also a protruding square on the plastic part that reaches into a gap at the top of the metal part. I didn't notice that before I got it apart but the square on mine now has a corner shaved off of it. ;-)
You do not need to remove those two rods to get to the tiny O-ring inside the boiler. Those do not come off. You have to twist the black plastic piece attached to the boiler clockwise with a good bit of force. Then it pops off
Thanks for the video! I had a hot water leak and I found that my issue was that the O ring that you show at the end was not seated properly (it was all twisted). I reassembled everything, but I must have made a mistake somewhere because now the capsules don't get perforated anymore at the front side. The 3 blades at the back of the capsule work fine but the diffuser plate doesn't make the holes at the front. Any suggestion?
- 1 standard size torx screwdriver for the 2 screws on the handle (suggestion: get one of them little multi-tool torx things for a couple bucks, will open many many devices) - 1 standard size flathead screwdriver for wiggling the plastic panels off (if you don't have the above torx tool you can also use a flathead screwdriver on the torx screws, not the best way to interface with torx screws but certainly not bad either) - 1 amount of restraint, it's not hard to open (or completely disassemble) without damaging anything, just take your time and follow the directions he gives in this and other videos for doing things in the right order. (essentially just start prying stuff loose at the bottom and work your way up)
Hello Adrian Thanks for your videos. Do you happen to have opened a Nespresso Pro Zenius already? I believe I need access to the brewing chamber to clean the diffusor plate. But I fail to open the brewing chamber. Any idea how to disassemble that unit? 😅
any idea where to find disassembly instrucitons for a Nespresso Romeo E350 machine? When trying to use it, the water is only coming out of the bottom of the machine. Thank you.
Hello, I need a help. I have a destroyed this white thing 15:31 where you have a spirals. How do you call it? I need to replace it and don’t know how I should find it. Thank you so much for your help!
Hi there, Thanks a lot for the amazing video! at 7 minute 49' you speak about first possible leakage at the input of the pump but then you don't go deeper in how to fix it or diagnose it? Can you please complete? Thanks a ton!
Hello, great content. I am having problem with my nespresso. Unfortunately it doesn’t take a water. I remove all the parts, clean it all, and there is still an issue. When I press a button I hear a pump working but there is no water which’s coming from this main element. Sorry don’t know a proper name for that. What should I do?
How do I remove the diffuser coin after disassembling the C90? The diffuser has no space for a screw driver blade or knife to fit between the diffuser and where it is seated.
Mine didn't have those holes in the side of that plastic bit either, but you can just take a flathead screwdriver and wiggle it below the 'coin' from the big top or bottom holes of that assembly to then lift it out, the plastic is hard enough that the screwdriver marks will be insignificant. Then just clean it, afterwards push back in place till you hear a click and you're golden, doesn't matter what angle it has to be able to push it back in either which is nice (just make sure the big holes are on the nozzle side) the 'sealed brewing part' of the machine ends at that coin anyway, it doesn't extend beyond it, so dont worry about maybe making some screwdriver marks there, besides you nobody will know 😉
Thanks. I was able to get it out, clean it and seat it back into place. Now I have another problem. The piston part that hold the capsule is made up of two parts on my machine: a round metal outer piece and an inner round plastic piece. The inner plastic piece is so old that it snapped into two pieces and it’s so brittle that it couldn’t be glued back together, so now when the piston pushes the capsule against the diffuser plate, water just pours out around the capsule. I’ve looked everywhere for parts but none exist short of paying for a machine that someone is selling for parts, and it makes no financial sense to do that as you can buy a machine that’s working for almost the same price. Probably need someone to make a replica with a 3D printing machine. Anyway, thanks for your help on getting the diffuser out. Here’s a video link showing the broken part that I’m referring to. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CCKgm406jjs.htmlfeature=shared
Again, nice and informative video - they helped me a lot with my machine (y) Can you show in detail how to remove the metal retainers from the U-shaped water-element that connects the pump with the heating-block? It's that wavy, springy and possibly M-shaped paperclip thing that secures the connectors. Somehow this part is skipped in the video ;) And what is that little fragile plastic thing (timestamp 19:02) that sits behind the two springs deep inside the capsule-holder/-puncher? Thanks!
