The original dials on these old lathes were not the best but after years of use and abuse they were useless. New dials are a must if you have one of thses old lathe.
How wonderful for you to do this for the old girl. Using the lathe to repair itself is just great my friend. Using that 100 tooth sawblade as a register for the dials is nothing short of brilliant my friend. I sure hope you are damned proud of these pieces my friend. Well done fella !
@@WinkysWorkshop The really nice thing about these great old lathes is with minimal maintenance they have survived long enough for another 60+ years. That just cant be said about the new ones eh.
Creativity plus on all accounts, really enjoy watching your solutions to problems with machines. I can't wait to amass the various tools in my shop so I can be as creative. Thanks for the vid!
Hi! I love your videos! I was hoping you could tell me...if i have a metric machine and have made an imperial dial like yours..what kind of acme thread would i need on my crossslide? Please help!
Always enjoy re-watching your videos. I too have an old 1939 11" 4 ' South Bend lathe with the heavy undermount motor cast iron enclosure that I restored about 5 years ago and a mill drill like yours so always interested in your upgrades. I too would like to put dros on my Mill and have to go back and research your videos to see what you used and how you did your install. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your videos and projects, they are excellent.
Very nice, I used to have two lathes and it was nice but space in the shop was an issue. I only did one video on the DRO installs and it was a redo. I just posted it last weekend. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-roA-7A1AOnE.html
As I've said before, you are a crafty one! Great video, with lots of ingenuity. Your saw blade indexer is a great idea. It reminds me of a cutter grinding index finger. The dials came out pretty nice, and now are readable by someone with senior eyes.
Nice one winky, I am enjoying this South Bend series......it's good to see some down to basics machining.....10/10, keep up the good work and thanks for posting the vids.
Gday Winky, fantastic job on the dial, it’s a great setup and simple, I really like the jig for stamping the numbers, I’ve learnt heaps for this restoration, thanks for sharing, Please take care, Matty
I’m a new subscriber and I have to say I’m learning a lot from you sir I enjoy your videos a lot i am a mechanic who started using a lathe as a hobby 6yrs ago and I’d never stop lol so much can be made on a lathe the amount of tools I’ve made and saved a fortune paying for them from a company I learned by watching people who know there stuff thanks for sharing your work all the best from London uk stay safe and healthy god bless
I'm basically the same. Sometimes I imagine a project and think... "Oh, that's too hard to make" an then I realize I have a lathes and mill. It removed a lot of limitations! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together I have a atles 10 ''lathe whitch is very similar and has same problem inspired me to have a go rather than perches some many thanks nigel
Nice workmanship on the dails and the treading dail in the other video. Great camera work and explanation of your work in these videos. Very interesting and entertaining.
Hi Winky, another great job, well done. I love the idea of your dial stamping jig to get the numbers lining up good. Will have to store that idea away for future use should I need it.
Maybe you won't have to make an extension. The 1-1/4" dial on my compound is fairly easy to read. As long as you can make the dial 1-1/4 or more I'd forget about making the extension. Of course as big as possible is best.
Awesome! Thank you! Extending the dial screw and housing was a lot of work but the dials themselves are fairly easy. All together I've made 10 dials. Use a HSS steel tool sharpened like a thread cutting tool to scribe, go fairly deep with the scribe and use wet dry sandpaper on a block on the dial after scribing. I think about 600 grit and then steel wool. That maybe the way I did it in the video but I know I didn't go deep enough with the scribe.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Markus Fletcher thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great work Mark. Love the indexing jig! Wondering if you considered just making a spacer to extend the larger turned piece that fits over the lead screw.
Thanks. The old peace could have been modified but the gear position inside the cross slide would also need a spacer. The extended sleeve was fairly easy to make.
Line broach: Make a 90 degree cutting tool, facing into the chuck, the width of the lines you want. It's not a normal thing to do, but you'll only use it for making lines. That will give you flats to paint. Spray it and sand it. Could even make different widths, but not too different.
Music? During the video or the beginning? I'll be posting another video later today. I had a lot of fun with the music and editing so let me know what you think.
