Nintendo Switch Pico Fly Mod Chip 2040 Install 

There was still flux on the ribbon plus my wick has resin core which helped. I have done both my V2/V1 now without issues plus 5 Lites. Plus while sharing videos about how for this stuff was new so yes more flux could have helped but it flowed fine.

Whats the temp for soldering iron required??

@@biswashrai554 300-320 C

@@DNAMobileGaming i'm a micro-soldering expert. and i'm here cz someone come to my shop and send me this video link for reference. and my mate, this guy right here is right, you really need more flux to that pad. well, but just saying, you're not doing soldering for works, so i think it's fine. it still making a good connection, just some advice from some random solder-man. good job

@donatello4774 I really appreciate you being humble with your experience. Males it easier to listen honestly and I'll take this into account when I do mine

Awesome if you're on 18.1.0, then make sure to update everything including fusee/Atmosphere/Hakate I shared an SD Card setup guide but it's for 18.0.1 and everyone gets confused when it doesn't work for 18.1.0.

Yes find it on AliExpress.

thats where you get it tho, check reviews before purchase

It's not that bad if you have experience, but if you're just looking for a one and done then if you can find a shop do that instead.

Check your Soldering on those capacitors make sure they're not bridged.

That means the solder isn't getting a proper connection. Just go back in and recheck the points to the capacitors.

Ha 😆 idk if I could be a surgeon 😷

Sounds like you soldered something wrong re check it again. Can you get back into the normal Switch OS?

@DNAMobileGaming yeah i found a strand of solder went across the top of SP2 and shorted the circuit. An expensive lesson for sure. I shouldn't of tried something new. RIP Switch Lite 2022 - 2024

Awesome glad you got it going, as everyone seems to think I needed more flux for this guide when I think they're all just trolling for kicks. I now do this as a service periodically only local though and it really isn't too bad once you've done a bunch.

I just updated the link sorry, the base isn't that big either it's 10x10 inches. Also the tip that comes with the Soldering Iron will be okay I bought a new set recently that is different but I used the one on mine for a few years before needing a new one.

@@DNAMobileGaming awesome. Thanks. I ordered the correct one. The old link has a 5x3 base.

Did you know if you actually watch the content you'll find out the answer because I mention this within the first minute of the video!

When you get into the Hakate Menu you can use the right joystick of the controllers as a mouse instead of using the Touch! I think they implemented this for cases like yours because I know a lot of gamers that actually just use (me included in the past) the Switch as a standalone console. I used to use my old V1 in this way it was literally a motherboard that I plugged the USB C into a HDMI to USB C adapter and basically used it just to backup my games. I hope that helps answer this.

@DNAMobileGaming yeah but I don't have a screen. I mean the pads on the board are broken/lifted. Hakate doesn't work on HDMI , so I can't see what I do. So my question is, is there a way around. I don't want to go online with that switch what so ever. Is there a file I can edit on my pc to just boot with the mod activated so I can play "backups" =P ?

@@DNAMobileGaming I need payload.bin that boots the switch hacked firmware that I can prepare on my pc or something

That is more than enough you don't need a lot just splat a pea sized amount on the gpu and about half that on the plate after.

450 degrees which is the max temp on my soldering iron.

Great now you need to setup the SD card.

@DNAMobileGaming i dont have the no sc card screen though

The firmware was likely not pre installed on the chip.

@@asquared_ if you're talking about the files inside, it was there

I honestly don't know, however I know the old method used the same file structure but I owned a very old V1 and it was still on an old firmware until it finally crapped out on me so honestly l couldn't tell you.

I put the items in the description that I used if interested :D

I like the flux I have been using which gets squeezed out of a syringe I know it didn't look like it but I had a lot of flux on the board. The reason I did this the way I did is because I'm still sort of a noob at soldering but have now done a dozen consoles without any issues. My kids are the biggest testers of 4 of these switches too and they still work to this day knock on wood. I love the feedback though, this is the easiest Switch to mod.

And use flux!

I used lots of flux not sure why you're saying this?

@@DNAMobileGaming actually you didn't used any while soldering the ribbon to the GPU... the 2 caps. That's why you had such a hard time with the solder going where you wanted it.

