Ford mondeo mk5 2l diesel, in this video i change the rear main oil seal and main bearing end cap seals that have shrunk and are causing a really nasty oil leak.
I watch your vids as I always learn stuff Alan - and I also always think "That Chap needs a 3/8th battery ratchet..." They're a "use one once, never be without one again" tool. Not an impact, just a battery ratchet. Bloomin handy tools - they speed everything up.
Hi Alan very good video 📹 your one of my favorite mechanics. always look forward to your videos I've learnt alot about fords thanks to you .Hope your keeping well cheers from Dublin
Perfect Job Allen. I changed my Gearbox last year and have to turn it of another time because i didnt recognize that the new PTFE-Gaskets have to be assembled different. 5 more hours but now it’s sealed.
lol. yes. do not use oil or grease on them just slide on with the plastic applicator and job done. my boss figured that out the hard way on a ford transit and it leaked like a sieve lol
I have the Focus ST estate and this is the engine it has (I think) Thanks to these great in-depth vids that take so much time to edit and post people like us would be lost without the basic's and knowledge you share! Thanks so much Alan.
Alan, FFS! I feel worse now! All the old rear main seals that took all day to disassemble to get to/ that took all of 5 mins maximum to replace with a big socket or similar, have just made everyone’s life Sooo much more difficult! 🤦🏻♂️ Thanks for you knowledge and skills! PS, I’m not alone in feeling your pain! 🫣
Brilliant channel you have Alan. Been watching avidly for a few months now. I've just bought a 2015 mk5 2.0 diesel and pray this isn't happening on mine as its on 65000
@@alan4x will do Alan, thanks for the reply, thats a relief and I'll keep an eye on the levels. Im smitten with it, had all the mondeos now and wouldnt be without them. God forbid the days when theres none left 😔 looking forward to your next instalments keep up the good work.
Oh my. Can't even fathom how much that repair would cost at workshop 😬 Thanks for showing the issue. I bought my mk4 diesel with quite a lot of road already put into it. If I happen to get MK5 I'll absolutely guaranteed will try to see that this isn't happening. Those pesky car sellers that have washed everything bit too conveniently :)
Not a nice job to do, but it's hard to knock and engine that's delivered that kind mileage. As always with you Alan a lovely bit of investigative work and once all done ready to go in the next one.
Allen Excellent stuff mate shown in great detail not a job I would like to take on so you think this is down to high millage at the high millage that car has done I think I must agree with you has you have greater experience than my self in these matters a great video explained very well Phil in stoke
Morning Alan. From sunny ☀️ Belfast. Hope you had a lovely platinum jubilee break from work 😂 That was a fantastic informative video as always 🤩 You should of got Monica to put the silicone grease on the rubber seals lol 😆 As I’ve always said I’m no mechanic but do a little on my car but just love watching how you donut Alan 😆 Have a good week until the next exciting video on a mondingo 👍🏻
@@alan4x I think I've asked you this before are you having difficulty getting mark 5 DMF's as I can't get one for our 15 plate estate for love nor money, I've had to fit a second hand one which really rubs me up the wrong way and the new one has been on back order from Luk since November. It's sounding okay so far but hopefully should do us until the new one arrives. The steering is creaking now so will have to investigate that one.
Excellent video Alan I really enjoyed watching it but couldn’t help noticing that it seems the sump pan of the engine has probably been removed before ? as the use of universal black RTV sealant is not usually found on the Machine sealing faces of the sump or the engine block. The correct sealant for this sealing surface is actually a special expensive sealant as you know from the price of it from Ford from previous videos! i’m not teaching you to suck eggs mate, but the only gasket sealant I would use on the sump is Elring dirko which is available from GSF or euros and only about £11 it’s a white grey colour and is semipermanent hard with excellent elasticity properties and stretch / gap filling properties , If this was used that rubber gasket would not have been able to shrink causing the leak , I would not use that black stuff as all it does is squishes out when you tighten up the sump bolts hence no samples of it on the mating surfaces, Give it a try mate, I won’t use anything else these days it’s really good stuff it has even sealed distorted coolant flanges for me in the past when I was stuck for parts on the weekend !!!
