@@AlexIngraham1 that’s besides the point. If it wasn’t over tightened or cross threaded this wouldn’t have happened. I’m not saying to use a torque wrench even though there are specks for it but you should know how to snug a bolt.
The issue isn’t the new threads on the oil pan or the fact you didn’t replace the whole part it is the fact that you could have done it the right way and dropped the oil pan instead of introducing lord know how much metal fragments into the engine. Wrong wrong wrong
Warning to people out there never take your vehicle to a Mr. lube or oil changers they’re not trained licensed technicians. Just regular people and when they fuck your shit up, they put it back together and don’t tell you about it later down the road you’re spending a shit load of money to get your vehicle repaired because something that they did and didn’t tell you.
What about the metal in the pan. Are you flushing it out at least twice and checking the flushed oil for metal and verifying there's no oil in said oil before putting the new oil in and sending the customer on their way? Or just drop the pan and tap it or replace. Either one I'd probably better than hoping you didn't get metal in the pan. Just saying in long form
@@nchjdl Depends on what vehicle, because that oil pump the metal shavings are going to eat if any go through it is before the oil filter . That's also not accounting for if the oil filter is bypassing. An oil filter may save you, but its not something you want to depend on saving you. So its best to do what's needed to not having any shavings in there.
That’s exactly what happened to my Tahoe. They put in 22 built without telling me; now the other crew won’t change the oil because the screw is completely screwed! 😠😤
This Lisle set has saved me so many times and I charge the customer $75.00 instead of a new pan. Got to love Take5 and Walmart for screwing pans up. I get at least 5a week from them.
Thats the only comment I was waiting to read. Listening to these other guys saying "you shouldn't do this, you're getting metal shavings in your engine" has been making me bust a gut. I've been doing this longer than most of them have been alive. And I have yet to see one come back with engine failure because of the shavings causing damage if done properly. Plenty of grease on the tap, small tube necked down on shop vac to clean out residual shavings, flush with one quart of oil or atf of your choice, and plug and fill. Done. Now go punch out, go home and have a cold one.
@@spencerkrake11 that payed for an engine full of metal fragments a professional would have dropped the oil pan before re tapping the drain plug hole this is wrong wrong wrong please keep metal fragments out of your engine
@@izzyskinnychin1462 just dump some oil in the filler while the plug is out lol, taking shit apart and possibly damaging more shit or uncovering other possible issues when not needed doesnt make you a professional
No need to overtighten that drain plug, I have done hundreds of oil changes never pulled threads installing a drain plug, But I'm also the only one who ever touched it 😁 .
The *ONLY* thing I look at before buying a used car is the drain plug. If it's got that jiffy lube paint job on the plug, it's pretty obvious the owner had no respect for it and the fact that it still runs means that it already had the engine replaced, with a worn out junkyard motor, or it will need to be replaced.
Went to a oil change garage in Port Saint Lucie FL . l asked how much for oil and filter full synthetic? Young man Said $89.00 ok , young man said pull in here . Then gave me a bill for $128.00 I’m talking to the young man about what the quote was and the owner stepped up to my window said I was being rude , so I just asked him how long has he been misrepresenting his oil changes 20 years I called him a asshole and told the young man I didn’t blame him but I’d tell the owner to stick his job up his back side. Never cheated anyone like that in my life !
I would guess your truck takes more oil then their menu price applies too. It can be very tough to give accurate quotes on these modern cars. Hopefully it was justifiable.
@@AlexIngraham1 ,let’s look at this from the point of view that maybe I’m a 85 yr old retired fixed income widow lady Now she pulls up and asked while setting in her vehicle that she’s getting the oil and filter changed on and the quote is almost $ 40.00 about the quote, Is this fair . ? And I was setting in my vehicle that I inquired about. Sorry there just no way this is the Right way to give a bid .
That looks like jiffy lube markings on the filter. Upper bay and lower bay techs initials store #913 with the date and the signature of whoever inspected the filter. The other number might be the filters number cuz after covid the supply chain was broken so other filters gad to be used but techs know them as the regular number so it might be that.