Thanks for sharing the video. Awesome project 👍 love the sawblade indexing setup. Instead of the shoe polish to darken the numbers, I would cold blue the whole dial. After it's good and black, throw it back on the lathe and sand it off. Theoretically the lines and numbers should be black still. I think I will try this on my South Bend, dials are very small.
I hadn't seen your videos before. Nice job. Now that I'm retired, I think I'm going to try adding a Bridgeport dial to my SB one of these days. A thought: when you used the live center for turning, it might have helped to cut a very small 60 degree center in the bore. I didn't see one.
Thanks for watching. I agree with what you said... can't remember this part in the video but you are right. At some point I'd like to at least install thrust washers and maybe even a 2 inch dial. Ball screws would be nice but hard to fit.
Really enjoy watching your videos. I have a smallish old hobby lathe and using any parting tool is out of the question, as tool post is not strong enough to take the stress. even with the same tool you use with the extra support under it, Due a lathe upgrade
Good idea, thanks. A while back I made some and had a local machine shop send them out with a batch to be black oxide coated. Then I used a block of wood wrapped with 400 grit and oil to remove the oxide. That worked amazingly well!
Good morning from the UK. , Your method for dial scribing and stamping was very insightful but I did have one thought. Have you considered using gun blue on the markings before the final polish of the dials. This may be a more permanent solution with greater visibility. Great series on the south bend.
In a video of the Starrett factory a lady was finishing 12" scales by painting them with black paint and then wiping off the excess with a rag. That should do the trick on your dials... which were very nicely done.
She may have been using japaning instead of off the shelf paint. Japaning takes forever to dry unless you bake it a little bit, but it's a really tough coating and leaves a beautiful finish.. Cheers from NC/USA
Making dials is easier than you might think. Yeah, the factory dials were ridiculous on most these older lathes. I'm not sure how anyone can use a lathe without readable dials. I guess with a dial indicator and a lot of measuring. If they made a super small DRO that would be the best way to go. I'll bet the technology is there to do it. Imagine a DRO running on a 1/4" rod with a reader slightly bigger that a 1/4" nut.
I've actually tried that and could not get the paint to stick. Somebody suggested gun bluing... I think this would work well. A while back I had a couple dials black oxide coated. I have a friend that worked in a machine shop and he sent them out with bunch of other parts... It worked fantastic! Thanks for watching.
on the chuck with the runout. can you make some rings.. so you can clamp them in the face jaws with the opening at different standard material sizes.. 1/2, 3/4, 1", 2" then check with an indicator the end of the jaws to see how far each one is out.. checking for wear of the scroll .. if they are all the same.. or if you can figure it out.. how about clamping all the jaws in your mill.. aligned by the back.. and milling the ID tips evenly.. see if that will get rid of your runout. if you looked at the lathe chuck manufacturing video.. the jaws are all machined in batches of 3 , 4 or 6 outside the jaw .. so restoring even jaw lengths might help get rid of the runout.. its just a thought..
I've reground several. The best way is to make a ring on the outside of the jaws so that the jaws are under a tightening load and open far enough to get a grind stone inside. I did it with a moto-tool mounted to the tool post but thats not the best way.
Hi there,,,fabulous video and audio coverage.would you share with us what camera equipment you use.and also the time you spend editing,your video,maybe it would make any thumbs downers appreciate your time and expertise.thanks so much for your time.kind regards TW Canada s west coast
Thanks, the Camera is a Canon Vixia HF R700. Overall I'm very please with it. I think is was abut $160, I've had it for about 5 or 6 years. It was rated high at a good price. I bought the high capacity battery and it used to last maybe 4 hours but lately it last about an hour. I've tripped over the cord a few times and broke the battery and the plastic where the charge cord goes in. I'd recommend a couple of batteries, cord are a pain! I doubt this model is available anymore but I highly recommend Canon. My editing software is Moavi. I downloaded at least 6 programs and this was the only one that seemed half way intuitive. I've had the same version for 4 or 5 years, I think it's time to upgrade. I paid $45 but the upgrade is $55. I'll probably do it soon. I spend 3 to 4 hours editing a 3 minute video. Restoration videos are more difficult because I end up with a lot of extra video where i forget to turn the camera off. I'm getting better at editing (still learning) but the biggest pointer I could give anyone is don't show too much. In other words, when you are tapping a hole show 3 seconds and move on.
