AWESOME... I looked over the material you use. Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy another Amazon Pressure washer for $80. Which leave you with a extra hose and machine.
Haha, probably! I figured that when this washer eventually gives up, I can transplant the parts to a nicer one and enjoy having the parts on there while it lives. Thanks for watching!
If your changing your oil on time,,,,,,,As in every 5k for petrol engines,And 4K for diesel,,You should never need to use flushes,,The add package and detergents in a good quality full syn,,Are more than good enough to keep your engine clean,,,Another thing that keeping your oil clean and changing it regularly does ,,And you never hear anyone including these so called experts say is,,It keeps all the gaskets and O rings in your engine from degrading and going brittle ,,Which means no engine oil leaks,,,Changing your manual trans with new good quality oil every 60k will keep gaskets and O rings supple and give you smooth gear changes,,
Great advice! I bought this car with 130,000 miles already on it, so I was curious to see what would happen. I agree that if the motor is being cared for from the beginning, then flushes are not necessary.
Flushing. You should NOT rev to the red line. Idle the engine for 20 minutes. (With the new, cheap oil). This is fine. Then, Drive it for 2,000 miles. Drain the oil. Amsoil says they don't want additives added. FINALLY, put Mystery Oil in your gas tank. AVOID that other junk product. Mystery Oil is one of the greatest products in the world.
Use what you want as you want that said MMO is a pretty weak solvent. I've used it in several oil changes over the full oil change and I've never really noticed any difference in cleaning under the valve cover from doing so. It just seems pretty mild even over 3k miles (about 1.5 years of driving for me) I can't imagine it would due to much in 10 mins to be fair. Use it how you please by all means, just after 5+ years of regular use along with name brand oil its not made much difference in the varnish on my motor. I like the product, I just don't consider it a strong cleaner.
@@btechnol No, sorry not really. I think if there was an easy solution motor oil companies would already be using it. I think some additives can clean but I also believe there is a trade off like increased wear. While I can only speculate I have to imagine motor oil companies have a reason for not using strong cleaners. I don't mind a little bit of wear if I can clean the motor some personally, I drive so little, and all my vehicles have been used so it's normal for them to use some oil. I just try to take care of them as best as possible. If I wanted something which would clean I would look at Redlines line of oils which have a lot of Ester, the oil is pretty expensive due to Ester not being cheap but it's a high quality base oil with a history of cleaning.
Great video. I wonder if that extra wire goes towards the steering wheel stereo controls possibly? I have a 2006 Rav4 but mine doesn't have stereo controls on the steering.
@@btechnol How did you find the setup/parts you wanted to run. Looking to hit 800-1000hp and have done the research but for the parts Im stuck on "is this better?", "people use this, so I should", at this point it feels like I'm copying someone else's build. Idk my take on it
@dontbestumped there are infinite combinations for a build, so ultimately we just have to choose a starting place and go from there. I met with several successful race teams that run 2JZs and we brainstormed together on what to start with for this build. We probably didn’t get it right and I’m sure they’ll be failures and redoes as we go!
Hi there.. I also have a honda pilot with misfiring problems usually cylinder 1 or 3.. Been thinking of getting the vcm muzzle but I see 2 kinds online.. The one installed in the video and another that doesn't connect to the pos terminal (comes with 4 different ohms from amazon).. Which one to get? And why it connects to the battery and other one doesn't? Anyone know?.. Pls help
I can personally vouch for the one I used in the video. The link to it is in the description. It has been operating flawlessly for months now. It uses the positive terminal because it is actually a small digital system that is actively measuring the engine temp and using a small program to decide what output to send to the ECM to safely keep the VCM turned off. This system also automatically bypasses itself when it senses the engine is overheating. Many of the other kits use a passive resistor that works in many but not all situations, so the VCM may turn back on at times.
@@My.TingTing I have a 2011 Pilot and bought the VCMuzzler about a year ago and its been a game changer. It comes with several resistors and the default works very well. Very few times the Eco light has turned on and that is when it is hot out (90+) and traffic is moving very slowly for extended periods of time like stop go traffic. Not nearly enough to cause the same damage as prior to the Muzzle device. There are 2 others muzzle devices that are solid state which I passed on due to reports of the device failing electronically. YMMV, but I dont think you can wrong with any of them.
Boring E85 for now! Lots of interesting looking fuels out there. Sometimes I waste way too much time reading through the VP offerings. Thanks for the intel on Smeding, love the comparison dynod
Thank you! After I get the engine buttoned up I’m going to focus on the rest of the drive train. The transmission and transfer case are from an R33 GTR
Great vid. I've always wished there was a way to convert modern AWD Nissans like my FX50 to manual, also been daydreaming of swapping a boosted Coyote in there once my VK50 gets tired since there very little aftermarket support for it.
