I think localism is good for keeping unqualified surfers out of more advanced spots where they're just a liability to everyone there. Like Koa said, it also keeps some order in the water in terms of taking turns and not going on someone else's wave. However, I don't like the idea of locals completely owning a spot. Just because you have the opportunity and resources to live in a certain spot doesn't mean you own parts of the ocean. Like I can't afford to live in an expensive beach town but I have just as much love for the waves and surfing as anybody else there. Obviously, I still need to be respectful of the lineup and pecking order, but when it's my turn I'm not gonna be very happy if someone burns me just because they live there and feel entitled. Some adults need to learn how to share.
What Koa said about the Tahitian locals saying they're going to go, that's the thing that I would like to see more of. If you're going to stuff me then just say you're going and I'll stop paddling. There's no reason to create a dangerous situation just because you don't think you should communicate because you're local. Just yell, "going!" And then guys who huck in from out on the shoulder when you're already on the wave so you have to straighten out and end up in a bad position. It's your spot, but be reasonable. The legendary lava reef on the Pacific coast of Panama is the worst for this. Zero fucks given.
I lived on the North Shore during an era of 'change' when the old old school localism was frowned on by many locals themselves. IE just going straight away and beating people up etc. That said I made friends with everyone pretty much. One day though someone stole all of my stuff--and I was upset about it. One of the old school locals saw me and he asked what was wrong so I explained the situation. He proclaimed quite loudly so other people could hear..."We gonna get your stuff back. It's a SMALL island. We don't like to handle it the old way, but if we need to we will". The next day my backpack and all of my belongings were mysteriously found not far from where they were stolen a couple of days prior. In other words, at least in my experience the 'regulating' kind of went both ways. It's not always one sided against the haoles.
Wouldn't happen that way today, Lucky you were there awhile and made friends. I had to divertido from town to surf my days off, they stole stuff out of my car, had to defender myself a coupla times and I witnessed prejidice every day, after 5 years i had enuff, I had a local wife and a hotel unión job, but when I wasnt with her..
That is still one of the rare nice things about Hawaii, the Kanaka are Light Warriors. They are Pono, they have Heart. The wickedness of Babylon has not turned their heart black and full of Fear yet. The Warrior’s Heart still lives in them. Stay Pono Kanaka Maoles 🤙🏻 Hawaii is the last bastion of the Heart of true warriors of the Light, of Aloha. 🌈
@@williamsharpnack5534 I feel you Braddah. I lived Maui and had to fight a lot there. One guy like Maki me with one mini Taurus handgun, so I had to shoot him unfortunately. I did my time though in the Hawaii prison system. It’s ironic that I learned more about Hawaii and local people living with them in prison than I ever did just living free in Hawaii. Aloha Stay Pono 🤙🏻
I think always respect the locals, always let some sets go when you paddle out, stay outve the way, be friendly, apologize if you make a mistake and wait your turn. But some locals can be assholes. They can be entitled, be rude, completely ignore your existence, and act like your presence is a personal offence. I find some of these videos have the dual energy of "hey look how beautiful Hawaii is! Come visit, omg I'm so lucky to live here and call this home, here's where to surf and when you come here check this out etc", and also "wtf there's so many people here, look at all these idiots, damn these people can't surf for shit I'm so much better, why are you all here".... Surfing is interesting like that. No localism in soccer or at skateparks lol
Koa and Makua, you could look into doing some kind of charity event for the local people, whether it is equipment for local kids or getting up some kind of scholarship (they are not all big) for local kids, groceries, ....whatever, doesn't even have to be surf based, and you can call it with the same font. 'THIS IS GIVIN'
I was a lifeguard at Haleiwa Beach Park in the 80s. I graduated HS in town. Koas dad was the worst example of localizm. Him and his Boyz terrorized and anyone not local. I only had problems on kill Haole day in HS. But saw it all the time!
