I have been wanting to look inside the niche zero grinder for a long time. This grinder just arrived yesterday, so why not take it apart. portakeeper.com www.espressoou...
Thank you for posting this video- I had to do a teardown to find out why my grinder was rattling. Turns out that the screws adhering the motor to the plastic based has come loose.
Thank you! This helped me fix the rattling motor mount screws (visible at 11:30 in your video) many people are having issues with. 3 of the 4 had fallen out. An easy fix with some Loctite and your video.
Nice vid, PortaKeeper! With my NicheZero, inside that base (that you did not want to open... ;-)), I found a set of TWO SPARE SPRINGS... Nice touch from the makers of the Niche Zero for those who tend to lose the burr springs... What I did not find in my chute, though, is the "clump breaker"... (maybe not needed, because I do not have clumps in my grinds); Greetings from Switzerland!
Daaang! I am going to open it up and show the springs if mine came with. That’s a very good tip! The clump breaker on the niche is extremely minimalistic so not really needed
Thanks for taking the time to post this, it was interesting to see. One thing that really surprised me here is the amount of retention. It's still very low, but that's far more than I've ever seen on mine. I actually no longer clean mine out as often as I used to because there's so little left behind, usually about .1 or .2 exchangeable grinds. I wonder what the cause is? Maybe humidity, or possibly a slight change in materials used at some point after the first batch? That's if there's been no water added when grinding. The plastics inside were chosen for their anti static qualities and adding water is counter productive. Likewise I've no need of a bellows on mine, although if I was getting what's probably half a gram retention, I can see why others would try it.
great break down. This actually makes me want to pick up a used Mazzer Kony now to get these nice burrs but with the mazzer build quality for everything else. Get the car to match the motor. That's a lot of retained grounds hiding in the nooks and crannies (not "zero" retention). Really looks like a tilted Kony with a cheaper motor/chassis.
I tired putting some light roast fermented beans, for espresso fine through the niche - I image this would test the limits. It jammed up completely. also a little smoke waft. Wondering if anyone else had jam up and or have had a new motor sent form niche.
@@portakeeper haha yeah i like a lighter espresso roast. Really though Im wondering if it’s the contact surface(burs), motor, or gear train that’s failing. Also if you thing there’s a similar priced grinder that would perform better, maybe the turin64? Really appreciate your videos
@@MrMadvillan hard for me to say how f the Niche is failing. Maybe struggling with hard beans? The DF64 does well with stock burrs. I like the MP for light roasts. Slower but awesome. The 83 is pretty awesome as well. Both have lots of power
Question: looks like there’s a lot of empty space both in head piece and the aluminum shaft holding the motor. Would a layer of high heat sound deadening be okay to lay down in it and maybe around a portion of the head piece? Just a thought to get it even quieter.
Any news on the replacability of the parts? Especially the motor i idnt find anywhere neither the electronics although that part at least looks easier to fix.
I’m going to give it a break and say “brand new grinder” but I honestly don’t think this is all that revolutionary of a design. It’s almost identical to every other grinder I’ve taken apart. It has aggressive flapper wheel and that’s about it. Very very simple design
I have always seen a stupidity design to use DC motor for home wired AC not portable device without battery or speed control purpose ! is just low cost low reliability against reduce volume and weight !
A part of is is the design not being a square box as well, which, depending on the rest of the kitchen, matters for quite a few people. What more do you want done in metal, what properties would you get from using metal instead of plastic in some parts regarding static, how much would it increase the cost of the machine for those parts, and would it actually matter for its lifelife. The shell itself is nice, and metal, the burrs is what 25-30% of the cost. I would've loved to see the midplate done in metal as well, but I think it would've raised either complexity or cost too much. At least with the current design. I mean, if you want to go for the higher end machine stuff, you always have the Lagom P64 with similar workflow and higher end construction, including RPM control, but then you pay around 2.5-3 times as much as a Niche. And I mean, if you want the really higher end things... Weber EG-1, Monolith Max, Levercraft Ultra.
Thank you so much for allowing us a look inside. I realy realy want one of those but I cant wrap my head around the price of grinders. This is conciderd cheap? I mean sorry but I cant understand this.
