For all of you wondering what PIP means: PIP stands for “primus inter pares” (Lat.) and means something like “The first among equals”. Had to search for it quite a while bevor I found out 😂.
You are starting to become quite the gentleman engineer, no more hours of hacksawing and filing, no rough or wobbly edges, everything fitting perfectly first time. Great progress and wonderful to see. I am excited for you and am looking forward to seeing this engine run. Kia kaha.
@@2STROKESTUFFING I follow you 💯 and Aumechanic and he was the one that had told me about you and I was already following you on RU-vid videos I follow you 💯 from 🇨🇦 #YSW keep up the great work you are doing and don't stop you give young inventors ideas thank you kindly 🙏 Domenico Monteleone ❤️ bye 👋 from 🇨🇦
According too? As a toolmaker with 2 decades of experience i can 100% debunk that!
3 года назад
I work with machinists, programmers and engineers which all happens to be experts in their field, but no one can agree on how to make things work... My take on this matter is that since flatness is crucial, a shallow counter-bore on each threaded holes would be better to avoid stretched threads to protrude the surface. That doesn't mean I have THE solution.
@@VikingRul3s Theres a bigger chance to round off / mess upp the start of the thread if you chamfer after threading, its just my opinion. And you will end up with an amerikansk vildgäng as we call it here.
I would disagree. Sharp taps do a great job and clean up makes them flush. Chamfering the hole leaves less threading. More threads the better. I tap thousands of parts weekly. And in the end it's really cosmetic to chamfer them unless you need a bolt to be flush in the material.
ohhhh that engine is dam sexy!!! I cant wait to hear this version. I have my RGV250vj22 in osaka but cant get there due to covid, so I have been buying parts, computer with dual ignition maps, wet shot nitrous oxide system, carbon reeds and lots more, it will be an attempt to be the worlds most powerful RGV250 with standard displacement. So please post more vids I am going through two stroke withdrawal
Looking good! It's always a treat to see a new upload from you :) Keep up the good work! Cheers from Alabama✌ P.S. Am I the only one that loves the noises the cnc makes when it's moving around before cutting?
I'm going to keep mentioning this because it seems as though you keep missing my comments. A sliding intake valve like that will not work. The pressures from the incoming air will raise the friction against the side of the slide and not allow it to open. This is from experience.
The reason for the crash was mostly because you did climb cutting! Especialy in aluminium or other soft metals, the cuter can pull itself deeper into the workpeace than your workholding and/or maschine can handle! You need to have quit a sturdy maschine with no backlash to do this! Try to just use conventional cuting for ruffing, use climb cutting for small finish or spring passes to increase surface finish!
Most race teams try and squeeze out every drop of power from there engines. You sir also find the moisture left behind the drop of power..!! Pure passion and intimacy you show.!! Awesome!💪🏼💪🏼🔥🔥🔥👊🏼👍🏻🤣
I don't like piston design, it will fail, you cannot use anything with bolting in enviroment with expanding, dropping temps, you are going to destroy cylinder block countless times because of those pistons! you already made a 3D printed Cylinder. Try contact same guys and do a 3D printed Pistons... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y_W8clK4mb8.html Here its explained why 3D printed piston is better. and don't go after 0.0001 mm just calculate - your run time - material expansion over time, with increase temperatures, for example - your engine is going 15000 rpms, and about in 2 minutes run time it will heat up over 400 C in combustion chamber, piston will expand more than on idle. what kind of 2 stroke oil will you use just not to jam cylinder at that RPMS, ? you are going 100 mph and engine jams.... you are now sliding on your ass on desert sand with jammed engine, blocked wheal.... absolute madman....
Hey, I suspect you might run into some problems with the arduino being to slow to do some of the processing of rpm and stuff. I that case you might want to have a look for a esp32, same price range, same IDE, but a lot more processing power and capabilities.
When you are done destroying pistons and cylinders in one pull, might want to devide that exhaust into two ports and two pipes. Then you can make the piston lighter, and therefore easier to rev..