Eddie has been selling meth to locals for years as well as extorting protection $ from front row homeowners. Can’t believe the locals didn’t kick him off the island decades ago.
on my visit from Australia (Noosa) i was standing on Sunset beach watching some nice smallish wave's when a local guy came up and started a chat then took me up to his place (up a laneway out the front ) and pulled out a board for me and said have fun and just drop it off when you're done !crew out were talking nice stuff to me ! Blew me out 😎✌
Late 80's Johnny Boy was the biggest deush-bag. He dropped in on everyone. If he was out, he'd be fighting someone. Loved my time living there with a lot of local friends. But there were a few local boys that just spewed hate. Waited my turn and it usually was a ton of fun. Sad, a few people can really change the whole vibe. Love the islands and the wonderful people I met.
I am an old body board surfer living in Florida for the last 28 years. Florida is all the wave action I need on the body board. My favorite place is Butler Beach on Anastasia Island. I know how to avoid crowds and go on the off days. I have been to Hawaii four times, but I found Florida to be the best place for me. I lived in CA. for 13 years and hated the cold ocean water on the west coast, but Florida has nice, warm ocean water and 825 miles of lovely beaches.
Makuakai has often told tourists off and has been seen on camera not only picking fights with non-locals, but he has also been filmed giving people dirty, DIRTY lickings. Makua's seems to have inherited desire for start beef from his old man, fast Eddie. Localism matters especially when KOOKS surf above their abilities but giving people solid poundings when their intents might not have been sinister, is just damn baaaad for business. Still have to give ALOHA, yeah? Always set the polite example that you want to see followed, by others. ALWAYS. YOU, who are famous and notorious (well-known) REPRESENT your state, and surfing. HOW YOU BEHAVE is how the rest will be judged, good, bad or ... different.
Makua and fast Eddie are like 5'6, I don't know why anyone let either of them give them any shit. They must rely on their home boys to fight their fights.
@@AshleyTodd1he's not very tough. He's a spoiled brat with a fucking shitty attitude and praise on the weak, but will not stand with someone his own size or bigger that knows how to scrap
Your comment about the Groms getting waves made me laugh. Early 2000s my wife and I went out to empty Monster Mash, off season while we were learning to surf stand up after a life of body boarding and windsurfing. Just after paddling out we are joined by John John and his friend. For the next hour those two 11-12 year olds didn't let us get one wave! Damn kids! LOL
I’ve lived in Hawaii for 9 months now and I’ve never had any issues with anyone on any part of the island surfing. Give the locals respect and let them get their waves. It’s really simple, give respect & you will get respect. If you put in time at a spot and you are respectful eventually they will start giving you good waves. I’ve learned a lot from being out in these line ups, it kinda makes me realize how terrible the etiquette is all over California. (Where I’m from)
I lived on Oahu almost 4 years and had to sit a long time to catch a wave. Then when I finally got one and they saw I wasn't gonna waste it I started getting more. Never surfed on the north shore though. East and south side.
Only thing being a local grants you is easy access to a spot. It allows you to get have more sessions, get the good conditions, learn the spot and get more waves with that knowledge. You don't get more rights, you don't get to drop in on people, take waves from people. Respect the rules and the people, local or not.
Just because your daddy grew up on pipe does not entitle you to be asholes or worse! Wave hogs! Kelly Slater home is Cocoa Beach and Destroys the competion in Pipeline! What does that tell you! That the locals are pricks with bad attitudes! An Outsider from Fl dominates tells you all!!
Exactly, and if someone is dropping in on me intentionally like Makua did in this video, I'll slap the dogshit out of them. Respect should be reciprocated, not expected.
Koa spitting facts about surfing, seems like a peaceful chill sport but its actually so selfish and brutal at times. Its hard sometimes when you turn up to a popular spot to know who is a local and who isnt if they arent well known. I just always try be respectful.