When in danger or in doubt, call on Winky he'll find an out! I'm enjoying the series on extending the index wheel for the cross slide on the South Bend. I was interested in the winky, auxiliary kickstand support for the cutoff tool. I saw the Armstrong that you made in another video which appears to be a great deal more complicated, but it does provide a spring back action how did you come to decide or was the Armstrong a later invention to the kickstand? Also enjoyed seeing you use the all-metal upgrade stamping tool having seen the one made out of wood in an earlier video. Sooner or later I will work through all of your videos as I find them quite informative, and I learned something from every one.
Sorry about the index not being up to date. I thought it was a good idea but I didn't have a good implementation. It made it hard to update so it never got done. Yes... Cutoff evolution!!! Haha Well, the Kickstand design was my first. It worked will for about 4 or 5 cuts and then tended to wipe out the $35 to $45 tool holder and insert. If I had to guess it was the chuck lifting slightly. 1.5" threaded spindle is not very substantial. Also part of the problem is carbide is not very sharp and I may have had cheap inserts that contributed. The second design worked VERY well. I called it a Direct Mount cutoff tool. It was a T profile HSS blade mounted level in a block of steel directly to the compound. It works without fail. The only negative is that you have to remove the tool post (not quick change). The Armstrong design was an effort to make one that was quick to install. It works very well but chatters at the start of the cut and leaves a little nub in the center. The chatter is for about 2 second until the tool is under load when you use auto feed. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HGAQHjzgs9c.html
I feel like I've gone back to post-doctoral, graduate school - one lesson follows another and before long you have discovered a number of tools each with its own alternative utilization. I recall one of my former students telling me after years in my classroom that you taught us there is never just one correct answer there's always room for improvement and a plan B is much to be desired - . just in case. What originally drew my inquiry was not the Kickstarter stand, iI was the flat plate that bridged between the two v-ways on the bed of the lathe that I saw in another set of videos which had nothing to do with providing a flat surface for the adjustable Kickstarter cut off tool support. I suppose that little double V slide indexed plate was a chip catcher or a thin, vertical protector in case the chuck or a part chunk of material fell from between centers and would have ended up denting a v slide or Landing in the balled up shavings down below. Also enjoyed seeing your little plywood high-speed Steel bit grinding positioner in another video. It reminded me of trying to hold quarter inch by quarter inch mild Steel cut offs into the appropriate cutting angles for high-speed steel that was far too expensive to practice on. I'm sure there's probably a video out there somewhere that showed how to make the new and improved, metal one for further use against the diamond faced grinding wheel you built Later on.
Have you ever used cold gun bluing on your dials then sand them with fine Emery cloth the more oil you get on cold blue the darker it gets good job making your dials I got a sheldon about the same year and size great machine but it's not as pretty as yours I restored it about 20yrs ago it still has good paint just dirty got a new subscriber I'm retired machinist
Welcome to the channel. I tried some kind of metal darkening solution but I can't remember what it was. It didn't seem to work very well. A while back I local machine shop send a dial out and had it black oxide coated. That worked fantastic.
Winky. Black enamel model paint works really well for the grooves. Just put it on with a brush and quickly wipe the surface. It’s dark l, high contrast and doesn’t wear away.
Yes, unless you are working on a metric lathe all lathes have 10 or 20 threads per inch. Lathes with 20 TPI use the same dials but read diameter instead of radius. Most older lathes are 10 TPI. One increment on the dial moved the compound .001 but this is a .002 change in diameter.
Hi Winky. Could you tell me the size and brand of your 100 tooth saw blade, please? All I've been able to turn up locally in a 100 tooth is a 5-1/2" cheap one or a rather expensive 12" carbide tipped type.
just a small point in editing, you have a soft voice and it requires increased volume but then get blasted by machine noise, maybe turn them down to voice db?
Thanks... I need to update my video editing software. I have a hard time adding volume. I can however cut the machine noise. Thanks for the tip!!! The only problem is if I talk over the machine... but I'll avoid doing that.