Looking like you have an engine again, Though it reminds me of a pulse jet which is also a tuned pipe system, it is just that you have a piston in the middle. Really looking forward to the dyno testing again as I am sure you are.
after this it would be fun to see you build the most efficient 2 stroke ever that would meet modern emissions standards but still has the kick and sound of a 2 stroke.
with all the work going into this engine, you're gonna have to retitle it to "Univers' most powerful 2 stroke" hehe, please keep up the great work as im a huge 2 stroke fan aswel!
Fantastic progress! Nothing "unnecessary" about that assembly if you wanted to see it all together. It looks great. Can't wait to hear it rip with the new piston!
at around 3:00 he takes a big block of aluminium just to create a small part, whu is that? im really curiouys? woulndt it be smarter to cut that big block into portions to not waste aluminium???
Like the tapping truing block.....by eye may be quicker, but the assurance is so much nicer. The two stroke tingle......who needs white powder......when you can get a bus at 25K.
i just started on this series.... . did you have the bore CHROME lined? my 74 kawi g5 100cc 2 smoker has a chrome bore..... and chrome is used for rifles and is VERY hard stuff it might work better than stainless steel plating
Random question, have you ever thought about taking a 1970s enduro bike like a Kawasaki KE125 or a Yamaha DT250? Mostly how that type of engine responds to basic mods.
I can't recall if you're using a single-ring piston but either way, now does the ring/rings not hang up on that port? I ported my 2-strokes as a kid (from templates) and this could be a problem w/ even smaller ports. I am currently running about a 1925 Villiers in my monowheel and I have a TZ250G and an MT125R2 but it's been a long time since I did any porting. However, I am porting my Strelinger steam engine for my steam motorcycle build.
so no on carb, i thnk yur gunna miss out;) just loose the electronics, time issue stops me,too much goin g on anyways. EFI tho?, hope you ve retroed before to make it esier, u go tit but TIME. info is thre tho , how about plasma igntion then? run this thru yur head, this spark GROWS under tdc, doesnt shrink, bout piece popcorn deppnds on some thing,in WIP, too much flow ... between work and RD DD as yurself, 2090,lol itll be out
Also look into the MegaSquirt EFI project. It's the first and in my opinion the best open source EFI project. Lots of amazing people on the web forums. They make a smaller ECU for bikes and perfect for logging data. You could attach your dyno to it for one spot logging. Keep up the good work.
Maybe in the far future when you are "done" with single cylinder 2 stroke 50cc, possibly think about parallel twin/inline-4 or v-twin/v-4 2 stroke? Heh heh
Thumbs down for the irritating ads. Thumbs up for showing the taping block that allows for straight taps. I could have used this knowledge in previous work on those terrible 4.6, 5.4 modular Fords that always have broken exhaust studs including diesels.
Have you been using a tapping-block or guide for awhile? I only recently discovered them and it's such a simple idea yet saves an incredible amount of headaches!! Spring is coming also! A great time for that, "two-stroke tingle"!! Hell yes Skol.
Velocity stack: Because i´m working in the moment on my own (4T not 2T). Maybe this document is interesting for you :www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf. Not shure wich shape you are using because you are only showing the outside ;)
Unbelievable. I am following your for quite a while now and I am totally impressed about the passion you are giving to your project. Good luck and success! Keep it going 💪
3:30 Called it from the start. :D Not hatin' or anything. It's an easy mistake to make. I felt a pang of pain in my temple when I saw how you tightened the vise but hoped you re-tightened it off cam. Awesome build though, and can't wait to see the final results. If something like this EVER reaches a final product. There are always tweaking.... ;)
I'm gonna assume with is a 2stroke that has to have a mix of oil/petrol to run?. Have you ever considered the Ferrari style 2stroke design? Which requires 0 burning of oil?. It has a regular style sump.
Hi I am intrigued by what you are doing. Have you managed to get a running prototype as yet? Great work in doing your own development. Do you build 2 STROKE dirt bike engines??
The CNC has stepped your game up by many levels. Every video you put out makes the image of success that much clearer. That printed cylinder with the professional plating definitely made me feel the tingle. Every good blessing to you, always watching for updates.
