My bf just topped off all my fluids in my 2009 cobalt. The next day I told him is was running funny and the motor didn’t sound right. He asked if the engine light was on and it wasn’t. So nothing further happened. The following day I started my car and the engine light comes on, in addition to that it was running even worse than the previous day. When I first got the car he checked the oil and said it was empty so he filled it up, my car ran worse, he checked the oil again and realized there was twice as much as what should have been there. He didn’t drain it till I pitched a fit. He told me it would burn its self off and I called bs. So I called him out on it again this time, he pulled the stick out to show me and the oil came up to the point where the cone meets the stick. It doesn’t go up the stick like before but I feel like it is still too much. I’m obviously no mechanic and don’t know much about cars, but he has done questionable things to my vehicles in the past. I drove a truck for 8 yrs and every other month he would have to replace a bearing or break and only 1 at a time even though you could clearly hear others going out, but he would tell me I’m fine to drive it, just don’t go out of town and keep your driving to a minimum. Am I being paranoid? Does this seem legit? I know it’s an old car and I bought it as a rebuilt title, I just wish I knew more about cars and could do the work myself
You forgot how to reset the annoying oil light on the dash; To reset the oil light after changing oil you want to get in the car and turn the key to the on position (without turning the car over) and tap the gas pedal 3 - 5 times. Then use the info button on the steering wheel to browse your display to the oil status to insure your oil life now says 100%. And your done! You may wanna pin this. Also love your videos
THE cleanest, easiest to follow, most descriptive and helpful video for this project I have seen. Ive seen at least six others and none of them mentioned removing the passenger side tire. Removing the tire gives you a lot more room to work and easier and safer access to the drain plug. This is a great step to have. Awesome video, sir. Bravo.
I've owned a 2008 Cobalt since new, NO need to remove a tire to get to the oil drain plug , So unnecessary. Just drive up on two pieces of 2-in x 10-in wood (homemade ramps) if you want to go crazy you can even make the ramp 2 or 3 levels high.
Oil change videos are becoming very popular because more people are starting to do their oil changes themselves because they are tired of wondering if a shop did the oil change correctly, and put in quality oil & filter (if they changed the filter). Those were some easy to follow instructions WITH torque specifications!
Sadly more car makers are designing cars so you cannot do your own service due to specialized computers or expensive/proprietary tools needed to do the job.
BEST Cobalt oil change video out there! Very well done. Consice yet includes the most important details and excellent explanations. Very good video quality and sound.
The example of what these vehicle maintenance tutorials should be. Clean, concise and easy to follow. No 20 minutes wasted in a history or review of the car.
I like your video it's clear concise to the point and doesn't keep me waiting with a bunch of talk about things that don't apply to me thank you so much for your help I'm gonna change my oil for the first time, doing it myself, and I pray that it goes that smooth!
Ugh, 15mm!!! I kept trying 13 and 14. Guess how high my set of sockets goes? Only 14. :/ No wonder I couldn't get that think to budge. Thank you for the clear, concise video without a lot of unnecessary extras.
Like your videos in general and this one too. I have worked on cars since I was a teenager and worked in the industry for 10 years plus. Only issue I have with this video is utilizing a impact ratchet for the job. Always used hand tools anytime I performed one of thousands of oil changes. Don't know if it is wrong or not, just never needed to use impacts for an oil change.
Just FYI, that is not an impact. Just a cordless ratchet - works just like a regular ratchet. An impact driver or wrench actually uses an internal hammer mechanism, which we would not use in an oil change application.
I’ve watched two other videos on this and all I needed to know was where the hell the damn oil filter was it took them 5 minutes each to explain just that much god bless you brother
Dude you rock. I have been paying the shop like $80 for this and since I am in the car not sure if they "do' all of it. And cleaning the windows are "free"
Great Video and right to the point! I also dislike all the life story nonsense before instructional videos. Glad i watched the video first, as I did not have the low profile socket. Thanks
I personally can’t stand this style of oil filters, what the hell was wrong with metal spin on filters?? Not a fan of this plastic fantastic crap. Your ratchet got a bonus lubrication there haha.
BubbaZanetti6666 I agree. they are called Cartridge oil filters and the enviromental people say these are safer since the construction of cartridge oil filters doesn’t include any metal, they can be incinerated instead of being tossed in a landfill. so like Catalytic Converters, these might very well be the future my friend
WDYM they're better. They don't leak oil all over the subframe when you remove them and they don't rust when they're screwed on to the bottom of the engine. I've never had to use a strap wrench to remove a cartridge filter Js....
The oil filter change on a Cobalt is without a doubt the easiest I've ever had on any vehicle I've owned and practically zero mess. Do you think the metal on a spin on filter actually does anything ? it's just a holder for the filter.
Great video! Exactly the information I need none of that extra 15 mins of life story blah blah blah lmao. Good view of exactly what I'm looking for and thanks for the heads up on the socket size and it being a tight spot that will be helpful.
