Everyone has their own opinion. Good to see people taking action to improve the vehicles health. I do like the old school aspect of MMO. Shout out FordBossMe. keep us updated!
Back in 2019, my 2002 Chevy truck had a loud lifter ticking noise.The oil was a quart low, so I added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase. Soon the lifter ticking noise disappeared. I drove the truck about 400 miles and when I changed the oil, it was extremely dirty. Now after an oil change and when it is a quart low on oil, I add a quart of MMO for preventative maintenance. I have also been using Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas in my car, truck, and lawn mower at every fill up since 2016. Everything is running better than ever, and my car now gets at least an extra one to two more miles per gallon.
I've used motor medic to perform engine flush. I used the used motor oil in the motor, poured in motor medic engine flush, topped it off with oil to fill line on the dipstick. I idled the car for 20 minutes. ( motor medic puts on the bottle label to idle no more than 5 minutes and drain ). Then I drain the oil and put oil pan bolt back in. Then i added new oil to the motor, new filter. Ran it at idle for 20 minutes. I repeated the drain step and added in new oil and filter again. Then done. The new oil i ran at idle came out black like my first drain with the motor medic.
Good video! Maintenance is key, and we don't know what works or doesn't until we try. Signature Series is a good choice, and you shouldn't have to do any flush the next time.
A young fellow Marvel mystery. It was not designed to work like that. Use it in between oil changes and yes it does. It does lubricate and remove water
Flushing. You should NOT rev to the red line. Idle the engine for 20 minutes. (With the new, cheap oil). This is fine. Then, Drive it for 2,000 miles. Drain the oil. Amsoil says they don't want additives added. FINALLY, put Mystery Oil in your gas tank. AVOID that other junk product. Mystery Oil is one of the greatest products in the world.
Make sure you don't have an exhaust leak after upstream o2 sensor as it can push the downstream sensor lean and throw the cat codes. You can observe this by graphing downstream sensor voltage on a scan tool. That was the problem with mine. You could also try some cataclean.
Great point! I have been monitoring the sensors and since changing the PCV, disabling the VCM, and doing the flush/sea foam in gas, there has not been any new codes or out of range readings from the O2 sensors. I like to really know that the problem is solved before doing an update, but fingers crossed I’ll be able to provide a positive report soon!
To be honest it would have been cheaper to use Amsoil engine flush and powerfoam. And I believe you would have gotten your desired result 👍. Thanks for sharing 😊 also you shouldn't really add oil additives to something like signature Series. You can degrade the oil and it isnt needed. The base oil and additive package is already much better than a lower quality oil with an additive
Quaker State Synthetic is excellent. It’s underrated and people think it creates sludge from what the conventional oil did 30 years ago perhaps. My Silverado does better on Quaker state synthetic vs Amsoil Signature and Mobil 1.
If your changing your oil on time,,,,,,,As in every 5k for petrol engines,And 4K for diesel,,You should never need to use flushes,,The add package and detergents in a good quality full syn,,Are more than good enough to keep your engine clean,,,Another thing that keeping your oil clean and changing it regularly does ,,And you never hear anyone including these so called experts say is,,It keeps all the gaskets and O rings in your engine from degrading and going brittle ,,Which means no engine oil leaks,,,Changing your manual trans with new good quality oil every 60k will keep gaskets and O rings supple and give you smooth gear changes,,
Great advice! I bought this car with 130,000 miles already on it, so I was curious to see what would happen. I agree that if the motor is being cared for from the beginning, then flushes are not necessary.
Thanks for checking in! I have been filming the followup but have not posted yet because I like to see what the longterm results are before reporting. Here is a sneak peek: after the oil change/flush the car has burned far less oil. After 1600 miles, there were no signs of any reduction in the oil level. It looks very promising that the VCM delete made a significant reduction in oil consumption. On the other hand, the P0430 code returned after 1600 miles. That is the longest it went with the code staying off. I reset it and started trying to clean the cat using fuel additives at much higher concentrations than recommended. The code is still off, and I'll report back again after a few thousand miles! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Use what you want as you want that said MMO is a pretty weak solvent. I've used it in several oil changes over the full oil change and I've never really noticed any difference in cleaning under the valve cover from doing so. It just seems pretty mild even over 3k miles (about 1.5 years of driving for me) I can't imagine it would due to much in 10 mins to be fair. Use it how you please by all means, just after 5+ years of regular use along with name brand oil its not made much difference in the varnish on my motor. I like the product, I just don't consider it a strong cleaner.
@@btechnol No, sorry not really. I think if there was an easy solution motor oil companies would already be using it. I think some additives can clean but I also believe there is a trade off like increased wear. While I can only speculate I have to imagine motor oil companies have a reason for not using strong cleaners. I don't mind a little bit of wear if I can clean the motor some personally, I drive so little, and all my vehicles have been used so it's normal for them to use some oil. I just try to take care of them as best as possible. If I wanted something which would clean I would look at Redlines line of oils which have a lot of Ester, the oil is pretty expensive due to Ester not being cheap but it's a high quality base oil with a history of cleaning.
@@btechnolI watched the oil geek too. I bought the new penzoil platinum made with natural gas base stock. First of its kind. Personally, I think he hyped it up by putting it in his Porsche. I used it in a 95 integra. And honestly. I liked it, but it literally the least amount of detergents added to the oil than most other brands full synthetic formulas. That was facts by oil samples on his own channel. I prefer quaker state full synthetic, because it doesn't burn off fast. Penzoil is owned by the same company that owns quaker state. so they have their own oil base stock they make themselves. All other oil brands buy oil base stock and add detergents and lubricants to it. Was using valvoline but it burns quick, but castrol by far has been disappearing the quickest out of allllll the brands I've used. I bought castrol because they claim they have high temp protection, but every oil change has proved the exact opposite. I literally have to check my oil every other day. Usually can go two weeks and top off because I have worn rings.