That is definitely an easier solution by far! I’m weird and was obsessed with the idea of something that is bound to the wallet itself. It’s not logical but it was exactly what I was going for. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for doing this - as it represents a preliminary process that anyone who buys one of the mini mills will need to get into. Any other processes that you think might be of similar benefit to newbee mini mill owners would be appreciated. Thanks!
I'm a first responder and have treated patients poisoned by carbon monoxide produced by generators. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE relocate this generator to an open environment, or a shed detached from your residence.
Thank you for the thoughtful post! It made me so happy to read your concern. I may make a follow up video to address the incredibly important point of CO. What can’t be seen in the video is the large open garage door next to the generator. Additionally the exhaust is sealed so well that the CO sniffer can’t detect CO even directly next to the generator after hours of running. There are 2 additional CO detectors next to the generator and CO detectors in every room in the house. These detectors register when I turn the gas stove on but can’t detect any CO from the generator. Redundancy is key. Thank you again for your message and caring!
Thank you for watching! These are the 2 pressure guns I was using: PMT Heavy Duty Engine Cleaning Gun (the silver sprayer with the Dark Fury in it): amzn.to/3W2qlRj WHOLESUN 4000PSI Electric Pressure Washer (tap water with a 15deg nozzle): amzn.to/4eNsHuE
Thanks for checking in! I have been filming the followup but have not posted yet because I like to see what the longterm results are before reporting. Here is a sneak peek: after the oil change/flush the car has burned far less oil. After 1600 miles, there were no signs of any reduction in the oil level. It looks very promising that the VCM delete made a significant reduction in oil consumption. On the other hand, the P0430 code returned after 1600 miles. That is the longest it went with the code staying off. I reset it and started trying to clean the cat using fuel additives at much higher concentrations than recommended. The code is still off, and I'll report back again after a few thousand miles! Thank you for watching and commenting!
This video is part of a troubleshooting series I put together for the P0420 code on my Honda Pilot: ru-vid.com/group/PL8JXm-4yItlyodEkcSlBZv-C6vJ1oYQrG
I advise heavily against cleaning your rims with a brush let alone the same brush as the one you use to clean the tires. Using that same brush on the car's paint will almost certainly scratch the paint. If you intend to detail other people's cars be careful which method of agitation you use on each surface. A wash mitt might be better for the rims and body.
Good tips! I should have made it more clear in the video that my cars are very rough, with dents, large visible screws holding body panels on, heavy scratches, and other signs of their regular off-road use. I was looking for a rapid method for maximum stripping of the gunk that accumulates along with all of this. I strongly agree that this is not a method to be used for cars that one actually cares about the aesthetic value of!
This wasn't a diagnosis. It was shooting in the dark and hoping for a fix my man. When the throttle body replacement 'fixed' it for 7 months i would have questioned the same issue when it returned and not the pedal sensor. But hey..
Good spot! I actually added those when the OEM boot cracked a few years ago. I replaced it with the rubber accordion boots linked by the stainless steel pipe
It’s my favorite wrench, especially when working on engines on the stand. It can be difficult to use in tight spaces. MichaelPro Adjustable T Handle Speed Wrench Set for 1/4 and 3/8 Inch Drive: amzn.to/4biklbm
A young fellow Marvel mystery. It was not designed to work like that. Use it in between oil changes and yes it does. It does lubricate and remove water
How can I tell if it is warping vs material build up? The stock brakes would fade severely when going down large mountains aggressively and smell like burning resin
Quaker State Synthetic is excellent. It’s underrated and people think it creates sludge from what the conventional oil did 30 years ago perhaps. My Silverado does better on Quaker state synthetic vs Amsoil Signature and Mobil 1.
Make sure you don't have an exhaust leak after upstream o2 sensor as it can push the downstream sensor lean and throw the cat codes. You can observe this by graphing downstream sensor voltage on a scan tool. That was the problem with mine. You could also try some cataclean.
Great point! I have been monitoring the sensors and since changing the PCV, disabling the VCM, and doing the flush/sea foam in gas, there has not been any new codes or out of range readings from the O2 sensors. I like to really know that the problem is solved before doing an update, but fingers crossed I’ll be able to provide a positive report soon!
Good video! Maintenance is key, and we don't know what works or doesn't until we try. Signature Series is a good choice, and you shouldn't have to do any flush the next time.
To be honest it would have been cheaper to use Amsoil engine flush and powerfoam. And I believe you would have gotten your desired result 👍. Thanks for sharing 😊 also you shouldn't really add oil additives to something like signature Series. You can degrade the oil and it isnt needed. The base oil and additive package is already much better than a lower quality oil with an additive