@@benassy69 Thanks for your reply - I was suspecting something like this and gladly kept my hands (and my pliers) away from this connections ;) Any idea about the mentioned "hidden plasticy spool" you removed with tweezers? Does this thing also have some kind of sealing around? Mine had some white/ivory stuff around it at one end, which partially fell off after removing...
My experience with the high pressure connector to the thermoblock was that I had to straighten the fold-around ends of the M-shaped metal clip so it looked like a hairclip, and remove the clip entirely by pulling it out at the centre. I put it back in that shape, and frankly it doesn't need to be reformed into its original shape to function as a retainer. It doesn't apply pressure to the seal. It is simply a retainer.
Thanks for the clear video! Based on your information I have to conclude the leak is within the boiler/heater unit. Do you have a bit more detail on how to open it up an find/fix the broken parts? Thanks!
It is essentially a twist of the black part in a clockwise direction until the two noses on the plastic are free from underneath the handle axles on the metal part. It's not even a quarter turn but it is extremely stiff and will take some wriggling back an forth before it will budge. There is also a protruding square on the plastic part that reaches into a gap at the top of the metal part. I didn't notice that before I got it apart but the square on mine now has a corner shaved off of it. ;-)
I've cleaned the machine, removed the large o-ring in the brew unit, its perfect, lubed it and replaced it, cleaned the front mesh all holes clear and yet it still leaks, with or without a pod...?!
Help please.... Nespresso coffee machine....type 9737n..... Zenius.. professional. Please help.....how can I remove the cover on the machine.....I have already removed all the screws I could find and cover still not come off.
Thank you very much for your answer. I can follow your instructions only at a certain point, then my Pixie Nespresso(typeD61) is different from the one in your video and I can’t go on😢
@@benassy69 and the thermoblock heating system right?? Just wanna know though having few plastic parts, does hot water and the brewed coffee come in contact with plastic inside the machine??? Will be obliged to know. Thank u
Many many thanks for your videos. Well I had a go, because it had become unusable - most of the coffee leaked out - I disassembled it, down to removing the internals from the case and being able to access the nozzle area. I could not remove the nozzle assembly as I was worried about breaking the tabs but was able to pop out the diffuser place and gave it all a good clean under running water and a lot of gunk came out. Also put a needle through the holes in the diffuser plate. Put it all back together easily and tested - and I can now get a cup of coffee!! So success. But it still leaks water somewhat, so I think one or more of the O rings need replacing - do you have a list of all the sizes?
Hello guys, I have the same type of coffee maker(Inissia EN80), and it leakes. I did all cleaning as recomended in this DIY except the replacement of large O-ring. What is parts number for it and where could I order one? Thank you, Alex
Honestly my conclusion is being somewhat impressed by how its just 90% plastic that slides or clicks together & two screws. It's a pretty clever construction and im sure somebody had a lot of fun designing this hehe. Better than most devices these days being glued or 'welded' together and unrepairable, this obviously does take a little bit of effort but you can completely disassemble it with only basic tools, gotta admire that.
Boa noite Adrian estou com problemas de vazamentos em uma cafeteira igual a essa já troquei o oring da cápsula, continua vazando, será q pode ser vazamento depois dessa parte onde tem q soltar as porcas e ver se tá com oring ruin ali dentro agradeço se me ajudar ,sou escrito em seu canal
Hello friend. Please translate this message : He logrado desmontar la pieza donde calienta el agua. La pieza tiene solución. Si te interesa saber la solución? Me gustaría colaborar con tu blog. 🎉 Espero tu respuesta. España
Hello Adrian, thank you very much for this tutorial. a 5'58 you've talked about the gasket for the water tank. Mine has been eaten partially by cockroaches in my house. how can i find a new one please ? any recommendations? other wise the agency will ask me about $50 for repairs and servicing. many thanks i have an inissia nespresso D40