Oh man do I feel your pain!! It's always that one main final part your always waiting on to get things going or to start it for the first time. Pins and needles and constant thaughts of how can I improve what's already been done and new ideas pop in the head out of nowhere. I blew my 66cc motorized jug learned a lot from it and now I'm just waiting on bearings to get here to start reassemble for a true 80cc. Can't wait to spend some money on a RDM case reed motor but 1500 later and still gotta buy separate stuff. If only I had a shop or garage and a 3D printer. The things I would try to innovate. Glad you got that stuff your really taking two strokes to a whole new level!! Great work man!!!
I love what your doing here mate, I'm slowly drawing up some plans to build a supercharged flathead v-twin, in between some other projects, everything you've done is great, I just have concerns regarded that exhaust port, the cylinder surface area is great, it's the constriction I'm concerned about. I know the theory is to lift velocity to aid scavenging, but it is just to small. With the 2-strokes I've built I match that surface area to the pipe surface area calculated when designing the pipe. Then you can fine tune your pipe through dyno testing. A lower K factor (smoothness of transition) at that transition between cylinder and pipe is most important because of the low pressure differential in a 2 stroke.
How on earth can a piston ring travel over that exhaust port without flexing out into it without a bridge on it? Don't think I've ever seen one of your "worlds most powerfull 2 strokes" ever running. Also the transfer ports look to be VERY low, way much lower than the exhaust.
Maybe it's me, but I see a mayor ' problem. You can't really run that big off an exhaust port without a (bridge) in between. The piston and rings won't survive long, also this brings weird stresses on the piston skirts and cilinder wal, which wil create hotspots thru you're cilinder which is not necessary. Use a butterfly port with or without runners , oval port or even w port.
You come a long way.. TIP. Tuning a volicity stack.. Make 2 plastic tubes that slide over each other then when engine is ticking over get the fuel molecules to dance in the stack. Not spitiing out and not totally dry either. Old engine tuner taught me that many years back. It works a treat.
The cylinder is a brilliant job!! The exhaust port looks really wide, I think that a vertical bridge would have been very beneficial, there might be a chance of the ring popping out into the port window.
I look at that exhaust port and wonder how you are going to prevent the rings from 'falling' into the port causing excessive wear and a high possibility of broken rings. I would have bridged that exhaust port. What have you done with the rings to prevent failure?
If your aim is still to go back to Bonneville I really think that you need a minimum of two full engines, or at least enough that you can swap the engine out of the intake and exhaust systems and a replacement full long engine back on the bike within 45 minutes or so. As you’re well aware, when you push the envelope you’re always running the risk of catastrophic failure, it’s just the nature of the beast.
when I look into engine and simplity of 2 stroke and you had guys who printed whole cylinder block, probably you could ask them to print whole cylinder block and head as single peace with cooling jackets and avoid head gasket problems (if there is any) yes there is some machining problems but it was done years ago
Programs and toolpaths are looking good 👍. Don't worry about the part moving in the vice, that is something you'll eventually learn and more often then not also something you can't help that it happened. Also, we have a few loose lathe chucks at work, that we mount to the mill's bed, just makes it easier to work with round stuff at the end of the day.
That new cylinder looks slicker than a snot on a door knob or a snake on a waxed marble floor! I bet that engine would run even without a piston! Boy, you’re peeing in the tall grass with the big dogs now!!! Perseverance is in your shop, not on Mars!!
Nice looking Engine .. will this power your Mo-Ped ? is it 50 cc's .. 90% Nitro will give you 40% more Horse Power.. Maybe you can try and run it on E-85 too.. that gies at least 15% more power over gasoline..
Hey so do you're self a favor. Pick up some energy releases. It is a metal conditioner. Coat your piston in it and bake at 600 degrees for a few hours. It is a friction modifier . Stuff is amazing look it up
Ludicrous porting indeed. I hope all that porting is able to keep the cylinder cool enough to prevent the piston from seizing. What with the lack of fins and no other obvious cooling measures.
