I think it they did the opposite of have studs come up from the chassis and the hole or alignment slot on the body going over the chassis stud would eliminate that totally. Making it align itself , secure itself but not let dirt sit in it.
Why not turn down 1 post a little and see if that post gets stuck on a run? If it doesnt stick thats your fix.... Loved seeing Earl dropping knowledge on them dudes lol.... Keep up the great work!
Hey Earl. good video as always. Was thinking maybe jb weld over the holes to make them flush and redrill the holes again. Think that may solve the issue. Cheers bro
I have to make sure my Mojave 6s runs in dry dirt only no grass...mud etc..I just finished a 2 hour clean and lub... they are a pain to clean out and you are right they collect grass as if i was mowing..🥵
Interesting finds in your vid about how the sand got in there in the first place & a lot of interesting suggestions for a fix in the comments. Almost pre-ordered one while watching just to try and find a solution myself, but I ended up just ordering the center diff module, diff & locking block. I'll order a complete truck from the local hobby shop when I get a chance to swing by because I just know they're still gonna be sold out. Also anxiously awaiting the PoloCreations light kit, because it definitely needs some for RCing at night.
Nice video man I'm actually very curious to see what the exact cause is! I still haven't had an issue again and I ran it 3 times today. It's been getting easier and easier to take it off. It's still annoying that it was ever an issue though. Glad to see you actually dig in to the issue! 👍 25:20 yeah that actually sounds like it would work! Not a bad idea.
Hello! I really liked this video, until the end the o-rings were the solution:)) I was thinking of some gaskets made of memory foam to take the shape of the holes in the chassis at the top, like the ear plugs but made of memory foam and glued to the chassis with super glue I can't wait for tomorrow's video, all the best!
Fill the holes with E6000 and place a body post washer on it. After it cures dill it out to size. Also maybe try a shock piston instead of body post washer
I wish you had the space to build again like you did the tekno MT. they have a new short course truck out....heavier made more so for bashing than track racing like the first one
Possibly groove the pins so dirt will be allowed to pass through. Seems like a chassis screen might work it did wonders for keeping stuff out of my Rustler. I did see another channel the guy drilled the holes out it still stuck but not as bad. I know you will figure it out good luck my friend
That hole at the back of the chassis cover is the problem. Fill it with a chunk of foam or extend the chassis cover with some gorrilla tape. The rear wheels are going to throw stuff all over the place especially when sliding the rear end in corners. Look at where all the grass was in the chassis, in the back right! The whole chassis is going to be vibrating anytime the motor is turning, those vibrations carry rocks and dirt into all the gaps including those cage posts. 👍Two steps forward one step back i guess
@@earlmoorhead5555 I dont know if you'll be able to keep it all out but keeping more out is definitly a good thing. For sure that hole near the steering like you show is a problem too
It doesn't matter How much you try to seal up holes in the body fine particulate is still going to get everywhere. There's absolutely no way to prevent it short of hermetically sealing the system.
Foam rubber thick gasket should do it! Would conform to all surfaces under compression and do so with the movement of the body stud. I would expect it to be 100% effective.
@@earlmoorhead5555 I'm thinking of the foam rubber that the foam pads you get from Joanne's for camping or making mattresses' out of. That would be especially suitable, I would think!
@@VDVC-RC No, go back to "old school" foam rubber, like we had in the 70s! I have my old camping foam rubber pad, 4 inches thick! Before memory foam was ever thought of.
@gillian9178 simply gonna try what I've currently got on hand. Drilling or reaming out bigger holes just seems a bit much IMO. I might even try the rubber o-rings & silicone grease in tandem? *let you know how it turns out* 😉👌🏽
It's likely that the validation samples that they had didn't have such tight clearances. It's pretty common for production models to have very minor differences from validation samples and slightly increasing the clearance basically solves this problem as I showed in my video. The body will still get a little bit stuck if you're in really really dusty dirty conditions but it's relatively easy to remove.
No way they tested this and did not find this issue. Lack of testing or just overlooked. Tapered hole from bottom of chassis to widen opening about the only idea that would allow debris to fall through. Buuuuut if it does not bigger chunks could get jammed from the bottom impacts. Looking forward to see your soulution.
This is little off topic, but not really. when I first ran my Hoss last Spring, the screws holding the receiver box top would come up after every run, which got in the way of the clipless system. So my friend and I had to Macguyver a fix. He cut a slit in the box so the wires wouldn't make the box top hit the body system. Point being. Yes, there are fixes, but why do the people buying the rcs having to come up with things companies should address? (looking at you Arrma).