thanks for your comment salim, interesting, i will give that sealant a try, as for that engine, it has never been apart but the sealant which seals that sandwich plate just above the sump would have been grey in colour from the factory,,just its black now with oil over it lol, have a good one
Very good video as usual Alan. I have a Focus 1.8TDCi which I have just completely overhauled (new bearings, pistons, valve stem seals etc) after 396,000 miles. Now I have an oil leak (black oil not gearbox oil) from the notch at the bottom of the bell housing. Brand new Elring crankshaft oil seals were fitted at both ends of the crankshaft and the screws/bolts that secure the seal to the block at the flywheel end were torqued up as per the manual. The manufacturers' plastic sleeve was used to slide the seal over the crankshaft flange with no apparent damage or distortion. Any ideas? The 1.8TDCi doesn't have this sliding block with sealing strip under the bearing like the one in this video, so it's obviously not that.
Hi Alan, great video as usual. do you think this problem happen at 122,000? Also, approx how much would it cost to have the repair done? One more thing, when can you do my car? I think I have this problem.
On the spanners whenever I get chance been doing it since I was teenager not my full time job but love it I don’t put much on here but think ur vids are bang on x
Hi Alan. I Love your videos. I think I have this problem with my 2016 Mondeo. 😢18500 k miles. Should I ask my local garage to fix it or is it cheaper to buy a new engine with lower mileage?
Hi Alan, how much would i be looking at on a repair if my Ford cooker had the same problem ? , we in hundreds or thousands?..looks thousands lol . Great vid thx for scare .😊
welcome back alan,, bloody shit job. my mk2 focus 2.0 cdti is at 230k miles and has just as many oil leaks lol.... this job gos right to the bottom of the list lol
Its not a job to tackle unless you 1) know what you are doing 2) have the facilities. You made what is obviously a stinker of a job look comparatively easy I have to say. Rust aside, I was once an avid Peugeot fan.(its a Peugeot Diesel engine in a Ford Mondeo for those that don't know) until the 405, then I went right off them and never returned.
Hello Allan, this is a wonderful Job. I love how you explain. My ford mondeo 2009 petrol leaks oil terribly, the cylinder head cover where coils enter from is full of oil, even after wiping it out. The oil is full on top and it drips Down around the engine. Would you advise what needs to be changed or replaced. Can oil leak through the plug holes?
yes you need to remove the rocker cover, probably a plastic black one, you will probably find the rubber gaskets which push into the rocker cover have gone brittle and flattened, just fit new gaskets
Hi Alan , question, watching your video i recently changed that rear main seal on my 2010 kuga as i was changing the clutch and duel mass but it has started to leak from there i think i made the mistake of when fitting the seal that bronze inner part is facing out towards the wheel when in your clip its facing towards the engine is that where iv gone wrong , many thanks andy
Hey mate I have a 08 xr5 mondeo has internal pressure rising of engine told it has blown crankseal and rear main seal ..have you ever come across this problem and will a pcvdelete and baffled catch can fix the pressurising internal issue
Hello from australia alan, sadly i have developed a similar oil leak. So i think my brother and i are going to get a 2nd engine to put in. What performance mods would you think suit these engines if you were to go down that road?
Good video as normal Alan. On another subject have you ever come across a whirring noise from the cam sprocket after changing the cambelt on a mk 4 mondeo 2.0 tdci ? As mine is doing it and no one can tell me what the issue is.
@@alan4x Umm! That's what I was thinking,but how do you over tighten it as it's the design of the tensioner to prevent that? What do you suggest I do as I have slackened the tension off whereby the tensioner pointer is at the 4 o'clock position instead of the usual 5 o'clock but it still makes the noise.
hi marinus, thanks for the comment, those crank seals are made of a strange material, not like normal seals and i believe you don't put any grease or oil on them
When I used to fit that type of seal, they specified that it should be fitted dry. Thankfully, I'm retired now and don't have to deal with this s*** any more.