@@SteveMoore71 I sure did there was flux all over it still I didn't add anymore because there was a huge amount if you look closely around 26:00 you can see the shine of the flux plus my solder has flux as well. I've now successfully hacked a dozen consoles however without any problems 3 of which my kids use and they still work great.

​@@DNAMobileGaming Absolutely, there was residual. But not enough in the needed locations to assist the solder in flowing where you want it. Look at 24:36 as an example. Above SP1 is what (technically too much) solder looks like when it has good assist from flux. Above SP2 (again has to much) the solder is both 'stringy, and not even clinging to the pad above the S.. lower tiny bit of the pad is exposed still, and again, that 'stringy' solder above the 2. Will this work? Sure, potentially. Im willing to bet that the left-most pad of SP1 isn't even attached. Its just friction that's maintaining the minimal current needed. At 37:11 you can kinda see what appears to be a crack, or line, between the 2 parts. Could just be lighting. At 35:37 there is a distinct split as well, but you re-heated after that. So some problems you are having... 1... dirty work environment. You really need to get all of that old thermal past out of there! Its doing absolutely zero good in transferring heat and making it terribly hard for the solder to properly adhere. Thermal past is almost all silicon based, and even extremely good flux will struggle eating it all. Remove all you can with a spudger or dry swab. Then scrub with a clean toothbrush and 90% Isopropyl. 70%, as you can see in your video, leaves droplets in the poorly cleaned chip 2 ... Wipe away wet alcohol wit ha lint-free tool. You can see all over the place where threads from your cotton swabs are left behind. They contaminate the solder, stick in uncleaned thermal paste (creating absolutely HUGE gaps between the chip and the heatpipe!) Anddo nothing positive for you. 3 ... Set your temp iron temp WAY cooler! Youre temp should be only a little hotter than the melting point of your chosen solder. And the tip you use should be based on how muce of that heat has to be transferred into the part. In this project... a copper dot on a ribbon cable and a tiny SMD. You cald almost use a needle point and succeed; 4 ... Apply new flux to every new connection, and as soon as you see that its burned. But clean away the old before applying new. This rids the area of contaminents. In several places around where you referenced above you can see how burned that flux it that you're mentioning. This is because its contaminated from being used too long, and at WAY to high a heat. Look at the soldering tip at 28:48. Its not tinned and its baked to hell and back. Shortly after you clean it, fail to use flux, and add a blob of solder. That solder is going to jump off as soon as it has a place to go. It should flow on the tip just as smoothly and even as a perfectly soldered join on a $1200 motherboard. And absolutely most of all... Im not trying to be a dick! Just trying to help. Soldering can be a PITA! But it seems that most people do really well after they get over this imaginary hump in the middle of the learning curve. Just trying to help ya get there

If your battery isn't connected then it won't do anything however make sure it's not bridged before connecting the battery and turning on.

If it's showing the No SD Card it means it worked just copy the files for hakate/Atmosphere to the SD card and plug it in.

You can look up your serial number, however the ribbon cable for the v1 won't align with the v2 capacitors they're flipped sideways.

No don't use normal tape use Kapton tape it's heat resistant normal tape will melt and cause issues

And what about electric tape?

@@GanseSindToll-kc2ot no use Kapton tape period electrical tape will also melt at high temps. I gave what you need to use don't skip this or use alternatives unless you want to break your switch.

I highly recommend it so do a lot of others so do what you'd like as any guide is always a suggestion but it won't be my fault if some shorts out or breaks.

@@DNAMobileGaming I did not cut the shielding. You can feed the Chip trough the fan hole and mount it outside of the shielding..

@@oimel81 That's actually a very good idea. It almost looks like it's even intended based on how the flex PCB looks. And the end result likely looks a lot better.

Yeah that's why I got super quiet during certain parts lol. I ruined my first switch lite because I said "I can do this without a microscope" but nope now it's just parts. I guess you can get at least $60 for a screen though 😉.

I'm sure I can do this without a scope I will just squint really hard 😅

@HxCxDxE I say good luck just don't mess up those capacitors or your switch is toast.

If you got steady hands it IS possible to re-solder the two 100nF 0201 caps on the left side. I've just had to do this because I rushed the opening of the metal lid. No WiFi if those two suckers aren't feeling well.

@@stefangun80 Lets be real though, if you are doing this mod you aint going to be taking this switch online so why need wifi?

