When I cut 1/2 coil from a stock spring, it dropped the front end down about 1.5". On a lowering spring, if you had to cut it (which I would not advise), only go maybe 1/4 of a coil and try it out. Gonna be really stiff though. If you are looking for a 3/2-4" drop in front, you have 2" with the lower control arm, try removing only 1/2 coil from a stock spring. After it settles, you would have a ~3.5" drop. I did this on my '95 and worked great with no issues and rode very well.
I heard somewhere a good rule of thumb is to measure the spring height and for every 1" of spring height you cut off it will lower the viehical about two inches with GM springs. ALSO you have to do both sides individually to get an even ride height.
Soon as I seen you cut the spring, I thought that jack isn't coming out. Its a pain but them springs will go in even when they seem to long. If you think about it, you said they were same length as the stock ones. It was a lowered control arm correct? Overall good job and it looks great!!
whats with the extra piece on the outside of the c-notch ? and the extra holes drilled into the shock extensions if you would of put the bolts the opposite way instead of having the nut on the inside face the bolts outward then they wouldnt have touched in the center and you wouldnt have had to add that extra bolt
Nice Job..! Awesome Work.! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 You Should Slap some 50’s on the front with 60’s on the back with custom rims and low profile rubber..! That would of fit perfect with the one inch drop. 🤔 But still a very good job!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 “Peace”✌🏼😊👍🏼💯
Nice video bro! Super clean truck too. Where did you order your western chassis super c-notch from? And how long did it take to come in. Sadly I ordered mine and I got an email confirmation and everything and still have not received any c-notch yet. And they don’t respond to emails and their phone call wait time is ridiculous. No one answers
Man I feel for ya, all of us have jacked something at some point. I did basically the same thing to an S10 back in the 90's. Took me forever to get it fixed right.
I have the same set up. I had a hard time with the springs as well. Very dangerous! I managed to install them without cutting the springs. I been told that the upper ball joints and hardware from DJM are trash, so I bought a set of Moog upper ball joints for “peace of mind” and OEM hardware.
I will check it out. I'm kind of thinking about getting Alden American coilovers for the front so I can have some height adjustment. Seems like they would work with the djm control arms
@@matthew1er I’ll be running that set up soon have the Alden coil overs on the rear and they ride so smooth have the front coil-overs and control arm sitting in the garage waiting to be installed
@@matthew1er yea I have the same control arms 2 in djm arms. The coilovers do not fit directly on the control arm so I had to get an extra piece from Alden. It’s just a 1/4 in plate that sits on the arm for the coilover to sit on. Look up ALD-39 it’ll pop up .
@@anthonysalcido8700 okay I will check it out. That sounds like a good idea anyways having that plate there for added strength because all the force from the shock and spring is going to be on the center of that bottom plate and I was wondering if it could handle all that
Nice truck i have a question if you had not change control alrma would your wheel be hitting it and not been able to turn all the way cause thats where im at now my wheel i cant turn it all the eay cause the inside of wheel hit lowere arm
Just trim the lower control arm lip about 2"s back from the bearing "just a little bit" with a grinder, sand smooth and then paint it...,It'll be fine.
the control arms are not really necessary, i went with them because i heard that with using a drop spindle instead, your turning radius declines so i decided to keep using the stock spindle . for the rear 4 inches is probably the lowest you want to drop it without using c-notch .
@@SirGuidemere91 the cheapest way to drop the front i think would be just cut one coil off the stock spring or drop spring, and add new drop shocks. that can be done for under $100 for a 2 or 3 inch drop. or just buy a drop spindle for a quick 2 inch drop but those are around $250.
You also have a 2"drop spindle plus the lowering control arms and lowering spring.. that's why it drop so much. Total drop was a like 7" plus you cut the springs
With all the parts you put on there having them from different places did you have any problems with the angle of your drive shaft or anything and did you have to add shims because I'm doing the same type of thing I have took it from a different place to see knock from belltech front JDM control arms and they're starting to tell me that I have to freaking put these longer bolts on the springs who's the top of the plate goes and add shims for the angle of the controller for the driveshaft to be correct and I was like why am I just a regular cab just thought I'd ask cuz my situations just like yours so did you have any issues with putting all years together
One other question, did you come up with a salution for the van on the bottom of the c notch. Did you call Western chassis and ask him if that's normal for it to have that Gap. Because I bought them too and I'm about to maybe install them and if that isn't there's no way that dress that got then I don't think I want to install my mites in the back
It's the the quills are still the same length it's the it's a different compression rate for the Springs so yeah they're the same length and everything but the compression leg to compress them down is totally different from your stock ones so when you cut it down it made the compression totally different and then that's why it's almost sitting on the ground you should have cut nothing out there should have been no problem getting a man cuz I got a mini-z but yeah you're going to order new strings Every Spring has a different compression rate that's why they suggest not to cut spring because you altered the compression rate of the of the spring
But looking you did tighten those Castel nuts way to much the castle nuts are supposed to be on to where the deer just barely the whole is just barely above the castle nut little open spot I don't know if I'm explaining it correctly to you but yeah it was really supposed to tighten those down to where it barely just gets past that Carter PIN hole and then you put those carvings in because of you kind of too much going to end up messing up your bushings all new ball joints squeezing the heck out of them
Why don't you explain why your taking something off or loosening something like the gas can ... I stopped watching because I had to resource your video to get answers...