Surfing is such a zen sport, it's a pity the people are the most un-zen. I grew up surfing the Sydney northshore but can't handle the anger anymore. That's not the environment I want to spend my free time
My home break is White Plains over on Ewa side and everyone says hi and makes eye contact and what not. Whenever I paddle out on the north shore beginner breaks nobody says hi or smiles or anything. Some of the older local guys say hi sometimes.. the vibe is different on north shore but makes sense I guess y’all have a lot more visitor surfers. Nobody but locals show up at White Plains 🤙
White plains is on Barbers Point, an old Naval Station. It’s all white wash waves for longboarders. I’m native hawaiian, born and raised on oahu and have never heard anybody call white plains their home break. No offense but north shore is nothing like white plains. From the heaviness of the wave to the history and literally just everything lol
I don't mind people enforcing when it's necessary, but sometimes people get out of hand. When it's unnecessary, I usually think it's a bad look on the uncles out there. I got yelled at for taking a wave and one of his friends actually dropped in on ME, lol. He yelled at me for "taking all the waves", when the wave before that, his friend caught. Up to that point it was mostly his friend and I rotating, and we were in a section where the waves coming there, us 2 were the only ones who could catch them anyway. It seemed everything was cool until he started yelling. Even his friend told me it's all good no worries, but some uncles just seem to want to yell at people for the sake of it. In any case, didn't change anything, i kept surfing the way I was. I been surfing that break for 30+ years so I'm not getting run out by some uncle lol. Chances are if he wants his friends to beat me up, it's not happening cause I'm already friends with all those guys.
It's complicated. Surfing steamer lane for 30 yrs. It takes a long time to get respect, but if you have respect and can surf decently and not dangerous, respect will come. When i travel, I always respect the locals and give them right of way esp if it's firing...most of the time, eventually you will get the nod here and there and that's just how it goes. Be smart, learn to find those golden little windows...smile and be stoked...Much aloha to all!
i just got back from my third trip to Hawaii and as usual felt more aloha in the water there than anywhere else i've surfed. sit wide, engage the locals, throw a smile/shaka, and take whatever you can get. "respect" is such an overused word in this sport but yes, it goes a long way. what's more important is to bring this attitude wherever you go/surf.
so if you're a local and stuff someone, and they in turn bail and hit the reef, and get injured, that is somehow in the name of safety? Maybe that person respectfully waited and other locals told them to go, and you weren't there to witness that. I surfed a lot in Santa Cruz, back in the 90's, when the locals were trying hard to be hard, acting like selfish asshats while tweaking and being totally unruly.. I understand the dynamics; but no explanation has ever made 100% sense to me. I also have gotten injured by locals dropping in on me. I've also learned a lot by watching the locals and learning where to sit, and gotten hooted into set waves, made it and earned the respect you mention, and sorta earned local status even though I am not local anywhere except Ocean Beach, SF. At OB there is plenty of room and only strong paddlers get out on big days anyway. my point is that these are all unwritten rules and important to understand; but there are times they don't apply. Awareness is key.
Makua out in the water and in the parking lot of Ehukai is such a pain. Born and raised in Hawaii and this guys will ask for your parking spot and then yell at you to pack up faster. Entitled…
ok so next time I see you or any of your friends or anyone I don't recognize out in california I'll just drop right in on you bc you have to respect me bc i live here
its almost like you pick and chose what to hear and didnt understand a single thing he said, but hey we cant all have comprehension skills huh?good luck chuggin through life with half a brain 🤙
@@DeadSezSohe’s being sarcastic basically saying that they preach respect and aloha, but they won’t show any respect or aloha at all. It was clearly a joke. Relax. No wonder the water is so tense in Hawaii. You sound wound up tighter than an anxious chick who has to fart on a date.
When travelling for surf, I always sit out the back and cheer the locals and compliment them on their last ride. A smile goes a long way. Very quickly I get accepted and can get my share of waves. Those that paddle out and try to get the first set that comes, deserve what they get from locals. If travelling, chill out. Your on holiday.
yep! speaking a few words of the language, and maybe buying them some beer when they are chilling on the beach can also help, in the right circumstance...