That was 100% a valentine filter, the reason you write the date, your initials, and circle the filter number. So when a customer claims we didn't change his oil filter, we watch the cameras and see the filter being shown to the camera labeled, then call bullshit and send the guy on his way.
All the shavings in the engine now! Smh. You'll never get them out even buy flushing it out. You gotta take that pan off and do it so you can clean it out. God I would be pissed! Especially when the engine takes a shit... 🤨🤬
Do you use the plugs the kit came with to fix the car? Or use it to match up the drain plug size? I wouldn’t want to spend $150 on the kit to only get 5 plugs to use
My mechanic was doing an oil change and he cracked my oil pan. He won’t admit to it but he’s the only one that’s ever done oil changes to it since I bought the car. He claims he has no idea how this happened. Can anyone please help me?
More concerned about using a battery ratchet on the tap if you flush some oil used or new down it should get out most of the filings then just use a drain plug that was a magnet you’re fine for a cheap car not a nice one tho
The filter will catch the shavings and prior to installing new plug pour a fresh quart through to wash out 90% of the shavings if any most cases the drill n taps, extract the shavings as they process the metal anyway
@Robert G me personally would pull the pan to do the job. I wouldn't want any of the shavings having a possibility of running through the system having to be caught by the filter. I wouldn't want to cause any damage to the engine weather it's mine or a customers. But to each there own brother. I don't disagree with you but in my stall that pan is coming off.
You should have put thick grease on your boring tool? That would have stuck all of those metal shavings to your, tool. Next time maybe you will know how to clean your mess up as you, go? Prolly not? Your reply will be more desirable as a response vs. A, REACTION? No disrespect intended. My "suggestion" works flawlessly. ✌️❤️
Not in a million years would I let someone do some work to put metal shavings in my block I would have gotten the new pan talk bout shortening the life span of that engine
Bruh lol you could of put a longer bolt without over tightening it this time around , unless customer can afford a new oil pan gasket go ahead and get it done 🙏
He packed that Flute with grease once it started boaring deeper. Then, pack the tap with grease as well. Finally, using a pick to drag anything that may not have stuck to the grease. Very minimal amount if any goes in the pan. Next alluminum pan I replace, I plan to make a demonstration of the process on the bench with the old one to test this theory more accurately. This is a regular repair but I don't seem to need engines for my regular customers.
Bro it’s free labour time make the customer drop the pan and do the job right why get shavings in the pan if you can make more to do it clean even if they never go up into the engine….
This is my friends daughter's car. Nothing I wouldn't do if it was my daughter. Previous owners drug it around behind their RV, Odometer shows 180k. It's less than "mint". So $1000 investment for that repair in a $2000 car doesn't seem justifiable.
@@AlexIngraham1 yeah PLASTIC OIL PAN! BMW uses them too. And drain plug. Aluminum pans don't weigh that much for the money they charge for cars the sure don't want them to last.
The video is old and I see it pass my shop every day. I feel I need to show you the process step by step and maybe you'll understand. The college kid didn't have the $960 to invest in a $2500 car. $75 potentially saved the engine from starving for oil.
Complete hack job.. As a former tech it’s important to keep something in mind. If I wouldn’t do it to my car, I shouldn’t do it to a customers car. Spend 20min and remove the drain pan… All these people claiming metal shavings will stay in the pan have no clue what they’re talking about. There’s enough turbulence in the oil pan to easily float those up into moving parts. But what do I know? I’ve only been rebuilding engines my whole life. 😂 ohh just dump new oil in it to hope and pray it will flush the shavings. Garbage advice!
This guy must have been a mechanic back in the 50's cause there isn't any 20 minute oil pans around anymore. Not saying that a proper fix wouldn't have been to pull the pan to repair drain hole but I have done many "on car" drain plug hole" repairs and no come backs from them to date. And I've been doing it for about 35yrs. Just grease shit out of the flute and neck down a small hose on a shop vac to clean out drain hole of shavings, flush, plug and fill. (With filter). Done!
