It is helpful that you are mechanically inclined. I'd bet the part was faulty. It is disappointing when stuff breaks. Good for you digging into it. Thanks for sharing.
The same thing happened to a very experienced tree guy I know with a new 661R & 32" bar. The adjuster broke and ended up bending the chain, and tore the chip deflector. Fortunately, the dealer took care of it. Good luck with your awesome saw.
You're saying the pusher wasn't seated in the bar hole correctly, then when I tightened it, that broke it? That could be, I'm not sure. Thanks for the input
I would say faulty part. It happens but I dont think its a common failure. Looks like you sorted it out in short order. Now go put that saw into some trees. LOL I just got a 500i myself and am loving it.
IMHO it’s a part that breaks fairly often and they aren’t always the highest quality even right from stihl and I’ve seen quite a few break even on brand new saws. To me it’s a wear item the same as a rim sprocket and always keep one or two extra while I’m cutting. Nothing to really worry about
I can see the value in doing that. I may just stock up on some of those parts to I'll be covered if it's the weekend and my dealer isn't open. Good info, THANKS!
Can you be more specific? I'm not saying I'm not at fault, but what exactly would you suggest caused it? I'd like to keep from having it happen again. This isn't my first saw. I have a 660 with more power than the 500i and have run the piss out of it. Have never had the adjuster break on it.
@@timbervisions the bar being incorrectly fitted , overtightened . And there is absolutely no pressure on that when the bar studs are tightened. It could be a weak piece of metal and broke when you fitted the bar and not noticed until you removed the bar . But its not a part that would break when the saw is in use .
@@timbervisions I.e when you fitted the bar you over tensioned the chain and it broke or the bar was not properly against the saw and sitting at an angle then you tightened the studs thus applying more pressure to the pin . I have however seen the actual pin coming away from the tensioner slide
@@timbervisions think about it mechanically. All it does is tension until the bar studs are tightened . Then all the force is applied to the studs when cutting that's it
The most important is that you were not injured. Seems suspect to fail on a new saw. I wonder if parts manufacturing is out sourced to places like China these days?
Just finished a tree job and saw this. I would say its USER ERROR. Ive run pretty much every weekend tree jobs my ms180 261 362 462 661 and my old trusty 036 and ive cut LOTS I mean like ive cut I bet 10 cord of logs this summer. IVE used these same saws for the Last 3 4 years and I just keep them clean and sharp and maintained. ZERO issues. If your brand new 500i that costs 2000 bucks is broken in the first tank I would say its the person using the saw. I Would NEVER Noodle with a saw. Thats is to me abuse. I understand it can be done if you have the power and the chain is razor sharp but to me its HARD on a saw. All im saying is If AND When I buy a 500i just to have and try its really not needed but I will run it for years and years with NO issues I bet. My buddy just bought some new Husk 455 and he said the chains flying off the bar is bent the saw wont stay running bla bla bla... Again I feel CONFIDENT its USER ERROR. I understand that sometimes you have issues but abuse and user error is MORE to blame then the WELL thought out product that is the BEST money can buy....
How is noodling with a saw abuse? It’s the same as burying a bar in a large cut. I’ve got saws with hundreds of hours spent just noodling and have never had issues, a saw is a tool that’s made to be used not treated as if was as fragile as glass. And in my experience unless someone straight gasses a saw 90% of crib deaths in saws are 100% on the manufacturer. I’ve seen chain tensioners snap instantly due to poor materials, bearings seize in the first tank, I’ve torn brand new saws down for porting and found bad bearings or seals, I’ve even taken apart a few saws that came right out of the factory sealed box and found parts installed improperly. In this case I don’t see how he did anything to break the tensioner especially when they are a cheap wear item that will break over time and I’ve seen them break this fast.
Darn Bud, I am SO bummed that this happened to you with your new saw. I wish you wouldn't have spent any money on replacement parts though, because YOU ARE under warranty. This is the first time I've personally seen this happen on a 500, so I don't think that it's a common thing at all. I'm guessing that your issue was just a freak anomaly, and guessing that it won't happen again. I seriously doubt that you did anything wrong either.
It wasn't a big deal. I didn't want to open that can of worms to warranty this. Especially when it the part cost $8. She's been cutting just fine since. Ripping through that wood!
@@timbervisions good, my guess is you had the bar nuts too loose and you were maybe running a skip tooth chain that tends to be rough on the saw and the jarring fatigued that part instead of the bar nuts taking the load. After two tankfuls it is not broken in yet and you won’t be running it at high speed yet. It’s a good saw.
@D-B-Cooper oh I agree, it's a great saw. I was running full comp yellow stihl chain though. Couldn't been the bar nuts though, I agree. She's a ripper, gets better every time I grab it. Thanks for stopping in!