Are they just being recognized on your computer? If so check the usb c connector I had one board that needed some tampering to get my computer to recognize it because the fpc connection plastic was broken.

@@DNAMobileGaming yes they are recognized, I see the files that it defaults with the I copy over the uf2. But no light at all

Huh?

This is just for safety. If you drop the switch, it will be more stable. Otherwise the small capacitors that got solderd wont be strong enough to hold the whole cables and stuff.

Are you talking about the Ali Express link?

It's not stuck you just haven't setup your SD Card which there's a guide for this too.

No it was alright and working and last night whent to 0% so I charge it and became the no SD card screen ​@@DNAMobileGaming

@@Steve_PH double check that your SD card is seated correctly, check the pin connection for your ribbon cable for the sd card slot not really sure why this would happen but my kids play on all of my hacked switch consoles and always let them die. They never have this issue.

Perfect glad you were able to do so!

Watch the next guide about setting up your SD Card

The emmc chip was most likely manufactured by HyJinx but there are some Samsungs and they are vendor specific it is located under the smaller of the 2 heat shields that had to be pried out at various pin holes . The lite uses BGA solder points located under the chip and therefore require flux, tweezers, and a heat gun to remove . Before going that route, I would like to know more about the mod chip you installed, is it still in the device ? Can you see it ? Is there an LED on it ? Is it blinking ? What color ? Listen closely as soon as you power the device on, is the mod chip beeping ? If so please describe the number of beeps and if they are short and/or long beeps (it's very important to correctly note these as they indicate specifically what connection has failed) Did you enable Auto-RCM in Hekate ? Did you use a mod chip with pre-built flex cables ? Were they for the Lite ? Transistors ? What Ohm and which manufacturer made your emmc chip ?

@matthewshafer9545 so I guess it was kind of vague, but I never added this mod to my switch. It just seemed like someone here would know how to help me with my issue based off of all the knowledge required to do this mod. I've read around a lot and apparently the data isn't exactly retrieveable at all unless you actually hack into it. A lot of it just seems beyond my comprehension at this point

@@bwilson0213 well a short circuit will not draw current of any kind and you have a charging battery . So we can rule that out . And you said black screen not blue so can assume the processors isn't simply failing . So I was thinking what if this is something really dumb like it can't find Payload.bin because it isn't where it should be

This isn't a Switch Lite if you mean an OLED though than no otherwise this works on tbe v1/v2 regardless of being patched or not.

@DNAMobileGaming awesome, yeah I have the red/blue basic switch. I'm so hyped for this. I'm guess I can use my phones zoom feature for I mic other I'll squint reeeeeally hard.

450 degrees is what I have mine cranked too which is the max, use lots of flux (as many keep saying even though I did) and turn on a fan if you're using the solder I shared. It won't kill you now but it's not good for the system long term.

I do have part 2 uploaded I don't know what you mean? The SD Card setup guide is on the channel if that's what you're looking for?

@@DNAMobileGaming Thanks!

Lol nothing says I can't share how to do it or ways to do it. I paid $400 for this risked breaking it to make it better, people have been messing with technology for years and they don't own me 😆 the moment they think they do will be the moment I boycott their company.

Take your time, make sure to use my trick of covering the other capacitors with kapton tape. I use that method all the time now for this. When you get one side soldered nicely take a breather even if it means going outside or getting a drink. It's really not a scarey task when you succeed but if you haven't done anything like this for a while it will be intimidating at first I'll say. I made the mistake of not having a micro scope for my very first Switch Lite. I messed it up all to heck plus I had bad solder without resin inside and didn't use enough heat. 450c is what I set my temp to. I have Discord and wish you luck I'd hate to see it fail as it really isn't that hard to do just time consuming. I can do a switch now in 20 ish minutes. Lite takes about half hour because it has more solder points. I'm still not a PRO but my kids that use these consoles daily which means they've been dropped or traveled with still have no issues knock on wood.

@@DNAMobileGaming Thanks for the advice, mate. Hopefully, I ordered Kapton tape. It will be 2 weeks since I ordered all the necessary stuff, and to be honest, I’ve been watching all the installation videos since then to make sure I succeed. I have to say, your video is, in my opinion, the most pedagogical one. Unfortunately, I don’t have a microscope, but I’ll use my phone streaming to my TV plus I have x3.5 glasses just in case lol

THE NO SD SYMBOL, ITS HERE, ITS HEREEEE !!!!