@@earlmoorhead5555 Hardly stuck. It wouldn't take much to take it off after reaming the holes. You above all people should know that not every RC is perfect and some require some kind of modding to make work. It's better than the driveshaft issues the 4s used to have or some kind of gearing issue. It's a minimanl modification by reaming out the holes
@RUZTY1311 what ? The 4s outcast had 1 issue steering ? The 4s Kraton same the promoto Mx has no issue the Losi RZR same no issues on release the XRT traxxas no issues for it intended use on release sledge same only in tested rc have been having issues on release arrma seems to have design flaws not standard breakages right 🤷🏻♂️sending an rc way in the air can break an rc that why I decided to not send this rc just run it soft for it’s intended purpose ! But your more then welcome to spend money on RTR rc’s and fix there issue and smile about it doesn’t mean the rest of us need not show the flaws 💯
@earlmoorhead5555 I understand there are a lot of other RCs put there that dont need mods out the box. Arrma hasnt been known for perfection. The 3s line had huge issues with the spur stripping, other gears stripping etc. And yes the new 4s outcast and Kraton had driveshaft issues and Arrma actually remedied those issues. They might actually do something about this issue if enough people yell loud enough, but thats RC man its how it goes sometimes haha In my opinion its a small problem that can be fixed easily by sanding the posts, lubing them, or reaming the holes. Its not as bad as my Notorious rear diff that kept blowing over and over again until I shimmed it properly 😄
Great video as always Earl...... What about some squishy foam like you use to brace batteries..... Pcs of that on the cage in-between where it makes contact with the chassis.... Maybe that will prevent it from going in the first place...... 🤔
@@earlmoorhead5555 I was referring to putting the actual PCs of foam on the post itself...... Make like a 3/4 inch round PC of foam with a hole drilled out of the center just thick enough to squish down and prevent the dirt and dust from getting in there..... Probably isn't a permanent fix but it's cheap enough and not difficult to replace...... Better than what arrma came up with....... 🤣
@toddo9043 I do understand I was on the phone most of the day with Rc guy garage bouncing ideas back n forth trying to come up with a simple easy fix just testing a few thing to see what will hold up best 👌
You could get some dog screens and net it off underneath might help or get a pencil sharper and sharpin the post sometimes no matter you fix 1 problem you make a new one ...
If I Velcro the side down it would help a ton but I feel the fennel effect in a 40 minute run could still happen just not sure until we test several ways of this fix
You might use one of the step drill bits do a little from bottom and a little from top so it will still be the same size just it the center of hole so it will just hang on just a little spot it's the drill bits that look like a spin top old school got to try something..
If they had designed the studs that enter the holes to be an "+" section post, there wouldn't be an issue. If they had tested this RC, they would easily have seen this simple design flaw and simple solution. A solid round post in a tight fitting hole is a problem waiting to happen.
So I have to disagree with you on the bigger hole thing. Not only have I already done it tested it and verified that it works but the reason that the pins are seizing up to begin with isn't as simple as debris is just getting in there. The really close tolerances are letting extremely fine debris get in there which is then causing the plastic to essentially gall against itself. That's why you're seeing that white powder inside the post holes when you get it apart. Enlarging the holes mostly eliminates this problem. Yes larger debris can get in there but larger debris also isn't going to cause that same problem. The pins will get a little bit stuck if it's really really dirty but the larger debris can also just roll when you pull the pins out so it doesn't have that same galling / seizing issue. Nothing you do to try to seal the holes is going to work because as I'm sure you know find particulate gets everywhere no matter what you do.
@@earlmoorhead5555 Yeah I guess it just depends on what your goals are. My goal was to allow the body to come off without having to make major modifications. Slightly enlarging those holes won't make any difference as far as strength is concerned and stops the body from getting inextricably stuck on. Yeah you still have to pull a little bit to get it off but I don't really consider that to be a problem especially since like I said my testing was basically worst case scenario. The only other solution I can think of that might be better would be to heavily taper the pins like they are on the fire team. That's going to be a lot more work though and I'm not sure The added benefit would really be worth the effort.
@DoRC you talk about goals but I didn’t see you have an issue till you saw or heard about my video ? Nothing was said about this issue? And was it an issue for you as running on dirt is way different then sand ? And sand seems to be the issue not really dirt 🤷🏻♂️I read a text that you only did this video after reading a Facebook post but not having the issue so to fix something that not a problem why
@@earlmoorhead5555 I Did have trouble removing my body(as stated in the same comment your referencing). It wasn't discussed in the first video because I had a really bad roof crash during that session and I assumed that it had jammed the pins. Since then I had more difficulty which made me realize That it was actually debris getting in the pinholes that was causing the problem. That being said it wasn't the difficulty removing the body that prompted me to make the video it was someone mentioning in a Facebook comment that difficulty could result in a serious problem in the event of a lipo fire or something like that. It's been a long time since I've had that kind of problem so it didn't even occur to me. That comment about the implications of not being able to remove the body in a hurry is what prompted me to look into a fix and then make the video about the fix. I'm not sure if you've watched my videos but I bash in almost exclusively sugar sand. It is both fine and dusty. I did intentionally find the worst possible area to do the testing of my fix in just because I wanted it to be the worst case scenario but I bash in those sorts of conditions all the time. That is one of my regular bashing spots as you can see from my other videos. Ultimately though it was the potential for a safety issue that prompted me to look into a fix and make the video.
