In this video I discuss the common issues you may encounter after replacing the alternator with a new or rebuilt alternator. If the alternator is still not charging the battery I explain why.
Bought a new alternator and a battery. Still killed my new battery checked all fuses all wiring and come to find out I had a bad new alternator. One tip that can help have AutoZone check the new alternator before exchanging saved me time and gas.
Ultima is a trash brand don't buy electronics from autozone or oreilly they are the same store that sells the same garbage but if ur a technician and that's what they want go ahead and do it it'll give u multiple times to get paid
I have the same problem, new battery and a new alternator from Amazon. Guess I need to check the new alternator. Seems that is getting to be a common problem with part’s nowadays.
@@doug3805 Well, I found my problem. It was a dirty throttle body. Once engine got to temp and the butterfly in the tb closed to idle position there was too much carbon buildup/ sludge around the edges to allow enough air for a proper idle. Wasn’t spinning the alternator fast enough, causing a low idle and drawing the battery after vehicle warms up. Had no idea u were supposed to do this every 60-80k miles and mine’s at 240k. An easy way to tell if this is your problem, if after the vehicle warms up and the idle drops below 700rpm then it’s very likely. (Idle is never supposed to go below 700 at idle or 600 veh in drive and at a stop with foot on the brake)
Thank for your video mate you are our Legend 💪, just wanna ask you , after I changed my alternator on 2013 Porsche cayenne gts put all back together new coolant,ready to start car won’t start no even one crank,scanner it with AUTEL scanner it shows me 15 faults before I scanned it have no faults, I checked all fuses front left cowl front right side dash nothing blown with fuses on battery as well as it’s new AGM one month old before find out it’s alternator,,, do you reckon when alternator stopped doing his job a high purge voltage pass some how to engine ecu burn it as my scanner can’t communicate with ecu ? Thank you
Yeah I’m on this issue, on a 2007 Elantra already replaced alternator 3 times, replaced the battery twice and wiring from battery to alt and starter, checked all grounds, replaced the main ground, I’m at a loss now
I bought an 180 amp alternator but my car won’t stay on, my mechanic said I might need the 220 amp. I see no mention of ampage is that really difference maker
I went to get my car, and it had no power whatsoever, charged it up Went down the road and the tachometer was going up, but my car was not going very fast with my gas pedal all the way down I ended up pulling over popping the hood and the coolant overspill was boiling and overheating. I did smell a little burning smell when I pulled over I ended up putting any battery in it because it wouldn’t start and it is still not starting or letting me roll my window up thought?
I had a bad pully on my old alternator so I went ahead and got a new one. Replaced it and when I hooked the battery back up I heard a pop near the new alternator, so I check to see if anything was smoking, no smoke, it was charging the battery at almost 21v and before I shut it off to discount the battery, I heard it pop again, figured I got a bad alternator as I noticed the next day adter hookung the battery up one more time to see if i heard anything, this tome no pop but the alternator wasn't charging the battery anymore, I k ew my old one was still good so I swapped the pulley and out it back on, along with a new tensioner and older pulley and new belt. Still no charge. The battery reads a little over 12v when it's not running and under 12v when it is. Any ideas? I was told to check the replays under the battery but I can't get the battery tray off as the bolts are rusted so bad they will strip. I have ran out of what to do. This is in a 2010 jeep patriot 2.4
I have a new battery and a new alternator. The alternator will charge and then just stop. Wires to battery, good. Fuse, good. 2003 Audi TT 1.8l What’s wrong.
My 2020 Colorado says to service the battery charging system. The truck can be jumped with cables but as soon as the cables are removed it dies. Battery is good I charged it and got it tested. What’s the issue?
I I am bed ridden for now until I get better. Will my alternator charge my battery just by starting the car without driving or does the car have to be driven to Foley charge the battery?
Maybe Depends on how discharged the battery is. Driving is better- higher output from alternator. Personally I’d just put it on a 10A or 15A smart charger for a day.
Hello , my alternator overheated almost melt inside,now changed it to new one it s not charging it sound like it wants to overheat too, i unplugged it, because i cant hear it make noise too when plugged any idea what could be the problem (honda odessy 2006)
for me I recently replaced both a alternator and battery but when I try to crank it all electronic power cuts off after a couple of cranks and starts making clicking noises like the battery is dead again
Check your starter. Had similar intermittent no-cranks - turned out OEM starter at 200k miles was packed full of carbon dust from worn brushes and the dust was binding the starter. Disassembled the starter and cleaned out the carbon dust, reassembled/reinstalled & problem gone at $0. :)
@@RickOSidhe I had another go at it but I haven’t looked at the starter just yet, I had a jump pack hooked up to the battery and noticed when it starts clicking the volts from the battery go from 12 to 8 and would go back to 12 when we stop cranking it
@@TheKingDomm First step, always check your grounds and battery cables & connections. The voltage drop sounds like the starter is getting sufficient power and engaging, but it's binding on something. The fact that you hear clicking means the solenoid is likely still okay. If you hear the clicking and the starter motor spinning (whirrrr!), but it's not engaging the flywheel, then the problem might be with the bendix gear - either stuck/binding or the teeth are worn down. In the absolute worst-case scenario, you've got a spot on the flywheel with missing/broken/worn teeth. If you suspect this, turn the engine over by hand for an 1/8th of a revolution. If the starter engages, then its a pretty good indication that the flywheel is your problem. For what it's worth, on my wife's CRV issue, it manifested as an occasional no-crank when the engine was fully warmed up. The issue was fairly intermittent, but occurred with regularity. Battery tested okay, alternator tested okay, only thing left to check on was the starter. In typical modern fashion, R&Ring the starter required removal of the intake system to gain access, but it wasn't that big of a deal. Replacing the alternator is much worse on these K24 second-gen CRVs. :/
Yes I did everything you said and now I would like to check alternator because this is second one and it’s hard to believe that both are no good. Can you help me solve this mystery I will donate money to you we can solve this problem. Thank you!