Congrats, happy it worked for ya

Thanks

I'm not sure if that's a shot at my beginner level soldering skills or if you're being genuine but it's true lol. I have now successfully hacked 7 Lites and a handful of regular Switches using my own techniques and they still (knock on wood) work to this day!

Sweet I think as I don't really know if that is a question or a statement lol.

No problem, I put the Microscope in the description along with many other tools I use a lot :D

Ha this is only for the V1/V2 though I would love to try my hand at an OLED to challenge myself but they're so expensive still to risk breaking it 😜

Dang that really sucks, some companies fix those.

What's not working?

@@DNAMobileGaming tinfoil not installing I keep saying unable to start software

@@shortboss2537 the installer is broken on 18.1.0 not sure why but it only works on 18.0.1 which is what the SD card setup guide I shared was for. You'll just have to open it with the .nro app.

@@DNAMobileGaming okay thanks I'll try 👍🏾

What do you need worked on next? 🤣 Someone else said this too maybe I should change my profession lol

Kapton is preferred because it's easy to take off and heat resistant. Normal tape would melt.

Video is already done just need to upload it 😎

@@DNAMobileGamingthanks bro❤ im installing the chip literally right now

Probably just search it

Yes it does, there's a V1 cable and V2 cable that comes with the kit. I did my V2 last week finally the only difference is the SMB capacitor direction on the GPU.

@@DNAMobileGaming awesome good to hear, may do this with my switch much later down the line. I have Yuzu on my phone that can suffice for now. :)

@wilson16 it really does change things, the best part is using it to rip your games easier. I had the none patched V1 and the jig method sucked. This method you can switch back and forth from the CFW to original if needed easily.

Did you follow the setup guide I shared?

​@@DNAMobileGamingyep I did everything , the chip Is flashed but i just cant acess stock ofw

I can do backup , but cant create an emmumc

@@DNAMobileGaming Do I need to Buy another emmc?

You shouldn't as everything runs off the micro sd card. If you can get into Hakate, restart the process again for this as it works perfectly even on 18.1.0

What was your firmware version of your switch before doing this? People keep getting this one which is 18.0.1 mixed up with 18.1.0 I also found a reddit post about this too. But if you know reddit there wasn't really a straight answer, I personally haven't experienced this myself but what they said is it's a failing emmc. Did you install this yourself? If so double check the connection of the emmc board as well make sure there isn't any pinout problems.

@@DNAMobileGaming I installed 3 Hwfly Picofly Chip RP2040 and 2 of them give me that error, firmware is 18.1.0. The error 2002-3540 comes up randomly on the 1st switch when using original firmware and on the 3rd switch it won’t even boot to original firmware just give me that error after the nintendo switch logo. I don’t think is the emmc board, more likely is the cheap modchip from AliExpress. If you get any info on this please let me know, thank you.

@GloomyPlanet well did you install the latest version of Atmosphere as this isn't for 18.1.0 and from others responses on good ol misinformation Reddit some also stated it's because of Atmosphere and not using the right firmware matching the new firmware.

@@DNAMobileGaming Yes i have atmosphere 1.7.1 and firmware 18.1.0 on both the stock and the emunand.

Maybe it's the chip then I haven't experienced this with any of the chips I own as I switch back and forth to play online with both my Switch Lite and this Switch all the time.

Awesome that is a good thing if you soldered the connections properly.

Inserted my sd card and it doesn’t detect I reseted my switch and it also doesn’t detect the sd card do I need to put it specify to work or it’s broke ?

@Papi4997 well did you turn on the Switch first and see the No SD Card menu?

@@DNAMobileGaming yes and when I inserted my sd card with the file in your other video it won’t read my sd card

@@Papi4997 did it read it before you did the install? Did you check to make sure you seated the SD Card ribbon back into place correctly? Check all the possibilities.

Just copy the files I provided then update them with the latest version of atmosphere by following the written steps on GitHub.

Eh every view counts and watch time 😜

Lol that would be awesome I use the same toothbrush for brushing my teeth so extra flavor for everyone 😆

V1/V2 only there's a separate chip for the OLED and Switch Lite.