I wouldn't be complaining with any leak if I owned a car which had done 350k incredible mileage in a short time. My 68plate mondeo has only just ticked over 40k and that's my daily from new.
you know alan i have a mark 3 mondeo changed rear seal when changed clutch and just front gear box im leaking oil like between the box and block at the front , would this be same sort of problem as your explaining here its 1.8 petrol ? thankyou great video as always
The moral of this vlog Alan is not really what a pig of a job it is but the faith you must have in that engine type to repair it at that mileage and stick it back in another cab.
@alan howatt. Hi, I've just changed the rear crank seal on my parents mk 4 2.0 tdci, has 150k on the clock, original was leaking, so I fitted this seal, with the plastic applicator, reassembled and all seemed fine but next day, oil leak is back 🙄🤦🏻♂️. After some investigation on a Ford forum, a ford tech posted a reply, saying that the surface of the crank has to be spotless, with zero oil residue because the way the ptfe seal seals, is my inserting the seal, leaving it in position, without moving the crank at all, for 4 hours, then rebuilding and when the engine is started, a thin coating of the seal, is transfered to the crankshaft surface and this makes the seal, between crank and seal. Have you heard of this before? Because at the end of this video, you didn't mention any special procedure, for seal insertion 🤷🏻♂️. I have another genuine seal ordered from Ford and will have to strip out again, which I don't mind, I just want to know, that I'm doing the job right. Thanks. Dave. P.s you're right, it's a crap job, to have to do those vertical seals, what a terrible design error.
i don't want to give you nightmares but watch this video on the mk5...the mk4 is the same ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NExYMYL2Zjk.html
Hi there Alan, I'm just wondering out of curiosity what kind of miles these taxis do before they are retired or as some would say have been a taxi too long?.. 🤔
What an absolute ball ache of of a job. Great content as usual Alan. Just curious, but have you bought yourself another vehicle to replace that rotten old shed of a van of yours yet?
Hello Alan my son is obsessed with Steve's taxi cars, everyone he sees he yells taxi and waves to the driver. We recently found your channel and I was wondering if you could do a video of just the cars with them driving around
Testament to oil changes with that bearing shell after 350k miles, not an easy job, but can't ask much more from a rubber o ring with all the heat cycles. Peugeot engines are not as bad as people make out. This 2.0, is derived from the original 1.9 xud engine, which is recognised as one of the best ever made.
@@urbanjentry222 the question is, do you really need to remove the flywheel to remove that end cap? once the pan is out...the crankshaft seal should stay in the same place while the cap is removed and installed back in.
hi, i would say approx 2 hours to remove it and 2 hours to refit it but depending how much you have to swap from one engine to the other can take longer
Ive got a mk5 with 180km on the clock. Its not dripping oil but oil is starting to seep out of the holes in the bottom on the bell housing. Its a pain in the but because my clutch is only 50k old n been told i cant reuse it and they arent available in new zealand 😔
you can reuse a clutch on a mk5 ..unbolt the six bolts evenly ...refit when ready and bolt back rip evenly...whoever told you you can't reuse the clutch was wrong
Hi Alan. Hope you're well. Wondered if you could lend some wisdom on an issue with my Mk4 Mondeo. The right indicator is on the blink and only works some of the time. Got a new stalk on order but wondered if there is anything else I need to be looking at?
If it's exactly three blinks, then I'd just assume bad contact in the switch itself. It has that handy "tap once to get three blinks" feature. With bad contact I'd almost certainly say it's the problem.
Hi Alan. I recently bought a MK4 2.0 tdci titanium 2008 with 108,000 miles on board .The car was not maintained by the previous owners. I would like to know at how many miles should I change the timing chain?
Good experianced call mate engine swap saves what could easily be a bloody nightmare...Had a 3.0 omega dripping from box join after the sump had been changed and flywheel pulled turned ou to be a plug in the oil pump weeping running down the side of the pump practically unseen along the block./sump line eventually coming out the gearbox/block join bastid...
Was that the original main seal? I'm about to have the clutch changed on my 161,000 Vectra 1.8. I was tempted to change the main seal, but as it's dry I'm going to let 'sleeping dogs lie'.