Waikiki is the most dangerous. Tourists renting a board and never surfing in their life. I’m glad they are experiencing surfing but it is so dangerous, especially in summer
Went there on our honeymoon and seemed like thousands out in the water by morning. My wife took a lesson with a giant board with a an instructor who said “who’s that?” When I paddled up. I surfed a little because I have been since 17. Besides the huge crowds there were just surf everywhere, though small
He say's "It's super important that we make sure that the local kids can get waves, especially with how many people come through here. It is important and it can get heavy because a lot of people that do come here are aggressive people, like a lot of...I'm not going to just start dropping nationalities..." Excellent piece. I've watched you some lately what impresses me is your ability to deal with difficult and real topics like localism or commercialism (the sticker lesson was essential) in a real person kind of way, less about tribes, or right or wrong, and more about what is happening around, too you, in surfing (localism, gentrification, culture clash, comercialization of something once cool). This is a lot more interesting to me than hearing guys who rip bro down. Thanks for making and sharing.
I visited the North Shore and paddled out more than a few times. They know you, and leave you alone but they will observe your surfing manners. They are strict with rotation, and when the wave is heading to you, you better go for it becuase hesitating will upset the local guys in the lineup the most. Manners and ettiquete will get you places. Know the culture of the lineup, the ability of those in the lineup, and the right board you're using in the lineup.
Makes a lot of sense to have some localism especially for safety and the groms. If people are travelling there are plenty of waves around to share with fellow travellers. Loving the channel especially the POV on the big screen via a VR headset. Cheers from Australia.
I like Koa and his videos and I understand where he's coming from in terms of localism. However, it's still a weird concept to me. Why do people feel like just because they grew up in a certain place, they are superior to those who didn't? Also, in your definition you say "as in any other sport" and this is something I don't agree on. I literally can't think of a single sport besides surfing where the concept of localism even exists. As someone who grew up skiing in Austria, I can understand that it sucks that there are more and more (foreign) people surfing "your" spots. But it's not like there's a law saying they can't or that somebody owns parts of the ocean. Our slopes are flooded with tourists from the UK, the US or the East. Do we like it? No. Do we think we have any more rights or privileges on the slope than they do? No. As the population keeps growing, the number of surfers will keep growing accordingly, meaning there'll be more surfers in the water, unfortunately. It ultimately comes down to being respectful and nice. This is true for surfing as it is true for any other situation in life. It's also true for locals as it is true for anybody else on this planet. Finally, for me it's important that respect goes both ways. I always respect locals, but I find it very weird when they demand respect and don't show any respect themselves. That being said, keep up the good work and keep those sick videos coming!
you dont automatically get respect. you earn it by being respectful, by surfing at a high level, and by being persistent, in other words, paying your dues...
This is a really interesting discussion, and I’m not sure it is as straight forward as Koa presents it, though I get his meaning and know he is humble and respectful. I think old school localism had its issues, violence being top of the list. In most sports you lead by example and surfers with elite abilities can set the tone via their surfing, personal behavior and by talking to people directly. Social media can help as well, with local blogs and podcasts spreading the message. Be humble when surfing new spots, stay away from huge groups initially, watch how others behave, if it’s a mess maybe just sit that session out…. It is absolutely not worth fighting if localism is that kind of toxic.
and by "regulate" you mean the locals get their waves of choice and the scraps for the rest. He "never" looks back is all you need to know. @@quasarkneepro7758
About 23 years ago I was surfing V-Land and a young Makua Rothman was surfing with some of his dad's friends, including the infamous Perry Dane. They were coaching him and making sure he got any wave he wanted.
I'm from Florida....I was on North Shore back in 88 and 89. Localism definitely HEAVY. SEEN Johnny Boy and all the other HEAVYS dishing it out when needed.🤙🤙
Unfortunately, I've never surfed Hawaii. Oddly enough, the worst case of "localism" I ever experienced was at Sebastian Inlet Florida, south of Cocoa Beach. This was mid seventies, so times were different! While you could surf all along the beach, the real screamer was a wedge coming off of the jetty rocks and wall that was strictly a right. This meant EVERYBODY was piled up in the takeoff zone and it was crowded! This is the spot where Slater and Tom Curren, among others, cut their teeth. Hostile crowd, for sure! Second worse I ever experienced was "Trestles" and Huntington Beach Pier in California.
