Great job mate I feel exactly the same trying to glue up a new belt. Taking particular care to get it right the first time. That's a gorgeous lathe. Looks mint
Brad, my name is Brad. And I'm restoring a South Bend Heavy 10 which led me to your videos. I too have a friend who oversees me being overly cautious and he often ends up being my "dude just do it - you're overthinking it" guy. You remind me of me for some reason.
I have this same belting on my Pittler C3 the glue I used was Gorilla glue, one side of the join has the glue and the other is simply wetted and then clamped as above. The join is absolutely solid and any glue that oozes out turns a creamy colour just like the video above. It's so much easier then messing around with two small bottles.
Nice DIY on the belt Brad, youll like the grab on it....they will sometimes still pull apart at the seam.....depends on the torque asked from it.......i took a hot 1/16 drill bit and melted holes thru mine at the joint and laced thru it with with waxed thread after gluing.......last forever now........
If the rubber length of the ground belt is less than 3/16" long it's easier to trim it off. The rubber adds no strength to the belt and you will never miss the rubber. When you use two types of glue there is always a chance of mixing. If this happens the glue will not stick. I worked in the printing industry and was in charge of belts and training. We have trimmed the rubber for the last 15 years. Now all the belt suppliers are recommending the same.
Brad, I have watched many of your videos with great interest. I have recently noticed that southbend lathes with under drive, fellow operating the belt tensioning lever from the 6 O'clock to the 12 O'clock position. My 13" SB lathe the lever rests engaged at the 9 O'clock position. When deep turning, the belt will slip. It appear to be a leather belt with a coating on the outside. It appears that properly setup, the lever should be at the 6 O'clock position for proper belt tensioning. As in I am guessing there is a cam action over center somewhere around the 8 to 7 O'clock position with the final engaged position being the 6 O'clock position. I suspect my old belt may be too short or improperly adjusted. I will investigate the belt tensioning adjustment. If you would confirm my thoughts, I will order a new belt and make the necessary adjustments and get more transfer of energy from the electric motor to the spindle. As always, you have very good RU-vid videos and thanks for that. Regards, Rolly Sicard Tucson, Arizona
Hi Brad. You have great tutorials, indeed ! 👍 In this specific case, however, I believe that you *glued the belt the reverse side* ... I'm not an expert, like you are, but I refer to Fig.7 of the "Belt Splicing Instructions" prepared by the Engineering Department of SOUTH BEND LATHE WORKS around the 30's (you can easily find it on the web). Sorry for that... 🙁 Thanks again for your great videos, and take care 🤙 😊
Glad I'm not the only one with an aversion to adhesive processes. It's a weird thing to be scared of lol. Don't get me started on stuff involving 3M VHB tape😂
Thanks for sharing this, Brad. I called them and ordered one of their belts. Very friendly, helpful, and knowledgeable about what they are doing. Mine works great (iit's blue, however) so thanks for the tip. Happy turning! Joe
Looks to have been a successful job. Did you also clean the drive pulleys as well? I look forward to seeing how it works under load. Do you expect any belt stretch?
Dan Whiteford yeah, she's all cleaned up. I don't expect any belt stretch whatsoever. It's possible, but I have a lot of travel to take it up if it does.
Charles Ugenti the difference of an entire inch would be worrisome for me. When ordering, give them your exact measurements of the old belt, this way it'll be perfect fit.
Turned out great, Brad. I do not know why, but I'm more of a mechanical fastening type of guy. Psychologically I can not seem to trust glued materials. Something about the process of gluing just makes it unreliable in my opinion (like letting the material cure for 5 minutes before attaching the other half. All glue instructions I saw require that, and I'm wondering -- won't the glue be dry after 5 minutes, seating in the open air? To me it seems like a faulty procedure. Also, a hole through the entire thickness of the belt will hold larger forces than glue that adheres only to the thin, outer surface of the belt.) Anyway, like I said, you did some awesome work on it. BTW, don't stone me for asking this because I'm rather new, but isn't there an easy way to glue and make the belt on a flat, open table, and only then put it in the lathe? (Like disassembling the engine or pulleys.) Working the belt on the lathe, between pulleys, seems uncomfortable. Keep sharing! :)
aryesegal1988 I wish there were an easier way, but since the be,t needs to be laced through the headstock AND the bed itself,it requires it to be glued in place - with the limited room and full stressful situation, lolol. Than,s for watching and your support.
Yeah, it was published for about 5 minutes yesterday when I noticed that I had some addresses exposed in the video. I deleted it and recut the video with a blur over the address. We're all set now. Thanks for the comments and viewing ;)
Pity you didn't use some form of straight edge to line up the 2 ends, we could see they didn't align when you took the clamps off hence the 'hop'. Anyone else doing this in future could make a shallow wooden trough jig for the belt to sit in?
Hi Brad.... im looking for a new belt for my southbend restoration project and was wondering if you still have this lathe and if the belt you used is still holding up alright and if you think it was worth the money to go the route you did? ... thanks for the great video
I have the lathe although I don't "own" it anymore. The owner has me storing it in the basement. The belt is absolutely holding up and totally worth the money!
Thank you Brad... I like the way this belt is glued on so I don't have to take the head apart again but i am the same as you ... glueing sucks... I will look into getting a belt at the same place and be sure to let Al Bino know you recommended it... cheers!!!
How is it holding up? When I first watched this I did not understand the worry. I now have a kit sitting waiting for me to get the guts to install it....haha Here it is a 10K but the only one shot thing really is a concern.
Basement shop? Those are some beefy machines for a basement shop. (I wonder how much a belt for that steam tractor sawmill on Al Bino's business card would run based on the money for that wee tiny thing you bought.)
Good afternoon, I wonder the adhesive brand, where I can buy in Brazil, optimal glue (adhesive) amendment to cold belt, we appreciate if you can help us thank await a brief contact. gustavo
Hi Brad seems expensive but if you cannot stand the "clak" clak clak of the zipper clasp then this maybe the ticket......but i am more interested in the power transfer please do a follow up and if you can remember how the old belt performed compared to the new one would be useful
Lawrence - the belt's underside is rubber, so it grips as well as an automotive serpentine belt. When I tension the belt, it doesn't slip. I've taken a 1/4" (.250) depth of cut in 1018 CDS. My old belt, with the clips, was (what seemed like) a leather-reinforced hybrid, that has some tackiness to it. It made some clicking noise, but the reason I replaced it was because the clips gave out and it broke. I'm most likely going to order another (clip) belt to have as a spare in case this one fails so I'm not left without a machine.
So, why no go with urethane? About 1/3 the price, And you can weld it. I used a $10 heat gun from HF, and home made jig. It has held up real good so far, and it has limited downside. See my video on it. BTW, nice machine.
boa tarde, gostaria de saber a marca do adesivo, onde posso comprar no brasil, otima cola(adesivo) emenda a frio correia de transmissão, se puder nos ajudar agradeçemos obrigado aguardo um breve contato. gustavo