If you take your time it really is a nice mod, you can even use your phone camera if it has a decent multi zoom option. My S20 can see these capacitors really well 20x zoom you just need a tripod of some sort.

Sweet I've done only 7 myself and can do the V1/2 in about 20 minutes as well the reason this is slower is because it's filmed for teaching how it can be done.

Did you flash the pico firmware?

@@DNAMobileGaming nope, I was facing issues for the chip to work on my pc. But it finally worked, but I don't know what to do next

@@DNAMobileGaming hello, just to clarify I copied the fw_2.73.uf2(picofly I think from GitHub)to the mod chip and I got a yellow light, does that mean I have successfully flashed it?

@Veryrarebois there's a guide for this

@@DNAMobileGaming do you have any?

Yes there's a video about this

@DNAMobileGaming just found it in the description! Woops, my bad 🤣

@gaetongrasso9866 I actually just added it because I forgot to do that 😆

@DNAMobileGaming lol thank you!

There is a board for the OLED I don't plan to test though unless I can find one cheap. So no this mod is completely different.

If you installed it properly and it's charged then this shouldn't happen. Double check your solder points to the capacitors if they're bad then you may need to clean up the solder work.

@@DNAMobileGaming cheers. thanks for the quick reply! I'll try to redo the solder tomorrow as it's late rn. It's darn hard to see!

@guardianhoot no problem, does the pico board flash blue at all when you press the power button?

@@DNAMobileGaming yes. But it's given me the same error code now that I have redone the soldering. ==*

So it still boots up but gives an error code? Did you flash the board?

Ha archive it too Justin Case however I can't see this being removed there's quite a few guides out there about this stuff 😉

@@DNAMobileGaming yeah im just paranoid. thank you very much for the detailed guide. i can tell you put a lot of work into it!

No problem a phone with a good camera works well for zooming into the board too btw otherwise the microscope really helps a lot. I use it a lot now and even used it to mod my PSP screen recently.

Check the recent videos on the channel 😁

I want my scissors back, you thief!

Lol no!

Amazon is good for this.

I just added links to the description I must've forgot this.

You’re awesome thank you!!

Thanks did you watch all of it 😉

I can't either but I did honestly I've only soldered a ton of large components in the past and wires. This was fun to challenge myself, I've now done 2 main Switch consoles and 5 Lites 😂.

Same.

Pardon? My Soldering job worked out perfectly the Switch still works and get used daily to this day. This was video showing those that are NEW to Soldering what to do but if you feel better about yourself now for bashing me in the comments for no reason at all, then hit that subscribe button and move on with your life 😀

@@DNAMobileGaming Its Just Bad. Just the truth T

Thanks appreciate it 🙏 ☺️ 🙌 👍 sorry you should see how good my Soldering skills are now as I've soldered multiple Switches and some are used by kids that don't take care of things as well as adults and they still work fine.

Dang I bought a 4 pack so I'd have backups but the big thing to remember is not to add too much heat to that cable. Just lightly tap the solder points using flux really helps too and don't play with it too much when soldering to eh capacitors. I took a breather after each capacitor myself I think the scary thing you have to think of is how small the parts are but with a good camera or microscope you can see everything.

@@DNAMobileGaming Very true. Not yet soldered to the main board yet. Still very nervous doing that. I might wait a week yet lol. I messaged a few places around me to ask if they would do it, just the soldering and not heard back so guess it's something I need to do myself.

@@DNAMobileGaming So turns out the screws for the back cover are all shredded on my V1. I'm sure I can get them out some how even if I break the back cover and just replace it. Not sure if I can get new screws though.

Did you like that beginning 😂

There isn't any files in this video to install this is to install the chip. Check my SD card guide for this.

​@@DNAMobileGaming I believe he's asking about the files to flash the pico that you mentioned would be in the description or "somewhere else"

@everettdamian oh shoot I just realized I didn't add those! I'll add them now thank you whoops 🤭

Very well done, part two was recorded yesterday so I could use the family Switch again 😎

I use a microscope for this installation and recommend it a lot actually not sure where you got that assumption. I even have the microscope I used in the description 🤣.

Ha awesome, this is the easiest of the 3 devices the Switch Lite being the second hardest only because of the orange cable but it's actually not that bad.