Trestles is the worst. Salt Creek is also pretty bad. Luckily the vibe is completely different a little south of trestles at sano, there's a few guys who will dominate the place but generally everyone is there to have fun and not take things too serious
Tom Curren is from California. Sebastian Inlet in the 1970's was an incredibly amazing wave. Back then every wave at first peak had a local absolutely shredding. They had that place dialed in finely. Remember Jeff Crawford side slipping and floating like a leaf down vertical faces into that perfect hollow barrel. The entire local crew there had the best wave in the entire East coast.
Well said Koa! I couldnt agree more. You said this perfectly. The culture and pecking order is part of the history of surfing. We look out for one another. As a grom I grew up in hawaii and then we moved to florida and I was lucky to have a very protective local spot. We need Localism and respect everywhere. They go hand in hand. Well said man and great example of what we all need in the surf culture. Great word man. Keep it up!
I lived in Hawaii for 23yrs and respect my Aina. Makua used to come visit us at Aulani!! Your braddah Jimbo!! I feel that we have to share our land with everyone. It's not OUR beaches. We are blessed to be raised in paradise and sharing Aloha also means not spreading LOCALISM. Either you share or you dont!! What side of the board do you represent??
Well put you guys had to go through it and most people don't understand what that's like. I grew up in Florida and not even trying to compare to you guys, but there was violence and similar issues. I am in no way advocating for violence in any form for today things are different. People show up drop-in laugh it off. A smile and respect goes a long way thanks for your videos, you the man
I've been surfing since the 60s and I have never cared if anyone drops in or dogs me. The days of solitude surfing are long gone in most places, but I am the only person surfing my home break. I've only seen three others out there. Its rocky, it's rough, closes out fast, and VERY sharky cuz it's near the seal colonies. I've bust ribs, fingers, had a collapsed lung, but I still paddle out. Truth is I prefer to risk the elements rather than drive a few miles to kook city!
Totally agree Koa, I would also would like to add one more thing. That respect should come first from the Surf Schools. They should explain all of this on the first day people start to surf.
Being seventy & watching you young men just talk with clean language will give u many props. Setting that example should grab the young people who really matter in this enjoyment.
It's so funny to hear Koa explain localism, when he's just so naturally mild-mannered & good-natured...he's the last guy on the planet that's ever going to give someone a beating, even though they may very well deserve one...that's not to say however that he's not going to get every single wave he wants out there, & he wants plenty...when I started visiting the Hawaiian Islands to surf from the East Coast many moons ago, I fell in love with the Hawaiian people, & their waves...I eventually married a Native Hawaiian wahine who came from an Ali'i line of very well-known surfers...I one time asked her what she would do if anyone ever messed with me when I was out surfing--she told me she would pickup a rock & smash their head...she said it without hesitation & very mater-of-factly, & I knew she meant it--&, that's why I never told her about any minor altercation I may have had while out surfing--because I didn't care to see someone's skull split wide open when they paddled in...still, after all my years of surfing all the Hawaiian Islands, as a Haole from the Mainland, I can count the number of truly negative interactions I had on one hand-which is a whole hell of alot less than I ever had on the East Coast...it's like one time I was hiking in the High Peaks Region of The Adirondacks, & I had just seen a very large Black Bear...there was a local guy up ahead sitting on top of a very large rock right in the middle of the trail, & he was sharpening the blade of a very large knife...I asked him if there was anything to be worried about regarding the local black bears--he replied, "Nah---just don't f*** with them, & they won't f*** with you." I always remembered that advice when it came time to dealing with Hawaiians.
COMMENTS FOR THIS VIDEO HAVE BEEN TURNED OFF Nah well said Koa, you Nate, JOB, Mason have a great platform to educate a lot of newer people to surfing bout respect and localism. Nice work
@@youthgonewild I know many Brazilians who call themselves Brazzos just like Australians call themselves Aussies. It's not that deep.. stop trying to make an issue out of nothing.