The comments where after a few run you agree it’s a non issue but now you agree it’s an issue but never watched me hammer mine off is where I can’t imagine someone posting a repair video saying it’s a non issue after a few run without a video showing a problem first it can’t be both and depending on the area you run will determine if the body stuck on and needs a hammer or can be removed with shaking it 11 comments saying this is not a big deal but posting a video on a fix has me believing this was a quick video trying to grab attention is all I’m seeing sorry I feel this way but it’s what I’m getting from all the messages sent to me on and off my channel 💯👌
No offense, but the way you’ve been driving the truck I’ve seen, it’s no surprise that you haven’t overheated it. I personally tend to stay pegged at full throttle a lot and wouldn’t be shocked if I overheated it. Hell, the 150a esc get scorching hot on 4s! I 100% understand why you drove the way you did. Just pointing out that style doesn’t generate as much heat
I always upgrade ESC fans out of precaution. TL;DR: My ESC's never overheat. When I was testing top speed on my Outcast 4sV2 I ran with: - 6s 6000 mAh 120c lipos - 4068 Surpass Hobby 2650kv motor - 17t pinion - Talion Belted tires - Old ARRMA BLX185 6S ESC - 9400 μF 50v cap pack - CG-4010HO5S 5v 7000RPM 40X40X10mm ESC fan - Aluminum 40mm ESC fan adapter - 40x40x28mm 12v server fan for the motor - Aluminum 40mm Motor fan adapter - Castle BEC set to 7.4v powering the servo, ESC & Motor fans Only got it to 71mph, but the lipos were hotter than everything else. 😮 The ESC did cut out but never from overheating... Had to set it to punch level 2 and still had a helluva time trying to keep the front wheels on the ground at part throttle. For bashing I just swapped in 4s lipos, but only the SMC 9700 mAh 120c lasted longer than about 10 -15 minutes with that setup. Now that rig is a Kraton 4sV2 with the stock motor & a 12t pinion with normal runtimes on SMC 5600 mAh 100c Lipos
I live in the Mojave desert (yes, ik, suiting 🤣) and it's 95° in October and I'm almost always full throttle. It gets pretty hot but never hot enough to go into thermal shutoff.
@@IAMJESUSPROOF awesome! Didn't seem like it would work to me but if the problem is plastic galling like I suspect it is I suppose that grease would help prevent that even if it does attract more debris.
I think you're going to have to cut the posts into nubs and let the body hold them down. Even drilling out the holes won't stop mud from drying out in them, and the whole process starts over. I've never seen this design in my life and obviously it's a bad design and an even worse idea. For the money, you'd really of thought Arrma would have thoroughly tested this. But it appears they just congratulated themselves and didn't give it a 2nd thought. And one thing's for sure, you're not going to keep dirt, dust, mud, water and stones out of an RC. ANY RC. That's why I use sealed covers on all my exposed gear sets. I can't believe people who don't. I remember once I was running a Volcano in cut grass that apparently was damp. When I took the body off, there was a complete solid mold of grass under the body. A complete duplicate of the body molded in grass that was now dried out from the heat. I had a hell of a time breaking it all up to get it out of the truck. And there were indents in it where all the components were. I couldn't believe the ESC and king sized brushless motor didn't overheat, but they didn't. I think you're stuck with a bad car. And nothing you're going to do is going to actually fix it. Pinning the roll cage down seemed like a great idea. Except that the pins need to be from the chassis pointed up. And quite frankly, that body seems way too cheap and flimsy to hold up on it's own. There isn't much you can do with it. Best of luck. You could try sealing the holes from the bottom. Who's to say the dirt didn't go up through the holes and wedge the pins from underneath. Just use tape or something to cover the holes and try it out. It might be as simple as that. If it happens anyway, you can easily take the tape off to punch it out. And if it does work, fashion rubber stoppers for the holes.
I use outterwares and it keeps most everything out including particulate dirt. It keeps out more than you think. Pantyhose works well on the ESC and gear train. Wouldn’t hurt you to try it, would it? @@earlmoorhead5555