Thank you for sharing this I use to do my oil changes on my Toyota rav4 the plug was in the front and much easier to get to and I saved money and time doing it myself
Helpful vid because I was looking for an metal screw on filter because that’s what I’ve encountered when changing oil on a corolla and a maxima, but it’s different for a cobalt, thanks man
I'm sitting at the dealership waiting for an oil change, and wanted to know exactly what it LOOKED like, and the estimated time, after all these years! Lol
Can I get more details on the filter cap please! My husband try to save some money and tried to replace the filter cap on his own but I guess he is having trouble in putting the cap back on😒 I just don't want him spending to much money in buying lots of tools.
Does anyone know what year was the Chevy cobalt VVT because I have a 2010 and I’m positive it’s VVT but I wanna know if there was any year that the engine wasn’t VVT
Thanks for this informative video. I was able to remove the oil filter cap using a 1 1/4" impact socket I got at Harbor Freight for $3.99 plus tax. SKU # 67849. Had enough clearance to loosen the cap until I could just twist it off by hand.
Great Video! Do you mind showing how to locate & check the transmission fluid on the same vehicle? Mine is a 2006 Chevy LS 2.2. I have been told $245 to drain and change the fluids.
man i always thought i could not do oil change because of two things,first i thought the oil filter was in no mans land and impossible to get to somewhere under the engine ,as i used to see mechanics fiddling there when i did chnages,,so idk wtf they was doin? second having to jack the car and go underneath with the right socket and catch pan etc ,,but once i found out how easy the location of the filter was i was like ohh yeah i can do this ,,changed my own brakes and rotor recently ,before that front and rear bulbs and they were a pain in the ass specially the rear and i want to be able to do more,,,hard part coming up next is changing my coolant ,was thinking about thermostat too but its a pain and i dont think i need it
great video ma man,,tell me how do you clean that funnel from oil if you want to use it say for coolant or other fluids later? what is the best way to degrease and clean it properly?
wonder if you can help diagnose a couple problems i am having with my 2006 pontiac pursuit, perhaps you may have had the same exp? 1) when i put the car in drive(also i think it happens in reverse too)and let it roll on its own sometimes the eng seems to be struggling as i see the the rpm needle go up n down and can feel the eng like its struggling also when i am driving and come to a stop as im breaking and come to full stop i see the engine rpm needle rev up and back down? 2) when i put the car in drive go forward a bit and hit the breaks i hear a clunking noise ,i put it in reverse and apply the breaks and the same thing happens only when i do any of those this noise happens after that the noise is gone ,it sounds like either the break pads or master cylinder or perhaps the transmission i am not sure but i do not see how the break system has to do with the tranny yet it does happen when i shift gears only ,is there some kind of connection? i did change the rotor and pads myself but not sure if this noise was there before that i can remember ,thanks for any help or advise you can give me
after jacking up my car (2006 pontiac pursuit) with the sizor jack that has a notched bit made to fit under that seem or rail under the rocker i am still not able to lift the car high enough to slide in my 3 tone stands so i have no choice but to do like you done and put then under that seem since the stands also have a notch for fitting if needed ,i guess its ok to do that? problem is now i recently had a body work done on both rockers as one got dented in an accident and the other was starting to rust but the new metal now added thickness to my rail or seem so im worried about it fitting the stand or jack without pinching or denting or damaging the weather striping coating which happened plus im not sure how flush the metal is with that seem ,so if its a bit under then its gonna dent or bend,and on top of that for some reason (probabaly rust) he put screws on one side instead of spot welds to hold that trim against the seem and the back end of those screws might be in the way of the jack,i may need to cut them off,,,too bad i just got this work done ,hope it will be ok but i have no choice but to lift my car from those areas as i got no professional jack lift like some ppl seem to have room for
i want to change my coolant and i need to get that red or orange stuff called dex cool,,it comes in both 50/50 and concentrated form,,i prefer to buy the 1 jug of concentrate for my need plus it is two for the price of one after you dilute it yourself, the store guy however told me i can not use distilled water as it will freeze and i should use de-ionized water,,is he pulling my leg or uninfomred?
Such a strange way for oil to be changed on a car, only ever had to do it on a Nissan 240sx and that shit was just the easiest experience, hand removal filter, and oil pan was easily accessible without removing the tire, but I can save myself $89-$100 doing this myself.. Choices.. Looool Thanks for the vid!
1) Too much use of power took, not needed for this task. 2) Coating the O ring (not a gasket) with oil prevents the O ring from grabbing at the mating surfaces and possibly pitching or kinking it which it then won't seal. Otherwise great quick video.
I noticed in your video your using Quaker state motor oil. Is there a reason you prefer that brand? I always found that brand to cause sludge and be very sticky. What do you recommend?
+Phil Norbeck to make a good video showing how and what im doing without ramps you need to remove the tire! Im also a big guy and need the extra space. Thanks for watching!
Yea, no need to remove the oil drain plug neither. You can just siphon it out through the oil fill cap. Save you from having to get all up underneath the car and you don't even need to jack up. Always steps you don't need to do, but you got to ask yourself... is it going to make it faster and easier.