I don't know man. In my local break, nobody's call himself a "local". Except sharks. The vibe is cool, everyone is cheering each other. You say hi to everybody when you enter the water. We wait for our turn to get a wave, there is no priority rules (otherwise ppl keep going more inside and you are behind the section, it's a reef break). With respect, smiles, and cheering, surfing can be way more enjoyable. F*ck the guys trying hard to be hard over a damn water sport.
Everybody who blows in on the West Coast of South Australia calls himself a local so he can tell everyone else to F+++ off! I bet Kelly Slater was told to F off from Cactus.
I have lived and surfed on Oahu for almost 34 years. The localism BS is still a problem, but nowhere near as bad as it was when I first got here. All surfers are entitled to equal access to surf spots and waves. Waves are public resources that should be shared equally. I have heard every version of the arguments that locals need to be respected and its dangerous out there without locals regulating the break. Too often those arguments are just excuses for bullying, thuggery and selfishness. Surfers should behave courteously and with real respect for every other surfer in tbe water. Living closest to the break does not give you priority for waves or the right to burn, endanger or assault other surfers. Neither does superior ability. Two year olds need to learn how to share their toys. Many surfers have never learned those lessons. Live the spirit of Aloha. Don't just talk it. If you are still not sure how to behave in the line-up just ask yourself "What would Duke do?"
I have a better feeling towards localism now. Especially after Nate explained how he sits back of lineup to locals, but if a wave is heavy and no one is going, he will go.
Virginia Beach only has a couple of surf only areas so it gets crazy insane! In one roughly 100 yard area I counted more than 120 people and that included two surf schools that were scary to be near. I’m not a local there but I try to respect others and not block people and let people catch waves. There also can’t be a true lineup because the waves break inconsistently in a couple spots. Giant free for all.
What’s really crazy is that VA Beach has no surf. I know this because I am on the Outer Banks and they are always down here running in packs. I’m not into localism, but they make it hard. They pull up to spots because they see vehicles, run over the dunes, jump on their phones and call all their boys to the spot. Then on top of that, most of them paddle for waves they really don’t want a part of, and end up missing the wave. After a while, we would see their weak attempts at catching the wave and just assume they were going to blow it and take off.
Totally rational I think, I’m from Maine where the waves mostly suck but on good days it gets as locally as anywhere I’ve ever been and it keeps people safe and respectful
Every beach has localism. Surfing is territorial, aggressive and your spot is earned. I had no issues in Hawaii surfing all over Maui, but I came with respect. I introduced myself, showed up everyday and waited my turn. I always got waves, I never dropped in on anyone and deferred to anyone in the lineup. I'll do that in Hawaii, Florida and basically any break that isn't mine. Respect gets you far and will get you far more waves than without.
thats the way it should be! you dont get the best waves just because you think its "your" turn... you get the best waves because you have a great amount of spot, and ocean knowledge... and you have to know your place in the pecking order... its not really like that anymore, but thats how I grew up. it can be a malignant culture, but not always... being able to surf well, and being respectful, friendly and polite to the locals can be the difference between getting your car window smashed in or not... and even when localism IS a full on malignant culture, I still understand it, even if I dont necessarily agree with it...
So if you travel halfway around the world and can’t surf because the locals don’t want you in the water, you are cool with that? I’m a surfer born and raised in Hawaii. You don’t drop in on anyone but the deepest man that can make the wave gets the wave no matter where you come from. Of course you don’t just claim every wave you see.
Thats the funny thing about every "local enforcer". They have no problem going somewhere else to surf but think they get to yell at anyone who paddles out at "their wave". Every time they have some public facing interview it's all about "maintaining respect" when really they yell at you in the parking lot before you even paddle out.
Yeah I saw that video. Pissed me off. It is hard for me to respect Koa after that. However, Nathan Florence is my favorite on the planet. It is a packaged deal.
Think of it like golf. It doesn't matter where you are playing. The basic rules are the same. If a 'local' is out at a spot but acting totally reckless, and even dangerous then kook rules apply.
I’m English and was transferred to Santa Catarina Brazil with my job. Had recently graduated so was young but looked very young for my age. After a few years i thought i was ready for Hawaii and decided to go for the winter to the North Shore. I met a large Hawaiian mother who was working at the hotel who took it upon herself to be my mum. She had 2 sons who surfed and i met them . After a week they invited me to stay at their house and they took me EVERYWHERE! I never had any problems with anyone. I was there to learn and i think they could see that. That Hawaiian mother became godmother to my first son . I would say that if you’re a dick, you’ll know what localism is very rapidly but if not then you’ll barely even notice what it is.
You gotta start off by being honest about where localism originates to have a good conversation. It’s just people wanting more waves for themselves. That’s it. Don’t sugar coat it. But then after you establish that you can have a conversation about if it’s good or not.
The best analogy I’ve heard in regards to localism is that you wouldn’t rock up to a basketball ball court in Harlem NY 7 o’clock at night and expect to waltz straight into the court with the local boys games already in progress and start shooting hoops and taking over. Somehow I don’t think it would end well. Surfing shouldn’t be any different
I feel like you were going to say Brazilians? Could be wrong. That was a cool chat about localism but my question was how do you know who is local? Thanks Koa and Jack!
@@nickp393 if they’re sitting in the lineup like a buoy, not catching anything but yelling louder than anyone, they’re probably a local. Other signs are shitty tattoos and dyed hair. This applies everywhere, not just Hawaii.
If you gotta ask who the locals are, you’re not a local. It’s a very very small community, especially the surfing community. You’re bound to run into one another on a regular basis, even if you don’t know each other personally.
you know because they congregate at the primest spot of the break, all know each other and when you paddle into that place everybody turns and looks at like you like "who the F is this guy".
It's a really small island. And an even smaller community. As one famous comedian once put it, "we lived in a town of 500 people. Let's say we've met".
Double edge sword. No tourist, no money. If it wasn’t for the non locals this wouldn’t even be a channel. I used to buy the safety aspect, but watching people get hurt because of aggressive locals has nullified that point.
Just have to show respect, when I go to the North Shore I show you guys respect and when you come on the west side you show us respect, you know how it is. Never disrespect when you go from Nanakuli to Keawaula Beach, Aloha.
Worst is when you wait your turn , be respectful etc when you visit a spot and some gronk group of locals with missing teeth and neck tattoos try to dominate the take-off area by using a couple guys as blockers etc. That's when you need to just paddle through the pack and get your waves, then run to your car lol . For the most part most of the breaks I've surfed , people have been pretty cool.
So, some guy saves up and then spends maybe his life savings to finally one day get to surf in Hawaii for maybe an hour or two out of his entire life and all the locals who have surfed those breaks thousands of times take all the waves from him? Cool. 🤙I lived in Hawaii in 83' to 86' and surfed Rockies all the time it was my favorite break on the North Shore because it was actually usually less crowed than some of the other breaks back then. I am 6' - 4", 285lbs. now, maybe 230lbs then and would scrap with anyone any place any time (still will at age 57! lol!) so locals were not really a problem for me. They tried to be though even back then.....
Most surfers can’t fight for shit so you don’t even have to be big. There are some water polo guys who will try to drown you but if you can hold them off long enough to tell them to take it in to the beach they’ll leave it alone real quick. Localism is dumb as hell but there are idiots everywhere so you learn to deal with it. Sounds like you knew how to handle it.
@@WILLGRAYY Yea, these people are so lucky, (spoiled!), to be born and live right there but they get greedy and think they own it all! lol! These beaches are public last time I checked, and they have no right to be "policing" them? Those waves are infinite not some endangered resource and have been rolling in for millions of years and will continue for millions of years after we are all long gone, nobody owns them! As a poorer white person, I had to leave Hawaii because it was the most expensive, f'ed up racist place I ever lived.....Not a fan of Hawaiians at all but do still have many fond memories of when I was there as well as the bad ones. I think that is why I even watch this channel and others like it to reconnect to my past somehow, but this post reminded me of the darker side of my past in Hawaii. I guess something never change and this sort of biased is passed on to each new generation to keep that bullshit going! lol!
We used to surf back in the mid-seventies in Southern California we couldn't go North .... And we knew for certain we wouldn't be allowed over at pipeline.... we surfed salt creek, upper and lower, Newport Jettys, Newport Point and the Wedge.... that was good enough for us
It’s worth mentioning that while snapper is really popular, and can get too busy at times, the real problem there is usually locals smoking people who’ve waited for a wave. I get the basic idea of ensuring there’s some order, but no one owns the ocean. You’ve got to let people catch waves if they’re in the position for them.
I think those are fair points on localism. I guess my one comment would be, for guys like you, it’s perfectly normal to go to pretty much any other spot in the world and, although you give respect, you don’t have to stress over people hassling you. You get the best of both worlds, arguably the world’s best breaks which are much less crowded than they would be without the intimidation, yet you can still go to any other spot you want and not think twice about adding to crowds because you’re a fairly high profile guy. I guess what I’m trying to say is that I’d have more respect for what you were saying if you didn’t go on surf trips to other world class spots several times a year.
I like the explanation, something I was definitely wondering about. Never surfed before so learning a little about how things work is always interesting to me. Little dog eat dog out there in the line up.
I’m lucky to live in Japan and surf at a spot that we found and no local or other people outside of my friend group surf. It’s honestly helped me surf faster but at the same time I think it’s going to be detrimental to my development bc I don’t know how a normal surf lineup works :/
Pretty well explained, I have been out of the loop for many years now but being a Florida surfer in the late 70s ,80s and most of the 90s until life couldn’t be avoided. I have seen some crazy shit along the way , fights in the water fights out of the water, just out of control stuff. I never really had a “local” problem because I identified real quick who was who and approached them respectfully and never worried about it. Hell i had “locals” look,out for me on a few instances. My point , if your in a new area A. Don’t be a dick B. Have awareness to the people around you
I completely support priority in the lineup, but it’s impossible to defend localism without sounding like an a-hole for a reason. Respecting priority prevents accidents. Locals dropping in hardly enhances safety.
You did good bro. Every surfer is a local some where they know the game. Locals first. Wait for the respect to go around and the locals will let you catch a few.
Very good surfers...yeah. World class athletecism is a stretch though. These guys would get killed in tests of athletecism against NBA, UFC or NFL players just to name a few.
I love surfing the north shore. I think it is the most respectable place I have surfed. Never had problems no matter how crowded. Just don't be a kook. You get your turn. Talk to people out there. Most everyone is nice and if you don't know what you are doing on a good heavy day, you could get killed. Most people out there are decent. I find that of all the spots, given how awesome it is, it is actually very sane.
Respect ! Respect! Respect!! Locals should always be respected. I’m a uk surfer and if I go anywhere new. Locals always get priority and I show nothing but respect and a great happy attitude! Locals respect you way more that way!! I’d rather miss waves sit in the line up and get the respect of the locals and get a friendship going! Stay stoked!! 🤙 this is livin!!!🤙🌴
Localism is important everywhere. People have been sold a lie in the last decade or two such as “the best surfer is the one having the most fun or nobody owns the ocean” all bullshit. I was vibed heavily as a kid in the seventies and in NJ no less. I’ll tell you I learned my lesson and learned respect. Sucked at the time but made me a better person to surf with.
Great topic on localism Koa. There is a need for order. When you have waves at Malibu and Snapper where there is no localism or order, you get total chaos. You and your brother Crack me up on dropping in on someone. Make showed his brotherly love in a funny way. Classic! Glad you have the new This Is Livin stickers. I'm on it. Aloha, Tommy! 👍 🏄♂️ 🌊
Localism is extremely important. Surfing is one example, but it goes beyond surf as well. As a local of a desirable place that many folks flock to (especially when you have deep family roots in that place & it used to be very local), there is nothing more annoying than people moving there and hijacking the culture. I live it first hand in Charleston, SC. People from damn Ohio, Jersey, etc. move here and have hijacked the Charleston culture (the surf breaks are a zoo as well). You guys out in Hawaii call them Haoles; here, we call them transplants. Respect the locals, respect their culture, and don’t come and try to change it to the shitty place you left.
